Spice (80 page)
Authors: Ana Sortun
18.
Before serving the cremolata, let it sit at room temperature for about 5 minutes, or until it is just soft enough to scoop.
19.
Scoop the cremolata into frosty ice cream dishes and top them with a generous amount of sugared almonds.
PINK WINE IS NOT A BAD THING
Theresa Paopao, Wine Director at Oleana
If given a choice, I would happily drink only rosé champagne for the rest of my life, but I’m willing to bet that most people associate pink wine with something other than the world-class fermented grape juice that it actually is. Most Americans—at least those that fall in line at the tail of Gen X, like me—associate pink wine with wine coolers or other white zinfandel. Not wanting to be confused with cheap wine drinkers, we shun rosés. Besides, pink is frou-frou. It looks fabulous in a martini glass à la
Sex and the City,
but in a wine glass, somehow pink has less appeal.
More and more people, though, are beginning to drink rosé wines and discovering that 1) they can be dry and most of the time are; 2) they can be as complex and interesting as their red and white counterparts; 3) they are refreshing, especially on a hot summer day; but 4) they’re not just for summer anymore—they’re a great alternative to white during the winter when red just won’t do; and 5) rosé goes with just about everything, from simple fish dishes to spicy barbeque.
Some really good French rosés can be found from Guigal. But rosés vary, and a trustworthy wine retailer can be your best guide as you experiment.
Persian saffron
Arabic products
Coffee/spice grinders
Flash-frozen peeled chestnuts from Italy
www.blackwalnuts.com
Black walnuts
Corti Brothers
www.cortibros.biz
916-736-3800
Grano
Black truffles
The Farm School
www.farmschool.org
Linden blossom honey
Maras chilies
Serrano ham
Urfa chilies
Red pepper paste from Turkey Yufka dough
Heirloom seeds
Kalustyan’s
www.kalustyans.com
800-352-3451
Aleppo chilies
Baharat spice mix
Chickpea flour
Egyptian mint
Fenugreek leaves
Grape leaves
Madras curry powder
Nigella seeds
Pomegranate molasses
Turkish coffee pots
Urfa chilies
Za’atar (green or Jordanian)
www.kellerscreamery.com
Plugra buter
Greek yogurt
Old Chatham Sheep Herding Company
www.blacksheepcheese.com
Sheep’s milk yogurt
Oldways Preservation and Trust
www.oldwayspt.org
Greek yogurt
Blue poppy seeds
Cinnamon
Herbs de Provence
Különleges paprika
Sweet curry powder
Natural lump charcoal
Smoked salt
Hog casings
Sevan Bakery
www.sevanboston.com
599 Mount Auburn Street Watertown, MA 02472
617-924-9843
Lamejun
Manti
Hot paprika
Salt cod
Smoked paprika
Sun-dried paprika (bittersweet)
www.sunnylandmills.com
Grano
Stainless steel ring molds
http://todarobros.com/
Cheese curds
Dark-roasted organic tahini Dried mulberries
Heirloom chickpeas
Sun-dried pepper paste
www.tulumba.com
Basturma
Kurukahveci Mehmet Effendi, a Turkish coffee Ohanyan’s pastirma
Sumac
Crème fraîche
Cultured butter
Indian sugar
Goat-cheese crottin
Pomegranate molasses
Red rice from the Camargue
This book would not have been possible without many other people. I am deeply grateful for their encouragement, commitment, and support.
I’d like to thank my entire staff at
Oleana
for their hard work and for keeping the restaurant going strong while I wrote this book. I’d especially like to thank Wilton Osorno and Nookie, our sous-chefs; Maura Kilpatrick, pastry chef extraordinaire, who contributed many great recipes to this book; my business partner, Gary Griffin, for trusting me and allowing me to pursue my dreams; and our manager Theresa Paopao, for helping me pair wines so carefully with each dish. Thanks also to Christine Tobin for such enthusiasm, charm, and passion for food styling.
I’d like to thank my agent Lisa Ekus, who was my cheerleader and often my voice. Thanks also to the ladies at ReganBooks, especially Cassie Jones, for believing in this book and pushing me forward, and to Judith Regan, Tammi Guthrie, Richard Ljoenes, and Adrienne Makowski.
Thank you to writer Nicole Chaison, for coaxing out my ideas and then transforming them into clear words on the page.
Thank you to Susie Cushner, the most talented photographer I know, who believed in this project so deeply and, along with her team, made such artful pictures.
I am very grateful to Rosemary Jason and my dear friend Susan Turner for helping test recipes.
Thank you to Cliff Wright for being a rich resource of information and Mediterranean facts, and to Paula Wolfert, Nancy Jenkins, and Claudia Roden for being my mentors.
Thank you to Maria Hatzilliades, Ferda Erdinc, and Ayfer Unsal, who continue to inspire me, for allowing me to include their recipes and stories.
Thank you to my husband Chris Kurth, for putting up with me while I wrote, and for his editing, unconditional love, encouragement, support, and most of all, for the food he grows that inspires me to cook better and fresher every day.
Big thanks to Nora Huvelle and David Lubin for the use of their beautiful home in creating pictures. Thanks also to Jacquelyn and Greg Bokor for the same.
I’d like to thank all my friends that believed in this book and believed in the restaurant and contributed so much to its success: especially Sari Abul-Jubein, Vartan Nalbandian, Max Hatzilliades, Joanne Reeves, Maura Shepard, and Mike Toth.
And lastly, I’d like to thank all my customers, who have, over the years, continued to request this book and motivate me to write it.
The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.
A
Abul-Jubein, Sari, x, 83
acorda: Portuguese bread soup with rock shrimp, 214–15
Adams, Ruth Ann, 310
Adar, Gökcen, 123, 285
Aigo Bistro, ix, 338
aioli:
lemon, 50
nasturtium, zucchini fritters with, 308–9
toasted orange zest, 50
Aleppo chilies, 140–41
recipes with Urfa, paprika and, 143–71