The Martha Stewart Living Cookbook (3 page)

all-purpose flour
is made from a blend of high-protein hard wheat and low-protein soft wheat; use it to make piecrusts, cookies, pancakes, waffles, and biscuits. Look for the unbleached variety.

bread flour,
with its high protein content, is appropriate for making yeast breads and popovers.

cake, or pastry, flour
is a fine-textured, low-protein flour best used for cakes, pastries, and quick breads, where a tender crumb is desired. Most recipes call for cake flour that is not self-rising (meaning baking powder and salt have been added), so be sure to check the label before buying.

wheat flour:
Unlike white flour, wheat flour contains the bran and germ of the wheat berry. It has higher fiber, nutritional, and fat content than white flour. Many recipes call for a combination of white and wheat flour for improved flavor and texture, as using all wheat flour can give very chewy results.

GELATIN
There are two forms of gelatin: granulated, which is easiest to find, and sheet (or leaf), available at gourmet and baking supply shops. Granulated gelatin must always be softened first by soaking in cold water for several minutes; sheet gelatin must be soaked a bit longer, but it is preferred by many professional bakers for the creamier texture it develops. Four sheets of gelatin equals one package of powdered. Check for expiration dates on packets of powdered gelatin; sheet gelatin will keep for about ten months at room temperature. Besides making jelled desserts, gelatin can be used to stabilize mousses, whipped creams, and dessert sauces.

MOLASSES
Molasses is made from the juice extracted from cane sugar during the refining process; the juice is boiled, then sugar crystals are removed from the resulting liquid, leaving behind the thick syrup that is molasses. Light molasses is made by boiling the juice once; for dark molasses, it’s boiled twice. The light version has a subtle sweetness and is most often used for pancakes and waffles. Dark molasses, which is less sweet and has a deeper taste, is preferred for baking. Both light and dark are sold in two forms: sulfured (which has been processed with sulfur as a preservative and is sweeter and thicker) and unsulfured, often preferred for its sharper, more pronounced taste. If a recipe calls for unsulfured molasses, you can use sulfured, but the outcome might be slightly different; adding a bit less sugar might help balance the flavor. Blackstrap molasses, created by boiling sugarcane juice three times, is very dense and bitter tasting and should not be substituted for other types of molasses. Stored in a cool, dark place, molasses will keep for up to a year.

SUGAR
Besides sweetness, sugar adds tenderness to doughs, stability to meringues, and a golden-brown hue to the surface of almost any baked good. Humidity can make sugars lumpy, so keep them in well-sealed containers in a cool, dry spot. Double-wrap brown sugars to keep them moist.

brown sugar,
a combination of granulated sugar and molasses, has a softer texture, darker color, and distinctive flavor. Light brown sugar has a more delicate taste than dark; they can usually be used interchangeably. If your brown sugar has hardened, there are a couple of ways to soften it. To use it right away, place a half pound in a microwaveable bowl, drape with a damp paper towel, and cover with plastic wrap; heat at ten-second intervals, just until it becomes soft, then break apart the lumps with a fork. If you have more time, place an apple or bread slice in the bag overnight (no longer), which will return the sugar to its optimal consistency.

confectioners’ sugar,
also called powdered sugar, is made by grinding granulated sugar to a fine powder, then sifting and adding a small amount of cornstarch to prevent caking. It dissolves easily in icings and candies, and can be dusted over finished desserts.

granulated sugar
has a fine grain that makes it perfect as a table sweetener and cooking ingredient.

superfine sugar
has finer crystals than granulated sugar (though not as fine as confectioners’), and is often used to make meringues or fine-textured cakes, such as angel food. Because it dissolves quickly, superfine is good for sweetening cold drinks.

turbinado sugar
is made by steaming raw sugar to remove impurities. The caramel-colored coarse crystals are slightly crunchy and have a mild molasses flavor. Sprinkle it on cereal or stir it into hot drinks.

VANILLA BEANS AND EXTRACT
The thin black fruit of an orchid, vanilla beans are actually pods that are picked when green, then cured and fermented. To preserve the flavor and aroma of vanilla beans, store them carefully: Wrap tightly in plastic, then put them in an airtight container and keep in a cool, dark place for six months to a year. Vanilla extract is made by steeping chopped vanilla pods in alcohol and water and then aging the strained liquid. Always buy extract that is labeled “pure” (imitation vanilla offers little flavor and a bitter aftertaste); Mexican and Tahitian extracts are worth the extra cost. Tightly sealed, vanilla extract will last indefinitely at room temperature.

VEGETABLE SHORTENING
Shortening is made by hydrogenating vegetable oils to make them solid. It is virtually flavorless and used for making tender piecrusts and other baked goods. Store shortening at room temperature for up to a year.

REFRIGERATED GOODS

BACON
Besides being delicious on its own, bacon lends incomparable flavor to many dishes, such as chowders and other soups, baked beans and collard greens, and savory custards and tarts. There are many types; look for bacon that is free of nitrates and other artificial ingredients. Thick-sliced bacon, along with its melted fat, provides not only flavor but also a hot dressing for wilting spinach or other greens. The subtler flavor of Canadian bacon (which is also lower in fat and calories than American-style bacon), is an essential component of eggs Benedict. Pancetta, a traditional Italian bacon, is cured but not smoked; it is highly flavorful and slightly salty, and a small amount is all it takes to flavor pasta sauces and other dishes. All bacon can be tightly wrapped and kept for up to three weeks in the refrigerator or three months in the freezer.

BUTTER
Unsalted butter has the purest flavor. It is ideal for all types of cooking, especially baking. European-style butters are also good for baking, especially pastries and shortbread, as well as for spreading at the table. They have a higher percentage of butterfat (typically 83 percent compared to 80 percent) and a richer, more distinctive taste.

CHEESE
Of all the many types of cheese available, the following are among the more versatile. Of course, it’s also nice to keep a supply of favorites, such as Cheddar and Muenster, for making grilled cheese or for quickly putting together an appetizer to share with unexpected guests.

fontina cheese
is a cow’s milk cheese with a mildly sweet, nutty, buttery flavor. Smooth and shot through with tiny holes, fontina is a very good melting cheese and is excellent on pizza and in hot sandwiches.

goat cheese
Made from goat’s milk, this soft and creamy cheese is usually sold in logs or disks; French goat cheeses are often called chèvre. Goat cheese is particularly good in egg dishes, salads, sandwiches, and savory tarts, as well as paired with fresh fruit as a light snack or dessert. Aged goat cheeses are more pungent and often have a rind; they are harder in texture and not generally a good substitute for fresh in recipes (but they are delicious as a snacking cheese). Keep fresh goat cheese, loosely wrapped, in the least cold part of the refrigerator. It should not be frozen, but you may want to pop it in the freezer for five or ten minutes to make it easier to slice.

gruyère
is another wonderful melting cheese, and is traditionally used in making croque-monsieurs.

parmesan
This popular cheese is a hard, dry cheese made from skimmed or partially skimmed cow’s milk. The finest of the many kinds of Parmesan is Parmigiano-Reggiano (the name should be printed on the perimeter of the rind), produced in the Emilia-Romagna region of Italy. Known for its sumptuous flavor, this cheese can appear at any point of the meal, from hors d’oeuvres to dessert. A good alternative is Pecorino Romano. For the best flavor, buy wedges of cheese (instead of already grated) and grate just before using or serving. To keep Parmesan, wrap it in parchment paper and then plastic, and store it on the bottom shelf (or in the cheese bin) of the refrigerator.

EGGS
Eggs come in many sizes; large is the most common and the size most often used in our recipes. Shell color has nothing to do with flavor or nutritional value, but is determined by the breed of the hen. When buying eggs, check to make sure the eggs are clean and free of cracks, and look on the carton for an expiration date. To store, refrigerate eggs in their original carton; it will help protect the delicate, porous shells from cracking and absorbing odors. Eggs are freshest within a week of purchase, but will keep longer (up to a month).

FRESH HERBS
Fresh herbs have a singular ability to brighten any dish. To store, wrap them in damp paper towels, then place in a resealable plastic bag; keep them in the refrigerator’s vegetable bin. Leafy herbs, such as basil, will keep for up to a week; sturdier herbs such as thyme and rosemary will keep a bit longer. Wash leafy herbs as soon as you bring them home, before storing.

FRESH GINGER
Fresh ginger adds brightness to many dishes, making vegetables taste fresher and giving bite to seafood. The fine sharpness cuts through rich sauces and meats, such as duck or pork, and is a key note in many chutneys, curries, and pickling brines. When buying ginger, look for roots that are hard and seem swollen. The skin should be smooth; wrinkling is a sign of age. Unpeeled ginger keeps for up to three weeks when wrapped in a paper towel or placed in a paper bag, and then refrigerated in an airtight container. Freezing can preserve the flavor and makes it easier to grate.

LEMONS AND LIMES
A squeeze of lemon or lime juice makes fish, vegetables, fruit salad, and many other foods taste better. The juice and zest are also flavorful components of many dishes and baked goods. Keep fruit in a plastic bag in the fruit or vegetable bin of the refrigerator for up to two weeks.

MILK
Although you can sometimes substitute one type of milk for another, it’s best to use what is called for in a recipe. Whole milk, for instance, will produce a much creamier texture than skim. However, if a recipe calls for heavy cream and you don’t have any, whole milk can often be used instead. Keep buttermilk on hand for making salad dressings, biscuits, pancakes, and some cakes and quick breads. You can make your own buttermilk in a pinch: add a tablespoon of white vinegar or lemon juice for each cup of regular milk called for, and let sit for ten minutes before using in a recipe.

OLIVES
Olives can be used in salads, sandwiches, pasta dishes, pizza toppings, and more. Purplish kalamata are meaty and tangy (and easy to pit); other common varieties include Niçoise, Gaeta, and picholine, which have a slightly salty, nutty flavor and are ideal as appetizers. When possible, buy olives in bulk instead of in jars or cans. They will keep for several months, as long as they are submerged in oil or brine, and stored in a sealed container.