SAS Urban Survival Handbook (35 page)

Ceramics

Whether in a pottery class or a home studio, it is very easy for the person involved in their craft to ignore the dangers from chemical glazes and from the heat of the kiln in which pots are fired. Most potters seem very casual about clay dust where they work. The dust is loaded with silica which can lodge in the lungs causing silicosis, a debilitating lung disease.

Many glazes are toxic, some very toxic, with lead and cadmium compounds common along with other dangerous metals. Some release poisonous fumes when fired.

Regularly inspect the equipment you use. Check electric wheels and kilns for safety and the flues of gas kilns. Is the pugmill safe? When pushing clay into it can you reach the screw? One day you may find out the hard way that you should not have removed the guards.

• ◑ NEVER breathe in particles of clay or glazes. Wear a mask—especially when spraying glazes.
  
• ◑ Instal an efficient extractor fan and ensure good ventilation in the workplace.
  
• ◑ DAMP DOWN DUST and clear up with a mop. DON’T use a dry brush (it stirs up the dust), or a vacuum cleaner—hazardous particles pass straight through!
  
• ◑ Clearly label ALL materials.
  

WARNING

Some glazes are unsuitable for tableware since they are never completely stable. Poisonous particles may be swallowed.

Other crafts

Hobbyists are taking up a wide range of home crafts. At one time, if not getting poisoned by substances such as oxalic acid in chemistry sets, the main danger seemed to be the inhalation of polystyrene cement while making up plastic model kits. Today both the range of activities and our knowledge of their risks has increased.

Accidents and illnesses can be avoided if you know the risks involved before you take up a craft. Most manufacturers and dealers should be helpful in warning of the dangers of equipment and materials—but also seek expert tuition and advice in craft processes.

Casting
miniature figures in ‘white metal’ is one of the new popular hobbies which carries severe risks from fumes and carbon monoxide—as well as the danger of serious deep burns from molten metal. Some reusable mould-making compounds release formaldehyde vapour, which is highly toxic (see POISONS:

Formaldehyde
). Silicon is a very common ingredient of mould-making ‘rubber’ and mould-release agents.

Enamelling
carries high risk of burns and exposure to toxic fumes as powdered mixtures of ground glass and chemicals are deposited on to pieces of copper and fired at a high temperature. There are grave dangers of inhalation and ingestion of powder ‘enamels’. Small kilns may have been insulated with asbestos—itself very dangerous. Be aware of the risks (see SAFETY FIRST:
Asbestos
).

Stained-glass work
uses lead, which is a dangerous, cumulative poison, and glass which can splinter unexpectedly and cut. Cuts will aid the entry of lead into the blood system. Flashcoloured glass usually has a thin layer of colour applied to one side—the side you cut. As the cutter runs over the surface, tiny fragments of glass fly up. As you lean in to concentrate on the work, eye protection is essential—as are thick gloves when straightening and stretching the lead cames.

Large amounts of solder and flux are used to join the work together—avoid inhaling the fumes they give off when heated. Individual sections of glass may be etched with acids or treated with chemicals, glass powders and oxides which are applied in solution and fired on. All need careful handling.

ARTISTS’ PAINTS

Paints used by artists, designers and illustrators are NOT for use by children, who should be given non-toxic play paints instead. Check that these play points ARE non-toxic.

Lead, mercury, arsenic, barium, manganese, cobalt, chromium, cadmium, titanium and antimony all frequently occur as compounds in artists’ paints. Never lick your brushes – even to ‘put a point on them’. Avoid excessive skin contact. If mixing dry pigment, also avoid inhalation.

Using ‘airbrushes’ or spray guns increases the risk greatly. Wear a dust mask and ensure good ventilation. There is also a fire/explosion risk if the air becomes heavily dust-laden – increased immensely if a solvent is involved.

Avoid hand-to-mouth contact. Don’t mix eating or smoking with painting. The danger is great – after years of using artists’ materials, the user may become casual about the dangers. Several of the toxic substances are cumulative poisons (in other words they build up in your system), many are carcinogenic (cancer causing), and by the time any serious effects come to light, it may be too late.

REMEMBER

If you currently enjoy or are thinking of taking up a craft, read all you can about it to discover the associated hazards—there are many other potentially dangerous crafts processes in addition to the examples given here. Enrol in classes before launching into a new activity. It will give you a chance to see whether it really interests you—and to learn about safety rules before taking unknown risks.

LADDERS

Most accidents in the home are caused by falls. Whenever you have to work above a comfortable height, you need something to stand on. DON’T use chairs, stools or boxes. They could tip over—and there is nothing to hold on to. NEVER make a pile of furniture or boxes to stand on.

Every home should have a simple set of steps—a small stool/steps combination will probably be enough for a kitchen. Make sure it has non-slip feet and is strong enough to take your weight. Never stand on the top step with both feet, unless there is a rail to hold onto. Never stand the stool/steps on anything to increase the working height.

Stepladders

You should have a small, lightweight, aluminium stepladder, with a safety bar/handrail at the top to hold onto and good locks—to stop the ladder folding up or splaying its legs when you are on it. The treads should be wide enough to be comfortable.

Don’t go for the biggest set of steps if you don’t really need them. Carrying them through the house could be difficult and dangerous. There are other points to consider:

• ◑ Are the feet of the stepladder non-slip?
  
• ◑ Try the ladder in the shop. Feel the weight—can you carry it easily? Can you put it up and collapse it easily? Does it have locks? Does it look/feel strong enough? Are there sharp edges or places where fingers could be pinched?
  

If you need to get in and out of a loft, there are extendible (two-way) ‘stepladders’ which could double as loft ladders. The best course of action would be to fit a special loft ladder which is always there, but folds up out of sight.

There are various two- and three-way convertible aluminium ladders which hinge in various directions. Before conversion, it may be a stepladder. Undoing locks and raising one side of the ladder will form a straight ladder.

Extension ladders

Most ladders are made of wood or aluminium. Aluminium is lighter, won’t rot and is generally less of a problem. The length of the ladder you need depends on how high you need to work and how much room you have to store the ladder when not in use. Ladders can be hired quite economically, which widens the range of choice considerably.

Working up ladders is neither as comfortable, nor as safe as working on a platform tower—but you may have no choice if there is no room to erect a tower.

Most extension ladders are in two separate sections (sometimes three) and extend to a ‘safe’ working length of about 6-7 m (19-22 ft)—’safe’ because there must always be an overlap between the sections when working. You will need a ladder to be at least 1 m (over 3 ft) longer than the highest point you need to reach. Always anchor it at the top for extra safety.

Using an extension ladder

If you feel nervous working off the ground, and this feeling does not pass, STOP. Not everyone is comfortable with heights. There is nothing ‘sissy’ about this. Working at a height is a very risky business—there are many deaths and injuries associated with using ladders.

NEVER rest the ladder on very uneven or very soft ground. If the feet seem likely to slip, DON’T climb the ladder. On uneven ground you may have to block up the feet, unless they are adjustable, and anchor the ladder top and bottom before climbing. On soft ground, rest the feet on a strong board to spread the weight. Bang pegs into the ground to stop the board slipping and anchor the ladder top and bottom. ALWAYS have someone working with you, in order to:

• ◑ Hold onto the ladder, with one foot on the bottom rung to steady it
  
• ◑ Get help if an accident occurs
  

NEVER lean sideways off a ladder—move the ladder so you can reach. NEVER climb higher than the fifth rung from the top—you need some ladder to hold onto.

REMEMBER

Use the rule of threes: Of your two hands and two feet, three points of contact should always be made. Either both feet and one hand should be in contact—or both hands and one foot. Professional climbers always use this rule to avoid risk-taking and accidents.

While working

• ◑ Wipe mud off your feet BEFORE you climb the ladder.
  
• ◑ When working, have BOTH feet on one rung and spread your weight evenly.
  
• ◑ Lean against the ladder with your legs, keeping your free hand behind the ladder, holding a RUNG.
  
• ◑ DON’T hold onto the side of the ladder, if you slip, your grip won’t hold.
  
• ◑ DON’T lean the ladder against guttering—this is dangerous. If necessary, use a stand-off. This is a small frame which holds the ladder away from the wall at the top.
  
• ◑ If working in one location, tie the ladder to pegs driven into the ground.
  
• ◑ ALWAYS anchor the top of the ladder to stop it slipping. Tie it to a fixed/stable part of the building, through a window to an immovable object or to a batten across the inside of the window frame.
  
• ◑ If you need to rest the top of the ladder exactly where a window is, tie a strong batten or stout plank across the top of the ladder to rest the load either side of the window.
  

REMEMBER

• ■
  Check ladders regularly for signs of wear and tear
  
• ■
  Never use a ladder as a bridge, laid down to walk on
  
• ■
  Never use a wooden ladder if you suspect rot
  
• ■
  Never leave a ladder unattended outside. Children and burglars are quite fond of them
  
• ■
  Lock the ladder away when not in use—or chain to a stout tree or fixed post
  
• ■
  Never work up a ladder in high winds
  
• ■
  Never allow more than one person on a ladder at a time
  
• ■
  Never ascend or descend a ladder with your back to it
  
• ■
  Don’t climb if you are drunk, tired or feeling ill
  
• ■
  NEVER position a ladder in a doorway
  

CARRYING TOOLS

DON’T carry tools in your hand, your pockets or slung about your body on hooks or straps. They could cause a serious injury if you fall. Instead, carry tools up in a shoulder bag, which you could jettison, and hang it on a hook when you reach working height. DON’T drop tools to the ground when you’ve finished with them!