The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (37 page)

Sundaes, invented in the late 19th century, are so spelled because religious Americans
believed that it was sacrilegious to name a dish after the Sabbath.

PLUM SUNDAES

Fresh plums, cooked in sugar and spices until glazed and syrupy, make a scrumptious topping for
ice cream sundaes. The plums can be prepared several hours ahead and left at room temperature
until needed.

SERVES 4

2
pounds medium, just ripe dark red or purple plums

4
tablespoons unsalted butter

⅓
cup sugar, plus more if needed

¼
teaspoon ground cinnamon, plus more if needed

¼
teaspoon ground ginger

1
quart best-quality vanilla ice cream or Burnt-Sugar Vanilla Ice Cream
(page 291)

4
fresh mint sprigs

Halve plums lengthwise, and slice each half into ½-inch-thick wedges.

Melt butter in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add plums and sprinkle with ⅓ cup sugar. Stir constantly and cook until sugar dissolves and becomes syrupy and plums are tender when pierced with a knife, 6 to 8 minutes. After several minutes the glaze will become a crimson color. Watch carefully, and do not overcook, or plums will become mushy. Remove from heat and stir in ¼ teaspoon cinnamon and ginger. Taste and add more sugar and an extra pinch of cinnamon, if needed. Cool cooked plums 5 minutes. (The plums can be prepared 4 hours ahead.

Leave at cool room temperature. Reheat, stirring, over medium heat.)

To assemble sundaes, place a generous scoop of ice cream in each of 4 sundae glasses or in wide-mouthed wine glasses. Ladle about ¼ cup of the warm plums over the ice cream. Make 2 more layers in each glass. Spoon any remaining plums over sundaes. Garnish each sundae with a fresh mint sprig. Serve immediately.

BLUEBERRY SUNDAES

Warm, thick blueberry sauce ladled over scoops of tart lemon sorbet is the simple concept for
these sundaes. The sauce can be made several days ahead and reheated when needed.

SERVES 4

Warm Blueberry Sauce
(page 337)

3
tablespoons dry red wine

1
quart best-quality lemon sorbet

4
fresh mint sprigs

Stir blueberry sauce in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium heat until warm. Stir in red wine, then cool 5 minutes.

Place a generous scoop of sorbet in each of 4 sundae glasses or in wide-mouthed wine glasses.

Drizzle each with 2 tablespoons of the warm sauce. Make 2 more layers in each glass. Drizzle sundaes with any extra sauce, or save for another use. Garnish each sundae with a fresh mint sprig.

Serve immediately.

EXTRA-SPECIAL ICE CREAM SANDWICHES

For this creation, scoops of vanilla ice cream are sandwiched between homemade Chocolate Chip
Maple Pecan cookies, then pressed together into sandwiches. The cookies can be baked a day or
two ahead so that only a quick assembly is necessary at serving time.

SERVES 4

8
Chocolate Chip Maple Pecan Cookies
(page 272)

1
pint best quality vanilla ice cream or ½ recipe Burnt-Sugar Vanilla Ice Cream
(page 291)
, slightly softened To make sandwiches, place a cookie on a work surface (flat/bottom-side up). Top with about ⅓

cup ice cream. Place another cookie (flat/bottom-side down) on top of ice cream and press gently to form sandwich. Repeat to make 3 more sandwiches. Freeze the ice cream sandwiches on a baking sheet until ice cream is firm, 30 minutes or longer. Serve ice-cream sandwiches with paper napkins.

The Creole word
lagniappe
means a “little something extra.” In Louisiana, where the term originated, you hear it all the time. It’s a bonus—an unexpected gratuity. Merchants routinely surprise their customers with
lagniappe
, as a way of showing their appreciation. I think of the extras in this book—piquant condiments, seasoned butters, and scrumptious dessert sauces—as
lagniappe
. They are those unexpected extras that surprise and please palates, and let your guests know that you have put heart and soul into a preparation.

There are dozens of salsas, relishes, butters, mayonnaises, and chutneys in this chapter that will dress up a plain chicken, enliven a burger, or add pizzazz to chops or steaks. A taste of sweet, hot, or piquant definitely gets your attention and transforms ordinary dishes into memorable ones. Easy homemade chutneys like the crimson-hued Plum Chutney or the tart Rhubarb Chutney can reside for days in the refrigerator, ready to add bursts of flavor to your dishes. Colorful salsas, made with all manner of fruits or vegetables, are perfect partners to just about anything cooked on the grill. Chunky Guacamole Salsa is irresistible on juicy sirloins or mounded atop a thick burger, and festive Tomato Orange Salsa makes swordfish unforgettable.

Relishes, distinguished by both sweet and tart notes, are make-ahead accents that give zing to grilled sausages or to a plate of cold cuts. Pats of seasoned butter are instant flavor boosters, too. Blue Cheese Walnut Butter, when spread on piping hot grilled steaks, melts instantly to form a luxurious sauce. Similarly, Lime Cilantro Butter invigorates grilled fish or chicken fillets. And mayonnaise and mustard, two familiar standbys, are even better when enhanced with herbs or spices, then used in condiment roles.

Desserts need extras, too. Maybe it’s gilding the lily, but for me less is
not
more when it comes to the sweet course. Best Ever Caramel Sauce, Chocolate Coffee Sauce, or Warm Blueberry Sauce make already good things even better! Consider it just a little
lagniappe
.

CHUNKY GUACAMOLE SALSA

Homemade guacamole far surpasses store-bought varieties. In this enticing version, coarsely
chopped avocados and plum tomatoes are tossed in lime juice and sprinkled with cilantro. Hot
peppers and shallots add heat and texture. The salsa makes a delicious garnish for juicy
hamburgers
(page 38),
or it can be used as a dip with crispy tortilla chips. You could scoop out
summer tomatoes, fill them with this guacamole, then serve them as a side dish. Or, you might like
to top soft flour tortillas with grilled shrimp, shredded lettuce, and some guacamole before rolling
them into burritos.

MAKES 2½ CUPS

2
ripe avocados, soft but not mushy

2
large (about 6 ounces) ripe plum tomatoes

1
3-inch-long jalapeño pepper, minced
(see page 17)

2
tablespoons fresh lime juice

2
tablespoons chopped shallots

2
tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

1½
teaspoons ground cumin

½
teaspoon salt

2
tablespoons olive or vegetable oil

Halve, seed, and peel avocados, then cut into ½-inch dice. Place in a medium nonreactive bowl.

Halve tomatoes, seed them, and cut into ½-inch dice. Add to medium bowl along with minced jalapeño.

In a small bowl, mix together lime juice, shallots, cilantro, cumin, and salt. Whisk in oil. Pour over the avocados and tomatoes and mix gently so that avocados do not get mashed. Taste and add more salt, if needed. Serve immediately or cover with plastic wrap and leave at room temperature for up to 1 hour. (The salsa can also be covered and refrigerated for 4 hours. Bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

The jalapeño pepper gets its name form Jalapa, the capital of Veracruz, Mexico.

MANGO LIME SALSA

This salsa, like most, is a study in contrasts. The mango’s flesh is silken smooth compared to the
crisp texture of the onions. This fruit is naturally sweet and is complemented by the tart lime. Both
fresh serrano peppers and black pepper add piquancy. The colorful mélange makes a tempting
garnish to grilled fish or chicken.

MAKES ABOUT 1⅓ CUPS

1
large, ripe mango

¼
cup chopped red onion

1
tablespoon fresh lime juice, plus more if needed

½
teaspoon grated lime zest

2
teaspoons chopped fresh cilantro

1
teaspoon finely minced serrano chile pepper
(see note; also see page 17)

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Peel the mango, then cut the flesh away from the large flat seed. Cut flesh into ½-inch dice so that you have about 1 cup. Place diced mango in a medium nonreactive bowl.

Add onion, 1 tablespoon lime juice, lime zest, cilantro, and serrano to the mango and mix well.

Taste and season the salsa with salt and pepper and with a little extra lime juice, if desired. Serve immediately, or cover and refrigerate. (The salsa can be prepared 6 hours ahead; bring to room temperature 15 minutes before serving.)

NOTE:
A serrano chile is a small 1½-inch-long, slightly pointed pepper with a very hot taste. As it matures, its smooth dark green skin becomes orange, then yellow. I like the green serrano peppers, but you could substitute another hot pepper, adding it gradually in small amounts and tasting until you have the degree of hot seasoning you like.

TOMATO-ORANGE SALSA

This salsa, with its burst of orange and red hues, makes a perfect garnish to grilled swordfish
(page 92)
or other grilled seafood. It is also a tempting condiment to serve with grilled pork or
chicken.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

3
medium navel oranges

1½
cups chopped, seeded tomatoes

¼
cup minced red onion

¼
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

2
tablespoons fresh orange juice

2
teaspoons minced garlic

2
teaspoons balsamic vinegar

1
teaspoon minced peeled fresh ginger

1/8
teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Peel oranges, cutting away all the white pith beneath the skin. Cut out segments, then cut segments into ½-inch dice and place in a large nonreactive bowl. Add tomatoes, onion, parsley, orange juice, garlic, vinegar, ginger, and cayenne. Mix well, then taste and season with salt and pepper. Let salsa stand at least 1 hour. (Salsa can be prepared 4 hours ahead. Cover and refrigerate.

Bring to room temperature before using.)

MANGO, TOMATO, AND KIWI SALSA

This tri-colored salsa, which tastes best when made a few hours in advance, makes an excellent
condiment to serve with grilled chicken, fish, or pork. Or, you could use it as a garnish to pita
pocket sandwiches filled with thinly sliced roasted turkey or chicken.

MAKES ABOUT 4 CUPS

2
ripe (but not mushy) mangoes (see note)

3
ripe (but not mushy) kiwis

2
jalapeño peppers, minced
(see page 17)

2
plum tomatoes

3
tablespoons fresh lime juice

Kosher salt

⅓
cup chopped fresh cilantro

Peel mangoes, then cut the flesh away from the large flat seed. Cut flesh into ½-inch dice, and put into a medium nonreactive bowl. Peel kiwis and cut into ½-inch dice and add to bowl along with jalapeños. Halve tomatoes lengthwise and scoop out and discard seeds and membranes. Cut tomatoes into ½-inch dice and add to the bowl. Add lime juice and mix well. Taste and season with salt. (Salsa can be made 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate, and bring to room temperature 30 minutes before using.) At serving time, stir in the cilantro.

NOTE:
You can substitute 2 cups peeled, diced peaches or nectarines for the mangoes in this recipe.

QUICK ROASTED RED PEPPER RELISH

Purchased roasted red bell peppers work beautifully in this relish and are a great time saver. They
are chopped and sautéed with onions and garlic, then seasoned with vinegar, sugar, and spices.

This delicious condiment makes a fine garnish for turkey, beef, or lamb burgers.

MAKES ABOUT 2½ CUP

4
7-ounce jars roasted red bell peppers

3
tablespoons olive oil

1½
cups chopped yellow onions

1
tablespoon minced garlic

4½
tablespoons cider vinegar

3
tablespoons sugar

¼
teaspoon dry mustard

¼
teaspoon cayenne pepper

Salt

Rinse, drain, and pat roasted bell peppers dry, then chop them. Heat oil in a large, heavy skillet over medium-high heat until hot. Add bell peppers and sauté, stirring, 2 minutes. Add onions and garlic, and cook, stirring, until onions are soft, 3 to 5 minutes.

Whisk vinegar and sugar together in a small bowl and add to pepper and onion mixture in the skillet. Stir in mustard, cayenne, and ¼ teaspoon salt. Continue cooking, stirring often, until all the liquid has evaporated, about 5 minutes more. Cool to room temperature. Taste and season with more salt, if needed. (The relish can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)