The Ancestral Table: Traditional Recipes for a Paleo Lifestyle (21 page)

Lamb Tagine

A tagine (sometimes spelled tajine) is a type of slow-cooked Moroccan stew. It gets its name from the earthenware pot in which it is usually cooked, also called a tagine. The use of ceramics in North Africa was the result of Roman influence, so it makes sense that the dish is dated to that period.

A typical tagine is made with a cheaper cut of lamb or beef, like shoulder or shank. Seasonal fruits like dates, raisins, and apricots are often added, along with honey and preserved lemons. Tagine pots are unique in that they trap steam and return the condensed liquid to the dish, enabling chefs to make tender foods with minimal added water, which is ideal in areas where water is scarce.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES PLUS OVERNIGHT
COOKING TIME:
2 1/2 HOURS

2-3 LBS. LAMB SHOULDER , CUT INTO 1" CHUNKS

1 TSP. GROUND GINGER

2 TSP. BLACK PEPPER

1 TBSP. GROUND CINNAMON

1 TBSP. TURMERIC

1 TBSP. PAPRIKA

1 TBSP. OLIVE OIL

1 TBSP. COCONUT OIL

1 MEDIUM ONION, MINCED

2 TBSP. HARISSA (
SEE HERE
)

1 TBSP. HONEY

~1 1/2 CUPS CHICKEN BROTH (
SEE HERE
)

1/2 CUP DRIED APRICOTS

1 TBSP. MINCED PRESERVED LEMON (
SEE HERE
) OR 1/2 TSP. MINCED LEMON RIND

JUICE OF 1/2 LEMON (1 TBSP.), OR TO TASTE

SLICED ALMONDS, CHOPPED FRESH PARSLEY OR CILANTRO, AND PLAIN YOGURT FOR SERVING

1. Combine the lamb pieces with the ginger, pepper, cinnamon, turmeric, paprika, and olive oil; marinate in the refrigerator overnight.

2. In a Dutch oven or tagine, heat the coconut oil on medium heat. Brown the lamb pieces in batches, turning every few minutes, until well browned and crusted, about 8 minutes per batch. Remove from the pot and set aside when finished.

3. Add the onion to the pot and sauté until aromatic, about 5 minutes, scraping up any chunks of lamb stuck to the bottom. Stir in the harissa and sauté for another 2 minutes. Return the lamb and its juices to the pot, along with the honey and enough chicken broth to mostly cover the lamb, about 11/2 cups. Bring to a simmer, then cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer gently for 1 hour. Add the apricots, simmer for 1 more hour, and check the meat for doneness; a fork should easily pierce the meat. If not done, cover and simmer for another 30 minutes and check again.

4. When the lamb is tender, remove the lamb and apricots with tongs and set aside. Increase the heat to medium-high and reduce the sauce until slightly thickened, about 5 minutes. Return the lamb and apricots to the pot along with the preserved lemon or lemon rind. Season with salt, pepper, and lemon juice to taste, and serve with sliced almonds, chopped parsley or cilantro, and plain yogurt.

Rogan Josh
(Kashmiri Lamb Curry)

Rogan josh is a popular Kashmiri dish that is believed to have originated in Persia before making its way to northern India and beyond. In Persian, rogan means clarified butter and josh means hot or passionate. Its signature red color is historically the result of mild red Kashmiri chiles. Over the years, many restaurants started using tomatoes to give the dish a red color with more easily accessible ingredients. Today, tomato taste has become a part of the dish’s profile; my recipe follows the modern interpretation but retains the traditional Kashmiri red chili powder as well.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
1 1/2 HOURS

2 BAY LEAVES

6 WHOLE CARDAMOM PODS

1 CINNAMON STICK

1 TBSP. PAPRIKA

1 TBSP. KASHMIRI RED CHILI POWDER (OR 1 TSP. CAYENNE PEPPER)

2 TSP. GROUND CUMIN

1 TSP. SEA SALT

1 TSP. BLACK PEPPER

1 TSP. GROUND CORIANDER

2 MEDIUM ONIONS, COARSELY CHOPPED

1" FRESH GINGER, PEELED AND COARSELY CHOPPED (OR 1 TSP. GROUND GINGER)

8 CLOVES GARLIC, COARSELY CHOPPED

3 WHOLE CLOVES

2 TBSP. GHEE

2-3 LBS. LAMB SHOULDER, CUT INTO 2" CHUNKS

1 (14 OZ.) CAN TOMATO SAUCE

1 LARGE HANDFUL FRESH CILANTRO, COARSELY CHOPPED

1. In a small bowl, combine the bay leaves, cardamom pods, cinnamon stick, paprika, chili powder, cumin, salt, pepper, and coriander, and set aside. In a blender or food processor, blend the onions, ginger, garlic, and cloves into a fine paste.

2. Warm the ghee in a Dutch oven on medium-high heat until shimmering, about 3 minutes. Add the lamb pieces and brown on each side, in batches if needed, turning every 3 minutes. Once the lamb is well browned, reduce the heat to medium and add the onion paste and seasonings, gently stirring to mix the ingredients thoroughly. Sauté until aromatic, about 5 minutes.

3. Stir in the tomato sauce and bring to a simmer. Cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for 1 hour. After an hour, remove the lid and check for doneness; the lamb should be fork-tender. If it is still tough, cover and simmer on low for another 30 minutes and then check again, repeating this step as needed until the meat is tender. Add salt and pepper to taste, and fish out any whole cardamom pods you can find.

4. Right before serving, stir in the chopped cilantro. Cilantro is not a traditional accompaniment to this dish, but it adds a nice, fresh-tasting finish. Serve with Steamed Basmati Rice (
see here
) or Cauliflower Rice (
see here
).

Shashlik
(Russian Shish Kebabs)

Shashlik (Шашлык) is a type of shish kebab commonly found in Russia and the former Soviet republics. It was likely brought to Moscow from central Asia in the 19th century. Today, it’s a popular summer food cooked over an open fire at social gatherings. Shashlik is traditionally prepared with lamb, but chicken, pork, and beef variations are becoming increasingly prominent.

I prefer to use metal skewers; the initial investment pays off since you can reuse the skewers and don’t have to worry about soaking them ahead of time to prevent burning.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES, PLUS 4 HOURS TO MARINATE
COOKING TIME:
10 MINUTES

2-3 LBS. LAMB SHOULDER, CUT INTO 2" CHUNKS

2 MEDIUM ONIONS, COARSELY CHOPPED

6 CLOVES GARLIC

1/4 CUP WATER

4 BAY LEAVES

1/4 CUP APPLE CIDER VINEGAR

1 TBSP. BLACK PEPPER

1 TBSP. OREGANO

JUICE OF 1/2 LEMON (1 TBSP.)

4 METAL SKEWERS OR 8 (8”) WOODEN SKEWERS

1 TSP. SEA SALT

1. Place the lamb chunks in a resealable plastic bag. Blend the onions, garlic, and water into a smooth purée, then combine with the bay leaves, vinegar, pepper, oregano, and lemon juice. Pour into the bag with the lamb and marinate in the refrigerator for 4 hours. If using wooden skewers, soak them in water for the last hour of marinating time.

2. Remove the lamb from the bag and skewer. Grill on direct high heat, rotating the skewers with tongs every few minutes and sprinkling the salt evenly over the skewers as they cook. The total cooking time should be 8-10 minutes. Let rest for 5 minutes, then serve with sliced fresh vegetables, like tomatoes, mushrooms, or cucumbers. This dish is best enjoyed outdoors with family and friends, as is traditional in Russia.

Barbecue Pulled Pork

In the pre–Civil War period of the American South, pork became a staple as a low-maintenance and convenient food source; on average, Southerners ate 5 pounds of pork for every pound of beef. While many methods of cooking pork were popular, barbecued pork in the form of pulled pork and ribs (
see here
) quickly became a source of Southern identity.

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
1 1/2 HOURS
COOKING TIME:
UP TO 16 HOURS

4-8 LBS. PORK BUTT OR SHOULDER (BONE-IN PREFERRED)

1/2 CUP ALL-PURPOSE PORK AND POULTRY RUB (
SEE HERE
)

HICKORY OR APPLE WOOD CHUNKS, OR A COMBINATION

2 CUPS BARBECUE SAUCE (
SEE HERE
)

1. Pat the pork dry with paper towels, then rub generously all over with the pork rub. Set out on a baking sheet for 1 hour to come to room temperature as you prepare your grill for indirect smoking (
see here
). Smoke the pork at 225°F until the internal temperature reaches 195-200°F, about 2 hours per pound. The temperature will stall at around 150°F, which is normal. Remove from the grill, wrap in aluminum foil, and let rest in the oven heated to 170°F for at least 30 minutes or up to 1 hour. Remove from the oven and shred the meat with 2 forks or pairs of tongs, discarding any bones. Serve with barbecue sauce.

2. To save fuel, you can remove the pork from the grill once it reaches 150°F, then wrap it in aluminum foil and put it in a 225°F oven to finish. This method creates a less-crusty outside, but the result still tastes good. Check the pork’s temperature every 30 minutes until it reaches 195-200°F, which can take upwards of 4 hours depending on the size of your pork shoulder.