Ready for Dessert (6 page)

Top the ganache layer with a second meringue rectangle and spread evenly with the vanilla cream. Top with a third meringue rectangle and spread evenly with the praline cream. Top with the last meringue rectangle. Wrap the
marjolaine
in plastic wrap and refrigerate it overnight.

To finish the cake, remove the
marjolaine
and the reserved ganache from the refrigerator. Trim the rough edges of the
marjolaine
with the serrated knife. Gently warm the ganache over a small pan of simmering water until it’s spreadable, then spread it evenly over the top and sides of the cake.

Using the serrated knife, slice the
marjolaine
crosswise into slabs, dipping the knife blade in hot water and wiping it clean after each cut. Serve at room temperature.

SERVING:
Marjolaine
is flavorful on its own, though you might want to offer some lightly sweetened
whipped cream
alongside.

STORAGE:
The assembled unfrosted cake can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Inspiration can strike at the strangest times and in the most unlikely places. I was in the men’s room at Racines, a restaurant in Paris. While I was momentarily preoccupied with other things, my mind wandered and I scanned the wall facing me, which was plastered with poems and drawings from local artists. Much to my surprise, in the midst of it all was a recipe for chocolate cake.

When I returned to my table, I noticed a chocolate cake with the same name on the menu, so I ordered it. It was so delicious that I excused myself again, this time taking a pad of paper and pen with me.

At the restaurant, the cake is baked with a handful of cocoa nibs strewn over the top. Cocoa nibs are unsweetened roasted bits of cocoa beans; they’re pretty widely available nowadays. Their slightly bitter chocolate crunch makes a big difference in the flavor and texture of the cake, but you can leave them off if you can’t find them.

Cocoa powder, for preparing the pan

10 ounces (280 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

½ cup (4 ounces/115 g) salted butter, cut into pieces

1 tablespoon freshly brewed espresso

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

6 large eggs, separated, at room temperature

¼ cup (50 g) plus 2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar

2 tablespoons (20 g) cocoa nibs (optional)

Powdered sugar, for dusting the cake (optional)

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan, dust it with a bit of cocoa powder, and tap out any excess.

In a large heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate, butter, and espresso. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the mixture is melted and smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and stir in the vanilla.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whisk together the egg yolks and the ¼ cup (50 g) granulated sugar on medium-high speed until the mixture is light and creamy, about 1 minute.

In a clean, dry bowl and with a clean whip attachment, whisk the egg whites on low speed until they begin to hold their shape. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons (30 g) granulated sugar and whisk on high speed until the whites hold soft peaks.

Fold the beaten egg yolks into the melted chocolate mixture, then fold in half of the whipped egg whites. Fold in the remaining whites, mixing just until there are no visible streaks of egg whites. Don’t overfold.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, sprinkle with cocoa nibs, if using, and bake until the cake feels as though it’s just barely set in the center, about 25 minutes. It shouldn’t feel too firm. Let cool completely.

Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the pan and dust the cake with powdered sugar, if using.

SERVING:
The suggested accompaniment at Racines was whipped cream scented with orange flower water. But the cake also goes well with a scoop of ice cream and a dousing of
Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce
.

STORAGE:
The cake is best served the day it’s made, although it can be kept for up to 2 days at room temperature.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

Of all the cakes in the flourless genre, this Gâteau Victoire has the most marvelously creamy texture. Once baked, it’s so velvety moist that I recommend you cut it with a length of dental floss instead of a knife—even at the risk of getting some funny looks from your dinner guests who might think that you’re preparing to brush your teeth and call it a night.

12 ounces (340 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream

3 tablespoons (45 ml) dark rum, Cognac, or port (ruby or tawny)

6 large eggs, at room temperature

6 tablespoons (75 g) granulated sugar

Pinch of salt

Powdered sugar, for dusting the cake

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) springform pan. Wrap a large sheet of aluminum foil around the outside of the pan, making sure it’s absolutely watertight. Set the pan in a large roasting pan.

In a large heatproof bowl, combine the chocolate, cream, and rum, Cognac, or port. Set the bowl over a pan of simmering water and stir occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, whisk together the eggs, granulated sugar, and salt on medium speed until the mixture is thick and leaves a well-defined ribbon on the surface when you lift the beater, about 5 minutes.

Fold one-third of the beaten eggs into the chocolate mixture to lighten it. Then, fold in the rest. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and pour very warm water into the roasting pan to reach halfway up the sides of the springform pan.

Bake until the cake feels just set in the center, about 45 minutes. Remove the cake from the water bath and let cool completely.

Run a knife around the sides of the cake to help loosen it from the pan. Release the sides of the springform pan and dust the cake with powdered sugar.

STORAGE:
This cake is best the day it’s made, although it can be kept overnight at room temperature.

VARIATION:
A colorful cranberry, prune, and kumquat sauce is a lovely winter-season addition to serve alongside this cake during the holidays. Heat 2 cups (500 ml) of ruby or tawny port and ½ cup (100 g) of sugar in a small saucepan. Add 12 pitted prunes, quartered, and ⅔ cup (75 g) dried cranberries to the pan and simmer for 4 minutes. Add 12 sliced and seeded kumquats and simmer for 1 minute more.

MAKES TWO 9-INCH (23-CM) LOAF CAKES

To boost the reputation of the much-maligned fruitcake, I wanted to create a version quite different from those sticky, oversweet loaves riddled with iridescent fruit and soggy pecans. This recipe was my answer: an exceptionally moist loaf, chockablock with freshly toasted nuts, perky dried cherries, and a double wallop of chocolate flavor, courtesy of cocoa powder and lots of chocolate chips.

I was glad that my modern-tasting fruitcake made converts out of those who tried it. But I didn’t expect that so many would want to give it a traditional soaking of spirits to preserve the cake. I set to work and experimented a few times, but I had a hunch that something was amiss when I noticed some movement underneath the gauze wrapping. I unwrapped the cake and … well, let’s just say I discovered I was only one of the many creatures who enjoy this fruitcake. That was the end of my experiments. Instead, I just use with a kirsch-flavored glaze that can be added at the last minute.

FRUITCAKE

1½ cups (180 g) dried sour cherries, coarsely chopped

⅓ cup (80 ml) plus 6 tablespoons (90 ml) kirsch or light rum

1¼ cups (175 g) all-purpose flour

½ cup (50 g) unsweetened cocoa powder, preferably Dutch-process

1 teaspoon baking powder

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

½ cup (4 ounces/115 g) plus 2 tablespoons (1 ounce/30 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups (300 g) granulated sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

⅔ cup (160 ml) buttermilk or plain yogurt (whole-milk or low-fat)

1 cup (100 g) walnuts or pecans, toasted and finely chopped

¾ cup (120 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips

GLAZE

2 cups (225 g) powdered sugar, sifted

6 to 8 tablespoons (90 to 125 ml) kirsch or light rum

To make the fruitcakes, in a small saucepan, bring the dried cherries and ⅓ cup (80 ml) kirsch or rum to a boil. Remove from the heat, cover, and set aside to macerate for about 1 hour.

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of two 9-inch (23-cm) loaf pans, dust them with flour, and tap out any excess. Line the bottoms with rectangles of parchment paper.

Into a small bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa, baking powder, baking soda, and salt. Set aside.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, egg yolk, and vanilla, then slowly beat this mixture into the butter mixture. Stir in half of the flour mixture, followed by the buttermilk or yogurt, then mix in the remaining flour mixture. Gently stir in the nuts, chocolate chips, and the macerated cherries along with any unabsorbed liquid.

Divide the batter between the prepared pans and bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of one comes out almost clean, about 45 minutes. (Some chocolate will likely cling to the toothpick.) Let cool for 15 minutes.

Poke each cake about 50 times with a toothpick then slowly drizzle each cake with 3 tablespoons (45 ml) of the remaining kirsch or rum. Let cool 30 minutes, then run a knife around the sides of the cakes to help loosen them from the pans. Invert the cakes onto a wire rack, peel
off the parchment paper, turn them right side up, and let cool completely.

To make the glaze, in a medium bowl, whisk together the powdered sugar and 6 tablespoons (90 ml) of the kirsch or rum. If it’s too thick to spread (it should have the consistency of melted ice cream), whisk in 1 to 2 tablespoons (15 to 30 ml) more kirsch or rum. Spoon the glaze over the tops of the cakes, letting it run freely down the sides.

Let the glaze set until firm.

STORAGE:
You can freeze the loaves after they cool, prior to dousing them with alcohol and applying the glaze. At room temperature, the cakes will keep for up to 5 days, wrapped in plastic. It’s preferable to glaze them the day of serving.

VARIATION:
Substitute an equal amount of any type of dried fruits, such as cranberries, raisins, or diced prunes, for the dried cherries. Or, 1½ cups (750 g) drained Italian candied cherries make a flavorful substitute, too; because they’re packed in syrup, they don’t require soaking in kirsch or rum.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 10 TO 12 SERVINGS

An Italian acquaintance once pleaded, “Please—tell your American friends not to bring us any more maple syrup.
Basta!
“
At first, I didn’t quite understand. I mean, who doesn’t love maple syrup? But then I remembered that while we Americans love to douse everything we can with the sticky stuff, Italians take their infamous 30-second breakfast by downing a quick espresso at their corner
caffè
and never belly up to a stack of pancakes or plate of waffles in the morning. Since I’m not Italian, any gifts of maple syrup are encouraged. And I promise not to save it just for breakfast.