Ugly Beauty (33 page)
Authors: Ruth Brandon
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Page number followed by
n
indicates a footnote.
Abetz, Otto, 100–101
Action Française, 88, 92, 166, 177
actresses, 22, 27, 60–61, 219–20, 222–23
aerosol cans, 150
aftershave products, 105, 229
Albi Enterprises, 149, 152
Allergan, 207
allergic reactions, 41, 62–63, 210–11
Alsace, 43, 45, 110–11, 129, 183
Ambre Solaire, 47, 107
aniline derivatives in hairdyes, 48–49
Antell, Charles, 227
Anti-Defamation League, 182
anti-Semitism, 81, 106, 140–41, 155–56, 164, 216
France and, 88, 89, 98, 117–21, 134, 159–60, 163, 177, 180
Arab boycott, 151–56, 174, 180–81, 182
Aragon, Louis, 241
Arch de Triomphe bombing (1937), 95, 97, 101, 158
Arden, Elizabeth, 8, 23, 140, 180, 227
Armory Show (1913), 32
Association of National Socialist Lawyers, 186
ATS (British Auxiliary Territorial Service), 104
Auger, Victor, 46, 47
Auschwitz, 120
n
, 172, 185
Australia, 2, 6, 7, 9–15, 17–18, 19, 24, 140–41
Azzalure, 297
“bachelor girls,” 9
Bakelite, 57, 74
Banier, François-Marie, 240–49, 250, 251, 252, 253
Bara, Theda, 27
Barbie, Klaus, 190
Barre, Raymond, 177
Baxter, Richard, 211
Beaton, Cecil, 219
beauty, ideals of, 48, 72, 80–81, 102, 106–8, 215–16
beauty industry, 193–229
exposé of, 40–42, 48, 62, 194
n
, 202, 210
male consumers and, 104–5, 207, 211–12, 220–21, 228–29
as male business preserve, 227–28
Occupation and, 106–9
photography and, 217–20, 223, 224
psychological effects and, 30
n
, 40, 41–42, 148, 211
recessions and, 35, 210, 211–12
special sales techniques and, 30, 149
untapped market and, 40, 48
women entrepreneurs and, 8–10, 216
See also
cosmetics; cosmetic surgery; hair dye
Beckett, Samuel, 241
Beerbohm, Max, 21–22
Ben-Gurion, David, 169, 238
Bénouville, Pierre de, 121–24, 133–38, 164
Bernheim gallery, 179, 181
Berr, Hélène, 119–20
Berr, Raymond, 120
n
Bettencourt, André, 132–36, 151, 156, 176, 177
background of, 126–29, 133
charges against, 143, 164–74, 178
Jewish son-in-law of, 172, 178
marriage of, 236–37, 245
political contributions and, 249, 250–51
power and wealth of, 164–66, 168, 190, 195, 234, 252
resignation from L’Oréal of, 172, 178, 182
Bettencourt-Meyers, Françoise, 135, 228, 240, 245–47
Bettencourt-Schueller, Liliane, 39, 126, 247
birth of, 55
father’s remarriage and, 117
L’Oréal role of, 172, 228, 231
male influences on, 237, 240–53
marriage of, 132, 135, 236–37
mother’s death and, 232–33
Nestlé shares of, 151–52
upbring of, 233–36
wealth inherited by, 165, 190, 231–32, 234, 249–50, 252–53
Beyoncé, 217, 224
BGV (insurance company), 184, 186, 187, 188, 189
Bibliothèque Nationale, 168
Black Manikin Press, 32, 35–36
Blair, Tony, 220
bleached blond hair, 61–62
Bleustein, Marcel, 58, 59, 60
Blum, Léon, 79, 89, 93
bobbed hair, 60–61
body image, 209, 224
Boots (pharmacy), 202
Borotra, Jean, 107
Borradaile, Mrs., 197–98
Botox, 207–8, 209, 222, 223, 225, 228
Bouvyer, Jean, 175
Bow, Clara, 60
brand loyalty, 60
breasts
cosmetic surgery and, 199, 211–15, 229
Schueller regimen for, 73
Breedlove, Sarah, 216
Bresson, Robert, 241
Brinon, Fernand de, 116, 117
Bromberger, Merry, 44, 52, 83–84, 135, 174
Brooks, Louise, 60
Brosnan, Pierce, 229
Brown, Linda, 212–13
Brusset, Max, 121–22, 123
Burrows, Annie, 117–18, 135
Cadum soap, 59
Cagoule, La, 93–97, 100, 101, 133, 158, 174, 175, 176
papers of, 94, 97, 133, 157
trial of, 157, 161, 179, 180–81
Camelots du Roi, 92, 128
Carter, Ernestine, 6–7, 17
Castaing, Madeleine, 243–44, 247
Catholicism, 88–89, 92, 127, 128, 165, 169
CDG company, 154
celluloid, 56–57, 58, 59
CGT trade union, 113
Chagall, Marc, 140
Chanel, Coco, 23, 25, 60–61, 80
Charbonneau, Henry, 88–89, 121, 159
chemical skin peels, 203
Cinzano, 116
Citroën, André, 58
Coiffure de Paris, 52–55, 56, 65–66, 71. See also
Votre Beauté
Colette, 25–26, 72
Colgate-Palmolive, 148–49
collaboration, 80, 81, 87–91, 92, 96–100, 167
n
Bettencourt charges and, 132, 166, 167–69, 173–74
Corrèze trial for, 151, 155–56, 157, 159–63, 178–81
dégradation nationale
sentence and, 161
épuration
(trials) for, 112–13, 118, 173–74
French establishment amnesia about, 173–78
Jewish property and, 120–21, 155, 158–59, 181
material impetus for, 90, 115–16, 118
Schueller trials (1946, 1948) for, xii, 52, 91, 99, 102–3, 109–15, 118–19, 121–24, 132–34, 137–38, 161, 162, 174, 250, 253
collagen fillers, 207
Collins, Lauren, 222–23
comb manufacture, 56–57, 58
Communists, 46, 57, 67, 80, 95, 96, 115, 121, 134, 156
Conseil National de la Résistance, 170
Consumer Research, 40–42, 48, 62, 194
n
, 202, 210
Corre, Aristide, 97
Corrèze, Jacques, 143, 147, 151–63, 172–81, 187, 193
death of, 182
Nazi ties of, 159, 178–80, 181
unrepentance of, 179–80
Cosmair, 146, 147, 149, 150, 155
cosmetics
acceptance of, 25, 26–27, 104, 105–6, 225
allergies to, 41
brand loyalty and, 60
expenditures on, 104
historical views of, 2–3, 8
L’Oréal and, 146–47
pricing of, 29–30, 34
psychological effects of, 30
n
, 35, 40, 41–42, 104, 200, 211, 220, 221, 248, 253
social control and, 106, 229
stigma of, 21–22, 41, 198–99, 200–201, 225
working women and, 146
See also
specific types
cosmetic surgery, 16, 32, 199, 200, 203–17, 222, 225
allure of, 209, 213–15
cost of, 206, 214
male-female surgeon ratio and, 226, 228
noninvasive, 206–10
Cot, Pierre, 134
Coty, François, 80
couture, 24, 106, 108, 236
Croix de Feu movement, 80, 92, 93
Croix de Guerre, 56, 164
Curie, Eve, 47
Curie, Irène, 115
Curie, Marie, 11, 46, 47
Daladier, Édouard, 79
Dalí, Salvador, 28
Dalle, François, 85, 112
background of, 126–30, 133
Corrèze scandal and, 143, 156, 161, 164, 177, 180
Frydman deal and, 154–56, 174, 250
L’Oréal and, 130–32, 136, 146–50, 153–54, 174, 182–83
Dangin, Pascal, 222
Darlan, Admiral François, 119
Darling, George E., 61
Darquier de Pellepoix, Louis, 117
Dassault, Marcel (formerly Bloch), 134
n
, 164, 195
Dautresme, Béatrice, 228
Deacon, Gladys, 203–4, 208
Déat, Marcel, 100–101, 112, 122
de Gaulle, Charles, 85, 96, 115, 118, 164, 169, 170, 175
Deloncle, Claude, 160, 175
Deloncle, Eugène, 92, 93–101, 133–34, 155, 158–60, 162, 175, 179, 181
assassination of, 122–23, 160
Deloncle, Louis, 160
Deloncle, Mercédès, 160, 161, 175–76
Depp, Johnny, 241
Digeon, Georges, 112–13
Disraeli, Benjamin, 198
Doncieux, Berthe.
See
Schueller, Berthe
Dongen, Kees van, 196
Dormoy, Marx, 101
Dove soap campaign, 223
Dreyfus affair, 88
D’Souza, Christa, 212
Duchamp, Marcel, 32
Dufy, Raoul, 28
Dulles, Allen, 169, 170
Dunkirk evacuation, 85
Dunlap, Knight, 80–81
Dürr, Luise, 184, 185
Duseigneur, General, 96
Eban, Abba, 169
economic downturns, cosmetic sales and, 35, 210, 211–12
Edwards, John, 220
Egoïste
, 232–33, 235, 241
Elseve shampoo, 182
Engel, Eliot, 168–69, 170, 172, 173
eugenics, 80–81
European Court of Human Rights, 191
European Union, 70, 90
eye makeup, 22, 27
Fabius, Laurent, 176–77
face cream, 196–97
effectiveness of, 202–3
home recipes for, 7–11, 13
markup on, 12–13, 34
products for men, 105, 229
face-lifts, 211–13
Factor, Max, 41, 227
Faisceau movement, 80
false hair pieces, 53–54
fascism, 80, 81, 88
France and, 92–93, 128, 159
Feminine Mystique
,
The
(Friedan), 24, 226, 227
Filliol, Jean, 93, 94, 96, 97, 111
n
, 133–34, 159, 161–62
film industry, 27, 57, 154
See also
actresses
Ford, Henry, 77, 78–79, 84, 87
Franchet d’Espérey, Louis, 94, 95
Franco, Francisco, 79, 162
Free French forces, 121
Free Hold (hair mousse), 150
Freemasons, 88, 89, 94, 95
French Occupation.
See
Occupation
French underground.
See
Resistance
Freudiger brothers, 118
Friedan, Betty, 24, 226, 227
Front National, 132
n
Front Populaire, 101
Frydman, David, 154, 156, 167, 175, 178
Frydman, Jean, 154–57, 161, 163–65, 167–74, 191, 250
Fuller, R. Buckminster, 73
Games, Abram, 104
Garnier, 217
n
Germany, 67, 79, 84, 87
L’Oréal subsidiary, 182–91
See also
Nazis; Occupation
Gesparal, 151–52
Gillies, Sir Harold, 204
Giraud, Henri, 159, 296
Glancey, Lucy, 207, 208–9, 212
Goebbels, Joseph, 106
Goguel, Fabrice, 249–50
Gourielli-Tchkonia, Artchil, 138–39, 140, 237, 238
Grayban (hair dye), 211
Grecian 2000 (hair dye), 229
Greenberg, Michael, 13
n
Greg, William Rathbone, 3
Guerlain, M., 116
Guillemot et Delamotte, 87
Haarfarben un Parfümerien, 183–84, 187, 189
hairdressers, 49–51, 106, 108
commercial salons and, 54, 61
hair dye, 54, 61–63, 210–11
chemistry of, 65–66
first safe, 40, 42, 48–51
justifications for, 107–8, 210
men and, 84, 229
warning/antidote, 62–63
hairstyles, 40, 53–54, 60–62
mousse and, 150
straightening products, 216
Harispe, Michel, 162
“Heaven Sent” (fragance), 60
Helena Rubinstein, Inc.
assets of, 146
Colgate-Palmolive purchase of, 148–49
Israeli subsidiary of, 152, 153, 155
Lehman Brothers purchase/Rubinstein buyback of, 34–37, 64, 138
L’Oreal takeover of, xii, 40, 146–55, 162–63, 172, 174, 180, 181–83, 193
men’s toiletries and, 104–5
private ownership of, 147–48
Rubinstein’s death and, 146–48
sales staff of, 30–31
World War II profits of, 104–5
Hemingway, Ernest, 36
“Herbal Tissue” cream, 202
Hirschberg, Pauline, 16
Hirschfeld, Magnus, 73
Hitler, Adolf, 103, 106, 114, 115, 123, 128
admirers of, 78–79, 81, 84, 87
Hollay, Rosa, 23, 25, 26, 28, 33, 64
hooks, bell, 216–17
Hopkins, Ruth, 148
hormone treatment, 73
Horowitz, Vladimir, 241
House of Gourielli, 104
Huffner, Mlle., 119
Huntington, Collis P., 33
“Imédia” (hair dye), 62
“Inecto” (hair dye), 210–11
Interbeauty, 153, 182
Israel, State of, 169
Frydman and, 154, 156
Rubinstein and, 141–42, 152, 153, 155, 162–63, 181, 182
See also
Arab boycott
Jeunes Patriotes, 93
Jeunesse française
,
Une
(Péan), 165
Jews, 17, 95, 197, 198
French Occupation and, 117, 118–21, 134
n
, 155, 158–59, 163, 179, 181
German restitution payments to, 188
Nazi property appropriation and, 184, 186–91
Rubinstein’s background and, xii, 4–5, 139–42, 180, 181, 234
See also
anti-Semitism
Joan of Arc, 236
John Lewis Partnership, 70
n
Joliot-Curie, Frédéric, 46, 47, 48, 115, 116–18
Joseph, Jacques, 204
JRSO (Jewish Restitution Successor Organization), 186, 187, 188, 189
KAO (Japanese company), 149
Karlsruhe, 183–84, 186, 188, 190
Kémoularia, Claude de, 153
Kiki’s Memoirs
(book), 36
Klarsfeld, Serge, 163, 168
Koestler, Arthur, 185
n
Kogan, M., 119
Kolin, Oskar, 147, 148
Korman, Charles, 189, 190
Krakow, 4, 5, 15–16, 17, 141
Krummacher, Dr., 102
Lady Chatterley’s Lover
(Lawrence), 35–36
Lamy family, 162
Lang, Fritz, 66
Lanvin, Jeanne, 138
L’Arcouest (Breton village), 47–48, 84, 115, 131, 132
Lauder, Estée, 8, 140, 227
Laurencie, General de la, 99
Laurencin, Marie, 28