The Knockoff Economy (44 page)

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Authors: Christopher Sprigman Kal Raustiala

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Edible paper, 71-72

Edison, Thomas, 15, 132, 167

Ed’s Lobster Bar, 57-58, 69, 201

eGullet Society, 73-74, 76, 82-83

El Bulli, 62, 190

Elbaz, Alber, 38
Elle,
25

Ellickson, Robert, 78

Emcee, 99

Encarta, 185

Encyclopedias, 185

Escoffier, Auguste, 59

Europe

databases in, 15, 162-66

fashion copying in, 30-31, 39

Exchange-traded funds, 159

Experience/experiential nature

of movie watching, 231

music as, 222-23

of restaurants, 85-86, 180

of theaters, 181-82

Facebook, 194-95, 227

Fads, 174-75

Fan fiction, 143

Fanning, Shawn, 216

Fashion brands

counterfeiting effects on, 199

diffusion lines’ effect on, 55

dilution of, 54-55

tarnishing of, 55

trademark protection for, 29

types of, 24-25

Fashion copying

acceptance of, 38

copyright law and, 20-21, 27-30

creativity effects of, 45, 49, 173

description of, 173

of design features, 37, 45

differing views on, 34

diffusion of fashion styles caused by, 43

economic studies of, 45-47

efforts to amend American law to prevent, 34-35

in Europe, 30-31, 39

examples of, 1-2, 19-20

by famed designers, 37

fashion cycle affected by, 44, 55

fast, 53

historical attempts to restrain, 30-34

as homage, 37

industry effects of, 5, 21, 27-30

job losses caused by, 35

lag time in, 54

lawsuits for, 38-39

norms against, 50-52

piracy paradox of, 44, 49, 174, 193

prestige associated with, 37

product improvement benefits of, 43-44

roles of, 44, 49

scope of, 37

social norms and, 51-52

speed of, 52-53, 193

status and, 39

timing of, 37

trends created by, 48-49, 54

useful articles concept, 27

Fashion cycle

copying effects on, 43-44, 55, 174

description of, 39-42, 173

Fashion designers

brand protection by, 54

copying by, 37, 50-51

lead time for, 192-93

self-knockoffs created by, 54-55

Fashion designs

copying of select features of, 37, 45

copyright law and, 5, 20-21, 30

design patents for, 28

exclusivity of, 41

expressive element of, 28

functional use issues associated with, 27

induced obsolescence of, 43-47, 49, 173

jewelry appliqué added to, 28

positional nature of, 40

rapid diffusion of, 42-43

sketches of, 27

status associated with, 39-40

trademark law and, 29

Fashion industry

anchoring in, 47-49, 174

annual sales in, 22

brand names in, 24-25, 199

competition in, 24

copying in, 5, 21, 27-30

creativity in, 5, 45

diversification of, 23-24

fast fashion, 25-26

first-mover advantage in, 52-54, 192-93

globalization of, 24

history of, 22-27, 239n6

intellectual property in, 29

in Italy, 24

in London, 23

media coverage of, 26, 48

modern conception of, 25

Parisian influences on, 22

piracy effects on, 44

social norms in, 49-52

in 21st century, 26

status in, 39

“trade dress” protections, 29-30, 198

trends in, 40-41, 47-49, 54, 155, 174

in United States, 23-24

as winer-take-most market, 207

Fashion knockoffs

derivative works versus, 36

description of, 192

diffusion lines, 54-55

economic studies of, 45-47

media coverage of, 20, 36

prevalence of, 36

quality of, 240n20

self-knockoffs, 54-55

Fashion magazines, 48

Fashion Originators’ Guild of America, 30-34, 241n32

Fashion Originators’ Guild of America v. FTC,
33

Fashion styles, 41-42

Fashion trademarks

importance of, 29

protection of, 5, 29

Fast fashion, 25-26

Fast-food restaurants, 61

Fat Duck, 190

“Fat-washing,” 93

Fauchart, Emanuelle, 78-80, 84, 86, 115

Faviana, 1-2, 20

Fear Factor
, 97

Feist Publications v. Rural Telephone Service,
162-63, 165

Fidelity, 125

File-hosting sites, 218

Filene’s Basement, 32-33, 241n33

Filesharing, 213, 216, 229, 255n4

Film distribution, 230

Financial services industry

asset securitization, 159

bank market share, 160-61

copying in, 125-26

creativity in, 156-57

exchange-traded funds, 159

growth of, 155-56

index funds, 124-25, 159

innovations in, 155-61

junk bonds, 159

mutual funds, 123-25

nondisclosure agreements in, 160

over-the-counter derivatives, 159-60

patents in, 157-60

profits in, 156

research and development spending in, 158

societal benefits of, 156

trade secrecy in, 157-58

First-mover advantage

copyright and, 195

in databases, 193-94

definition of, 191

description of, 173, 191-95

in fashion industry, 52-54, 192-93

in football industry, 132, 192

patents and, 195

in software, 194

Flay, Bobby, 84

Foley + Corinna, 19-20, 37, 45

Foley, Dana, 19-21, 38, 45

Font(s)

Arial, 147

bundling of, with software, 153

calligraphic, 146, 250n13

in computer code, 149-50

copying of, 147-52

copyright law and, 147-49

description of, 14, 126

digitization of, 150-51

distinctiveness of, 250n17

“functional” classification of, 148

Georgia, 148

graphic designers use of, 153

Helvetica, 146-47, 154

history of, 146, 149

messages conveyed through, 146

patent protection for, 149

printing technology effects on, 152-53

steampunk-inspired, 155-55

technological advances that affected, 149-53

Times New Roman, 147-48, 152

trademark law and, 149, 250n17

trends in, 154-55

Font design

amateurs involved in, 151-52

creativity of, 150

fads in, 175

growth of, 150

innovation in, 150-53

trends in, 154-55

tweaking in, 151

Font designers, 151

Food.
See also
Chef(s); Recipes

aesthetic appeal of, 245n25

American law’s view of, 67-68

“built,” 59, 64, 67-68

clothing and, similarities between, 68

cocktails and, similarities between, 93-94

creativity of, 61

experience associated with eating of, 85-86, 180

as functional item, 67-68

innovation associated with, 179-80

reproduction of, 59

transitory duration of, 244n16

“useful articles doctrine” application to, 68

variations in, 84

Food & Wine,
81

Food culture, 10

Food editors, 62

Food Network, 59, 87

Food recipe, 64-65

Food trucks, 9

Football

Ault’s contributions to, 135-36

barriers to copying in, 131-32

college, 126-27

copying in, 131-32, 139

first-mover advantage in, 132, 192

formations in, 130, 133, 192

history of, 126-27

“I-bone” offensive formation in, 128, 130

innovations in, 12-14, 127-31

“No Huddle Offense” in, 13, 129-30

passing in, 13, 127

patent protections in, 131

pioneers in, 132-36, 189

“pistol” formation in, 135-36

Rodriguez’s contributions to, 130, 134-35

“run-and-shoot” offense in, 133-34

Spread Offense in, 130, 134

“spread-option” formation in, 135

Theodore Roosevelt’s changes to, 127

tweakers in, 132-36, 138, 189

Walsh’s contributions to, 128-29

West Coast Offense in, 128-29

wishbone formation in, 133

Zone Blitz in, 129

Ford, Tom, 26-27, 38

Foreign cuisine, 62

Forever 21, 20-21, 25-26, 37-38, 45, 192

Fragmentation of audiences, 225

France

cuisine in, 60, 78-80

fashion in, 23, 31, 35, 39

Freakonomics,
145, 231

Freakonomics: A Rogue Economist Explores the Hidden Side of Everything,
145

Fred Segal, 42

Free
, 188

Freeman, Eben, 92-93

French Chef, The,
60

French Laundry, 77, 85, 190

Friend, Tad, 42

Friendster, 195

Frugal Gourmet,
65

Fry, Blake, 151

Furthurnet, 226

Galifianakis, Zach, 101

Galliano, John, 51

Georgia font, 148

GFT, 25

Ghesquiere, Nicholas, 37, 50-51

Gilhart, Julie, 51

Gladwell, Malcolm, 142, 249n10

Glamour,
48

“Gloria,” 141

Gold, Jonathan, 92

Goldin, Horace, 120

Goldman, William, 51

Goldman Sachs, 160

Gone With The Wind,
74, 144

Google, 188-89

Google +, 194

Google Books, 144

Gosline, Renee, 199-200

Gosling’s Black Seal rum, 93

Grand Central Oyster Bar, 58

Grateful Dead, 225-26

Grokster, 217-18

Gruden, Jon, 129, 138

Gucci, 5, 24

Gulley, Ned, 137-38

Gunzburg, Baron Nicolas de, 24

Gutenberg, Johannes, 145-46

Halford, Rob, 182

Halston, 24, 55

Hard Shake technique, 94

Hathaway, Anne, 47

Helvetica font, 146-47, 154

Hendrix, Jimi, 141

Henri Bendel department store, 34

Hilton, Paris, 19-20

Himself
, 106

H&M, 25-26

Hollywood, 230-31

Holmgren, Mike, 129

Hope, Bob, 100

Horyn, Cathy, 37

Howard Stern Show, The,
114

HSBC, 160

IBM, 188

“I-bone” offensive formation, 128, 130

Ibuprofen, 196-97

Ideas

credit given to author of, 109

lack of copyright law protection for, 103, 105

unattributed copying of, 108

“I’m Lovin’ It!”, 69

Imitation

innovation and, 16, 115-16, 168, 210

lessons about, 172-202

monopoly theory and, 168

In Rainbows
, 224

Index funds, 124-25, 159

Induced obsolescence, 43-47, 49, 173

Industrial revolution, 142

ING, 71

Innovation

benefits of, 203

brands effect on, 197

competition and, 168

as competitive process, 15

Constitutional protection of, 5-6

copying effects on, 6, 15-16, 90, 118, 166, 192, 207

in culinary industry, 9-10, 62, 88, 90, 189

economic growth benefits of, 15

factors that affect, 203

in financial services, 155-61

font design, 150-51

in football, 12-14

imitation and, 16, 115-16, 168, 210

incentivizing, 89

lessons about, 172-202

in magic industry, 122

monopoly theory of, 6, 8, 16, 39, 150, 166-68, 203, 238n6

prizes used to inspire, 203

protection of, 5-6

returns on, 203-4

Innovative Design Protection and Piracy Prevention Act, 20, 35-36, 237n2

Intellectual property

competition and, 237n3

Constitutional protection of, 5

definition of, 5

in fashion industry, 29

historical descriptions of, 81

innovation and, 14

patents.
See
Patents

political economy of, 238n7

power of, 5

premise of rights, 191

protection of, 4, 15

reasons for, 171

Supreme Court rulings, 237n4

Interlude, 72, 76, 80

International Association of Culinary Professionals Code of Ethics, 80

Internet

cuisine copying and, 68-69

radio on, 232

iPad, 142

iPhone, 142, 155

iPod, 147, 220
Iron Chef,
10, 87

iTunes, 176, 209, 218-20

J. Cole, 223-24

Jacobs, Marc, 5, 50-51, 54-55

Jagger, Mick, 183, 222

Jambands, 225-27

JCPenny, 25

Jefferson, Thomas, 6, 238n5

Jewelry, 27-28

Jobs, Steve, 142, 232

John Varvatos, 41

Joke(s).
See also
Comedians; Comedy industry

buying of, 110, 117

copyright protection of, 12, 103

firstness in performing of, 110-11

joint ownership of, 109-110

one-liner, 101-2, 116-17

ownership rules, 110-11, 116

plagiarism of, 108

premise of, 108-110

punch line ownership, 109

selling of, 110

Joke copying

detection of, 111, 118

enforcement against, by comedians, 111-15

examples of, 97-98, 103-7

historical differences in views on, 101, 109, 116-17

premise of joke, 108-110

prevalence of, 100-101

proving of, 103, 108

refusal to deals as form of sanction for, 114

reputational sanctions for, 112-14

social norms against, 107-15, 117, 177-78

violent retaliation for, 114

Jones, Rickie Lee, 141

Junk bonds, 159

Kamp, David, 60

Kawakubo, Rei, 24

Kazaa, 217

Keaton, Buster, 15

Keller, Thomas, 62, 77, 81, 85, 90, 190

Kellogg Co. v. National Biscuit Co.,
196

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