The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (36 page)

Served with fresh seasonal berries, this delectable frozen dessert is perfect to offer on days when
temperatures soar.

SERVES 6 TO 7; MAKES ABOUT 1½ QUARTS

4
cups heavy cream, divided

1⅓
cups sour cream

4
large egg yolks

¾
cup sugar

½
teaspoon vanilla extract

1
pint fresh blueberries, raspberries, or hulled strawberries (optional) To prepare crème fraîche, whisk together 2 cups of the heavy cream with sour cream in a nonreactive bowl. Leave uncovered at room temperature to thicken, 6 hours or overnight.

When ready to prepare ice cream, whisk together egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl until well blended. Mixture will be quite thick.

Heat remaining 2 cups heavy cream in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium heat until scalded. (Small bubbles will form around the edge of the pan.) Very slowly, whisk the scalded cream into the egg yolk mixture, then return this mixture to the saucepan and place over medium heat. Stir constantly until mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes.

Pour the egg and cream mixture back into the mixing bowl and whisk in the crème fraîche and vanilla. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

Place the chilled mixture in an ice-cream machine and process according to manufacturer’s directions. Freeze resulting ice cream until needed. If ice cream is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15 minutes to soften slightly before serving.

Serve scoops of the ice cream with a garnish of fresh berries, if desired.

JANE HORNUNG’S CHOCOLATE

CARDAMOM ICE CREAM

A student, who overheard me raving about my new ice-cream maker, shared her recipe for
chocolate ice cream scented with crushed cardamom seeds. I was surprised at how exquisitely this
aromatic spice complements the flavor of chocolate. When combined, the two ingredients produce
a refreshing taste redolent of mint.

SERVES 4 TO 5; MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

2
cups heavy cream

2
cups whole milk

⅓
cup sugar

1
teaspoon ground cardamom (see note)

½
vanilla bean (cut the bean in half crosswise so that all the pulp remains enclosed in the pod)
8
ounces semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

Combine cream, milk, sugar, cardamom, and vanilla bean in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir to dissolve sugar and bring mixture to a simmer. Remove and let steep 10

minutes. Remove vanilla bean and split lengthwise with a paring knife. Then scrape out the pulp and seeds and add back to the cream mixture. Add chocolate and whisk or stir until it melts. If it doesn’t melt completely, place pan over very low heat and stir until chocolate has dissolved. If some flecks of chocolate remain, that is okay. Refrigerate an hour or longer until chilled.

Place the chilled mixture in an ice-cream machine and process according to manufacturer’s directions. Freeze resulting ice cream until needed. If ice cream is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15 minutes to soften slightly before serving.

NOTE:
Ground cardamom should have a fragrant, assertive aroma. If it doesn’t, it is probably old and should be replaced.

COCONUT ICE CREAM

This homemade ice cream, prepared with coconut milk and cream, is rich and smooth and could
easily be served unadorned. However, if you want to add some embellishments, sprinkle scoops
with a garnish of toasted coconut flakes or drizzle them with warm Extra-Rich Chocolate Sauce
(page 333)
.

SERVES 4 TO 5; MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

1½
cups coconut milk (not cream of coconut)

1½
cups heavy cream

6
large egg yolks

½
cup sugar

Toasted coconut
(optional; see page 15)

Heat coconut milk and cream in a medium, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat until scalded.

(Small bubbles will form around the edge of the pan.) Remove from heat and set aside.

Whisk egg yolks in a large bowl until blended. Gradually whisk in sugar until very smooth. Very slowly, whisk the warm cream mixture into the egg yolks until blended. Return this mixture to the saucepan, and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it thickens and coats the back of a spoon, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a mixing bowl and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

Place the chilled mixture in an ice-cream machine, and process according to manufacturer’s instructions. Freeze resulting ice cream until needed. If ice cream is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15 minutes to soften slightly before serving.

To serve, scoop ice cream into bowls and sprinkle with toasted coconut, if desired.

The ice-cream cone was invented in 1904 at the St. Louis World’s Fair when an ice-cream vendor, who ran out of paper cups, is said to have asked a waffle booth to make
some thin waffles he could roll up to hold his ice cream.

ALMOND PRALINE ICE CREAM ALMOND

PRALINE

Praline is a brittle mixture made with nuts and caramelized sugar. It can be broken into chunky
pieces or ground and used as a powder. Almond praline powder is folded into this rich vanilla ice
cream immediately after it is churned. The glistening little golden flecks add a delicious crunch to
the velvety smooth ice cream.

SERVES 4 TO 5; MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

ALMOND PRALINE

Vegetable oil for greasing baking sheet

1
cup blanched, slivered almonds

1
cup sugar

ICE CREAM

8
large egg yolks

¾
cup sugar

3
cups heavy cream

1
cup whole milk

1
teaspoon vanilla extract

TO MAKE ALMOND PRALINE:
Grease a rimmed baking sheet with oil and set aside. Combine almonds and sugar in a medium saucepan over medium heat, and stir constantly until sugar dissolves.

Continue cooking until sugar caramelizes and turns a golden brown, only a few minutes more.

Carefully pour the hot mixture onto the oiled baking sheet. Spread evenly with an oiled metal spatula or knife. Cool completely. Break hardened caramel into chunks and place in a food processor.

Process, pulsing, until mixture becomes a very coarse powder. Remove and store in an airtight container in refrigerator. (Praline powder can be made 1 week ahead.)

TO MAKE ICE CREAM:
Whisk egg yolks and sugar in a medium bowl until well blended. Mixture will be quite thick. Heat cream and milk in a medium saucepan over medium heat until scalded.

(Small bubbles will form around the edge of the pan.) Very slowly, whisk cream into the egg yolk mixture. Return this mixture to the saucepan, and cook over medium heat. Stir constantly until mixture thickens and coats the back of a spoon, about 5 minutes. Pour mixture back into the bowl and whisk in vanilla. Refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

Place chilled mixture in an ice-cream machine and process according to manufacturer’s directions. When almost done, but while ice cream is still soft, remove from ice cream machine and stir in all but ¼ cup praline powder. Freeze resulting ice cream until needed. If ice cream is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15 minutes to soften slightly before serving.

Serve scoops of the ice cream sprinkled with remaining praline powder.

PINK GRAPEFRUIT SORBET

This tart, soothing sorbet, made with fresh grapefruit juice, makes a light dessert to offer after a
rich meal. Serve scoops of this icy cold sherbet with fresh strawberries, blueberries, or a
combination of both.

SERVES 3 TO 4; MAKES ABOUT 1½ PINTS

1
cup sugar

1½
cups fresh or bottled pink grapefruit juice (not from concentrate)

2
tablespoons fresh lemon juice

Fresh mint sprigs

Combine sugar and 1 cup water in a medium saucepan over medium-high heat. Stir until sugar dissolves, then simmer 5 minutes. Cool, then cover and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

Combine the cooled sugar syrup, grapefruit juice, and lemon juice in an ice-cream machine and process according to manufacturer’s directions. Freeze resulting sorbet until needed. If sorbet is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15 minutes to soften slightly before serving.

Serve scoops of the sorbet in wine glasses and garnish with mint sprigs.

BANANA DAIQUIRI SORBET

Unlike most sorbets, this one is made without assembling a sugar syrup. The ingredients are
blended in a food processor, then added to an ice-cream machine. Citrus accents of orange and
lemon and a splash of rum complement this icy cold banana ice.

SERVES 4 TO 5; MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

3
ripe bananas

1
cup sugar

2/3
cup fresh orange juice (about 2 oranges)

½
cup fresh lemon juice (2 to 3 lemons)

¼
cup dark rum

Peel bananas and cut 1 of them into ½-inch dice. Combine remaining 2 bananas in the bowl of a food processor, and add sugar, orange juice, and lemon juice. Process, pulsing, until mixture is smooth. Remove and place in a medium bowl. Stir in ¾ cup water, rum, and diced banana.

Refrigerate mixture until chilled.

Place chilled mixture in an ice-cream machine and process according to manufacturer’s directions. Freeze resulting sorbet until needed. If sorbet is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15 minutes to soften slightly before serving.

FRESH STRAWBERRY SORBET

The taste of fresh strawberries shines through in this icy cold, hot pink sorbet. Both lemon and
orange juices accentuate the flavor of the berries. Scoops of the sorbet can be served alone or
with a sprinkling of strawberries.

SERVES 4 TO 5; MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART

1
cup sugar

1
quart fresh strawberries, hulled

⅓
cup fresh orange juice (about 1 orange)

⅓
cup fresh lemon juice (about 1 lemon)

Combine 2 cups water and the sugar in a medium saucepan over high heat. Stir just until sugar is dissolved. Bring mixture to a boil and boil 5 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl and refrigerate until chilled, at least 1 hour.

Purée strawberries in small quantities in a food processor or blender until all the berries have been puréed. Add puréed berries to the cooled sugar syrup along with the orange and lemon juices.

Stir to mix well.

Process mixture in an ice-cream machine according to manufacturer’s instructions. Freeze resulting sorbet until needed. If sorbet is frozen solid, transfer it from freezer to refrigerator for 15

minutes to soften slightly before serving.

California produces enough strawberries in a single year that, laid berry to berry, there
would be enough to wrap around the world 15 times.

HONEY PEACH SUNDAES

Peaches and cream are a dessert match made in heaven. Add a honey caramel sauce to this duo
and the resulting confection is even more enticing. For these sundaes, scoops of vanilla ice cream
are topped with warm caramel sauce and sliced peaches. Serve the sundaes as a refreshing finale
at a barbecue or offer them as the pièce de résistance along with iced coffee at a backyard dessert
party.

SERVES 6

2/3
cup sugar

3
tablespoons honey

2½
tablespoons fresh lemon juice

8
medium (about 2 pounds) yellow peaches, ripe but not too soft

1
quart best-quality vanilla ice cream (see note)

½
cup toasted walnuts, chopped
(see page 15)

Fresh mint sprigs for garnish

Combine sugar, honey, and lemon juice in a medium saucepan over medium heat and stir until sugar dissolves. Continue to cook, without stirring, until mixture caramelizes and becomes a rich, golden brown, about 2 minutes. (If not using sauce immediately, remove from heat and let cool. Leave at room temperature for up to 3 hours. The sauce will thicken and harden. Reheat, stirring over very low heat until hot.)

When ready to serve, peel peaches, halve them, and slice into ½-inch-thick wedges and place in a medium bowl. Add peaches and any juices collected in the bowl to the warm caramel honey sauce, and cook 1 to 2 minutes more just to warm fruit. Remove from heat.

Place 2 large scoops of ice cream in each of 6 dessert bowls or compotes. Ladle a generous amount of sauce and peaches over ice cream in each dish. Garnish each serving with a sprinkle of chopped nuts and a mint sprig. Serve immediately.

NOTE:
You can substitute vanilla frozen yogurt for the ice cream in this recipe.

The slight acidity of the yogurt works well with the sweet caramel sauce.

RUM CARAMEL PECAN SUNDAES

Scoops of vanilla ice cream coated with warm homemade caramel sauce and sprinkled with
toasted pecans are an irresistible treat. The sauce can be made several days ahead so that the
sundaes take only minutes to assemble.

SERVES 4

Best Ever Caramel Sauce
(page 332)

2
tablespoons dark rum

1
quart best-quality vanilla ice cream or Burnt-Sugar Vanilla Ice Cream
(page 291)

¾
cup pecan halves, toasted and coarsely chopped
(see page 15)

Stir caramel sauce in a small saucepan over medium heat until hot. Remove and whisk in rum.

Place a generous scoop of ice cream in each of 4 sundae glasses or in wide-mouthed wine glasses. Drizzle each with 1 tablespoon of the warm sauce and sprinkle with 1 tablespoon of pecans.

Make 2 more layers in each glass. If desired, drizzle the sundaes with any extra caramel sauce. Serve immediately.