The Rock (50 page)

1.2
The Rock from the apex of the Dome. Photograph by David Harris.

1.3
Granite sculpture by Ronald Rae, entitled
War Veteran
, 1997. Regents Park, London.

1.4
Mount Hor, or
Jabal al-Nabi Harun
(the Mount of the Prophet Aaron) as seen from the cliffs surrounding Petra. Pilgrimages were being made to this mountain, venerated by Muslim and Jew alike as the site of Aaron’s death, until modern times. Lithograph by David Roberts,
The Holy Land, Syria, Idumea, Egypt, Nubia
, vol. 3 (London, 1849). By permission of the Kufa Library, London.

1.5
The World According to Ka’b, showing the Ka’ba and the Black Stone in the south; Mount Zion and the Rock in the north; the bird of Paradise to the east; and the Tree of Life to the west. © Zeynep Yurekli.

3.1
Muhammad preaching his farewell sermon. From al-Biruni’s
al-Athar al-Baqiya
(Surviving Traces of Ancient Nations). Al-Biruni died in 1048. The illustration is from an early-fourteenth-century edition of his manuscript produced in Tabriz. By permission of Edinburgh University Library (Ms. 161, fol. 6v).

3.2
The Prophet David. From Qazwini’s
Wonders of Creation
, which contains all the important prophets within medallions. The flame
enveloping the Prophet symbolizes the fire of the love of God emanating upward toward His Divine presence. Baghdad, seventeenth century. Gouache on paper. © Jewish National and University Library, Jerusalem (Yah. Ms. Ar. 8 1113).

6.1
Photograph of a twelve-foot-high rock of red granite known as the Rock of Moses in Sinai. Local Arabs believe this to be the actual rock struck by Moses to quench the thirst of the Israelites. Photographer unknown. Scanned from an edition of
The Holy Land
by David Roberts, published by Studio Editions (London, 1989). Courtesy of the Kufa Library, London.

7.1
The Prophet solving a dispute between the tribes of Mecca by having them join in replacing the Black Stone into the southeastern wall of the Ka’ba. From the
World History
of Rashid al-Din. By permission of Edinburgh University Library (Ms. 20, fol. 45r).

7.2
The Black Stone inside its silver frame. Excerpted from a postcard printed in Saudi Arabia.

8.1
Jerusalem from the Mount of Olives. © Zeynep Yurekli.

9.1
Abraham, Isaac, and the Angel. Limestone relief, 20¾ inches by 15½ by 2 inches. Coptic, fifth century. © National Museum of Antiquities, Leiden, The Netherlands.

11.1
Mosaic icon of Saint John Chrysostom (344–407), one of the founding fathers of the eastern Church. By permission of the Byzantine Collection, Dumbarton Oaks, Washington, D.C.

12.1
The city of Jerusalem in the seventh century. © Zeynep Yurekli.

12.2
The Gate of the Column in the seventh century. © Zeynep Yurekli.

12.3
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre, or the Church of the Resurrection as it is known in Arabic. © Zeynep Yurekli.

12.4
A reconstruction of Byzantine Jerusalem based on the Madaba map in Jordan. The domed Church of the Holy Sepulchre is shown in the foreground. A cross is believed to have sat on top of the column at the Gate of the Column for a century or so into the Muslim conquest. Courtesy of the Tower of David Museum, Jerusalem.

13.1
Inside the rotunda of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre. From Corneille Le Bruyn,
Voyage au Levant
, vol. 2 (Paris, 1725). Courtesy of the Kufa Library, London.

14.1
Photograph of what remains of the Rock of Calvary, seen here encased in a glass box on the floor. Photographer unknown. See M. T. Petrozzi,
Dal Calvario Al S. Sepolcro
(Jerusalem: Franciscan Printing Press, 1972).

15.1
Byzantine gold coin depicting a portrait of the Empress Helena. © The British Museum.

16.1
Three woodcut engravings from J. Veldener’s illustrated
History of the Cross
, first published in Dutch in 1483 and then reissued as a facsimile in 1863. The woodcut to the left depicts Judas being lowered into a well as Helena and her retinue look on. The central woodcut shows his repentance, and the woodcut on the far right shows him digging “with might and main, To find the Holy Cross again.” By permission of Widener Library, Harvard University.

17.1
The Destruction by fire of the Temple of Jerusalem as depicted in al-Biruni’s
Al-Athar al-Baqiyah
. The illustration is from an early-fourteenth-century edition of his manuscript produced in Tabriz. The standing figure on the right is Nebuchadnezzar, and the Temple is shown as a large domed structure supported by a circular colonnade and enclosed by a wall. A white inscription at the base of the Dome reads,
“Bayt al-Maqdis,”
which derives from the Hebrew
Bet ha-Miqdash
, or Temple. The imagined form of this first Jewish Temple is clearly modelled on the Dome of the Rock. Notice that the first Temple is also imagined as a tentlike structure, an allusion, however indirect, to the origins of both the Temple and the Dome of the Rock in tent construction. By permission of Edinburgh University Library (Ms. 161, fol. 134v).

17.2
Architectural ruins. From Charles W. Wilson,
Picturesque Palestine, Sinai and Egypt
, vol. 2 (London, 1882). Courtesy of the Kufa Library, London.

19.1
The Church of the Ascension. Loosely based on a description left by the pilgrim Arculf in 660. © Zeynep Yurekli.

22.1
The Prophet’s Footprint. Photograph of a relic. By permission of the Topkapi Palace Museum, Istanbul.

22.2
Muhammad riding his extraordinary steed, Buraq, traditionally represented in Islamic art as a composite of mule and camel with a woman’s face. From a manuscript of the
Miraj Nameh
, produced in the workshops of Herat, Khurasan, in the fifteenth century. The text is decorated with sixty-one illuminations that tell the story of the Prophet’s ascent to Heaven. By permission of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris.

22.3
Muhammad negotiating with Moses the number of daily prayers he should enjoin upon his followers. Plate 35 of the fifteenth-century
Miraj Nameh
, produced in Herat. By permission of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris.

24.1
A possible representation of the Caliph Abd al-Malik shown grasping a sword with his left hand. It is thought to have been issued during his reign on a coin known in the literature as The Mihrab and ’Anaza bust. See Luke Treadwell, “The ‘Orans’ Drachms of Bishr ibn Marwan and the Figural Coinage of the Early Marwanid Period” in
Bayt Al-Maqdis: Jerusalem and Early Islam
, edited by Jeremy Johns (Oxford: Oxford University Press, 1999). By permission of the Bibliothèque Nationale de France, Paris.

25.1
Abraham and Sara with Isaac (Ishaq) dispatching Ishmael (Isma’il), the ancestor of the Arabs, into the desert. From a manuscript produced in Constantinople in the twelfth century, known as the
Codex Graecus
746, folio 80 recto. © Biblioteca Apostolica Vaticana.

25.2
The city of Mecca growing around the Ka’ba. © Zeynep Yurekli.

28.1
Sequence of geometrical diagrams showing the derivation of the plan of the Dome of the Rock and culminating in an axonometric drawing showing how Ishaq imagined the Ka’ba fitting into the Dome. The axonometric is based upon a drawing in Creswell,
Early Islamic Architecture
, and the portrayal of the fusion between the Ka’ba and the Dome borrows a drawing of the Ka’ba developed by Zeynep Yurekli.

29.1
The Rock and its Dome. Photograph by Garo Nalbandian.

30.1
Vegetal decoration arising from jewelled vase. Photograph of interior mosaic in the Dome of the Rock. © 1992 Said Nusseibah Photography. San Francisco.

30.2
Holy Rock, Summit of Mount Moriah. Jerusalem, 1891. Watercolor by Carl Haag. © Christie’s Images, London.

31.1
Jewelled crown inlaid with mother-of-pearl amid lush vegetation. Photograph of interior mosaic in the Dome of the Rock. © 1992 Said Nusseibah Photography. San Francisco.

31.2
Two sides of a copper coin with a menorah-styled candlestick and the inscription “Muhammad Messenger of God” on the reverse. Issued in Jerusalem by Abd al-Malik as the Dome of the Rock was nearing completion. Numismatic Collection, Yale University.

For reading and commenting on this manuscript in one or more of its multiple transfigurations, Ali Allawi, Pamela Berger, Patricia Crone, Musa Farhi, Rena Fonseca, Mai Ghoussoub, Margaret Makiya, Mary Ann Mcgrail, Hassan Mneimneh, Afsaneh Najmabadi, Anne Marie Oliver, Rend Rahim, Emmanuel Sivan, Naghmeh Sohrabi, Daniel Terris, and my dear friend, Emmanuel Farjoun, who first walked the streets of the Old City with me.

For historical research that went far beyond the call of duty, Chris Berdik, Jonathan Stern, and Rashid Khayoon. For sharing with me the index cards of his research as they related to Ka’b, Nasser Rabbat. For research into images and photographs of relics, Lara Tohme, Kris Manjapra, and Anne Marie Oliver. For sharing with me the heartache of constructing images allied to this book in their spirit, and then making them, Zeynep Yurekli. For countless hours spent teaching me the intricacies of Photoshop and Minicad, Walid al-Khazraji. For tracking down copyright owners and pursuing picture permissions Kris Manjapra and Keramet Reiter. For going over my transliterations, Bruce Fudge. For fact checking and completing and reorganizing my scattered sources, Jennifer Meier and Kathryn Hinkle.

Finally for being the kind of editor that most writers only get to dream about, Dan Frank. And for introducing me to Dan, and being there when I needed him, Toby Eady.

To all of them, my deepest gratitude.

Born in Baghdad, Kanan Makiya is the author of
Republic of Fear, Post-Islamic Classicism, The Monument
, and
Cruelty and Silence
, which was awarded the Lionel Gelber Prize for the best book on international relations. He has written for
The New York Times, The New York Review of Books, The Independent, The Times
(London), and
The Times Literary Supplement
. A trained architect, he is a founding director of The Iraq Foundation, a Washington-based nonprofit organization that facilitates research toward a democratic Iraq. He has collaborated on two films for television, one of which,
Saddam’s Killing Fields
, received the Edward R. Murrow Award for Best Television Documentary on Foreign Affairs. Makiya Sylvia K. Hassenfeld Professor of Islamic and Middle Eastern Studies at Brandeis University. He lives in Cambridge, Massachusetts.

Republic of Fear:
The Politics of Modern Iraq

The Monument

Cruelty and Silence:
War, Tyranny, Uprising and the Arab World

The Rock:
A Seventh Century Tale of Jerusalem

Post-Islamic Classicism