Southern Comfort (3 page)

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Authors: Allison Vines-Rushing

BOOK: Southern Comfort
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1 pork tenderloin (about 1½ pounds)
1½ cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons canola oil
8 slices bacon, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 green bell pepper, diced
1 onion, diced
1 tablespoon chopped garlic
1 tablespoon
Creole spice
1 teaspoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon paprika
2 bay leaves
1 ripe tomato, chopped, cored, juices reserved
4 green onions, white and green parts, thinly sliced (for garnish)
Cut the pork tenderloin into twelve 2-ounce cutlets. Place each cutlet between sheets of plastic wrap. Using a meat mallet, pound each medallion until it is a uniform thickness of about ⅛ inch.
In a baking dish large enough to hold a cutlet, mix 1 cup of the flour with ½ teaspoon of the salt and ½ teaspoon of the pepper until fully incorporated. Lightly dust each cutlet in the flour mixture on both sides; set aside on a plate until ready to cook.
For the cutlets, have a plate ready. For the bacon, line a plate with paper towels and have ready.
Heat a 12-inch cast-iron skillet over medium heat until slightly smoking. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil and sauté the cutlets in batches, four at a time. Cook them for 1 minute on each side, then transfer from the pan to the plate and repeat with the remaining oil and cutlets.
Once all of the pork is cooked, keep the skillet on medium heat and add the bacon to it. Cook the bacon until the fat is fully rendered out. With a slotted spoon, remove the bacon from the pan to the paper-lined plate and reserve it on the side, leaving the fat in the pan. Decrease the heat to low and whisk in the remaining ½ cup of flour until smooth and the consistency of wet sand. Cook, whisking constantly until the roux becomes light brown and nutty, about 10 minutes. Add the diced bell peppers, onion, and garlic and cook the vegetables in the roux until tender, about 3 minutes.
Carefully whisk in the remaining ½ tea- spoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper, Creole spice, cumin, paprika, and bay leaves. Once the spices are incorporated, whisk in the stock and chopped tomato with its juices until a smooth sauce is formed. Increase the heat to medium and bring the sauce to a low simmer. Decrease the heat to low and simmer for 10 minutes, skimming off any excess fat. Strain the sauce through a sieve and return it to the skillet. Place the pork cutlets in the sauce and warm them through.
Serve the pork in the sauce over the grits and garnish with the sliced green onions.
CREAMY GRITS
8 cups whole milk
2 cups quick grits
1 cup unsalted butter, cut into pieces
½ cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
Place the milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until it scalds (when a skin forms on top, and it begins to bubble around the edges). Whisk the grits into the milk and decrease the heat to medium-low. Cook for 10 minutes, whisking occasionally to prevent clumps. Finish the grits by whisking in the butter, heavy cream, salt, and pepper. Cover with a lid, remove from the heat, and reserve until serving. It will stay hot for about 20 minutes, covered.

Smoked Redfish and Farm Egg Salad

SMOKED REDFISH AND FARM EGG SALAD
S
ERVES
4
This is our version of
frisée aux lardons
, the classic French salad. Pairing feathery bitter lettuce and bacon with unctuous soft-boiled egg, it’s a salad that easily serves as a main course. Our lagniappe of lightly smoked redfish makes this salad perfect for brunch. If you cannot find redfish, good substitutes are pompano or Spanish mackerel. You’ll need a stovetop smoker for the redfish (see
Sources
).

12 ounces redfish fillets, boned and skinned
1 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1 tablespoon soy sauce
2 tablespoons honey
4 ounces applewood smoked bacon, finely diced
2 shallots, finely diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
2 tablespoons sherry vinegar
¼ cup canola oil
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
½ teaspoon fine sea salt
½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
6 heads frisée (curly endive)
¼ cup distilled white vinegar
4 large farm eggs
4 ounces fresh chives, chopped
Put the redfish fillets in a rimmed dish.
To make the marinade, in a small bowl, whisk together the red pepper flakes, soy sauce, and 1 tablespoon of the honey and pour over the fish. Let the fish marinate for 1 hour.
To make the vinaigrette, add the bacon to a sauté pan and cook over low heat, stirring occasionally, until the fat is rendered and the bacon is crispy, about 10 minutes. Pour off half the fat and add the shallots and garlic. Cook until the shallots and garlic are translucent, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent burning. Add the sherry vinegar and the remaining 1 tablespoon honey then cook until reduced by half. Pour into a bowl and let cool. Whisk in the canola and olive oils, the ½ teaspoon salt, and ½ teaspoon pepper; reserve.
To prepare the frisée, fill a large bowl with ice water. Grab a pair of sharp scissors and hold the frisée heads with one hand. Cut off all the bitter green pieces and discard them. Next, cut the remaining frisée into little clusters into the ice water.
Wash well and dry thoroughly in a salad spinner.
To smoke the redfish, place 1 cup hickory chips in the rear of the bottom of a stovetop smoker. Remove the fish from the marinade and arrange the fillets on the rack of the smoker, positioning them in the front of the smoker away from the wood chips. Set the stovetop smoker on your cooktop so the rear is on top of a back burner, and the front of the smoker sits on a front burner. Set only the rear burner to high and let the smoker sit over high heat until a steady smoke drifts out of the smoker. Decrease the heat to low and continue to smoke for 5 minutes.
Remove the fillets from the smoker. Quickly break them into large flakes with your hands and reserve on a plate.
To poach the eggs, add 12 cups of water and the distilled vinegar to a large saucepan and bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce to medium-low heat for a slow simmer.
Meanwhile, to finish the salad, put the frisée, redfish, and vinaigrette in a large bowl and season with salt and pepper. Mix the salad well and divide it among four plates.
Stir the simmering vinegar water, then crack the eggs into it, one by one. Cook the eggs for 2 minutes and then, with a slotted spoon, remove them one at a time, placing one egg on each salad. Garnish with fresh chives.

Spinach and Crawfish Omelet with Choron Sauce

SPINACH AND CRAWFISH OMELET WITH
CHORON SAUCE
S
ERVES
4
Choron is a hollandaise sauce with the essence of tomato and tarragon. Hollandaise has a special place our relationship. On our first Valentine’s Day, we were working together at Gerard’s Downtown. Slade was on his station furiously—and secretively—creating. He then brought over a breakfast made just for me. It was two poached eggs with heart-shaped toasts, bacon fashioned into Cupid’s arrows, and “I Love You” written in hollandaise. I was a goner.

C
HORON
S
AUCE
½ cup canned plum tomatoes in juice (about 2 tomatoes), pureed in a blender
Sprig of tarragon
4 large egg yolks
Juice of 1 lemon
2 cups unsalted butter, each stick cut into quarters
1 tablespoon water
½ teaspoon white wine vinegar
2 dashes hot sauce
¼ teaspoon fine sea salt
S
PINACH
-C
RAWFISH
O
MELETS
8 large eggs
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
8 ounces baby spinach (about 4 cups)
4 ounces crawfish tails, deveined
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

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