Southern Comfort (19 page)

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Authors: Allison Vines-Rushing

BOOK: Southern Comfort
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In a stand mixer fitted with the dough hook attachment, mix the flour and salt. Add the sweet potato reduction and mix well at medium speed. Add the olive oil and egg and mix until the dough comes together in a ball. Continue to work the dough in the mixer for 5 minutes. Remove the dough from the mixer and shape it into a ball. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and place in the refrigerator for at least 1 hour to rest.
Set up your pasta machine. Lightly flour a baking sheet and have nearby. Halve the dough, keep half covered in plastic. Lightly flour your work surface.
Roll half of the dough through your pasta machine from the largest setting through each progressively smaller setting, stopping at the second smallest setting.
Using a pizza cutter or knife, cut your dough into long, 1-inch-wide ribbons. Place the cut pasta on the prepared baking sheet and repeat the rolling and cutting process with the other half of the dough. Let the pasta ribbons rest uncovered while the sauce cooks.
To make the sauce, remove the stems from the shiitake mushrooms and reserve them for stock or other use. Cut the mushroom caps into wedges and reserve.
Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil.
Heat a large sauté pan over medium-high heat until smoking, then decrease the heat slightly. Add the oil to the pan, then the shiitake mushroom caps (do not season with salt just yet),
and caramelize them lightly for 1 minute. Decrease the heat to low and add the butter to the pan. Once the butter is foaming and brown, add the confit and stock, season with salt to taste, and bring to a simmer. Once a light sauce begins to form in the pan, whisk all the elements together until they are emulsified. Remove the pan from the heat while you cook the pasta.
To finish the pasta, drop the pasta ribbons into the rapidly boiling water and cook for 30 seconds. Drain the pasta through a colander and return it to the pasta cooking pot. Add the mushroom sauce to the pasta and, using tongs, coat the pasta well in the sauce.
Adjust the seasoning, then divide the pasta among six dishes. Top with a few shavings of sheep cheese and fresh herbs.
FREGOLA WITH COLLARD GREENS AND LEMON
S
ERVES
4
Down here, the go-to recipe for collard greens involves a big pot, a ham hock, and an hour of cooking. A more modern approach results in additional nutrition combined with a shorter cooking time. In this dish, we thinly slice and quickly steam collards so they stay bright green, then we add nutty fregola (a small, round semolina pasta), toasted garlic, and a bright lemon broth. The result is like a chic city makeover of these country greens.

½ cup dried fregola pasta
1 bunch collard greens, well washed
1 lemon
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 large cloves garlic, thinly sliced
½ cup water
15 grape tomatoes, halved
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
To cook the pasta, bring 4 cups of water and 1 teaspoon of salt to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Add the fregola and cook until al dente, about 8 minutes. Drain in a colander and rinse under cold water. Set aside.
To prepare the greens, trim the tough stems from the collard greens and discard them. Cut the leaves into thin strips and reserve in a bowl.
To prepare the lemon, using a vegetable peeler, first peel off thin strips of yellow zest from the lemon and cut the strips into matchsticks (julienne). Slice off both ends of the lemon and then trim away all remaining peel and white pith. Holding the lemon in one hand, use a sharp knife to cut away and free each lemon segment. Reserve the segments and julienned zest in a bowl, and discard the rest of the lemon.
To make the sauce, heat a large sauté pan with a tight-fitting lid over medium-high heat. Add the olive oil and garlic and carefully toast the garlic slices until they are light brown, about 1 minute. Carefully add the collard greens and water and immediately cover with the lid. Cook, covered, for 2 minutes. Uncover, and add the lemon zest and lemon segments, tomatoes, cooked fregola, salt, and pepper. Cook uncovered for another 2 minutes, stirring to combine all of the ingredients.
Serve immediately.
BUTTERMILK AND CHIVE SPAETZLE
S
ERVES
4
To Southerners, a simple boiled dough is a dumpling. Spaetzle is a small German dumpling that elegantly cradles a rich sauce, such as a braise. We like to serve them with rustic meats, such as veal cheeks or braised chicken thighs. If you crave a bit of green, sauté the spaetzle with sweet peas or bitter broccoli rabe.

2 cups all-purpose flour
1½ teaspoons salt
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
4 large eggs
¾ cup buttermilk
Fresh chives, chopped
Unsalted butter, for sautéing the spaetzle
Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Fill a bowl with ice water and have nearby.
To make the spaetzle dough, whisk together the flour, salt, nutmeg, and pepper in a large bowl. In a separate bowl, whisk together the eggs and buttermilk. Make a well in the center of the dry ingredients and pour the wet ingredients into the well. Using a whisk, bring together the wet and dry ingredients, working from the inside out to ensure there are no lumps. Lastly, fold the chives into the dough and mix well.
To cook the spaetzle, once the water has come to a boil, put all of the dough into a metal colander with large holes and rest the colander on rim of the pot of boiling water. Using a spatula, press the dough through the holes in the colander into the boiling water. Let the spaetzle cook until all of the dumplings float to the surface, about 3 minutes. Transfer them with a slotted spoon to the ice bath to cool down.
To serve, sauté the spaetzle in a hot pan with butter until they are crispy.

Shrimp Ravioli in Andouille Broth

SHRIMP RAVIOLI IN ANDOUILLE BROTH
S
ERVES
4
The use of store-bought wonton skins in this recipe make this one-pot ravioli dish a cinch to prepare. Poaching the ravioli directly in the broth not only saves time, but more importantly, allows the flavor to fully permeate the dough. Another plus: the depth of flavor of the andouille and soy broth will beguile your audience into thinking you spent all day in the kitchen.

B
ROTH
¼ cup soy sauce
12 cups water
3 pounds andouille sausage, sliced ⅛ inch thick
F
ILLING
½ pound shrimp, peeled and deveined
½ teaspoon ground white pepper
1 teaspoon fine sea salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh ginger
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
¼ cup loosely packed cilantro leaves, chopped
2 bunches green onions (about 14 stems), white and green parts, thinly sliced
1 (12-ounce) package wonton wrappers
1 pound shiitake mushrooms, stems removed and reserved for another use, caps sliced
2 carrots, peeled and julienned
To make the broth, in a large saucepan, combine the soy sauce, water, and andouille. Bring to a boil over high heat. Once it comes to a boil, immediately decrease the heat to a slow simmer and simmer the broth for about 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, prepare the filling. Chop the shrimp finely and place in a small bowl. Add the white pepper, salt, ginger, sesame oil, cilantro, and half the green onions and mix all together until well combined. Using a tablespoon measure, scoop out sixteen equal portions of filling. Roll the filling between your palms to form marble-size balls and place them on a plate. You can wet your palms with water periodically to keep the filling from sticking to your hands.
Remove the ravioli skins from the wrapper and place them on your work surface. Cover them with a slightly damp towel so they don’t dry out. Have a small cup of cool water nearby to use to seal the ravioli.
To assemble the ravioli, place one wonton wrapper in the palm of your hand and place a ball of filling in the center. Dip one finger in the water and wet all edges of the wonton skin around the filling. Cover with a second wonton wrapper, cupping the ravioli in the palm of your hand, and pinch the edges of the ravioli closed with your thumb and index finger. (
See photos
at end of recipe.) Place the ravioli on another plate and continue until all the ravioli are assembled.
To cook the ravioli, return the andouille broth to a boil and then immediately drop the ravioli into the broth, one by one. Add the mushrooms and carrots and return the broth to a simmer. Cook for 3 minutes, stirring occasionally to keep the ravioli from sticking together.
To serve, divide the ravioli among four bowls and top with the broth, sliced andouille, and the vegetables. Garnish the dish with the remaining green onions.

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