The Story of Sushi (34 page)

L.A. fish-market items available and purchased on 22 July 2005:
author visit to, and inventory and price-list printouts and invoices from, International Marine Products, Inc. and Ocean Group, Inc. (22 July 2005).
Tetsu’s personal history:
interview with Tetsuya Tsumoto (12 Sep. 2005).
International Marine Products:
“About Us.”
Tsukiji Fish Market in Japan:
Bestor (2004) 1–90; Corson, “Tsukiji” author visit to Tsukiji Fish Market (18 Mar. 2004); interviews with Zoran Lekic (17, 19, and 22 July 2005).

17.
BLOOD AND GUTS

Textbook on grilling:
Tsuji 174–182.
Fish evolution:
Moyle 221–243; Purves 617–625.
Lack of ovens:
Tsuji 175.
Anatomy and the science of cooking:
McGee 129–134, 146–150, 187–192, 778; Sakaguchi 117–118, 162–166.
Kirara fish-cutting scene:
Hayakawa v. 1, 181–182.
Smell:
Engen; “The Power of Smell.”
Mackerel:
McGee 202.

18.
EAT THE PIE

Headbands and other styles of sushi-chef apparel:
Ishige 228;
Restaurant Supply
173–180.

19.
THE BIG TEST

Sweet egg omelet:
Nakamura 39; Omae 19, 51.

20.
SUSHI NATION

Jeff’s observations on developments in American sushi:
interviews with Jeffrey Nitta (21 July 2005, 8 Aug. 2005, 9 and 23 Sep. 2005, 22 Mar.
2006).
Howard Dean:
Ehrenreich.
Starbucks and Blockbuster in Iowa:
Lozano; Google Maps at http://local.google.com.
Data on restaurants serving sushi:
During the summer of 2006 my research assistant Jenny Mayo of the Advanced Program in Writing at Johns Hopkins University collected data on restaurants and supermarkets selling sushi in 14 Midwestern states. Mayo gathered initial lists of food establishments from online restaurant guides and phone books for each city. She telephoned each restaurant to confirm its status, then checked each restaurant’s incorporation data as filed with the state government. Only restaurants that Mayo could identify in state government databases are listed here, so actual numbers are undoubtedly higher. Incorporation data provided an approximate but not exact guide to the dates when restaurants opened. Mayo also interviewed restaurant owners and food critics about sushi in many of the states she surveyed.
Waterloo, IA:
Ericson.
Sioux City, IA:
Crawford.
Indianapolis, IN:
Lloyd.
Chicago, IL:
phone interview with restaurant critic Phil Vettel of the
Chicago Tribune
(24 July 2006) by Jenny Mayo; LaMorte.
Dallas/Forth Worth, TX:
Stuertz.
Wal-Mart:
Halkias.
Advanced Fresh Concepts, Genji Express, and Sushi Avenue:
Company Web sites (accessed 31 Oct. 2006) http://www.afcsushi.com, http://www.genjiweb.com, and http://www.sushiavenue.com; Tamamura 214–216; Kessler; Moskin “Sushi.”
Total number of sushi restaurants and take-out outlets:
phone interviews with Laura Murphy of the California Rice Commission (31 Aug. 2006) and David Kudo of All Japan News Inc. (31 Aug. 2006) by Jenny Mayo.
Nationalities of chefs:
Naka; phone interviews with restaurant critic Dennis Ray Wheaton of
Chicago Magazine
(26 July 2006) and with staff at sushi restaurants in several Midwestern states (various dates, summer 2006) by Jenny Mayo; Takamura 201–203.
Supermarkets before restaurants:
Nakamura 161.
Westernization of Japan and Japanese diet:
Caryl; Lie 76–77; Ishige 155–158, 162–171.

21.
MANHOOD OF SHRIMP

Shrimp and crustaceans:
McGee 218–222; Yoshino 246; o ba 202–208; Koeller; Nagayama 51, 141, 183; Naruse 149; Satomi 189; Otwell; Garrido; Roberts.

22.
GETTING FISHY

Mackerel:
Nakamura 12–13, 16–19, 24–25, 47, 88–89; Naruse 128.
Anisakis parasite:
Oshima; Akbar; Weir; Sheraton; “Anisakiasis” “Parasites” McGee 186–187; Nakamura 89; Roach.
Salting fish:
McGee 212, 231–232.
Smells of fish:
McGee 192–193, 205–206; “Trimethylaminuria.”
Salting and marinating:
Omae 104–105; Nakamura 36–37; Sakaguchi 176–177;
Naruse 61, Nagayama 127.
Fish and enzymes:
McGee 189–190, 211.
Mackerel couriers:
“Saba Kaido.”
Ratio of muscle to body weight:
Tidwell; Blakely; Greenberg.
Three-piece breakdown:
Tsuji 123–127.
Albacore:
Yoshino 122–123; Nakamura 75.

23.
RAW DEAL

History of sashimi:
Ishige 224–227; Sato 67; e-mail interview with Eric Rath of the University of Kansas (28 Sep. 2006).
Column peel:
Tsuji 138–139.
Radish and perilla:
Nakamura 97–98; oba 44; McGee 310, 321–322, 404–405 (see also notes on mustard oils for Chapter 25, “Russian Roulette”).
Food presentation as Zen garden:
Ishige 187–189; Ohnuki-Tierney 206.

24.
MACKEREL GAL

Scombroid poisoning:
McGee 185; Moskin “Tuna’s Red Glare.”
Categories of red, white, and blue/shiny:
Yoshino 111; oba 94–97; Honda 2–3; Naruse 84–154.
Mackerel gals:
e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (6 Aug. 2006).
Dandy, pimp:
Davidson 467.
Scales:
Moyle 15–17.
Pin bones:
McGee 190.
Box sushi:
Tsuji 295–299; Nakamura 12–13.

25.
RUSSIAN ROULETTE

Examples of American-style rolls:
Kauffman; Griffith.
Big roll:
Tsuji 300–302; Omae 70.
Most commercial wasabi:
ingredients list is from Waner brand bulk wasabi powder used at Hama Hermosa; most brands are similar.
Wasabi science and history:
McGee 415–418; Bones; Barber, M.; Naruse 78–80; Ishige 227; oba 43–45; Nakamura 69–71; Nagayama 241; Hayakawa v. 5 138–139; Ono; “Technical and Medicinal”
Daio Wasabi
; interviews with Clark Sayer of Clark Sayer & Associates (26 Mar. 2006 and 4 April 2006).
Roy Carver and Pacific Farms:
author visit to Pacific Farms in Florence, OR, and interview with Ted Wakeman, farm operations manager (27 Feb. 2006; follow-up phone interview, 8 Mar. 2006); Sheff; Crain; Uhrhammer; Strauss.

28.
COMEDY CLUB

Scene from Kirara comic:
Hayakawa v. 4 188–190.
Jay Leno:
Gunther.
Toshi hiring actors and comedians:
interview with Toshi Sugiura (2 Sep. 2005).

30.
FROM FRESHWATER

Parasites in salmon:
Deardorff; Sheraton; Smith, D.; Frederick; “Parasites” McGee 186–187; Omae 24; Roach; “Quarterly Update” interviews
with state government food safety officials in California (17 Aug. 2006) by my research assistant Jenny Mayo of Johns Hopkins University; “Making Food.”
Fish evolution and salmon biology and farming:
Morgan 17–34; Quinn 4–10, 105–129, 141–142; McGee 194, 198–199; oba 95; Bestor (2004) 148–149; Hites; Jans; Weber; Purves 617–625; Moyle 2, 24, 221–243; Ade.
Bears:
Gende.
Traditional lean sushi toppings vs. modern fatty ones:
Nakamura 22–23, 35–36, 88–89, 92–93; Nagayama 175; Omae 24, 31, 33; Bestor (2004) 142; Sakaguchi 71–74.
Fish shapes and cutting:
Tsuji 118–131.

31.
CONGRATULATIONS FISH

History, names, biology, and farming of sea bream/snapper/tai:
Nakamura 22–23, 98–101; Omae 31; Sato 19, 53; Nagayama 49; oba 127; Naruse 101–102; Helfman 10–18; Stevens; Marko;
Snapper Aquaculture
; Watanabe, T.; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (10 Aug. 2006); McGee 197.
Kirara scene with leftover sushi:
Hayakawa v. 1, 34–35.
Muscle types:
Moyle 23–26; McGee 131–133, 184, 188; Helfman 260–262; Sakaguchi 71–72.
Sea bream taste:
Naruse 101–102.
Yuzu
flavor components:
McGee 374, 378.

32.
UNLEASH THE BEAST

Names, biology, and farming of yellowtail:
Nakamura 83–86; Naruse 111–114, 159; Uehara; Hernen; Kolkovski; Watanabe, T.; Thakur; “Yellowtail Life Cycle” Knecht; Mazzola; “Shusse.”
Scales:
Thain 636–637; Purves 621; Stern 62–65; Moyle 15–17.
Five-piece breakdown:
Tsuji 123–130.
Wrapping fish in kelp:
interview with Tetsuya Tsumoto (17 Sep. 2005).
Muscle geometry:
Helfman 260–262; McGee 191–192.

33.
FLATFISH

Names, biology, musculature, and evolution of flatfish:
Bond 232–235; McGee 202–203; Nakamura 23, 80–83, 164; oba 143–144; Nagayama 39, 175; Naruse 103–107; Omae 33; Pauly 79–82; Moyle 15–17, 335–340; Helfman 138–139, 268; Okada; Martinez; Ohno; Luckenbach; Sakaguchi 71–80; Sato 71; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (27 July 2006).
Fish swimming:
Helfman 267; Colgate.

36.
SEA SNAKES

History, biology, life cycle, and harvesting of eels:
Schweid 12–35, 41–43, 65–68, 89–95, 103; Helfman 224–225; Bond 141; Sakaguchi 163–172; Sato
87, 100; Yoshino 214; Nakamura 26; oba 156; Moyle 17; Sbaihi; Tsukamoto; Clarke; Schreiber; e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (27 Aug. 2006).
Kirara eel scene:
Hayakawa v. 8, 133.
Sauce in packaged eel:
ingredients list from a common brand (Shirakiku) of pre-packaged frozen eel from China.

37.
TENTACLES OF THE DEEP

Octopus poison:
Satomi 87–88; Yoshino 264.
Octopus and squid biology, behavior, anatomy, and predators:
McGee 229–230; Boyle 15–16, 29–50; Hanlon 31–43, 69–76; Benjamins; Sumbre; Naruse 136; Nagayama 45, 97; Sakaguchi 159; Sato 179; Yoshino 246; Bittman.
Preparation of live octopus:
Satomi 196–197.
Kirara scene:
Hayakawa v. 13, 7–64.
Computer screens:
Ball.
Squid-fed tuna:
Sato 142; interview with Takumi Nishio (17 Sep. 2005).
Overfishing:
Worm.
Hama Hermosa losing money:
interview with Toshi Sugiura (10 Sep. 2005).

38.
GIANT CLAM

Geoduck as phallic object:
Dean, Sintax.
History, biology, and harvesting of geoducks:
“Geoduck Program” Scigliano; oba 268–270; Omae 47; McGee 227;
3 Feet Under.
Folk song:
“(My Gal Left Me for a) Geoduck Clam” (see Bottomfeeders).
Toxins in clams:
McGee 185–186; Nakamura 95–97; Hackett; Corson “Spreading.”
Flavors in clams, popularity in sushi:
Sakaguchi 116–117, 146–147; Nakamura 95–97; McGee 225–227; Omae 24.

39.
FINAL FISH

Transformation of tuna from low-class to high-class fish:
Nakamura 35–38, 90–94; Sakaguchi 179–180; Yoshino 113–120; Bestor (2004) 142; Bestor (2000).
Types of tuna and their fat content:
McGee 201; Yoshino 122–124; Cascorbi.
Types of tuna meat:
Satomi 99.
Tuna biology and anatomy:
Safina 23, 51–60; Helfman 260–262, 267, 271; Oba 88–99; McGee 188, 194, 201–202; Satomi 141–146; Naruse 85–89; Moyle 24; Watanabe, M.; Colgate; Shadwick; Wardle.
Maguro
to describe stiffness during sex:
e-mail interview with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (30 Oct. 2006).
Preference for
akami
over
toro
: Nakamura 93.
Freezing:
McGee 205–206, 794–795; Bestor (2000); Bestor (2004) 150; Nakamura 90–94; Moskin “Sushi” Knecht; author visit to tuna auction at Tsukiji Fish Market (18 Mar. 2004).
Most expensive tuna:
“One Tuna.”
Post-mortem flesh quality and aging:
McGee 142–144, 189–190, 202–204; Nakamura 90–95, 101–105; Sakaguchi 73–80; Naruse 88–89; Sato 71; Satomi 149; Safina
26.
Kirara scene:
Hayakawa v. 13, 162–163.
Oxidization and carbon-monoxide gassing:
Moskin “Tuna’s Red Glare” McGee 194.
Harvesting and aquaculture:
Cascorbi; Khan; Nakamura 94–95.
Surrogate parents
: Takeuchi.

40.
CARVING THE MOUNTAIN

Tuna filleting:
author visits to Tsukiji Fish Market in Tokyo (18 Mar. 2004) and Ocean Fresh fish market in Los Angeles (22 July 2005).
Mercury and Minamata
: Nestle 187–202; Roe; Allchin; Smith, W.; Ishimure.
Procedure for cutting a tuna fillet down into
neta
: also detailed in Satomi 136–138.
Parasites in tuna:
Oshima; Smith, D.
Marinating tuna in soy sauce:
Nakamura 35–37.

41.
SUSHI KUNG FU

Haiku about witchcraft:
Nakamura 20–21.
Ninja
: Omae 105–106.
Sushi techniques and scenes in Kirara comic
: Hayakawa v. 4 80–81; v. 5 85–86, 120–121, 148, 195; v. 7 133.
Real styles of
nigiri-
making technique:
e-mail interviews with Sakiko Kajino of Georgetown University (10–11 Aug. 2006).

42.
MORTAL COMBAT

Nare-zushi
: see Chapter 5, “Like the Vomit of a Drunkard.”

43.
DRUNKEN MASTER

Adjusting
nigiri
to match needs:
also mentioned in Nakamura 57–58.
Nigiri
and techniques
: see Chapter 12, “Putting on the Squeeze.”
Jiro Ono:
Satomi 251.

44.
EGGS AND OVARIES

Sushi bar lingo
: Nakamura 61–67.
Salmon eggs
: McGee 249–242; Quinn 8–10; Sakaguchi 236–237; Satomi 210; Omae 41; “Salmon at Risk” Gende; interview with Jay Terauchi (7 Sep. 2005).
Artificial salmon eggs:
Tanaka.
Sea urchins
: Ruppert 896–900; Pennisi; McGee 230; Steingarten 435–448; Oba 236; Nagayama 53; Sato 96; Nybakken 228–230; Nomura; Mattison; interviews with Dave Rudie of Catalina Offshore Products (24 Mar. 2006) and Tetsuya Tsumoto (9 Sep. 2005). “
Battleship” sushi
: Nakamura 34–35.