Tyburn: London's Fatal Tree (2 page)

Any discussion of Tyburn taps into a rich and fascinating diversity of history. This book will outline some of the associations of the Tyburn area from medieval times to 1783 when hangings ceased at this location. It also traces related themes such as the way in which the penal system changed over time and the role played by the crowd in the rituals of execution. It briefly surveys other hanging places in London and gives descriptions of some of the hangmen who officiated at Tyburn. There are examples of Tyburn featuring in literature and an attempt is made to reconstruct what a condemned prisoner travelling from Newgate to Tyburn would have seen and sensed at about the middle of the eighteenth century. To encourage a feeling for history in the field, the route to Tyburn is described as it may be followed at the present time with aspects of its topography, buildings and rich, varied historical connections.

L
ondon is clustered in the valley and along the flood plain of the River Thames as it approaches the sea. Both to the north and south of London there is high land where sands and gravels are superimposed on the clays which underlie the metropolis. To the north, flowing off these heights, which are very evident in the Highgate and Hampstead areas, are a number of streams which form tributaries of the Thames. Probably the best known of these are the Westbourne, the Fleet and the Tyburn.

‘Tyburn’ is a word of Saxon origins and its first mention is probably in the forged Charter of King Edgar (951) where it is written as ‘Teo-burna’. ‘Burna’ and its derivations are frequently found in English place names and they mean stream, bourne or brook. It is possible that the ‘ty’ part of the name indicates the union of two streams or a division into two branches enclosing an area of dry land. Another explanation is that the Tyburn was associated with the Saxons and the Germanic god Tiw who gave his name to Tuesday. If this latter explanation has any validity then this is ironic because Tiw was the god of law. Another explanation is that the name was originally ‘Teoburna’ meaning ‘boundary stream’.

The Tyburn is a small stream, the main source of which is a spring in the Lyndhurst Road area of Hampstead, once known as ‘Shepherdswell’. The water was appreciated for its clarity and was collected and sold by the bucket. The Tyburn runs almost due south close to Fitzjohns Avenue, behind the Hampstead Theatre, under Adelaide Road and past Swiss Cottage, after which it is joined at Woronzow Road by a small tributary. Woronzow Road owes its strange name to Count Simon Woronzow who came to Britain as Russian Ambassador in the eighteenth century and liked it so much that he settled in Marylebone and never went back home.

The tributary rises close to Hampstead Town Hall, flows through the Belsize Park district and skirts the western side of Primrose Hill. The combined stream crosses the Regent’s Canal branch of the Grand Union Canal in a cast-iron pipe aqueduct. It skirts Regents Park where it picks up a very small tributary rising under London Zoo and it then runs under Gloucester Place. The various com-ponents of the Tyburn once flowed through meadowland, at least as far as Swiss Cottage. From the middle of the nineteenth century, however, they had largely disappeared under bricks and mortar. South of Swiss Cottage it is likely that the stream was conduited and in use as a sewer as early as the 1670s.

The Tyburn is shown in a map by William Faden, dated 1785, sweeping first west and then eastwards to the stables of the Horse Guards near the Baker Street Bazaar. It flows under Marylebone Road and just west of Marylebone High Street, the bends of the northern end of which still provide evidence of the course of the invisible stream. Aybrook Street nearby takes its name from the Aye Brook which was an alternative medieval name for the Tyburn. It crossed Marylebone Lane twice. As it approaches Oxford Street the small valley the Tyburn has created is still visible. It runs under Oxford Street near what is now Stratford Place, close to Bond Street Underground station. Maps by Morden and Lea, dated respectively 1690 and 1700, show what is now Oxford Street crossing a nameless stream on a bridge at this point. Later editions show this stream named the ‘Aye Brook ‘or ‘Tybourne’. This bridge, which became part of the turnpike from St Giles to Kilburn in the 1720s, was a constant source of acrimony between various local government bodies and the turnpike trustees.

The presence of the Tyburn proved a nuisance to the engineers building the Central Line or ‘Twopenny Tube’ in 1900 because water from it kept flooding into the workings. Further north, St Cyprian’s church in Glentworth Street, Marylebone, needed especially deep foundations because of the presence of the Tyburn close by. In 1875 workmen building a sewer in Stratford Place chanced on a structure made of stone which historians believe was erected in the first half of the thirteenth century and is possibly London’s earliest reservoir. It was built around 1240 to store water from the Tyburn which was then despatched through elm or lead pipes via the Great Conduit to Cheapside to provide a water supply for the City of London. The existence of this water supply enhanced the importance of the area and in the reign of Elizabeth I a Banqueting House was built over the great cisterns associated with the conduit. The New River took over the provision of the main water supplies for the City in 1609 but the Banqueting House continued to be used for the junketings of the City fathers until it was pulled down in the 1730s. Stratford House was later built on its site. North Audley Street is no great distance away and here workmen once unearthed a Roman bath which it is thought took its water supply from the Tyburn.

The Tyburn now makes its surreptitious way through Mayfair by Lower Brook Street, the name again recalling the presence of the stream, to the foot of Hay Hill, through Lansdowne Gardens, down Half Moon Street and under Piccadilly at what used to be called the Kingsbridge. Mayfair takes its name from the erstwhile fair that was held on what was once called Brook Fields. This fair had become so disorderly, attracting belligerent, drunken crowds, mountebanks and confidence tricksters of all sorts and whores and pickpockets galore, that it was finally abolished in the latter half of the eighteenth century. The Tyburn then dips quite sharply through Green Park, heading in the direction of Buckingham Palace. The Tyburn’s subterranean presence may have been responsible for the mist that was once a feature on damp autumnal nights in the Green Park area.

From this point the rest of the Tyburn’s course is disputed. Three main possibilities have been identified. One is that it approached Buckingham Palace from whence it went underground and pursued a course down what are now St James Street, Orchard Street and College Street and then alongside the walls of Westminster Abbey and into the Thames. The second variation claims that the Tyburn divided when it got to the Westminster area and its two courses created Thornea Island on which the Abbey stands. The third is that from the present site of Buckingham Palace, the Tyburn turned west and forming the ancient boundary of the City of Westminster, flowed close to Tachbrook Street, across what are now Vauxhall Bridge Road and Grosvenor Road, and into the Thames in the Pimlico area. To add to the confusion surrounding the Tyburn, there is also a Tyburn Brook, a very small stream rising near Marble Arch and flowing into the Westbourne which forms part of the Serpentine at that point.

There is a story that Queen Anne (r. 1702–14) was rowed up the Tyburn in the Royal Barge as far as Brook Street and indeed traces of a mooring place were found in the vicinity during building works in the middle of the nineteenth century. It is recorded that the Tyburn once provided excellent sport for anglers.

Tyburn or ‘Tybourne’ is mentioned in Domesday Book and was the name originally given to the area now known as Marylebone. Only in later times did the usage of the name Tyburn evolve so that it applied just to the vicinity of the gallows. The original Tyburn district possessed a small church dedicated to St John the Baptist near the present Oxford Street and was built in 1200. It was in a lonely, low-lying and watery spot not far from where hangings were already taking place. By 1400 this church had become ruinous and the neighbourhood notorious for robberies. It was replaced but a further church was built around 1740 and this was known as St Mary’s-of-the-Bourne or by-the-Bourne which is probably how ‘Marylebone’ evolved. St Mary’s church became inadequate as the population of the area grew rapidly. After some delay a new church was opened in 1817 close to the present Oldbury Place and Marylebone Road. The Tyburn flows nearby and the bend at the north end of Marylebone High Street indicates its approximate course. The earlier St Mary’s was demoted to the status of ‘Parish Chapel’ and demolished in 1949. As late as 1720, the area north-east of the gallows remained well wooded and largely rural. Several monarchs, including Henry VIII, Elizabeth I and James I, are said to have enjoyed the thrill of the hunt in the area. What is now Marylebone High Street contained scattered rural hovels, some of them thatched and picturesquely decorated with climbing roses. This rustic idyll was about to change for ever.

In 1710 the manor of Marylebone was bought by the Duke of Newcastle whose only daughter married Edward Harley. In 1711 Harley was created Earl of Oxford, from whom the names of Harley Street and Oxford Street are derived. He embarked on large-scale quality housing development which meant that the old manor of Marylebone had 577 houses in 1739 and 2,600 in 1795.

After the revocation of the Edict of Nantes in 1685, many Huguenot refugees settled in the area around Marylebone and they opened a ‘French Chapel’ close to Marylebone Lane. This is depicted in Hogarth’s engraving ‘Noon’, the second of his engravings in the series
The Four Times of the Day
, published in 1738 and caricaturing French manners and customs. A pleasure ground known as the French Garden opened up in an area now covered by Devonshire Place, Beaumont Place and Devonshire Street. At first used largely for the playing of bowls, by the 1740s these grounds had become known as Marylebone Gardens, providing firework displays, fashionable social events and an assembly hall doubling as a theatre. The music in these gardens was at one time under the direction of Dr Thomas Augustine Arne (1710–78) who composed ‘Rule, Britannia’. New works produced by Handel in his later days often had their first British performance at Marylebone. The criminal fraternity is always attracted to places where the rich assemble. Pickpockets, footpads and highwaymen flocked to the area. Many of the drunken revellers were easy game as they left the gardens and wandered home befuddled. So common were the attacks on its patrons that the manager of the gardens was forced to provide mounted guards to escort patrons to their homes. The history of pleasure gardens in London is one of decline from the initially smart and ultra-fashionable through the raffish to the simply tawdry and disreputable. So it was with Marylebone Gardens. Its owner gave up the unequal struggle in 1778 and closed the gardens down. By this time Marylebone was largely built over and the presence of the gardens had helped to give the area a notoriously bawdy and boisterous character. It became renowned for cock-fighting, bear-baiting and prize-fighting. A number of pubs such as the Queen’s Head and Artichoke, the Yorkshire Stingo and the Farthing Pie House were all located close to the Tyburn and helped to give the area a reputation for drunkenness, violence and general debauchery.

‘Tyburn’ or Marylebone is rich in historical associations. Lord Byron was baptised in the parish church and Horatia Nelson’s name can be found in the parish register. Interestingly, her entry is the only one which does not show the parents’ occupations. Dr Johnson at one time resided at 38 Castle Street and Mrs Thrale, later Mrs Piozzi, with whom he was well acquainted, lived at 33 Welbeck Street. His biographer, James Boswell, lived not far away at 122 Great Portland Street and doubtless found much to please him in the raffish character of the place. Charles Dickens resided at 1 Devonshire Place. Many great artists lived in the district, including J.M.W. Turner, George Romney, John Flaxman and Sir Edwin Landseer. Captain Edward Marryat, author of
Mr Midshipman Easy
, was a resident as was Charles Wesley, the poet, Methodist and father of hymnology. He once preached an open-air sermon at York Gate, near the north end of Marylebone High Street and next to the Tyburn. He is buried in the yard of the old St Marylebone Church where his illustrious neighbours include George Stubbs, well known for his paintings of horses and other livestock.

What of the area around the notorious ‘fatal tree’ where so many wretches met their deaths over the centuries? There is considerable doubt about the exact site or sites of the gallows at Tyburn. It is possible that Tyburn was first used as a place of execution in 1196. In 1222, Henry III ordered the erection of two gibbets for the purpose of hanging thieves and malefactors in the place where the gallows were formerly situated – ‘The Elms’. ‘The King ordered two permanent gallows to be built on the basis that there were no more suitable trees’ (Barker 1970: 45). In 1393 a ‘Tyburn Gallows’ in the parish of Paddington is mentioned. In 1478 the site of the gallows is given as being in the Manor of Hide. Two fields are mentioned with the names of ‘Galowmede’ and ‘Galowfield’. These were close to where Marble Arch now stands and suggest a place of execution.

The earliest identification in graphic form of Tyburn as a site for executions seems to be the map which appears in the first edition of Camden’s
Britannia
dating from 1607. This shows the gallows situated at the junction of the present Edgware Road, Oxford Street and Bayswater Road. One suggestion is that in much earlier times there was a gallows close to Stratford Place and adjacent to where the Tyburn crossed Tyburn Road, later Oxford Street. The Tyburn River formed the west boundary of the old ‘Tyburn’ or ‘Marylebone’ district. It may be that the gallows moved from here some time late in the fourteenth century but that when it was re-erected somewhat to the west, the old name Tyburn stuck. The issue is made more confusing by the fact that there was a district sometimes called Tyburnia which approximates with Bayswater and from which a small stream called the Tyburn Brook emerged to flow south to join the Westbourne and thence to make its way through to the Thames.