The Ancestral Table: Traditional Recipes for a Paleo Lifestyle (13 page)

French Onion Soup

Onion soups were eaten by the ancient Greeks, but the French combination of caramelized onions, bread, and cheese was developed in the 17th century. Originally considered a lower-class food, French onion soup grew to popularity in the United States during the 1960s, like many French dishes.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
2 HOURS

2 TBSP. BUTTER

3 YELLOW ONIONS, HALVED AND THINLY SLICED INTO HALF-MOONS

1/2 TSP. SEA SALT

1/4 CUP DRY RED WINE

3 CUPS CHICKEN BROTH (
SEE HERE
)

2 CUPS BEEF BROTH (
SEE HERE
)

1/2 TSP. APPLE CIDER VINEGAR

1 SPRIG FRESH PARSLEY

1 SPRIG FRESH THYME

1 BAY LEAF

SALT AND BLACK PEPPER TO TASTE

1/2 LB. GRATED SWISS CHEESE, LIKE GRUYÈRE

1. Melt the butter in a stockpot on medium-low heat for 1 minute, then add the onions and salt. Sauté without stirring for 10 minutes, then stir and sauté until golden brown, about 50 minutes, stirring every 10 minutes and reducing the heat as needed to prevent burning. Add the wine and simmer until most of the wine has evaporated, about 10 minutes. Add the broths, vinegar, and herbs (tie them together in a bouquet garni or wrap them in cheesecloth). Simmer for 20 minutes, season with salt and pepper to taste, and discard the herbs.

2. Set the oven to broil for 5 minutes to preheat it. Ladle the soup into 4 bowls, then top with the grated Swiss cheese. Be sure to spread the cheese evenly so that it doesn’t sink when it cooks. Place the bowls on a baking sheet and carefully place in the oven. Broil until the cheese is melted and browned, about 3 minutes, then carefully remove, let sit for 5 minutes, and serve.

3. For maximum flavor, refrigerate the soup overnight and reheat in a stockpot before ladling into bowls and topping with cheese.

Basic Rice Recipes

Most people (including me) use rice cookers, but I find that cooking a pot of rice on the stove is a rewarding experience of its own. I make two main types of plain rice at home: medium-grain (calrose) rice is an excellent everyday rice, while long-grain basmati rice is fragrant and tends not to stick together. In all cases, white rice is preferred over brown rice (for more information,
see here
).

The methods for cooking these rices differ, but both types should be used as vessels for other nutrients. I like to boil medium-grain rice in broth and to steam basmati rice in coconut milk, butter, and spices.

BASIC STEAMED RICE

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
5 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
40 MINUTES

2 CUPS MEDIUM-GRAIN (CALROSE) WHITE RICE

2 1/2 CUPS WATER OR CHICKEN BROTH (
SEE HERE
)

1. Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, about 3-4 changes of water, then drain and place in a stockpot. Add the water or broth and let the rice soak for 10 minutes. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat without lifting the lid, which should take about 5 minutes; listen for sounds of water boiling or the lid rattling.

2. Once it starts boiling, reduce the heat to low and simmer until the rice starts to make a hissing sound, which indicates that the water has evaporated, about 10-15 minutes. Turn the heat to high for 30 seconds to dry out the bottom of the rice, then turn off the heat. Leave the pot covered for 10 more minutes, then uncover and fluff the rice with a spoon or paddle.

STEAMED BASMATI RICE

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
5 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
50 MINUTES, PLUS UP TO 6 HOURS TO SOAK THE RICE

2 CUPS LONG-GRAIN (BASMATI) RICE

2 QUARTS WATER

1 TBSP. COCONUT OIL

1 LARGE POTATO, CUT INTO 1/4" SLICES

2 TBSP. BUTTER OR GHEE

1/4 CUP COCONUT MILK

1/2 TSP. TURMERIC

1. Soak the rice in cold water for at least 1 hour or up to 6 hours. Rinse the rice until the water runs clear, then pour the rice into a stockpot and fill with 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat, and gently simmer until the rice starts to float, about 6 minutes; strain and set aside. Spoon the coconut oil into the empty pot, then line the bottom of the pot with the potato slices. Using a large spoon, scoop the rice from the strainer into the pot, one scoop on top of the other, to make a conical shape. Do not tap or shake the pot, which will cause the rice to compact.

2. In a small saucepan, melt the butter or ghee, then stir it into the coconut milk and turmeric. Once combined, pour the mixture evenly over the rice in a spiral pattern. Wrap a towel or other cloth around the lid of the pot, clipping the excess cloth to the lid’s handle.

3. Cover and steam the rice over medium heat for 7 minutes, then reduce the heat to low and steam for another 40 minutes. Uncover and gently stir the rice to distribute the turmeric.

4. In addition to or in place of the turmeric and coconut milk, feel free to experiment with other spices, including cumin seeds, dried cilantro, and saffron.

Sticky Rice

If you’ve eaten at a Thai restaurant, you’ve probably had sticky rice. In many parts of Southeast Asia (Laos and northern Thailand, for example), eating with your hands is still an accepted practice. Recent research has shown that ancient buildings in China used stones bound together by a sticky rice glue.

Sticky rice is also referred to as glutinous rice, but that doesn’t mean it contains gluten—it simply refers to its glue-like texture. It is also labeled as sweet rice or mochi rice. It comes in short-grain and long-grain varieties; either type is fine.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
2 HOURS (TO SOAK THE RICE)
COOKING TIME:
30 MINUTES

1 CUP SWEET, MOCHI, OR GLUTINOUS RICE (THEY’RE ALL THE SAME THING)

1. Soak the rice in cold water for 2 hours. Drain and rinse the rice, then put it in a metal colander; place the colander on top of a stockpot filled with at least 2" water. Cover the colander with a lid that’s wrapped in a towel. Bring the water to a boil and steam for 10 minutes, then flip the rice with a spatula and steam until cooked through and opaque, about 5 more minutes.

2. Serve with a curry (like Chicken Panang,
see here
) or use as a base for a dessert: for example, pair it with coconut milk and fresh fruit, like sliced mango.

Dirty Rice

Dirty rice is a Cajun dish made “dirty” by being cooked with chicken offal, usually a combination of livers, hearts, and gizzards. An essential part of this dish is its use of the “holy trinity” of Cajun cuisine: a mirepoix of onion, bell pepper, and celery.

Cajun cuisine is the product of French-speaking Acadian immigrants who were forced by the British to move from Acadia (eastern Canada) to Louisiana in the middle of the 18th century. Though similar, Cajun cuisine shouldn’t be confused with Creole cuisine; while both use regionally available ingredients, Cajun cuisine is based almost exclusively on French culinary methods, while Creole cuisine takes cues from many European cooking methods.

It is easiest to mince chicken livers when they are partially frozen.

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
20 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
1 HOUR

2 TBSP. BUTTER

1 SMALL ONION, DICED

1 GREEN BELL PEPPER, DICED

2 STALKS CELERY, DICED

2 CLOVES GARLIC, MINCED

1 LB. MIXED CHICKEN LIVERS AND GIBLETS (GIZZARDS AND HEARTS), MINCED

4 SAUSAGES (ANDOUILLE OR CHORIZO), SLICED AND QUARTERED

1 1/2 CUPS MEDIUM-GRAIN (CALROSE) WHITE RICE

1 TSP. CUMIN

1 TSP. PAPRIKA

1 TSP. SEA SALT

1 TSP. BLACK PEPPER

1/2 TSP. DRIED OREGANO

1/2 TSP. DRIED THYME

3 CUPS CHICKEN OR PORK STOCK (
SEE HERE
)

TABASCO TO TASTE

1 SMALL HANDFUL FRESH PARSLEY, CHOPPED

1. In a large skillet, warm the butter on medium heat, then add the onion, bell pepper, and celery and sauté until softened, about 4 minutes. Add the garlic and sauté for another minute, then add the minced chicken livers and giblets. Sauté for another 4 minutes, then add the sausages, rice, seasonings, and herbs. Toast the rice until opaque, stirring frequently, about 4 minutes.

2. Once the rice is toasted, stir in the stock and add 4 squirts of Tabasco. Bring to a boil, cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer until the liquid evaporates, about 40 minutes. You’ll know that the stock has been absorbed when the rice starts to make a hissing sound.

3. Uncover, stir in the parsley, and add salt, pepper, and Tabasco to taste.

4. This rice pairs perfectly with Southern Fried Chicken (
see here
) and Meaty Collard Greens (
see here
).