The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (20 page)

Caffeine

This plant alkaloid is found in coffee, tea, maté, and guarana. Known for its ability to dilate blood vessels and purge water from the body, caffeine is widely used in cellulite treatments and eye creams that may reduce puffiness. Recent studies found that caffeine can help protect you from skin cancer. In 2008, scientists of the State University of New Jersey found that topical application of caffeine inhibited the development of sunlight-induced skin cancer in animals, especially when combined with the consumption of green tea or caffeine. Even after intensive UV irradiation for several months, caffeine significantly reduced the formation of skin cancer and slowed cell mutations (Con-ney et al. 2008). Now, that’s a good reason to keep the java flowing!

Calendula
(Calendula officinalis)

This plant, also known as marigold, is a traditional herbal remedy praised for its antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties. Calendula extract is rich in beta-carotene, stearin, triterpinoids, flavonoids, and coumarin, as well as microelements. For this reason, calendula is frequently used in soothing and calming preparations, such as baby baths and creams, and after-sun products.

Camphor

This alkaloid, derived from the leaves of the camphor plant (
Cin-namomum
camphora
), is believed to have an antimicrobial action, which justifies its cosmetic use in topical acne treatments. In large quantities, camphor is poisonous when ingested and can cause seizures, confusion, and mood disorders (Agarwal, Malhotra 2008). According to current regulations, camphor can be used in concentrations of up to 11 percent in cosmetic products.

Carrot
(Daucus carota)

Carrot seed oil contains plant antioxidant carotenoids, particularly carotene and luteolin, as well as vitamin E. When applied topically in cosmetic products, carrot seed essential oil has shown to improve sebum production in dry skin, while the antioxidant properties of carotene help it protect skin from UV-induced damage.

Castor Oil

This plant seed oil is derived from castor beans (
Ricinus communis
). It is rich in ricinoleic, oleic, and linoleic acids. According to Cosmetic Ingredient Review, castor oil can absorb UV light and enhance penetration of other ingredients (CIR Expert Panel 2007). In cosmetics, castor oil is used as an emollient and surfactant in lipsticks, moisturizers, and soaps. Castor oil is also used to make antifungal and antibacterial ointments. Russian scientists reported that castor oil ointment “accelerates the healing and cleaning of infected skin wounds, and produces bacteriostatic action” (Spasov et al. 2007).

Chamomile
(Matricaria recutita)

This plant, also spelled as camomile, has been used for hundreds of years in cosmetics for its skin-healing properties. Essential oil from German chamomile is rich in terpene alcohol, also known as bisabolol, which is well-studied for its anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, and antioxidant effects. During an experimental study in 2008, scientists found that “chamomile extract in the form of rubbing oil had a good potential for acceleration of burn wound healing” (Jarrahi 2008). Please note, however, that chamomile in the form of tinctures, distillates, or essential oils is known to cause contact dermatitis, so if you have a family history of allergies, perform a patch test before adding chamomile to your do-it-yourself beauty products.

Chrysin

This natural flavonoid is derived from passionflower (
Passiflora incarnate
). In addition to its proven antioxidant abilities, chrysin demonstrated potential as a cancer preventive. In recent studies, chrysin even minimized metastatic spread of cancer after surgery (Beaumont et al. 2008). In green beauty preparations, chrysin appears to protect skin against UV-induced photodamage (Steerenberg et al. 1998). As an active ingredient in Hylexin and many other eye creams that claim to diminish under-eye circles, chrysin seems to activate the enzyme that dissolves the buildup of debris in the delicate eye area (Walle, Walle 2002).

Coconut
(Cocos nucifera)

Coconut oil is extracted as a fully organic product from fresh coconut flesh, and it is used as a highly effective emollient in face and body moisturizers, shampoos, and massage oils. Coconut butter, derived from copra, is one of the most stable butters used in cosmetics. Extra virgin coconut oil has been found to be as effective and safe as mineral oil when used as a barrier cream (Frosch et al. 2003).

Coenzyme Q10

This enzyme is a crucial molecule in the respiration of all living cells. Naturally present in human skin, this enzyme helps maintain healthy energy levels in skin cells, which may help improve the skin’s texture and elasticity, improve collagen production, and ward off free radicals. When taken internally, coenzyme Q10 can help prevent diabetes, cardiovascular disease, hypertension, congestive heart failure, age-related deterioration of brain function and vision, immune problems, as well as other age-related health problems (Janson 2006). It is known that levels of coenzyme Q10 diminish with age.

Coenzyme Q10 is a popular cosmetic ingredient, but many antiaging products contain too little of this chemical to make any difference on a cellular level. You may purchase pure synthetic coenzyme Q10, ubiquinone, as capsules or loose powder and use it to create potent yet gentle moisturizers and serums in the following proportion: 300 mg ubiquinone to 1 ounce of a base product. You can add ubiquinone to your sunscreens and moisturizers because it mixes better with oil-based cosmetic products. Coenzyme Q10 appears to synergize well with vitamin E. You may add up to 300 mg vitamin E to each ounce of your DIY preparation to boost effectiveness of coenzyme Q10.

Collagen

Moisturizers containing collagen and other proteins, such as keratin and elastin, claim to rejuvenate the skin by replenishing its essential proteins that diminish with age. However, the protein molecules are too large to penetrate the skin cells. Collagen may provide temporary relief from dry skin by working as an emollient. When proteins dry, they shrink slightly, stretching out some of the fine wrinkles and providing a temporary lift effect.

Corn
(Zea mays)

Cornstarch is used as a thickener in cosmetic products, and more recently as a replacement for talc in natural baby powders. Corn meal, or corn flour, is a cheap facial exfoliator that can be safely used in homemade cosmetic preparations.

Cucumber
(Cucumis sativus)

Cultivated for at least three thousand years in western Asia, cucumber is widely used in cosmetics thanks to the high presence of vitamin A, vitamin B6, thiamin, folate, pantothenic acid, magnesium, phosphorus, copper, and manganese, and may have soothing and mild bleaching agents. A small study found that cucumber is rich in phytonutrients and naturally occurring vitamin C (ascorbic acid) that may protect the skin from chemically induced skin cancers (Villaseñor et al. 2002).

DMAE

Also known by its chemical name, dimethylaminoethanol, this substance is naturally present in human bodies in small amounts, particularly in nerve tissues. It stimulates production of the neurotransmitter choline, which is involved in cell membrane biosynthesis. Synthetic dimethylaminoethanol, an industrial compound commonly used as a paint remover and an epoxy resin curing agent, gained popularity in the cosmetic industry after the discovery that it produces an instant face-lift effect. Topical application of DMAE causes quick and visible swelling of fibroblasts, integral parts of skin cells. Swollen skin cells make the skin look smoother, and for this reason DMAE appears in many antiwrinkle treatments.

But such remarkable results come at a price. A recent study indicates that synthetic DMAE applied topically may pathologically alter the functioning of skin cells. Canadian researchers found that skin cells treated with DMAE died up to 25 percent slower (Morrisette et al. 2006). Skin cells “stop dividing, they stop secreting, and after 24 hours a certain proportion of them die,” according to Dr. Francois Marceau of the Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Quebec in Canada. “I don’t want to scare people. The risk is probably not very big, but in my opinion it hasn’t been measured accurately.”

If, despite the risks, you choose to use DMAE in your DIY skin preparations, you should add it in strictly recommended amounts to any anhydrous fluid, such as glycerin. DMAE can turn any cream containing water into liquid. Conventional DMAE preparations usually contain 1–2 percent of dimethylaminoethanol bitartrate.

Echinacea
(Echinacea angustifolia, Echinacea purpurea)

This plant is believed to stimulate the body’s immune system and protect against various infections. Echinacea extract is rich in caffeic acid derivative eicosanoids, or prostaglandins, anthocyanins, and phenols that have a strong antioxidant effect. What makes echinacea even more beneficial in green beauty applications is its ability to protect skin from UV damage. Italian scientists found that echinacea effectively wards off free radicals and recommended “topical use of extracts from Echinacea species for the prevention/treatment of photodamage of the skin by UVA/UVB radiation, in which oxidative stress plays a crucial role” (Facino et al. 1995). Echinacea is used in moisturizers and toners for easily irritated, acne-prone skin.

Eucalyptus
(Eucalyptus sideroxylon, Eucalyptus torquata)

An essential oil extracted from eucalyptus leaves contains powerful natural disinfectants effective against gram-positive bacteria and
Candida
albicans
. Eucalyptus essential oil also has insect repellent properties. For the first time in history, a December 2007 Egyptian study revealed that eucalyptus extracts and oils were toxic to cells of human breast adenocarcinoma (Ashour 2007), but more studies are needed to determine if eucalyptus has anicancer potential.

Evening Primrose
(Oenothera biennis)

Essential oil from the seeds of evening primrose contains a very rare omega-6 essential fatty acid, namely, gamma-linolenic acid. This is one of the body’s three sources of eicosanoids, which makes evening primrose oil potentially effective for autoimmune disorders, arthritis, and eczema. Gamma-linolenic acid also shows promise against breast cancer. When mixed with antioxidants and applied topically, evening primrose helped decrease UV-induced skin damage.

Ginger (
Zingiber officinale)

Aside from being the flavorful heavyweight of Chinese cuisine, ginger plays an important role in green beauty. An extract from ginger root, rich in gingerol, protein, minerals, vitamin A, and niacin, has mild analgesic and antibacterial properties. Ginger is commonly used in creams and hair conditioners for its ability to promote circulation in skin. Ginger also smells fantastic!

Goldenseal
(Hydrastis canadensis)

This herb is rich in the natural antiseptic compound isoquinoline. When applied topically, an extract from the whole herb has anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties, which make this herb useful in astringents and topical antiseptics for acne-prone skin.

Gotu Kola
(Centella asiatica)

An extract of this plant has been traditionally used to stimulate the healing of ulcers and skin injuries, and to strengthen skin capillaries. Calcium, iron, selenium, magnesium, betulic acid, beta-carotene, terpenes, saponins, and the antioxidant quercetin in gotu kola help maintain healthy connective tissue development, speed up the healing process, and improve the barrier functions of the top skin layer. Gotu kola is also a mild antiseptic and anti-inflammatory agent. All of the above more than justifies the use of
Centella asiatica
extract in natural skin care preparations.

Grape
(Vitis vinifera)

This is one of the strongest players in green beauty formulations. The skin of muscadine and red grapes is exceptionally rich in the antioxidant resveratrol, which has anticancer, antiviral, neuroprotective, antiaging, anti-inflammatory, and life-prolonging effects. Fresh grape skin contains about 50 to 100 micrograms of resveratrol per gram! It has been found that resveratrol may kill cancer cells and acts as a cancer preventive agent (Marel et al. 2008). Other antioxidants contained in grape skin include ellagic acid, myricetin, quercetin, and kaempferol, all with excellent, health-benefiting track records. Proanthocyanidins found in grape skin help preserve collagen and elastin in skin, reduce facial swelling after cosmetic surgery, and can protect from many types of cancer, including skin cancer, according to recent research (Nandakumar 2008; Katiyar 2008). Resveratrol and proanthocyanidins are available in pure form and can be added to homemade cosmetic preparations. I always add grape proanthocyanidins to my sunscreens. They may give the lotion a purple tint, so use it sparingly. Grape seed oil and crushed grape seed are used in cosmetics, too, as an emollient and an exfoliant, respectively.

Grapefruit

This juicy fruit is rich in sulfur-containing terpene, the antioxidant flavonoid naringin, and a coumarin called begamottin, which is also found in bergamot. This substance is blamed for the negative interaction of grapefruit juice with some drugs. The pink fruit contains lycopene, a potent antioxidant. Grapefruit seed extract is commonly used as a natural preservative. But here’s a word of caution: a cohort study conducted by scientists at the University of Southern California in Los Angeles shows that eating grapefruit every day may increase the risk of developing breast cancer by almost a third. Scientists suggest that the fruit boosts the levels of estrogen, which in turn increases the risk of breast cancer among postmenopausal women (Monroe et al. 2007). Until science knows more, it may be wise to refrain from frequent consumption of grapefruit in any form.

Green Tea
(Camellia sinensis)

Infusions or extracts of green tea leaves have a plethora of health benefits. Green tea is rich in antioxidants, particularly polyphenols and catechins, which have a wide array of anti-inflammatory, adaptogenic, anticarcinogenic, and antiseptic properties. L-Theanine, a chemical found in green tea, is known to soothe and calm the skin, while caffeine and epigallocatechin gallate, the most abundant catechin in green tea, helps protect the skin from UV radiation-induced damage and skin cancer formation by stimulating the production of interleukins that repair the skin’s DNA. In studies, when green tea was ingested and applied topically, scientists noticed that it also helped diminish damage to the immune system by UV radiation (Katiyar et al. 2007; Yusuf et al. 2007; Schwarz et al. 2008).