The Ancestral Table: Traditional Recipes for a Paleo Lifestyle (22 page)

Barbecue Ribs

Like pulled pork (
see here
), barbecue ribs are a part of Southern culture and identity in the United States. While many cultures have been slow-cooking meats since antiquity, it’s the marriage of pork, seasonings, and smoke that gives barbecue ribs their signature flavor and cult following.

While ribs are often smoked upwards of 10 hours at a very low temperature for maximum tenderness, I find that a mid-range temperature produces delicious ribs with a much shorter cooking time.

SERVES:
2-4
PREP TIME:
10 MINUTES, PLUS 1 HOUR TO MARINATE
COOKING TIME:
3-5 HOURS

2 RACKS BABY-BACK OR SPARE PORK RIBS

½ CUP ALL-PURPOSE PORK AND POULTRY RUB (
SEE HERE
)

HICKORY, APPLE, OR CHERRY WOOD CHUNKS, OR A COMBINATION

½ CUP APPLE JUICE

1 CUP BARBECUE SAUCE (
SEE HERE
)

1. Using a sharp knife and your hands, remove the membrane from the underside of the ribs by cutting it away from the meat and pulling toward the opposite side of the ribs. Removing the membrane takes patience and practice; consult an online video to get the method right.

2. Sprinkle a heavy coating of the pork rub onto the ribs without rubbing it in. Wrap tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour to allow the rub to melt into the juices that will be released from the salt in the rub.

3. After the ribs have been in the fridge for 30 minutes, prepare your grill for indirect smoking (
see here
). If using a gas grill, prepare as you normally would for indirect smoking, using hickory and/or fruit wood chunks and chips. If using a round charcoal grill, place a large aluminum pan in the center of the grill and fill the grill with unlit charcoal briquettes on both sides of the pan; separately, light a full chimney starter with charcoal briquettes, adding 4 hickory or fruit wood chunks on top. Once the charcoal in the chimney starter is hot, evenly pour the charcoal and wood chunks over the 2 piles of unlit coals. Place the grilling grate on top, cover, and open all vents.

4. Take the ribs out of the plastic wrap and put them on the cool part of the grill. Cover and smoke at 225-250°F for 21/2 hours if making baby-back ribs or 31/2 hours if making spare ribs. Adjust the ventilation or the gas burners as needed to maintain the desired temperature range.

5. Remove the ribs and wrap each rack tightly with aluminum foil, adding 1/4 cup apple juice to each rack. Return to the grill and cook for another 30 minutes. If you’re using a charcoal grill, add a few briquettes to each side if needed.

6. Check the ribs for tenderness by piercing the meat with a toothpick; the toothpick should pierce the meat without resistance. If they aren’t ready, return the ribs to the grill and check every 30 minutes until done.

7. When they are tender, remove the ribs from their foil wrapping and return to the grill. Brush on some barbecue sauce and cook directly over the flame to caramelize the sauce, about 2 minutes per side. Let rest for 5 minutes and serve.

Meaty Collard Greens

Greens were popular in the early American South when slaves were forced to survive on kitchen scraps like the tops of vegetables and undesirable pork parts, like ham hocks, necks, and feet. Today, the dish has been refined and remains a favorite in many Southern kitchens. In fact, collard greens are the state vegetable of South Carolina.

This recipe is unlike many typical greens recipes, which often add pork or bacon pieces in small portions or as an afterthought; this dish celebrates the savory nature of pork by using both broth and a significant amount of pork. If you aren’t able to find smoked ham hocks or neck bones, unsmoked varieties will do—just be sure to add 2 tsp. liquid smoke when adding the greens to the pot. Alternatively, you can buy smoked turkey necks or smoked turkey wings.

SERVES:
6
PREP TIME:
20 MINUTES
COOKING TIME:
3 HOURS

2 LBS. SMOKED HAM HOCKS OR NECK BONES, OR A COMBINATION

1 CUP WATER

2 CUPS CHICKEN OR PORK STOCK (
SEE HERE
)

2-3 LBS. COLLARD GREENS, TURNIP GREENS, MUSTARD GREENS, OR KALE, OR A COMBINATION, COARSELY CHOPPED WITH STEMS INTACT

1/2 TSP. RED PEPPER FLAKES

1 TBSP. APPLE CIDER VINEGAR

1. Combine the smoked meats, water, and stock in a stockpot over medium heat. Bring to a boil, reduce the heat to medium-low, and gently simmer, uncovered, for 1 hour. Add the greens, red pepper flakes, and vinegar; cover, reduce the heat to low, and simmer for an additional 2 hours or until the leaves are dark green and tear very easily.

2. Fish out the pork pieces with tongs and let cool for a few minutes, then pick out the meat from the bones and skin; return the meat to the pot. Taste and add salt, pepper, and hot sauce if desired—you likely won’t need to add salt due to the inherent saltiness of smoked pork.

3. Be sure to drink the leftover, nutrient-dense liquid, known as collard liquor or pot likker; this tradition dates back to Africa.

Pork Adobo

Adobo, often considered the national dish of the Philippines, is a method of stewing meat in vinegar. The word adobo itself is linked to a Spanish method of preserving raw meat by immersing it in a mixture of vinegar, salt, and paprika. When the Spanish observed an indigenous Philippine cooking method involving vinegar in the 16th century, they referred to it as adobo, and the name stuck. The original name for this dish is no longer known.

Cane vinegar (sukang maasim) is an integral part of this dish’s taste and can be found in any store that carries Philippine products. I keep a bottle of Datu Puti brand at home and use it exclusively to make adobo. White vinegar will work in a pinch.

SERVES:
4
PREP TIME:
2 HOURS TO OVERNIGHT
COOKING TIME:
90 MINUTES

1 1/2 LBS. PORK BELLY, CUT INTO 2" CHUNKS

1 1/2 LBS. PORK SHOULDER, CUT INTO 2" CHUNKS

1/3 CUP TAMARI

10 CLOVES GARLIC, COARSELY CHOPPED

2 TBSP. BLACK PEPPERCORNS

1 TBSP. COCONUT OIL

5 BAY LEAVES

2/3 CUP CANE VINEGAR (WHITE VINEGAR IS OKAY)

1 CUP WATER

1. Combine the pork, tamari, garlic, and peppercorns in a resealable plastic bag and marinate for at least 2 hours, overnight preferred.

2. Warm the coconut oil in a Dutch oven on medium heat for 1 minute, then add the pork pieces and brown, in batches if needed, until a crust forms, turning the pieces every 2-3 minutes. Add the bay leaves, vinegar, and water. Bring to a simmer, cover, reduce the heat to low, and continue to simmer for 1 hour. Do not open the lid during this hour; many people believe that doing so will make the dish taste sour.

3. Remove the pork pieces with tongs and set aside, then strain the liquid and discard the peppercorns, garlic, and bay leaves. (Some cooks prefer to leave them in, which is fine.) Set the liquid aside.

4. Return the pork pieces to the Dutch oven and adjust the heat to medium-low. Sauté the pork until it is crispy and most of the fat has been rendered out, in batches if needed. Turn the pieces every few minutes; it should take about 10 minutes per batch. Set aside the crispy pieces and cover with aluminum foil to keep warm.

5. Return the liquid to the Dutch oven, increase the heat to medium-high, and reduce the liquid by one-third, gently scraping up any remaining pork pieces as the sauce reduces, about 5 minutes. Pour the sauce over the pork and serve with rice (
see here
).

Siu Yuk
(Roasted Pork Belly)

Siu yuk
is a Cantonese preparation of roasted pig most often associated with roasted pork belly. This dish is typically reserved for special occasions, like hosting guests or celebrating an accomplishment.

Chinese five-spice powder is sold as a spice mix, but if you are feeling adventurous, you can make it using equal parts star anise, cloves, Chinese cinnamon, Sichuan pepper, and fennel seeds, all ground into a fine powder using a mortar and pestle.

SERVES:
4-6
PREP TIME:
1 HOUR PLUS OVERNIGHT
COOKING TIME:
1 HOUR

2-3 LBS. PORK BELLY (SKIN ON), CUT LENGTHWISE INTO 1 1/2" STRIPS

2 TSP. CHINESE FIVE-SPICE POWDER

2 TSP. WHITE PEPPER

2 TSP. SEA SALT

1. Place the pork belly slices skin side up on a wire rack, and set in the sink. Pour 2 quarts boiling water over the pork belly, then place the rack in the fridge to cool for 1 hour. Combine the seasonings in a small bowl, then rub them all over the 3 meaty sides (not on the skin). Poke the skin all over with a fork. Place the rack back in the fridge and leave to dry, uncovered, overnight.

2. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Place the rack on a baking sheet and roast, skin side up, until the skin is crispy, about 1 hour. Let rest for 5 minutes, then slice and serve. It’s easiest to slice pork belly skin side down.