The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (17 page)
Authors: Julie Gabriel
Tags: #ebook, #book
Granted, it’s impossible to follow the strict guidelines developed for the food industry when you make a shampoo or lipstick. The current list of allowed synthetic ingredients under the U.S. national organic standards was developed specifically for food products. Some beauty products, such as body oils and balms, can meet those food-grade standards, but certain types of skin care and hair care products cannot physically be made without additional synthetic ingredients. Nearly all sunscreens rely on titanium dioxide or zinc oxide to block the sun, and most peptides and vitamins are synthetic. But any organic consumer worth her olive oil body scrub has the right to expect that ingredients in products labeled “organic” are made from organic, not conventional, agriculture, are not hydrogenated or sulfated, and are free from synthetic petrochemical preservatives.
Green or Greenwashed?
Organic is a hot word in the cosmetic business. Manufacturers constantly look for possibilities of legally placing the word “organic” on the label in any way they can. How about “Totally Organic Experience,” a famous slogan of Herbal Essences body and hair products, which contain nonorganic fruit juices and herbal extracts heavily diluted with sodium lauryl and laureth sulfates, cocamideMEA, synthetic fragrances, and coal tar–derived dyes?
Using a drop of organic essential oil to justify the word “organic” on the label is the most common greenwashing technique in the cosmetic industry. Beauty greenwashers usually spend money on promoting themselves as environmentally friendly or green rather than spending resources on formulating toxin-free, environmentally sound products. To jump on the green bandwagon, beauty greenwashers usually change the name or label of a product to give the feeling of nature, for example, by putting an image of a green meadow on a bottle of harmful chemicals or babies playing on a green lawn on a packet of PEG-loaded baby wipes.
Here are the most popular claims that appear on greenwashed beauty products. Let’s take a look to see how these claims damage the reputation of all things organic, natural, and ecofriendly.
• Made with organic essential oils
• Contains organic ingredients
• Made with nontoxic ingredients
• 100 percent natural
• Essentially nontoxic
• Earth-friendly
• Environmentally safer
None of these claims ensures that the product is safe and pure. The greenwashed product is just as “organic” as “hypoallergenic” eye cream loaded with preservatives and petrochemical emollients.
Greenwashing ruins the whole green living idea. Environmentally concerned consumers are tricked into buying products they think are good for them and safe for the planet. Green newbies instantly lose trust in organic beauty since it seems to offer no differences. By spending money on greenwashed shampoos or baby products, consumers unwittingly support clever marketers who are hiding behind smart packaging design. When greenwashing is exposed, the whole organic beauty industry suffers a blow. Why should we believe all those important-looking logos and seals if they mean so little? I can’t help but question whether my favorite organic products are that pure and natural, considering the newest reports about carcinogens found in “green” bestsellers.
No matter how pure and natural the packaging looks or how promising and ecoconscious the promise sounds, always spot the beauty greenwasher by looking at the ingredients list. It only takes a minute! Many good cosmetic companies are helpful enough to state the percentage of organic ingredients on a label. If they don’t, study the ingredients list, where some manufacturers make an extra effort to list which ingredients were derived from organic sources and which were synthesized. Ideally, you want to see organically derived ingredients listed closer to the beginning of the ingredients list rather than at the end of the list. Remember, some ingredients, such as water, cannot be organic, and this is usually reflected on a product label. If you are in doubt, write to the company and ask about the certification of ingredients claiming to be organic. Companies with nothing to hide should be easy to reach and ready to help.
Don’t get me wrong: as a consumer, I would rather cheer any effort to take green to the mainstream than support those who churn out yet another brew of petrochemicals and carcinogenic fragrances to “naturally” care for our skin and hair. And while I can sometimes give up and buy a “natural” mascara formulated with parabens, I do not tolerate any harmful synthetics in baby products. Neither should you. Babies cannot vote for green with their dollar, but you can.
DON’T BE A VICTIMOF
GREEN BEAUTY MISINFORMATION
Here are some simple steps to help avoid green scams:
Check the ingredients list.
If the “organic” shampoo is made of sodium laureth sulfate, PEGs, and contains parabens and artificial fragrances, then it’s definitely not good for you, no matter how many organic essential oils were used to justify the “organic” claim. There are very few companies that make 100 percent organic beauty products, and even if they use only certified organic plant extracts and herbs, it’s impossible to organically certify water, vitamins, and minerals. Still, whenever you buy an organic beauty product, double-check the ingredients list for synthetic chemicals. You will be surprised to find them in many forms, often hiding behind perfectly natural names and neutral-sounding abbreviations. Nobody should get away with false claims.
Are the green claims relevant?
Sometimes a beauty product may display an environmental certification mark to show that this manufacturer powers its facilities with renewable energy, which is clearly a beneficial environmental feature. However, it doesn’t make the ingredients any cleaner or healthier. You could easily be misled by the certification mark to believe that the product is safer or uses safer ingredients than its competitors, when that may not be true.
Does the packaging back up its claims or green theme?
Try to see more than the natural-looking design of the bottle. “See if the packaging is made of recycled plastic or glass, and if the instructions are printed on recycled paper,” recommends Morris Shriftman, one of the founders of Avalon Organics, now a consultant with the brand. “Many companies replant trees that were used in packaging, or otherwise restore the forests.” So when you see a new “green” product hitting store shelves, wait a second and ask: does it ring true and sound authentic, or is it obviously hype? Be a vigilant shopper—your own scrutiny of green marketing claims must be one more item to add to your shopping list.
Do the benefits outweigh the negatives?
The company may use organic aloe vera or donate a percentage of their profits to eco-friendly charities, but this doesn’t make paraben preservatives, silicones, mineral oil, and other synthetic ingredients in a greenwashed product any less toxic. A little selfishness won’t hurt: always consider if the product makes you or your children healthier, and only then start worrying about global warming. Make the planet healthier by caring about your own health first.
Going GreenWithout Going Broke
The idea of organic beauty products as dusty bottles sitting on the lower shelves of health food stores is very outdated. Just because the treatment is labeled as natural or organic doesn’t mean that it has been cooked in a country kitchen. Organic creams today can create an adrenaline rush similar to a pair of designer jeans—and sometimes cost just as much.
Some organic lines were created with pure luxury in mind. JoWood, the wife of Ron Wood, the guitarist for the Rolling Stones, developed her line of organic fragrances after years of blending her own oils. In 2005, she came up with an African-inspired line of fragrant oils and mists, Amka and Usiku, whose musky and woody scents captured the hearts (and noses) of celebrities worldwide. JoWood’s sumptuous creations are a far cry from humble vials of essential oils stocked by health food stores!
Not happy with the selection of organic beauty products in your local health store? Many department stores are becoming greener, stocking Origins, which launched an organic line of products, as well as semigreen Caudalie and Aveda. Some of them have phased out parabens or phe-noxyethanol preservatives but still have a few safe chemicals on their labels. Sephora carries Boscia, Korres, and REN seminatural brands.
Another excellent source of new organic skin care lines is eBay, where many spa and organic beauty manufacturers have online stores. If you are open for things new and exotic, you can find amazing natural and mineral-based skin care from Iceland, Hungary, and Israel, as well as herbs and clays for your homemade cosmetic creations. Always check the ingredients list or request one from the seller before buying anything. If you don’t have a budget to splash on Jurlique, which has magic potions as pricey as La Mer or La Prairie, I recommend trying simple, affordable, or homemade organic recipes that are tailored to suit every skin’s needs.
Another excellent source of new organic skin care lines is eBay, where many spa and organic beauty manufacturers have online stores.
Already thinking about giving your beauty stash a green makeover? If there’s one organic beauty product that you can afford to buy right now, buy a moisturizer. They sit on skin longest, and that’s why they should not contain anything toxic. Try a couple of samples and buy a bigger size of the one you especially like. Just make sure to use it diligently since it has to be used up according to its “best before” date. Next, buy a body moisturizer and/or sunscreen. In general, a moisturizer and a sunscreen should be the most expensive things in your beauty arsenal. For a toner, you can get away with rose water or witch hazel, or quickly whip up a simple concoction at home. The last thing to replace should be your facial cleanser. Cleansers should not be expensive to perform well. Ideally, you should adopt a double-cleansing technique using two cleansers (which we are going to discuss in the next chapter), but neither product needs to cost a fortune. For hair care, invest in a good conditioner and stick to an organic baby shampoo. Remember: you don’t need to buy more; you need to buy more of a good thing.
Keep in mind that when you switch to all-natural skin care, your skin may start misbehaving. This is because many natural beauty products contain multitasking essential oils that work as spot treatments, antiaging agents, and natural preservatives. Unless you become extremely allergic to one particular ingredient (such as coughing, sneezing, or eye watering), don’t quit unless it is absolutely critical. In a couple of days, your skin will adjust.
MAKING SENSE OF GREEN PRODUCT GUIDES
To help you decide which cosmetic product to choose, you will find a Green Product Guide in several chapters. These guides are split into three sections.
One leaf
is awarded to products that are generally clean and pure, but do contain a few questionable yet generally safe plant ingredients. The concerns are minimal: it could be an overwhelming smell of essential oils or plant extracts that aren’t suitable for everyone. Yet none of these products contain harmful chemicals.
Two leaves
indicate that a product is sensibly formulated, contains nothing toxic, and delivers its promises, yet there’s a little “but.” Maybe a strong fragrance, less-than-convenient packaging, or maybe the price was hard to justify. In any case, this is an excellent product to try and maybe fall in love with.
Three leaves
are given to the greenest beauty products. If you already recycle, reuse, drive a hydrogen car, and heat your home with solar energy, then you will go an extra mile or two for that biodynamic body oil. Solutions in this section are likely to be more time- and money-consuming than the rest. You will notice, however, that price point is rarely taken into consideration. All that matters is the efficiency of the product, the purity of the ingredients, and, as a result, the authenticity of the green claims.
How do I award the leaves to the products? To start with, I check the formulation and see how it relates to the latest scientific research about synthetic and natural cosmetic ingredients and their effects on skin. If a product contains an active ingredient, I usually check how much is actually in the product, and if it contains potent plant extracts and essential oils, I will mention the possible risks of allergic reactions or increased sun sensitivity.
To see whether a product lives up to its green claims, I take a look at other products in the line. Do they contain questionable ingredients? Does the company make a genuine effort to educate its consumers? If it does, then the green claim is authentic, not hype.
I never base my recommendations simply on my own personal experience. I will not recommend something just because I like the way a cosmetic product feels on my skin. I understand that thousands of other women may feel differently about it. During my years of cosmetic reviewing and reporting, I have tried hundreds of products, but there’s nothing like the opinion of a highly independent and discerning panel of dedicated cosmetic junkies, also known as relatives, friends, colleagues, and readers of my websites who offered their help to evaluate and review cosmetic products for this book.
When you see a product guide, simply choose the product that suits your needs most or mix and match as you feel. Whether it’s a cure for limp locks or split nails, you will find green and safe solutions for all of your beauty needs.
Only products that fit these criteria are recommended for use in this book. Sadly, many brands that support the green movement and send a strong green message did not make it to the Green Product Guides. Such brands include The Body Shop, most products by Tom’s of Maine, Kiss My Face, Derma-E, Jason Naturals, Alba Botanica, and others. As much as I respect the fact that they support fair trade, don’t test on animals, or don’t use colorants, their “organic” or “natural” products are still loaded with synthetic ingredients with questionable safety records. Some of these ingredients are further discussed in Chapter 5.
Fortunately, many brands reformulate their products to remove synthetic, potentially harmful ingredients, and I look forward to including more green creations in Green Product Guides in the future.