Salt Sugar Fat: How the Food Giants Hooked Us (60 page)

496
largest food manufacturer
“Nestlé’s Stellar Performance Tops Our Annual Ranking,”
Food Processing
, August 3, 2009.

497
the “Billionaire Brands Treasury”
“Vision, Action, Value Creation,” Nestlé Research, 2010, 26.

498
“is a Swiss bank that prints food”
Steven Witherly to author.

499
a remarkable invention
See Nestlé’s WIPO patent application, No. WO/2012/089676. Citing competitive reasons, the company declined to elaborate on this work.

500
“Obesity is not just for humans”
“Vision, Action, Value Creation,” 29.

501
so much fiber
Nestlé was able to show that a fiber-enriched yogurt would make one feel fuller than water crackers, which it detailed in the study. E. Almiron-Roig et al., “Impact of Some Isoenergetic Snacks on Satiety and Next Meal Intake in Healthy Adults,”
Journal of Human Nutrition and Dietetics
22 (2009): 469–474. But Erkner and other Nestlé officials emphasized that these findings were limited and should be viewed with caution. They cited the more sobering view of fiber and satiety in another Nestlé-funded study on fiber: Holly Willis et al., “Increasing Doses of Fiber Do Not Influence Short-Term Satiety or Food Intake and Are Inconsistently Linked to Gut Hormone Levels,”
Food and Nutrition Research
54 (2010).

502
“calorie burner”
“New Enviga Proven to Burn Calories,”
BevNet
, October 11, 2006.

503
They took one look
Center for Science in the Public Interest, letter dated December 4, 2006, to Coca-Cola and Nestlé; “Center for Science in the Public Interest v. The Coca-Cola Company, Nestlé, Beverage Partners Worldwide,” U.S. District Court for the District of New Jersey, 1:07cv539, filed February 1, 2007.

504
arguably one of the unhealthiest
The online nutrition service Calorie Count awards the Pepperoni & Three Cheese Calzone Hot Pocket a D+; most of the varieties receive Cs and Ds.

505
Nestlé, in response
Nestlé spokeswoman in email to author. “The brand delivered good tasting products in a very convenient and portable manner; we believed this benefit would grow in importance as millennials led the way towards more casual, less formal meals. The brand appealed mostly to males but provided us with a platform to meet evolving needs (we’ve since added breakfast items, expanded our Lean Pockets range and introduced Hot Pockets Snackers). Consumer research has helped us define what products make sense for this brand. While the core consumer initially is attracted to Hot Pockets, the additional benefits of Lean Pockets make it his choice as he ages. And the younger male in need of a satisfying sandwich is often still reliant on mom, the gatekeeper to the freezer (because she’s the shopper). Her longer list of nutritional interests again leads to Lean Pockets.”

506
Every year, two hundred thousand obese
Jonathan Treadwell et al., “Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis of Bariatric Surgery for Pediatric Obesity,”
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248, no. 5 (2008): 763–776; Malcolm Robinson, “Surgical Treatment of Obesity: Weighing the Facts,”
New England Journal of Medicine
361 (2009): 520–521.

507
“Many of these people”
Hillary Green to author.

508
the only indulgence
Louis Cantarell to author.

509
“This put special pressures”
Marion Nestle to Gabe Johnson,
The New York Times
, in unpublished video interview.

510
its annual confab
I am grateful to the conference sponsor,
Beverage Digest
, for allowing me to attend.

511
“a bit of a wimp”
Geoffrey Bible to author.

512
“We’re hooked on inexpensive food”
James Behnke to author.

513
“Clearly, processed sugar”
Nora Volkow to author.

514
“When a lot of us grew up”
Michael Lowe to author.

515
“It’s behavioral”
Steve Comess to author.

516
riddled with corner stores
I am grateful to Sandy Sherman and Brianna Almaguer Sandoval of the Food Trust organization for being generous with their time in showing me their ongoing success in encouraging corner store owners in Philadelphia to sell healthier foods, including fresh fruits and vegetables, and to Gary Foster of the Center for Obesity Research and Education, Temple University, Philadelphia, for discussing his research on corner store and school food. See, for example, Gary Foster et al., “A Policy-Based School Intervention to Prevent Overweight and Obesity,”
Pediatrics
121 (2008): e794–e802.

517
“It’s like somebody is saying”
Gabe Johnson and Michael Moss, “Food Fight,” a
New York Times
video, March 27, 2011.

518
“I need you to go”
Amelia Brown to author; Gabe Johnson and Michael Moss, “Food Fight.” Michael Moss, “Philadelphia School Battles Students’ Bad Eating Habits, on Campus and Off,”
New York Times
, March 27, 2011.

519
“Candy?”
McKinley Harris to author. Ibid.

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______.
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______.
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______.
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