The Greek Islands (36 page)

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Authors: Lawrence Durrell

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The Kingfisher (
Alcedo atthis
), the Hoopoe (
Upupa epops
)
and the Bee-eater (
Merops apiaster
) are among the more striking and rarer birds. The drabber Nightingale (
Luscinia
megarhynchos
) is plentiful in gardens and coppices and can sometimes be heard singing in full midday.

Several species of Gulls, including the Mediterranean Gull (
Larus melanocephalus
) and the Black-headed Gull (
L.
ridibundus
) fly around the islands. The Pigeons, Doves, Swallows, and Swifts are well represented. Among the smaller birds, the
Goldfinch
(
Carduelis carduelis
) flies in small flocks, especially in summer when the various thistles are seeding.

The migrant species include the White Pelican (
Pelecanus
onocrotalus
), the Bittern (
Botaurus stellaris
), the Great White Egret (
Egretta alba
), the Grey and the Purple Heron (
Ardea
cinerea
and
A. purpurea
), the Mallard (
Anas platyrhynchos
), the Moorhen (
Gallinula chloropus
), the Coot (
Fulica atra
), the Woodcock (
Scolopax rusticola
) and the Snipe (
Gallinago gallinago
). These species, with the exception of the Coot, are becoming rarer as their habitats are given over to cultivation and the game-birds are more hunted.

Reptiles
and
Amphibians
are plentiful on all the islands except the smallest. The only venomous snake is the Horned Viper (
Vipera ammodytes meridionalis
). The harmless snakes are far more common and include the water-loving Ringed Snake and Tesselated Snake (
Natrix natrix
and
N. tesselata
); also the
beautiful
Leopard Snake (
Elaphe situla
) with its striking red and black markings. These last three snakes are of a peaceful
disposition
. But there is another serpent, whose bad temper has earned it the name of the Angry Snake (
Coluber viridi-flavus
carbonarius
), which will attack even without provocation and sometimes hang on bulldog-like after biting. Though it is not poisonous, it is much feared by the peasantry who call it
Saïta
or
Saïtià
(Javelin) as it will sometimes dart out at its victim from a bush or tree.

Among the Lizards, the Agama Lizard (
Agamo stellio
) is the most striking as, with its large size – up to 30 cm, black and white coloration, and sharply pointed scales, it puts one in mind of a miniature dinosaur. The Disc-fingered Gecko (
Hemidactylus turcicus
) has adhesive discs on its fingers which allow it to run across smooth walls inside houses which it often enters in pursuit of winged insects. It is quite harmless, but held in superstitious dread by the peasants who call it
Molintiri
(Defiler).

The islands harbour the ‘Greek’ Land Tortoise (
Testudo
hermanni
) and two freshwater terrapins, the European Pond Tortoise (
Emys orbicularis
) and the rarer Caspian Terrapin (
Clemys caspica
). The False Hawksbill Turtle (
Caretta caretta
), which reaches a length of 1 metre, is sometimes seen, especially in the Ionian Sea.

Amphibians
are plentiful in the larger well-watered islands. Among these are the Greek Newt (
Trituris vulgaris graeca
), the Common Toad (
Bufo bufo
) and the Green Toad (
B. viridis
); the male of the latter has a long musical croak resembling the trill of a bird. Frogs include the Agile Frog (
Rana dalmatina
), the Greek Frog (
Rana graeca
) and the Marsh Frog (
Rana
ridibunda
). The latter is the species celebrated by Aristophanes in his comedy
The Frogs
, and its loud call of ‘kek-kek-kek-
croax-croax
’ proves that the ancient playwright was a good observer of Nature. The beautiful little Tree Frog (
Hyla arborea
), with its polished emerald-green back and snow-white belly, is common, especially in gardens and in orchards. It lives during most of the summer among the shiny leaves of Orange and Lemon Trees and climbs easily by means of the adhesive discs on its palms and toes. In autumn it returns to some pond or pool for mating and laying its eggs, which develop into tadpoles as with other frogs.

Owing to the small size of their rivers, the islands are poor in
freshwater fish. Minnow, Dace and Roach represented by
Leucaspius stymphalicus, Leuciscus
peloponensis
and
Rutilus
pleurobipunctatus
. Perhaps the commonest fish is the Central American Mosquito-fish (
Gambusia affinis
) which was
introduced
before and after World War II to help combat malaria by destroying the aquatic Mosquito-larvae. It has spread itself to many of the streams, ponds and marshes. The Common Eel (
Anguilla anguilla
) inhabits some of the larger ponds and streams.

The
Invertebrates
, Insects, Spiders, Crustacea, etc., are those of the south-eastern European region. The most spectacular of the Insects is the Oleander Hawkmoth (
Daphnis nerii
) which has a wing span of 12 cm and a conspicuous green colour marbled with white and pink. Its huge green caterpillar is equally striking and will raise the front end of its body in a menacing manner when startled.

The islands’ mountain streamlets contain a freshwater Crab;
Potamon fluviatilis
for the Ionian Islands and
Potamon potamios
for those in the Aegean.

*

A few words may be said finally about a phenomenon which can be observed in the Greek seas during the summer months, especially August and September. This is a
phosphorescent sea,
which seems to be brightest when a thunderstorm is
impending
. An evening swim is then an experience that will long be remembered as a stream of green sparks seems to be swirling past one’s body. The cause of this display is
Noctiluca miliaris
, a minute unicellular animalcule which is only just visible to the naked eye. Under the microscope this organism is shaped rather like a tiny cherry, the stalk being a short flagellum with which it propels itself through the water.

  • Acanthus pattern, origins of
    1
  • Achilles
    1
  • Actium, Battle of
    1
    ,
    2
  • Aegina
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ,
    5
    ;
    • destruction of
      1
  • Aeolia
    (Venezis)
    1
  • Aeschylus
    1
  • Aesculapion, the (at Cos)
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
  • Aesculapius
    1
    ,
    2
  • Aetos, Mount (Black Mountain)
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
  • Agnonda
    1
  • Akrivie Phragopoula
    (Gobineau)
    1
  • Albania
    1
    ,
    2
  • Alcaeus
    1
  • Alexander the Great
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
  • Alexandria
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Alonnessus
    1
  • Amanades
    1
  • Amazons
    1
    ,
    2
  • Amorgos
    1
  • Amphitrite
    1
  • Anargyros, College of
    1
  • Anchises
    1
  • Andromachos of Crete
    1
  • Andros (island)
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ;
    • (town)
      1
  • Anticythera
    1
  • Antigonus
    1
  • Antiope
    1
  • Antipaxos
    1
  • Antissa
    1
  • Antony, Mark
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
  • Apelles
    1
  • Aphaia, temple of (Aegina)
    1
    ,
    2
  • Aphrodite
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ,
    5
    ;
    • birthplace of
      1
  • Apocalypse, The
    1
    ,
    2
  • Apollo: (Delian)
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ;
    • birth of
      1
      ;
    • temple of
      1
      ;
    • (Dorian)
      1
  • Apollodorus
    1
  • Apollo Kerneies, temple of
    1
  • Apollo Kourotrophos
    1
  • Apollona
    1
  • Apollonius
    1
  • Apollo Panionic, temple of
    1
  • Argostoli, Gulf of
    1
  • Ariadne
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Arion
    1
  • Aristarchus
    1
  • Aristodamos
    1
  • Aristotle
    1
    ,
    2
  • Artemidoros
    1
  • Artemis
    1
  • Asfendiou
    1
  • Asproti
    1
  • Assos
    1
  • Astipalea
    1
  • Astypalea
    1
    ,
    2
  • Atabyros, Mount
    1
    ,
    2
  • Athena
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Athenaios
    1
  • Athos, Mount
    1
    ,
    2
  • Athos peninsula, monasteries on
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Atlantis
    1
  • Bacchus (islet)
    1
  • Barbarossa, Khair-ed-Din
    1
  • Bellerophon
    1
  • Bent, Theodore
    1
  • Bouboulina
    1
  • Bowra, C. M.
    1
  • Bradford, Ernle
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ,
    5
    ,
    6
    ,
    7
  • Brindisi
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Bronze Age
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Brooke, Rupert
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Brutus
    1
  • Bull cult (Crete)
    1
    ,
    2
  • Butcher’s Dance, the (
    Hasapiko
    )
    1
  • Butterflies, Valley of the (Rhodes)
    1
  • Byron, Lord
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ,
    5
    ,
    6
    ,
    7
    ,
    8
  • Byzantine chapel (Samos)
    1
  • Cabeiri, the
    1
    ,
    2
  • Caesar, Julius
    1
    ,
    2
  • Calavria
    1
  • Callimachus
    1
  • Callimorpha hera L
    1
  • Callithea
    1
    ,
    2
  • Calvos, Andreas
    1
  • Calymnos
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ;
    • sponge industry of
      1
  • Cameirus
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
  • Campos, the (Chios)
    1
  • Carpathos
    1
  • Carrack, The Grand
    1
  • Cartwright, Joseph
    1
  • Casos
    1
  • Cassiopi
    1
  • Cassius
    1
    ,
    2
  • Castelorizo
    1
    ,
    2
  • Cavafy, C. P.
    1
  • Cephalonia
    1
    ,
    2
  • Cerceteus, Mount
    1
    ,
    2
  • Chanea
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ,
    5
    ,
    6
  • Chaos (Sicily)
    1
  • Chares of Lindos
    1
  • Chios
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ;
    • as birthplace of Homer
      1
      ;
    • cultivation of mastic plant
      1
  • Chora
    1
  • Chronos
    1
    ,
    2
  • Cicero
    1
    ,
    2
  • Cisterns, water
    1
  • Clara Rodos
    1
  • Clement of Alexandria
    1
  • Cleobolus
    1
  • Cleon
    1
  • Cleopatra
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Codex Porphyrius
    1
  • Colonna, Cape
    1
  • Colossus of Maroussi
    (Miller)
    1
  • Colossus of Rhodes, the
    1
  • Columns, temple
    1
  • Comnenos, Emperor Alexis
    1
  • Companion Guide to the Greek Islands, The
    (Bradford)
    1
  • Corfu (island)
    1
    ,
    2
    ;
    • battles at
      1
      ;
    • British occupation of
      1
      ;
    • climate
      1
      ;
    • cricket
      1
      ;
    • dances
      1
      ;
    • fortress
      1
      ,
      2
      ;
    • French occupation of
      1
      ,
      2
      ,
      3
      ;
    • history of
      1
      ;
    • museum
      1
      ;
    • processions
      1
      ;
    • saint of
      see
      St Spiridion;
    • town
      1
      ;
    • trees
      1
      ;
    • Turkish invasion of
      1
      ;
    • Venetian rule in
      1
  • Corinthian column
    1
    ,
    2
  • Cos
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Cretans: characteristics of
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
    ,
    5
    ,
    6
    ,
    7
  • Crete
    1
    ;
    • birthplace of Zeus
      1
      ;
    • history
      1
      ,
      2
      ;
    • homosexuality in
      1
      ;
    • literature of
      1
      ;
    • mythology
      see
      Double axe, Labyrinth, Minos,
      Minotaur; poetry
      1
      ;
    • trees
      1
      ;
    • see also under
      Knossos, Phaestos, Heracleion etc.
  • Cricket (in Corfu)
    1
  • Cycnus
    1
  • Cynthus, Mount
    1
  • Cypress trees
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
  • Cyprus
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3
    ,
    4
  • Cysthine
    1
  • Cythera
    1
    ,
    2
    ,
    3

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