Read Ultimate Baseball Road Trip Online
Authors: Josh Pahigian,Kevin O’Connell
Ultimate Baseball Road Trip (65 page)
Light Rail Info:
www.portauthority.org/PAAC/CustomerInfo/BuswaysandT/LightRailTransitSystem/tabid/186/Default.aspx
If you’re on the south side and you have an extra $10 burning a hole in your pocket, a great way to get to the game is by taking the Gateway Clipper, a passenger ferry system that departs from Station Square. You can park or take the “T” there, then ride a ferry across all three of “the Burgh’s” famous rivers: the Monongahela, the Ohio, and the Allegheny. The line gets pretty crowded at the Station Square dock before the game and at the dock along the Riverwalk afterward, so plan ahead. But then again, there are plenty of places to go out in Station Square, and someone else is driving the ferryboat, so relax and have a brew or two during or after the game.
PNC offers tours beginning in mid-April. You can schedule a tour by calling the tour hotline at (412) 325-4700, or by e-mailing
[email protected]
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THE CLEMENTE BRIDGE
Whether or not you park downtown, walking across the Roberto Clemente Bridge is an essential part of the ballpark experience when visiting PNC. Formerly known as the Sixth Street Bridge, this steel cable-suspension bridge is one of three similar bridges that cross the Allegheny and date from the mid-1920s. They are collectively known as the Three Sisters and are an essential part of the beauty of the skyline, all painted yellow.
Before, during, and after each game, the city closes the Clemente Bridge and connecting Federal Street that runs in front of PNC to car traffic, making them pedestrian-only areas that truly become part of the ballpark. You’ll find street musicians and people hawking tickets, peanuts, Pirates banners, shirts, and memorabilia. We’ll be honest, we saw quite a bit of Steelers paraphernalia on sale as we crossed, too. As you cross the Allegheny you’re treated to a wonderful view of the park, the river, and the city. The bridge ends at the ballpark where there stands an impressive statue of Clemente.
Equally important as crossing the bridge is walking under it along the Riverwalk. This long stretch of developed embankment along the Allegheny will make you further appreciate the urban renaissance that the north side has undergone in the past few years. The bulkhead that embanks the ballpark was built during the construction of the park and is made of the same Minnesota limestone as PNC. The archways that decorate the embankments were designed to recall those that surrounded Forbes Field. And don’t forget, the Riverwalk is just beyond the right-field wall and is the place players are trying to hit with long fly balls during batting practice. Boating ball fans will travel up the rivers of the Burgh to moor their crafts along the Riverwalk prior to games, with the hope of catching one on the bounce, or one delivered right to their craft. But in order to hit the water, a ball must travel at least 443 feet from home plate. And only a few have managed this feat. Daryl Ward of Houston remains the only player to ever hit a ball into the Allegheny on the fly during an official game. Ward did it on July 6, 2002, while playing for Houston. Kip Wells was the pitcher who gave up the blast.
The only players to have sort of matched the feat did it during the Home Run Derby when the 2006 All Star Game was held at PNC. It was the fifth time Pittsburgh hosted the Mid-Summer Classic (twice at Forbes Field and twice at Three Rivers) and the five blasts that sailed over the right-field wall and into the Allegheny rang out like cannon fire that evening, but still paled in comparison to Ward having accomplished it during an actual game.
A walk around the entirety of the ballpark footprint reveals four statues honoring the greatest Pirates to ever don the gold and black.
Clemente’s statue is the first you’ll encounter crossing the Bridge and originally was erected at Three Rivers. Engravings beneath his figure list important dates spanning his outstanding life and career, right up until the date of his tragic death in a plane crash. He was bringing relief supplies to earthquake-torn Nicaragua. Clemente was more than one of the greatest ballplayers to play the game. He was a humanitarian and a graceful man who never forgot his roots—a citizen of the world, and one of those people who make you proud to be a human being. The Pirates have done well to honor him thusly.
Along Federal Street is the statue of Wilver “Willie” Stargell. Loved by the city first, and then by the nation, Pops is shown ready to put his ample frame fully into his mighty cut, as he did for a career mark of 475 home runs. Sadly, on April 1, 2001, PNC’s Grand Opening and the day of the statue’s premiere, Stargell passed away at sixty-one years of age from longterm health complications. “Pops” will never be forgotten as long as PNC stands.
Beneath Pop’s feet are the “Bucco Bricks” that fans purchased for minimum donations of one dollar, that now bear their engraved names. All money gathered by the project went toward construction of the ballpark.
The third statue, a fourteen-and-a-half-foot depiction of Bill Mazeroski, was erected in September 2010 to commemorate perhaps the greatest moment in Pirates history—Game 7 of the 1960 World Series against the Yankees. With the Bronx Bombers favored to win, the game was tied 9-9 heading to the bottom of the ninth inning. Leading off against Ralph Terry, Maz knocked the second pitch over the ivy-covered wall to bring the title home to Pittsburgh. The statue depicts Maz as he rounded second base after hitting his dinger, leaping into the air and waving his hat around in circles as he navigated his way through the fans who littered the field. Many people, even outside Pittsburgh, still consider this one of the greatest World Series ever played. Maz, always the gentleman and humble as can be, became very emotional at the unveiling of the statue, stating he always knew that his team would have won that game even if he didn’t hit that home run. Well, he did. And Pittsburgh cannot forget it. For more on that fateful “Shot heard round the Burgh,” check out the segment below on visiting the location of Forbes Field.
The final statue stands near the west entrance. Honus Wagner was perhaps the greatest Pirate of them all. Wagner won eight batting titles and was a member of the first class of inductees to the Baseball Hall of Fame, along with Babe Ruth, Ty Cobb, Walter Johnson, and Christy Mathewson. Not bad company. This statue stood in Schenley Park near Forbes Field, and at Three Rivers previously.
To honor the remaining Pirate greats, banners extend around the entire exterior block, emblazoned with names like Ralph Kiner, Arky Vaughan, Vern Law, Chuck Tanner, and Tony Pena. John Candelaria has his own banner, too. The “Candy Man” threw the first no-hitter in front of a Pittsburgh crowd on August 9, 1976, blanking the Dodgers 2–0. It was the five hundredth game for the Pirates at Three Rivers. Also honored on the banner walk are Francisco Cordova (nine innings) and Ricardo Rincon (one inning), who combined to hurl the first multi-pitcher extra-inning no-hitter, on July 12, 1997, against the Astros, before a capacity crowd at Three Rivers.
The Clemente Museum
3339 Penn Ave.
No baseball trip to Pittsburgh would be complete without a stop at the Roberto Clemente museum. This museum is open by appointment only, so visit the website or call ahead. The proprietor is Duane Rieder, who besides being a highly accomplished photographer and baseball superfan has, with the help of the Clemente family, put together the world’s finest collection of photographs, uniforms, Gold Glove awards, letters, baseball cards, and everything else under the sun that you could imagine relating to Clemente. If you have any love of baseball or humanity in general, you will seek out this museum. As it says on the website: “All will leave inspired.”
Heinz History Center
1212 Smallman St.
A surprisingly short walk from the ballpark (a mile or so) is a comprehensive museum of sports in Western PA, a region fairly well obsessed with its residents’ sporting lives.
Also worth seeking out in the city is the intersection of Ross Street, Court Place, and Second Avenue under a bridge overpass. A wonderful mural has been painted here honoring all of Pittsburgh’s baseball players from the Pirates to the Crawfords and Grays. The Art Institute of Pittsburgh presented the mural to the city in 2000. It features Honus Wagner, Willie Stargell, Roberto Clemente, Josh Gibson, and many others all standing together on the same field of dreams.
PNC Park has managed to deliver what so many other parks have promised and failed to bring about: an economic boon to the surrounding area in the form of good places to eat and drink that have risen out of a vast sea of parking lots. A dozen restaurant/pubs, three hotels, a couple of sports stores, and even an outdoor music venue have popped up since the opening of PNC. Okay, some of the development is the result of Heinz Field (home of the NFL Steelers) as well, but you get the point. Besides that, there is no shortage of places to get a drink in this town.
101 Federal St.
Not the best slice you’ll ever have, but not too shabby, either. Diamond offers a nice selection of pregame grub for those who want to get into the ballpark quickly so they can snag a batting practice ball. We recommend the four cheese.
103 Federal St.
This is part of a local chain of moderately expensive restaurants, but with a twist. Local Rock-n-Roll legend Johnny Angel (Jerry Lee Lewis era, that is) is the owner. Johnny is usually in the place. You’ll recognize him by the platinum blonde pompadour and colorful jacket. He and his band, The Halos, operate this Atrias as their own personal Hard Rock Café, with guitars and trademark jackets on the walls. The band often plays in the restaurant and hosts other bands as well. The food? It’s good enough, but not cheap. Like Johnny Angel himself, your parents would like this place a lot.
115 Federal St.
This space used to be an Outback Steakhouse. They’ve converted it into club seating for all ticket holders. Unlike the actual Club Level, it’s out in left field. But hey, what do you want for nothing? This would be a great place to host a party or a Little League sports banquet. The food is unremarkable, but if you do go, try the crab fries appetizer.
115 Federal St.
Of all the choices of places to go out on this strip attached to the ballpark, we recommend Dominic’s. It’s a delicatessen that might not be as famous as the name suggests, but it should be. Meat and cheese are piled high on sandwiches made of soft and fresh breads. The hot dogs are good too. And don’t forget the bottle shop, which sells more than grape soda.
200 Federal St.
http://mullensbarandgrill.com/pittsburgh/
This pseudo-Irish pub imported from Wrigleyville now occupies prime real estate outside the ballpark on the corner of Federal and General Robinson Streets. A selection of pizza, burgers, and other pub grub will feed the pregame munchies and is relatively inexpensive, but not distinctive. The specialty of the house has to be the Italian beef, which is recommended. The offerings may be more Chicago than Pittsburgh, but Pittsburghers have room for another sandwich in their hearts.
203 Federal St.
From the outside, this looks like it might be a yuppie hellhole. But it’s not. One part sports bar, one part hotel restaurant, it suffers from a bit of a dual-personality. But there are plenty of beers on the list and the menu has some decent food. It is however a bit on the frilly end of pregame options.
208 Federal St.
This looks like the kind of place mindless frat boys go before the game, and it is. One of the cheaper places to get a beer near the ballpark, you had better get a seat at the bar early if you plan on drinking before a game.
20 E. General Robinson St.
Finnegan’s Wake has come a long way since we published our first ballpark guide. It’s grown into a decent little (read: BIG) Irish pub, with traditional Irish music and a staff that has learned to pour a nice pint of Guinness. The food is good, as Irish food goes, but we recommend doing what the Irish do—drink your meal and eat later at the ballpark.