Southern Comfort (23 page)

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Authors: Allison Vines-Rushing

BOOK: Southern Comfort
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Red Snapper with Satsuma Chili Sauce
and
Butter-Glazed Green Cabbage

RED SNAPPER WITH SATSUMA CHILI SAUCE
S
ERVES
4
In Louisiana, the red snapper season coincides with the first crop of Louisiana citrus—satsumas. Driving home from successful snapper-fishing excursions, Slade often pulls over at a roadside citrus stand in Plaquemines Parish to pick up a sack of perfectly ripe satsumas for an accompanying sauce. This dish was inspired by the culinary mantra of “what grows together, goes together,” referring to the pairing of ingredients that are in season simultaneously. This lovely, mild fish and the sweet, slightly tart satsuma may not “grow” together, but they go together swimmingly.

1½ cups satsuma juice (from about 12 satsuma oranges; clementines are a good substitute)
1 tablespoon sugar
1 tablespoon champagne vinegar
2 tablespoons cold unsalted butter
1 teaspoon ground Aleppo pepper (see
Sources
)
4 (5-ounce) red snapper fillets, skin on and boned
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
Wondra flour, for dusting the fish
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
To make the sauce, in a large saucepan, cook the satsuma juice with the sugar and vinegar over medium-high heat until reduced to a syrupy liquid. Stir in the butter and Aleppo pepper. Keep warm until the fish is cooked.
To cook the fish, season the snapper with salt and black pepper and lightly dust the skin side with Wondra flour to prevent it from sticking to the pan.
In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over high heat until it is smoking; decrease the heat to medium-high. Gently lay the fish, one at a time and skin-side down, in the pan; with a flat metal spatula, press the fish firmly until it lays flat.
Continue to cook the fish until the skin is crispy, about 1 minute. You can check the progress by gently lifting the side of the fish and checking the skin side. Once the skin is crispy, turn each fish over and cook just until the tip of a knife feels warm after you poke it though the center, about 1 more minute. Remove the fish from the pan.
To serve, put a pool of sauce in the center of each plate and place the fish on top.
W
ONDRA
F
LOUR
Wondra is a brand of instant flour that is precooked and has added barley. This gives it more texture than regular flour, and makes it dissolve instantly. Wondra flour is great for sautéing; it lightly adheres to the surface of a protein to create a nonstick barrier between the meat and the pan, and it yields a crispier, lighter crust.
SEARED SCALLOPS IN ANDOUILLE-THYME BUTTER
S
ERVES
4
A perfectly cooked scallop is cooked just until it is no longer cool in the center and seared to a beautiful caramel color. We have a trick using a two-pronged tool called a meat fork to check the internal temperature: insert the tip of the meat fork halfway down in the center of the scallop, then quickly remove it and place the tip right below your bottom lip. If the metal is just warm, the scallops are a perfect medium. That sweet, perfectly cooked scallop paired with the spiciness of the andouille sausage makes this dish sing. We use dry-packed scallops, which means that they have been naturally packed without the use of a preservative solution that sacrifices flavor and inhibits a golden brown sear.

12 dry-packed jumbo sea scallops
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 shallots, finely diced
2 ounces andouille sausage, finely diced
½ cup white wine
¼ cup unsalted butter, diced
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (no stems)
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Heat a large ovenproof sauté pan over high heat until it is smoking. Season the scallops with salt and pepper. Decrease the heat to medium-high, add 2 tablespoon of the olive oil, and place six of the scallops in the pan. Cook the scallops on one side until they are nicely caramelized, about 1 minute. Transfer the cooked scallops to a plate. Repeat this process with the remaining six scallops, removing the old oil and replacing it with 2 tablespoons of the olive oil.
Once the second set of scallops is nicely caramelized on one side, flip them over and add the cooked scallops back to the pan, caramelized side up. Place the pan in the oven for 3 minutes to finish cooking. Transfer all the scallops to a plate.
Remove the old oil from the pan and replace it with the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil. Return the pan to medium heat. Add the shallots and andouille to the pan and cook until the shallots are translucent and soft, about 1 minute. Deglaze the pan with the white wine, scraping the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon to incorporate all the caramelized bits from the bottom into the sauce.
Cook until the wine is reduced by half; add the butter to the pan. Once the sauce is thick enough to coat the back of a spoon, adjust the seasoning with salt and pepper and stir in the fresh thyme leaves.
Serve the scallops warm with some of the sauce spooned over the top.
SEARED SMOKED PEPPER TUNA WITH MOLASSES-SOY SAUCE
S
ERVES
4
Who says you can’t barbecue fish? In this dish we combine the essential ingredients of great barbecue—smoke, sweet, salt, and vinegar—and pair it with meaty yellowfin tuna. Served with buttery black-eyed peas and green onions, the flavors bring to mind a summer picnic.

½ cup molasses
3 tablespoons soy sauce
Scant teaspoon Dijon mustard
1½ teaspoons champagne vinegar
4 (5-ounce) pieces yellowfin tuna, at least 1 inch thick
2 teaspoons salt
3 tablespoons ground smoked black pepper (see
Sources
)
2 tablespoons light olive oil
To make the sauce, whisk together the molasses, soy sauce, mustard, and vinegar in a small saucepan. Cook the mixture over medium heat until it’s reduced by half, about 5 minutes, skimming the scum completely off of the top of the sauce with a spoon. Let the sauce cool while you cook the fish.
To cook the fish, season each piece of tuna with ½ teaspoon of the salt. Pour the smoked pepper onto a plate and spread it out evenly. Gently press each tuna into the smoked pepper on all sides, forming a crust of pepper all over. Tap the tuna pieces lightly to remove any excess pepper.
Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat and add the oil to the pan. Once the oil is almost smoking, sear the tuna on all sides for about 15 seconds each side. This should result in a nice crust, but keep the inside of the fish rare.
Transfer the fish to plates and let cool slightly, then drizzle with the sauce and serve.

Almond-Dusted Pompano with Brown Butter Sauce

ALMOND-DUSTED POMPANO WITH BROWN BUTTER SAUCE
S
ERVES
4
Pompano is a popular fish found on most menus of New Orleans “old school” restaurants. While trout is generally used in traditional amandine presentations, we think the oily richness and firm texture of pompano work really well with the toasted almond crust. The bright acidity of the brown butter sauce with the addition of fresh parsley makes the classic pairing of these ingredients timeless.

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