Spice (18 page)

1.
Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest of the limes or oranges without taking off too much pith. If you’ve got a lot of pith attached after stripping, remove it by using a small paring knife at a vertical angle to plane the pith off of the zest (see page 72).

2.
Toast the citrus zest (see page 72).

3.
Grind the zest in a blender or a coffee grinder and mix in the sumac, fennel seeds, and chilies.

4.
Store the mix in an airtight container in a cool, dark place for up to 4 months, or in the freezer.

Halibut Cakes with Olive Oil–Lemon Sauce

Atlantic halibut is a large (50-to 100-pound) whitefish that is flaky and tender and has a rich, buttery flavor, even though it is lean. When halibut is not available, cod makes a good substitute. Atlantic cod, another lean whitefish, is firmer and more dense than halibut. The fish spice in this recipe perks up a simple fish-and-potato cake and adds bright flavors. It’s great on any fish—including snapper, flounder, skate, monkfish, bluefish, striped bass, grouper, or salmon—but it’s particularly delicious on whitefish.

The lemon–olive oil sauce is a favorite of mine, and I like it with any fish. Basically it’s a lemon vinaigrette, blended until it emulsifies (a handheld emulsion blender would work well here). The sauce on its own is very lemony, and combined with the potato and whitefish, it’s more elegant than the classic lemon wedge. You can also add some fresh oregano to the sauce and serve it with any grilled fish or squid.

These fish cakes pair nicely with a small glass of ouzo or Turkish raki before a meal. I learned the hard way that one must sip ouzo, merely to get it on the lips. It can be dangerous when consumed in large quantities. You can also try a white Rhone wine, such as a Rousanne or Marsanne, with this dish.

M
AKES
8
LARGE FİSH CAKES TO SERVE
8

1 pound russet or Idaho potatoes (about 2 potatoes)

1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 pound halibut fillet, boned and skinned

Salt and pepper to taste

1 tablespoon Fish Spice (page 75)

1 small white onion, finely chopped

1 teaspoon chopped garlic (about 1 large clove)

1 egg plus 1 egg yolk

¼ cup freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ teaspoon salt

1.
Preheat the oven to 350°F.

2.
Peel the potatoes and cut each into quarters. Place them in a medium saucepan covered with water over high heat and bring them to a boil. Lower the heat to medium and simmer the potatoes until they are very tender, about 10 minutes. Drain immediately.

3.
Meanwhile, drizzle 2 tablespoons of the olive oil onto a heavy baking sheet and roll the fish fillet around in the oil, just to coat the baking sheet and the fish. Season the fish with salt and pepper.

4.
Make sure the oiled fillet is skin-side down on the baking sheet, and sprinkle heavily with the fish spice. Bake until barely cooked through, for about 6 minutes.

5.
In a small sauté pan, sauté the onion and garlic with 1 tablespoon of olive oil on medium-high heat. Cook for about 8 minutes, stirring from time to time, until the onions are softened and translucent. Set aside.

6.
Using a small whisk, potato masher, or a fork, mash the potatoes. Do not worry if they are not really smooth. Season the potatoes with salt and pepper.

7.
Stir in the onion, garlic, whole egg, egg yolk, and the fish fillet, being careful not to break the fish up too much. You want to bite into big, flaky chunks of fish. It gives the fish cakes more texture.

8.
Place the lemon juice, ½ teaspoon of salt, and ½ cup of extra-virgin olive oil in the blender and blend until it thickens slightly.

9.
Form the fish-and-potato mixture into 8 patties using a small ice cream scoop or a ½-cup measure.

10.
Heat a large sauté pan with 1 tablespoon olive oil on medium heat. Brown 4 cakes at a time for about 4 minutes on each side. Wipe the pan clean and repeat the browning process with the remaining 1 tablespoon of olive oil. If the cakes absorb all of the oil, quickly add another tablespoon of oil after flipping the cake.

11.
Serve immediately with a spoon of olive oil–lemon sauce and more fish spice sprinkled on top.

If the Sauce Separates

Try adding an ice cube and reblending the sauce. If it separates again, add ½ egg yolk to the blender and blend again. The sauce should coat the back of a spoon. You might find that the sauce becomes too thick, like mayonnaise; you can thin it out by adding a little water or more lemon juice
.

Roasted Beets with Toasted Orange Aioli and Pine Nuts

I really enjoy the toasty, caramel flavor that the orange zest gives to the garlicky mayonnaise (
aioli
) in this recipe. The beets are a great way to start a meal as part of an antipasti or served with greens as a salad course.

There are many different beet varieties to discover nowadays.
Chioggia
(also called candy-striped) or golden beets work well in this recipe, as they are sweeter, milder, and more peppery than typical red beets. Both are heirloom beets (coming from old seed varieties that have been rediscovered), and they won’t bleed much juice or stain your hands.

This recipe will trick guests who think they hate beets.

As a first course, serve this dish with an aromatic white wine, such as Viura, from Spain’s Rioja region.

S
ERVES
4

6 small chioggia (candy-striped) or golden beets, the size of golf balls, with greens attached, if possible

½ cup pine nuts

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil plus extra for drizzling

Salt and pepper to taste

1 cup toasted orange aioli (see the variation on Lemon Aioli, page 50)

1 sprig fresh oregano, leaves only, roughly chopped

Baby lettuces or your favorite salad greens

1.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.

2.
Cut the tops off of the beets and trim and discard any yellow or tough leaves. Trim off the stalks and wash the whole leaves well.

3.
Trim about ¼ inch off the top and bottom of each beet so they stand without rolling around. Place them in a heavy roasting pan and drizzle them with 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and sprinkle them with salt and pepper. Cover them twice tightly with aluminum foil and place them in the oven.

4.
Roast the beets for 30 to 40 minutes or until they are tender when pierced with a knife. They should be firm, but the knife should slide in easily. Cool and set aside.

5.
Meanwhile, toast the pine nuts by placing them on a baking sheet in the oven for about 8 minutes, until they are golden brown. Cool and set aside.

6.
Make the aioli.

7.
Peel the beets with a small paring knife or by rubbing them with a paper towel to remove the skin.

8.
Bring a small pot of water over high heat to a boil and drop in the clean beet greens. Add salt to taste. Reduce the heat to a simmer and cook the greens for about 4 minutes, until tender. Drain, cool, and set aside.

9.
Smear some aioli to form a thin layer about 1/8 inch thick on the bottom of a large serving platter, using the back of a serving spoon.

10.
Slice the beets in ¼ -inch slices and arrange them over the aioli on the platter.

11.
Chop the beet greens coarsely and season them with salt and pepper. If your beets came without greens, it’s okay; the salad greens are sufficient. Sprinkle the beet greens and pine nuts over the beets and season with salt and pepper.

12.
Sprinkle the oregano leaves over the top of the beets.

13.
Drizzle a little olive oil on the top and serve the beets at room temperature with baby lettuces.

Endive and Apple Salad with Grapes, Sumac, and Pecan Labne