The Little Paris Kitchen (3 page)

Before I moved to France, the thought of eating
boudin noir
(blood sausage or black pudding) would have made my stomach turn, but now I must admit I'm quite partial to a slice or two.

If you're a
boudin noir
virgin and feel a little intimidated about eating a whole sausage, then this dish is a great way to try it because there's only a small amount and it's used like a garnish.

In France,
boudin noir
is usually partnered with cooked apples and potatoes, making it the perfect cold-weather comfort food. This recipe has the addition of mint, to give it a fresh flavor.

SERVES 2 AS A STARTER OR I AS A MAIN COURSE

• 1 tsp olive oil • 8 oz firm-fleshed potatoes (such as fingerling), chopped into small cubes • salt and pepper • 1 Granny Smith apple • 1 tbsp water • 1 tsp sugar • a handful of mint leaves • 4 oz
boudin noir
or blood sausage

Put the olive oil into a pan and place on a medium heat. When the pan is warm, add the cubed potatoes and cook for 10 minutes or until the potatoes are tender and a lovely golden brown color. Shake the pan every now and again, and season the potatoes with salt and pepper.

Meanwhile, peel three-quarters of the apple and chop into small cubes (save the remainder for later). Microwave the apple cubes with the water and sugar in a covered bowl until soft. This should only take a minute or two. (Alternatively, cook for about 5 minutes in a covered small pot.)

Using the back of a spoon, mash the cooked apple to a purée, then keep the purée covered so that it stays warm.

Finely chop the mint and chop the remaining apple into small cubes (leave the skin on).

Once the potatoes are cooked, pop them into a bowl and keep them covered. Place the pan back on a medium heat. Remove the skin from the sausage and crumble the sausage meat into the pan. Cook for 2–3 minutes, tossing the crumbs so that they brown evenly.

To plate up, start by spreading a tbsp of the apple purée on each plate. Sprinkle over a little of the mint, followed by the potatoes, sausage crumbs, and chopped apple. Finally, sprinkle with a little more mint. Serve immediately.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes

The Paris des Chefs conference is a draw for international culinary talent and is always inspirational. At the 2011 conference, I met Estonian chef Peeter Pihel (from Neh in Tallinn and Pädaste Manor on Muhu Island) and tasted one of his dishes—roasted root vegetables with a goat's cheese mousse. It inspired me to try something similar with produce from my local Parisian market.

This recipe can be adapted to any vegetables that are in season, and in summer you can use peppers, cucumbers, and tomatoes to make a crunchy raw version.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A MAIN COURSE

For the mousse:
7 oz
Selles-sur-Cher
cheese
*
• ½ cup milk • ½ cup whipping cream

For the vinaigrette:
4 tbsp sunflower or vegetable oil • 2 tbsp cider vinegar • salt

• 4 carrots, roughly chopped • 2 small dessert apples, cored and quartered • 2 parsnips, roughly chopped • 2 tbsp sunflower oil • salt • 3½ oz lardons or cubes of smoked bacon (optional) • 1 cooked beet, peeled and very thinly sliced • 2 handfuls of salad leaves

TO MAKE THE MOUSSE:
Beat the cheese with the milk until soft and lump free. Whip the cream to stiff peaks. Add one-quarter of the whipped cream to the cheese and mix together, then fold in the rest of the cream. Transfer the mousse to a piping bag fitted with a
⅜
-inch plain nozzle and leave in the fridge until needed (it will keep for a couple of days).

TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE:
Mix together the oil and vinegar and season with salt.

Preheat the oven to 400°F. Toss the carrots, apples, and parsnips into a large roasting pan. Drizzle with the sunflower oil and season with salt. Roast for 45 minutes or until the vegetables are tender and golden.

Just as the vegetables finish cooking, toss the lardons (if using) into a hot pan and cook until crisp.

To serve, pipe little blobs of mousse randomly all over a serving plate. Arrange the roasted vegetables and apples, beet, and salad leaves on the plate, and sprinkle the lardons (if used) on top. Finally, drizzle with the vinaigrette.

*
Selles-sur-Cher
cheese works particularly well. It is a goat's cheese coated in edible ash that lends a subtle smokiness. But any other soft goat's cheese will also work
.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 45 minutes

The Italians have Parma ham and the Spanish have Serrano, while the French have jambon de Bayonne, named after the city in southwest France. It is air-dried for months, while it goes through various salt-, fat-, and spice-rubbing processes to make a delicate meat that is slightly sweet and moist. Bayonne ham makes a great addition to the classic
poireaux vinaigrette
, which you don't see much any more, unless you happen to have a French
grand-mère
. Normally the leeks are boiled or steamed, but I like to pop them on the griddle pan. It brings out their sweetness.

SERVES 4 AS A STARTER OR 2 AS A LIGHT LUNCH

For the vinaigrette:
6 tbsp sunflower oil • 3 tbsp white wine vinegar • 2 tsp grainy mustard • a pinch of sugar • salt

• 8 young leeks • 3 tbsp olive oil • 1 egg per person • a couple of drops of vinegar • 4 slices of Bayonne ham
*
• salt

TO MAKE THE VINAIGRETTE:
Mix together the oil, vinegar, mustard, and sugar. Season with salt.

Trim the roots from the leeks and remove the tough tops and outer leaves. Cut the leeks in half lengthwise and soak in cold water for 10 minutes, then rinse to remove any grit that may be in between the leaves.

Heat a griddle pan until smoking hot.

Brush the cut side of each leek half with olive oil, then place the leeks, cut-side down, in the pan and cook for 5 minutes or until the grill marks appear. Brush the top side of the leeks with olive oil before turning them over to cook for a further 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Crack an egg into a ramekin or cup and add a drop of vinegar. Whisk the boiling water vigorously before slipping in the egg, then quickly repeat with more eggs and poach for 3–4 minutes or until the yolks are just set and slightly soft.

To assemble, divide the leeks between individual plates and drizzle the vinaigrette on top.
**
Shred the ham into strips and drape over the leeks. Top each serving with a poached egg and a sprinkling of salt.

Preparation time: 30 minutes Cooking time: 20 minutes