The Green Beauty Guide: Your Essential Resource to Organic and Natural Skin Care, Hair Care, Makeup, and Fragrances (52 page)

Making Your Own Fragrance Blends

To create your own perfume, you only need water, a spirit, and the essential oil blend of your choice. Essential oils can also be diluted by means of neutral-smelling lipids such as jojoba or coconut oil and then blended with wax to create a solid perfume. You’ll also need a pipette and small, dark glass bottles for storing your fragrance creations.

The most concentrated perfume extract should contain 20 to 40 percent fragrant oils, the rest being water and spirit mix or neutral oil. Perfume oils should always be diluted because undiluted oils contain high concentrations of volatile components and will likely cause irritation if applied directly to the skin. Please note that many essential oils can adversely interact with drugs. I would not recommend using any fragrances during pregnancy or when breast-feeding.

Nature has provided us with an abundance of beautiful scents—rose, jasmine, ylang-ylang, tea rose, sandalwood, and chamomile, to name a few, all are available as essential oils. Get creative, save money, and make your own earth-friendly perfumes!

You can blend your favorite essential oils to create your signature scent, but don’t use more than eight drops of essential oil and fragrant extracts of your choice per ounce beeswax and jojoba oil. Try one or more of the following traditional essential oils that are believed to stimulate the senses and reportedly have aphrodisiac qualities: frankincense, black pepper, myrrh, cinnamon, vetiver, neroli, cardamom, cedarwood, ginger, violet leaf, nutmeg, hyacinth, benzoin, mimosa, and lemon verbena.

Green
Eau de
Toilette

1 ounce vodka

4–10 drops essential oil of your choice

2 tablespoons distilled water

Yield:
4 ounces

To practice, start with one or two essential oils and add more
as you gain experience. Don’t forget to carefully record the
amount of each essential oil you use so that you can re-create
or refine the formula.

1. Pour the vodka into a small glass measuring cup (that has a spout) and add the essential oil, stirring slowly until the oil is fully mixed in. Pour mixture into a small, dark, lidded bottle and leave in a dark place (such as a closet) for two days so that the oil can fully blend with the vodka.

2. Slowly add the distilled water, shaking well. Again, let the mixture sit for two days (or more, if you want a more potent mix). Now the perfume is ready! If you like, you can transfer it into a pretty spray bottle.

Here’s an even simpler version: add four drops of rosemary and lavender essential oils to two ounces organic grain vodka and two ounces purified water. You may add a few drops of glycerin to prevent the mix from drying your skin.

Carmelite
Water
(Eau de Carmes)

3 cups vodka

1 cup dried angelica leaves

1 cup dried lemon balm leaves

1 tablespoon coriander seeds, lightly crushed

1 nutmeg seed, grated

2 teaspoons whole cloves

3 cinnamon sticks, crushed

½ to 1 cup distilled water

Yield:
4 ounces

This unisex plant musk cologne was first made by Carmelite
monks in Paris in 1611 and was regarded as a highly effective
medicine for nervous headaches and neuralgia. The original
recipe includes over a dozen herbs, and the preparation,
no doubt, involved Gregorian chants and lengthy fermentation.
It is still sold in Germany as Klosterqu Melissen Geise.

1. Place all the spices and herbs in a glass jar, and pour the vodka over them. Seal and shake vigorously. Leave in a warm corner for up to ten days, shaking at least once a day.

2. Strain through unbleached muslin cloth, then siphon through an unbleached coffee filter into a dark glass bottle.

3. Dilute to the strength you want with the distilled water. You may substitute 5 drops citronella oil for the lemon balm leaves, but the fragrance will lack the spicy green scent of dried plants.

Queen of
Hungary
Water

2 cups organic grain vodka or grappa (grape spirit)

¹
/
4
cup dried rosemary

¹
/
4
cup dried lavender flowers

Peel of one unwaxed lemon

Peel of one unwaxed orange

1 tablespoon dried peppermint

4 drops bergamot essential oil

Yield:
5 ounces

This ancient perfume can be used as a facial splash and even
as a rubbing alcohol and hand wash. The original recipe published
in “Selectiora remedia multiplici usu comprobata, quae
inter secreta medica jure recenseas” (a 1656 text by John Prevot)
reads: “Take of aqua vitae, four times distilled, three
parts, and of the tops and flowers of rosemary two parts; put
these together in a close[d] vessel, let them stand in a gentle
heat fifty hours, and then distil them. Take one dram of this in
the morning once every week, either in your food or drink,
and let your face and diseased limb be washed with it every
morning.” Here’s a slightly modernized version of this recipe,
which I find more suitable for home preparation.

1. Mix the ingredients well in a glass jar (a mason jar is ideal), stir thoroughly, and allow to blend together in a warm, dark place for up to three days.

2. Strain mixture through a coffee filter and store in a sealed or airtight bottle in a cool, dark place. To use, dilute one part of the mixture with four parts distilled water.

Summer
Garden Splash

4 tablespoons chopped fresh tomato leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh geranium leaves

1 teaspoon fresh mint leaves

1 teaspoon grated lemon rind

1 cup vodka or witch hazel

1 teaspoon glycerin

Yield:
4 ounces

This delicious summer scent combines the exquisite fragrance
of geranium with the green, tangy aroma of tomato
leaves.

1. Place the leaves and the grated lemon rind in a glass jar with a lid. Pour the vodka or witch hazel and glycerin over the leaves and rind.

2. Cover and let mixture sit in a cool, dark place for at least two weeks.

3. Strain the liquid through a coffee filter to remove the debris. Pour into a spray bottle.

Aphrodisiac
Solid Perfume

1 ounce beeswax

2 tablespoons jojoba oil

2 drops jasmine essential oil

2 drops ylang-ylang essential oil

1 drop sandalwood essential oil

1 drop rose essential oil

2 drops vanilla extract

Yield:
5 ounces

This is a great way to wear perfume because the scent
envelopes you, creating subtle differences depending on
where you apply the balm. Remember not to exceed the recommended
amounts of essential oils, or you risk irritating
your skin.

1. Gently heat the beeswax and jojoba oil in a small enameled saucepan until the wax is melted.

2. Remove from heat and stir in the essential oils and vanilla.

3. Pour the mixture into a clean lip balm container, a vintage silver pillbox, or, if feeling extravagant, an Estée Lauder refillable facial powder container.

4. Let the mixture cool. To use, soften it with your fingers and apply the solid perfume to pulse points.

Preserving Your Natural Perfumes

You invested in a lavish botanical fragrance or created one of your own. Good for you! Here are some points to help you enjoy your natural fragrance as long as possible.

Keep in mind that fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of heat, light, and oxygen. To prolong the life of your fragrances, keep them away from sources of heat, and store them in dark cabinets where they will not be exposed to light. Perfumes are best preserved in their original packaging and should be stored in a fridge when not in use. An opened full bottle will keep the scent intact for up to a year, but as the level goes down, the oxygen will eventually alter the fragrant composition. Any dust, skin, and debris trapped in a bottle will degrade the quality of the perfume.

Keep in mind that fragrance compounds in perfumes will degrade or break down if improperly stored in the presence of heat, light, and oxygen.

All-Natural Deodorants

In the modern world, sweat odor has become unacceptable. While the faint, clean smell of sweat might be considered sexy, nothing is more repulsive than body odor reeking from underarms after a brisk walk in a heavy coat. Pharmacies and drugstores offer a huge selection of sweat-busters loaded with propylene glycol, aluminum, Triclosan, and synthetic fragrances. Fortunately, there are many green alternatives that work against sweat just as well.

First of all, I would not recommend using “rock” deodorants, which are based on aluminum salts. Unlike commercial antiperspirants, rock deodorant does not stop perspiration; it only eliminates odor due to the antibacterial action of potassium alum, a naturally occurring mineral with the chemical name aluminum potassium sulfate. It’s still unclear whether rock deodorants load the blood with the same amounts of aluminum as commercial antiperspirants, but if, like me, you prefer to err on the side of caution, you’ll want to explore other alternatives.

So, how can we stay fresh-smelling naturally? There are plenty of reliable odor-busters in natural food stores. Unlike antiperspirants, they do not block sweat glands, causing toxin buildup under the skin. Instead, they sanitize the underarm area and kill the odor-causing bacteria. Weleda, Desert Essence, Dr. Hauschka, Aubrey Organics, Neal’s Yard, and Origins make excellent green deodorants that can also double as room sprays, if the emergency arises.

Need a quick refresher on the run? According to natural health guru Dr. Andrew Weil, you could just rub alcohol under your arms because it acts as an antibacterial agent. A light dusting of baking soda deodorizes and keeps underarms dry. You can also prepare a deodorant at home. Try this easy recipe.

Green Spice
Deodorant

1 cup vodka

2 tablespoons witch hazel

3 drops tea tree essential oil

1 drop juniper essential oil

1 drop lemon essential oil

Yield:
4 ounces

Combine all the ingredients in a sterilized pump bottle. Shake before each use. This unisex blend can be used as an aftershave splash as well.

Green Bug Repellants

Organic living means avoiding pesticides in your food. So why would you want to spray them on your skin? Millions of people do just that in an attempt to keep mosquitoes and other bugs at bay. Ironically, the result of this spraying is that the pests themselves are becoming more resistant, and we are required to cover ourselves in ever-stronger chemicals to counteract them.

There are dozens of natural mosquito and bug repellant recipes. Some recommend boiling garlic in mineral oil and diluting it with dishwasher liquid—hardly green and hardly pleasant to use! Some people prefer to use plain rubbing alcohol or pure lavender oil, but I would not recommend indulging in lavender due to its potential hormone-disrupting effects. Neem (
Azadirachta indica
) oil blended with coconut or jojoba oil in equal proportions makes a traditional Indian insect repellant. Catnip, thyme, and amyris essential oils have been reported to be more effective in warding off mosquitoes and other nasties than DEET, the widely used chemical insect repellent (Zhu et al. 2006).

I have found that citronella, also known as lemongrass, naturally keeps the mosquitoes away when planted in the backyard. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency considers citronella oil a safe and natural insect repellent, a “biopesticide with a nontoxic mode of action.”What else can you wish for? You can rub citronella leaves and stalks directly on skin, and the effect lasts for about five hours.

Green Chai
Mosquito Guard

2 cups grain alcohol

20 drops eucalyptus essential oil

20 drops citronella essential oil

10 drops thyme essential oil

10 drops catnip essential oil

Yield:
4 ounces

The following recipe repels even the most fanatical bugs.

Blend all the ingredients in a spray bottle, shake well, and spray on exposed skin and clothing frequently, avoiding the eye area.

If you substitute grain alcohol for 1 ounce of grape seed or any other unscented oil, you can also use this blend in aroma lamps and burners when enjoying a quiet summer night on the patio.

Green Air Fresheners

Let’s be honest: do you really enjoy the smell of violets, or maybe you need that little synthetic plug-in to cover up the smell of not-so-clean curtains, the dog’s lack of toilet manners, another burned dinner, or even worse, stale tobacco smoke? There are many reasons you reach for that aerosol spray or scented candle. But the surprising fact is that most air fresheners may be making you ill. They work by emitting heavily scented chemicals that mask unwanted odors, using synthetic perfumes such as musk and other aromatic hydrocarbons to provide fragrance.

The toxic chemicals released by air fresheners—particularly those with pine, orange, and lemon scents—are known as volatile organic compounds (VOCs). These are well-proven toxins, many of which have been linked to a range of diseases and conditions when inhaled even in low concentrations over a long period of time. Some of these chemicals include benzene, a petroleum-derived chemical that causes cancer in animals and has been linked to leukemia; xylene, which has been linked to nausea and “sick building syndrome,” as well as liver and kidney damage; phenol, which can cause kidney, respiratory, neurological, and skin problems; naphthalene, a suspected carcinogen that has been linked to blood, kidney, and liver problems; and formaldehyde, a colorless, unstable gas. Inhaling formaldehyde fumes in even small amounts can cause coughing, a sore throat, and respiratory and eye problems. Formaldehyde has been linked to cancer, particularly in the nasal cavity.