Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers (8 page)
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Authors: Terry Hope Romero
BOOK: Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers
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You could make every recipe in this book without any of these specialty items. But you and your kitchen will be all the more interesting with a lovely tortilla press or a pretty
comal
on your stove. Most Latin cooking equipment (at least the most basic models) is really cheap, so why the heck not have a
churrera
or a
tostonera
?
comal
on your stove. Most Latin cooking equipment (at least the most basic models) is really cheap, so why the heck not have a
churrera
or a
tostonera
?
Tortilla press:
I have an aluminum one scored from Chinatown, NYC, of all places. It even says “tortilla press” on it to dispel any doubts and has two round plates with a hinged handle that snap together to turn masa dough into ready-to-grill tortillas in mere seconds. Built-to-last cast iron versions are available, too.
I have an aluminum one scored from Chinatown, NYC, of all places. It even says “tortilla press” on it to dispel any doubts and has two round plates with a hinged handle that snap together to turn masa dough into ready-to-grill tortillas in mere seconds. Built-to-last cast iron versions are available, too.
Tortilla warmer:
Probably the least important Latin gadget. If you’ve ever ordered fajitas in a Mexican restaurant at a mall, you’ve seen these round lidded boxes. Oddly enough, I do end up using my tortilla warmer for other things, such as letting freshly grilled chiles rest (to self-steam the skins for peeling) or hiding cookies from unsuspecting housemates (oh well, time to find another hiding place). Some warmers can be popped into the microwave or oven for a fast method for reheating a stack of cold tortillas.
Probably the least important Latin gadget. If you’ve ever ordered fajitas in a Mexican restaurant at a mall, you’ve seen these round lidded boxes. Oddly enough, I do end up using my tortilla warmer for other things, such as letting freshly grilled chiles rest (to self-steam the skins for peeling) or hiding cookies from unsuspecting housemates (oh well, time to find another hiding place). Some warmers can be popped into the microwave or oven for a fast method for reheating a stack of cold tortillas.
Tostonera:
Looks like a hinged wooden paddle, rectangular or round. It functions kind of like a tortilla press but for squashing fried plantains before the second frying. Not essential for making
tostones
but fun to use, plus it makes them more consistent in shape and size.
Tostoneras
can be made of supercheap and flimsy wood, but may also be found crafted from long-lasting bamboo or plastic, for many years of fried plantain joy.
Looks like a hinged wooden paddle, rectangular or round. It functions kind of like a tortilla press but for squashing fried plantains before the second frying. Not essential for making
tostones
but fun to use, plus it makes them more consistent in shape and size.
Tostoneras
can be made of supercheap and flimsy wood, but may also be found crafted from long-lasting bamboo or plastic, for many years of fried plantain joy.
Churrera:
Churros are already special, so why not seal the deal with a special churro maker? Well, not as in a person who lives in your kitchen and makes churros (Mom deserves a break!). A
churrera
is a plastic press that makes pressing churro dough fast and easy. See Churros (page 223) for more
churrera
talk.
Churros are already special, so why not seal the deal with a special churro maker? Well, not as in a person who lives in your kitchen and makes churros (Mom deserves a break!). A
churrera
is a plastic press that makes pressing churro dough fast and easy. See Churros (page 223) for more
churrera
talk.
Kitchen twine
, white cotton, is useful when making tamales and is sometimes located near the tamale-making section of your local supermarket. No such section (yet)? Many Latin stores keep it in the produce aisle or with the paper goods.
, white cotton, is useful when making tamales and is sometimes located near the tamale-making section of your local supermarket. No such section (yet)? Many Latin stores keep it in the produce aisle or with the paper goods.
Parchment paper
for tamales is pretty much just that. It is sold cut into large squares as “
papel para tamales
” and is water and grease resistant and useful if you’re all out of corn husks. Usually cheap enough, it’s worth buying for just tamale making, as parchment paper for baking can be more costly.
for tamales is pretty much just that. It is sold cut into large squares as “
papel para tamales
” and is water and grease resistant and useful if you’re all out of corn husks. Usually cheap enough, it’s worth buying for just tamale making, as parchment paper for baking can be more costly.
Comal
,
budare
, or other wide pan for grilling tortillas, arepas, or for even making things like
cachapas
.
Comals
are Mexican/ Central American and are often oval shaped or sometimes round with a long handle.
Budares
, found in Caribbean countries and parts of South America, are round with a small bumplike handle that has a little hole. Cheap ones are aluminum; better quality are made from cast iron. If you’re thinking that you can just use your cast-iron skillet instead, you are 110 percent right. Somewhere I even have a vintage
budare
passed down from my aunt, which I should use to make arepas . . . and I will when I find it! (Just don’t tell my aunt, okay?)
,
budare
, or other wide pan for grilling tortillas, arepas, or for even making things like
cachapas
.
Comals
are Mexican/ Central American and are often oval shaped or sometimes round with a long handle.
Budares
, found in Caribbean countries and parts of South America, are round with a small bumplike handle that has a little hole. Cheap ones are aluminum; better quality are made from cast iron. If you’re thinking that you can just use your cast-iron skillet instead, you are 110 percent right. Somewhere I even have a vintage
budare
passed down from my aunt, which I should use to make arepas . . . and I will when I find it! (Just don’t tell my aunt, okay?)
PART II
THE RECIPES
1
A FEW ESSENTIAL LATINO VEGAN RECIPES
E
veryone needs a few basic recipes to use in everything from simple snacks or entire meals. This chapter is a little collection of essential recipes—
sofrito
, annatto oil, and seitan (easy, steamed “meat from wheat”)—that contribute to so many satisfying “meaty” Latin vegan dishes in this book. There’s even a seitan chorizo-style sausage—(okay, perhaps it’s a little beyond basic but nevertheless, a flavorful element to sink your teeth into). Diced and fried, it makes a tasty addition to just about any savory meal in this book.
veryone needs a few basic recipes to use in everything from simple snacks or entire meals. This chapter is a little collection of essential recipes—
sofrito
, annatto oil, and seitan (easy, steamed “meat from wheat”)—that contribute to so many satisfying “meaty” Latin vegan dishes in this book. There’s even a seitan chorizo-style sausage—(okay, perhaps it’s a little beyond basic but nevertheless, a flavorful element to sink your teeth into). Diced and fried, it makes a tasty addition to just about any savory meal in this book.
You can, of course, substitute premade seitan for homemade, but I encourage you to give homemade a try just once; it requires just a few minutes of mixing and half an hour of steaming on the stove.
All of these basic recipes can be made days, weeks, or, in the case of the annatto oil, months in advance.
•
Makes ½ cup oil•
Time: Less than 10 minutes•
Gluten Free, Soy Free
Annatto seeds, known as achiote, are as all-American a seasoning as you may ever hope to find. Annatto trees are native to the tropical Americas and the seeds are a natural powerhouse of bright orange color. Achiote-infused oil is used in Latin American cooking to add a vibrant splash of red-orange to rice, soups, breads, tamales, and beyond. My
papá
makes an occasional batch to tint empanada dough. The flavor of annatto is very subtle, perhaps a little nutty, so you don’t have to worry about it clashing with other elements in your recipes.
papá
makes an occasional batch to tint empanada dough. The flavor of annatto is very subtle, perhaps a little nutty, so you don’t have to worry about it clashing with other elements in your recipes.
Making this oil takes only a few minutes and it lasts forever stashed away in the spice cabinet. If you prefer ground achiote seeds, as a general rule, use 1 tablespoon of oil for every ½ teaspoon of ground achiote seeds.
Tip:
For neater pouring, place a funnel into the mouth of the jar or bottle, then top with the strainer and pour the oil through!
For neater pouring, place a funnel into the mouth of the jar or bottle, then top with the strainer and pour the oil through!
2 tablespoons annatto (achiote) seeds
½ cup mild vegetable oil, such as canola
or grapeseed or light olive oil
1. Combine the annatto seeds and vegetable oil in a small saucepan. Bring the oil to a simmer over medium-low heat, then lower the heat to low. Simmer for 2 to 3 minutes, until oil turns a very dark orange. Remove from the heat and let cool completely. Using a fine-mesh metal strainer, strain the oil into a small, clean glass jar and cap tightly. Discard the seeds. Annatto oil can be stored at room temperature and lasts almost forever.
About AchioteY
ou just might be able to find achiote in paste form on your Latin grocer’s shelves. It’s convenient and works easily into sauces and moist foods. Don’t cook the paste into oil; it ready to use as is. Substitute 1 to 2 teaspoons of paste for every tablespoon of oil. Just be sure to give the ingredients list a quick glance to make sure it’s not harboring any hidden animal products. You may also find ground achiote powder; use 1 teaspoon per tablespoon of oil.
•
Makes about 1½ cups
sofrito•
Time: About 45 minutes•
Gluten Free, Soy Free
Sofrito
is the soul of so many Latin dishes it behooves you to learn how to make a good one. Simmering onions, peppers, and garlic in oil (plenty of it!) for a long time transforms them into a richly sweet and piquant base.
Sofrito
isn’t consumed on its own but is used to create a flavorful foundation for countless dishes. It can be made well in advance, keeps for weeks in the refrigerator (just pour a thin layer of olive oil on the top to help keep it fresh), and is a fast and easy way to add flavor to beans and soups.
is the soul of so many Latin dishes it behooves you to learn how to make a good one. Simmering onions, peppers, and garlic in oil (plenty of it!) for a long time transforms them into a richly sweet and piquant base.
Sofrito
isn’t consumed on its own but is used to create a flavorful foundation for countless dishes. It can be made well in advance, keeps for weeks in the refrigerator (just pour a thin layer of olive oil on the top to help keep it fresh), and is a fast and easy way to add flavor to beans and soups.
½ cup olive oil
6 cloves garlic, peeled and chopped
coarsely
2 pounds green bell peppers, seeded and
chopped finely
2 pounds yellow onions, diced
A generous pinch of salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1. Pour the olive oil into a cast-iron pot or large, heavy skillet and add the garlic, bell peppers, onions, salt, and ground pepper. Over medium-high heat, fry for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Lower the heat to low and fry for another 25 to 30 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the vegetables are very soft and mushy, have released plenty of liquid, and are reduced to about one-third of their original volume.
2. Remove from heat. Use immediately or cool to room temperature, then store refrigerated in a tightly covered container. Be sure to scrape as much liquid and oil as possible from the bottom of the pot as this contains plenty of delicious
sofrito
flavor.
3. Store unused
sofrito
in a tightly covered glass container in the refrigerator. To extend the life of your
sofrito
, spread a thin layer of olive oil on top.
Sofrito
can last up to 2 weeks if kept chilled this way.
Uses:
Sofrito
is used whenever a recipe requires sautéing onion and garlic together in oil before adding the major players (such as more vegetables, proteins, and so on).
Sofrito
is used in these recipes as a base for many soups, rice dishes, and even tofu.
Sofrito
is used whenever a recipe requires sautéing onion and garlic together in oil before adding the major players (such as more vegetables, proteins, and so on).
Sofrito
is used in these recipes as a base for many soups, rice dishes, and even tofu.
Sofrito con Tomate:
Seed and finely dice 1 pound of ripe red tomatoes. Add with the other vegetables. You may need to cook for another 5 to 10 minutes to reduce the
sofrito
more if the tomatoes are especially juicy.
Seed and finely dice 1 pound of ripe red tomatoes. Add with the other vegetables. You may need to cook for another 5 to 10 minutes to reduce the
sofrito
more if the tomatoes are especially juicy.
Sofrito con Cilantro and Achiote:
Substitute Annatto-Infused Oil (page 31) for the olive oil. Stir in 1 cup of firmly packed, finely chopped fresh cilantro (or culantro, see page 19) into the
sofrito
during the last 10 minutes of cooking. A handful of chopped parsley makes a nice addition to this, too.
Substitute Annatto-Infused Oil (page 31) for the olive oil. Stir in 1 cup of firmly packed, finely chopped fresh cilantro (or culantro, see page 19) into the
sofrito
during the last 10 minutes of cooking. A handful of chopped parsley makes a nice addition to this, too.
Sofrito con Ají:
Add 1 to 3 seeded and finely chopped hot chiles with the rest of the vegetables.
Add 1 to 3 seeded and finely chopped hot chiles with the rest of the vegetables.
Try adding 1 to 2 teaspoons of the following spices to your simmering
sofrito
: ground cumin, ground coriander, or sweet or hot ground paprika.
sofrito
: ground cumin, ground coriander, or sweet or hot ground paprika.
Sofrito for the PeopleS
ofrito
can be a time-consuming thing to make. I know that standing over a hot stove frying up peppers and onions doesn’t feel like the first thing you want to do when you get home from the office. If you want to experience some genuine Latin cooking without cooking all that much, there is something be said about grabbing a jar of premade
sofrito
, and lots of people do. But it will never taste as sweet or nuanced as your own homemade
sofrito
.If you’re home on a rainy day, I recommend putting a big pot of
sofrito
on the stove to cook (and steam some seitan, too!) while you catch up with your
telenovelas
or call your parents to hear them complain about how you don’t call enough. Tightly covered, firmly packed
sofrito
keeps for weeks in the fridge and can also be frozen.
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