Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers (3 page)
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Authors: Terry Hope Romero
BOOK: Viva Vegan!: 200 Authentic and Fabulous Recipes for Latin Food Lovers
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A word on heat: Not all Latin American food is spicy or drenched in chilies. Throughout much of the Caribbean and many parts of South America, chilies (often called
ají
) are popular but used with care. In fact, you might even find that some of these foods in their native countries could use a little extra spice. In those cases I’ve included options to “pepper up” things in anticipation of the North Americans’ love of chili-laced Mexican cuisine. But ultimately it’s your kitchen and you can decide how hot you want your recipes to be.
ají
) are popular but used with care. In fact, you might even find that some of these foods in their native countries could use a little extra spice. In those cases I’ve included options to “pepper up” things in anticipation of the North Americans’ love of chili-laced Mexican cuisine. But ultimately it’s your kitchen and you can decide how hot you want your recipes to be.
Sometimes it’s best to leave
mondongo
and
morcilla
to those who really want to eat it (if you don’t know what those are, then well, I’m not going to tell you!). My goal is not to “veganize” every Latin recipe out there. Instead, I’ve taken all of the gorgeous diversity of herbs, spices, vegetables, legumes, and fruits, and intertwined it with these vegan recipes to convey the history, love, and
sabór
of the Latin palate.
mondongo
and
morcilla
to those who really want to eat it (if you don’t know what those are, then well, I’m not going to tell you!). My goal is not to “veganize” every Latin recipe out there. Instead, I’ve taken all of the gorgeous diversity of herbs, spices, vegetables, legumes, and fruits, and intertwined it with these vegan recipes to convey the history, love, and
sabór
of the Latin palate.
Empanadas and tamales are as much an American staple as burgers and apple pie. Eating Latin American food is eating
American
food . . . we all live in the Americas (if you’re on this side of the planet that is). That said, Latin American food has an entire place of its own in the culinary universe. If you’re a Latina and know tortillas but not
arepas
, or are just someone hungry for an additional approach to eating meatless and dairy free, I hope this can be a map on your journey to exploring a few new cultures in the convenience of your own home kitchen.
American
food . . . we all live in the Americas (if you’re on this side of the planet that is). That said, Latin American food has an entire place of its own in the culinary universe. If you’re a Latina and know tortillas but not
arepas
, or are just someone hungry for an additional approach to eating meatless and dairy free, I hope this can be a map on your journey to exploring a few new cultures in the convenience of your own home kitchen.
Enough with the reading, let’s get to cooking (and eating)!
THE VEGAN LATIN PANTRY
N
ow with the formalities out of the way, let’s chat about all of the great ingredients that go into these recipes! Not meant to be an all-inclusive list, this is a rundown of things to have on hand. Some may be old hat to you if cilantro is a regular item in your veggie bin; others could be entirely new, such as
ají amarillo
paste or masa harina. Likewise, some of these ingredients are Latin-food-specific and found in friendly Latin American grocery stores; some are more vegan in nature and may require a trip to the health food store.
ow with the formalities out of the way, let’s chat about all of the great ingredients that go into these recipes! Not meant to be an all-inclusive list, this is a rundown of things to have on hand. Some may be old hat to you if cilantro is a regular item in your veggie bin; others could be entirely new, such as
ají amarillo
paste or masa harina. Likewise, some of these ingredients are Latin-food-specific and found in friendly Latin American grocery stores; some are more vegan in nature and may require a trip to the health food store.
Read through this section, even if just a quick scan, to get an idea of what that next shopping trip should include or if you are already in the clear with certain ingredients. For a handy take-along guide for shopping in Latin markets or health food stores, step over to appendix B. And for suggestions on shopping online for hard-to-find ingredients, see (you guessed it) appendix B again.
I’ve broken down things that don’t need refrigeration into three lists: basic items, Latin ingredients, and vegan stuff. Depending on where you live, this could mean three different shopping trips or just one stop and a thorough taking-stock of the kitchen cupboards.
Both vegans and Latinos need cooking oils or flavorful broths for cooking. Because there is a lot of wiggle room regarding quality of that olive oil or brands of vegetable broth, I leave it up to your excellent personal taste to pick out what you enjoy . It’s likely you may already possess some or all of these ingredients, but be sure to check exactly how much is there before starting a recipe.
Extra-virgin olive oil
is the go-to olive oil especially in salads and uncooked items. More refined oils such as
virgin olive oil
and
olive oil blends
are less costly and easy to buy in bulk, but you might sacrifice a little flavor. Some like to reserve the more expensive extra-virgin oil where the flavor will more likely be savored, such as in salad dressings or drizzled on top of soup, and use cheaper oils for pan-frying.
is the go-to olive oil especially in salads and uncooked items. More refined oils such as
virgin olive oil
and
olive oil blends
are less costly and easy to buy in bulk, but you might sacrifice a little flavor. Some like to reserve the more expensive extra-virgin oil where the flavor will more likely be savored, such as in salad dressings or drizzled on top of soup, and use cheaper oils for pan-frying.
Peanut oil
,
canola oil
,
grapeseed oil
, and
coconut oil
are used to approximate other flavors in Latin American cooking. Peanut oil is superb for deep- and pan-frying and its aroma complements strong flavors such as hot chiles or tomatoes. Use canola for baking, frying, or where a light-tasting oil is needed. Grapeseed is very light and right for salads when the flavor of olive oil may overwhelm other ingredients. Coconut oil is used in some Latin dishes and is occasionally called for in these recipes. Look for organic, unhydrogenated natural coconut oil. Use refined coconut oil if you don’t want a coconut flavor . . . unrefined coconut oil has a pronounced coconut aroma.
,
canola oil
,
grapeseed oil
, and
coconut oil
are used to approximate other flavors in Latin American cooking. Peanut oil is superb for deep- and pan-frying and its aroma complements strong flavors such as hot chiles or tomatoes. Use canola for baking, frying, or where a light-tasting oil is needed. Grapeseed is very light and right for salads when the flavor of olive oil may overwhelm other ingredients. Coconut oil is used in some Latin dishes and is occasionally called for in these recipes. Look for organic, unhydrogenated natural coconut oil. Use refined coconut oil if you don’t want a coconut flavor . . . unrefined coconut oil has a pronounced coconut aroma.
Shortening
and
margarine
come into play when making tamales or baked goods. Both once had a bad rap sheet with nasty stuff like hydrogenated fats and chemicals, but some have since evolved to meet the needs of today’s healthier chef who still appreciates a “buttery” cookie or rich, tender piecrust. These are useful ingredients in Latin cooking as they both step in for lard—the favored fat for tamales and flour tortillas—in very traditional recipes. Look for new brands of shortening and margarine that are labeled free of trans fats and nonhydrogenated, and make sure that they’re also vegan (some brands think it’s cool to pump up margarine with whey or other milk solids). As of this writing Spectrum and Earth Balance are two common and excellent vegan brands; the latter is also available in a handy solid stick form.
and
margarine
come into play when making tamales or baked goods. Both once had a bad rap sheet with nasty stuff like hydrogenated fats and chemicals, but some have since evolved to meet the needs of today’s healthier chef who still appreciates a “buttery” cookie or rich, tender piecrust. These are useful ingredients in Latin cooking as they both step in for lard—the favored fat for tamales and flour tortillas—in very traditional recipes. Look for new brands of shortening and margarine that are labeled free of trans fats and nonhydrogenated, and make sure that they’re also vegan (some brands think it’s cool to pump up margarine with whey or other milk solids). As of this writing Spectrum and Earth Balance are two common and excellent vegan brands; the latter is also available in a handy solid stick form.
Long-grain white rice
is king in Latin American cooking and can be enjoyed with just about any Latin cuisine. Delicious and versatile organic long-grain white can be found lots of places; even the old-guard Latin grocery brand Goya is on the organic kick! I personally love to use nontraditional aromatic basmati hybrids (such as California basmati or Texmati) for my own home cooking, as the consistency is similar to white long-grain rice, plus they have a mouth-watering buttered-popcorn aroma, without the need of cows or corn. The only kinds of rice I suggest to refrain from using in these Latin recipes are Asian short-grain rice, risotto rice (unless called for), and sticky/ sushi-type rice.
is king in Latin American cooking and can be enjoyed with just about any Latin cuisine. Delicious and versatile organic long-grain white can be found lots of places; even the old-guard Latin grocery brand Goya is on the organic kick! I personally love to use nontraditional aromatic basmati hybrids (such as California basmati or Texmati) for my own home cooking, as the consistency is similar to white long-grain rice, plus they have a mouth-watering buttered-popcorn aroma, without the need of cows or corn. The only kinds of rice I suggest to refrain from using in these Latin recipes are Asian short-grain rice, risotto rice (unless called for), and sticky/ sushi-type rice.
Long-grain brown rice
can also be used in these dishes, keeping in mind that the total liquid content and cooking time will increase quite a bit (usually doubled).
can also be used in these dishes, keeping in mind that the total liquid content and cooking time will increase quite a bit (usually doubled).
Vegetable broth
makes for moister and more flavorful casseroles, stir-fries and sauces. (Use it as broth in soups, too, of course.) Unless you really love making your own vegetable broth, use boxed broth or even broth reconstituted from vegetarian bouillon cubes. Try different brands to find one you like. Use low-sodium broth, if you prefer. There are also good “chicken”flavored vegan cubes, and vegetable broth in a handy concentrated paste form (Better Than Boullion brand, for one) that’s concentrated enough that it can easily be stored in the fridge but makes many quarts of broth whenever you need it. In general, avoid brands that have artificial additives or monosodium glutamate (MSG).
makes for moister and more flavorful casseroles, stir-fries and sauces. (Use it as broth in soups, too, of course.) Unless you really love making your own vegetable broth, use boxed broth or even broth reconstituted from vegetarian bouillon cubes. Try different brands to find one you like. Use low-sodium broth, if you prefer. There are also good “chicken”flavored vegan cubes, and vegetable broth in a handy concentrated paste form (Better Than Boullion brand, for one) that’s concentrated enough that it can easily be stored in the fridge but makes many quarts of broth whenever you need it. In general, avoid brands that have artificial additives or monosodium glutamate (MSG).
White wine
and
red wine
are a flavorful cooking liquid that I love to use when deglazing (page 261) a sauté pan. The cheap stuff is perfect! Some wines might be filtered with animal-based ingredients, so just be sure to choose a certifiably vegan wine for your cooking needs. One handy site that can confirm the veganness of your wine is
barnivore.com
.
and
red wine
are a flavorful cooking liquid that I love to use when deglazing (page 261) a sauté pan. The cheap stuff is perfect! Some wines might be filtered with animal-based ingredients, so just be sure to choose a certifiably vegan wine for your cooking needs. One handy site that can confirm the veganness of your wine is
barnivore.com
.
Red wine vinegar
and
white wine vinegar
are widely used as seasonings in Latin cuisine. Just a tablespoon in a bean soup can help sharpen flavors and provide a perfect contrast to the spicy and earthy flavors present in lots of Latin foods. If you prefer something a little milder,
rice vinegar
can be substituted, or if you don’t mind and have a big bottle of it already (since it has dozens of household uses), plain
white distilled vinegar
is a sharp and tangy addition to recipes.
Malt vinegar
is fine for use in soups or spicy marinades, as the malty flavors are compatible with salty or strong flavors. The only vinegar I don’t recommend for Latin cooking is apple cider vinegar. Although it’s the darling of health food cooking, I find that the strong cider aroma and flavor can overwhelm and just doesn’t taste right with these foods.
and
white wine vinegar
are widely used as seasonings in Latin cuisine. Just a tablespoon in a bean soup can help sharpen flavors and provide a perfect contrast to the spicy and earthy flavors present in lots of Latin foods. If you prefer something a little milder,
rice vinegar
can be substituted, or if you don’t mind and have a big bottle of it already (since it has dozens of household uses), plain
white distilled vinegar
is a sharp and tangy addition to recipes.
Malt vinegar
is fine for use in soups or spicy marinades, as the malty flavors are compatible with salty or strong flavors. The only vinegar I don’t recommend for Latin cooking is apple cider vinegar. Although it’s the darling of health food cooking, I find that the strong cider aroma and flavor can overwhelm and just doesn’t taste right with these foods.
Beer
is remarkable not just for drinking—and in an ice-cold Michelada (page 220 an yone?)—but
fantastico
when used in marinades, as a substitute for vegetable broth in rice dishes, or even incorporated into hearty stews. I can’t say enough about the flavor boost beer can bring to foods, especially spicy or garlicky dishes. Mexican beer is my go-to beer for cooking Latin stuff and most commonly available brands, such as Corona, Dos Equis, and Presidente, are vegan as of this writing.
is remarkable not just for drinking—and in an ice-cold Michelada (page 220 an yone?)—but
fantastico
when used in marinades, as a substitute for vegetable broth in rice dishes, or even incorporated into hearty stews. I can’t say enough about the flavor boost beer can bring to foods, especially spicy or garlicky dishes. Mexican beer is my go-to beer for cooking Latin stuff and most commonly available brands, such as Corona, Dos Equis, and Presidente, are vegan as of this writing.
Liquid smoke
is my most favorite of sneaky flavoring ingredients. Entirely vegan and made by distilling wood smoke with water (sounds amazingly alchemical!), a shake or two into beans or marinades imparts a delicate smoky flavor that stands in nicely for bacon or ham.
Vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
, our vegan stand-in for its not-so-vegan counterpart, is used in many Latin countries, where it is called
salsa ingles
, as a common seasoning for beans, rice, and other savory dishes. Even
soy sauce
shows up in some cuisines (such as the Japanese and Chinese influences in Peruvian food) and, of course, since we’re vegans we just can’t get enough of the stuff, plus it helps flavor and balance such soy foods as tofu and tempeh. I like to use mild Chinese-style light soy sauce in Latin recipes (save the tamari and shoyu for Japanese cuisine, please).
is my most favorite of sneaky flavoring ingredients. Entirely vegan and made by distilling wood smoke with water (sounds amazingly alchemical!), a shake or two into beans or marinades imparts a delicate smoky flavor that stands in nicely for bacon or ham.
Vegetarian Worcestershire sauce
, our vegan stand-in for its not-so-vegan counterpart, is used in many Latin countries, where it is called
salsa ingles
, as a common seasoning for beans, rice, and other savory dishes. Even
soy sauce
shows up in some cuisines (such as the Japanese and Chinese influences in Peruvian food) and, of course, since we’re vegans we just can’t get enough of the stuff, plus it helps flavor and balance such soy foods as tofu and tempeh. I like to use mild Chinese-style light soy sauce in Latin recipes (save the tamari and shoyu for Japanese cuisine, please).
Freshly ground black pepper
is habit forming and not too expensive as far as habits go. For a few bucks, a decent pepper mill and a bag of mixed peppercorns bring endless moments of pepper-grinding joy.
is habit forming and not too expensive as far as habits go. For a few bucks, a decent pepper mill and a bag of mixed peppercorns bring endless moments of pepper-grinding joy.
Salt
is also a personal preference item. I use two kinds of salt: coarse
kosher salt
is great for general all-purpose cooking, but I still use
granulated table salt
for baking. If you choose to use kosher salt, use just a teeny bit more than table salt, as it has more volume because of its flaky texture.
Sea salt
is a tasty all-purpose salt for all of you gourmet hippies out there.
is also a personal preference item. I use two kinds of salt: coarse
kosher salt
is great for general all-purpose cooking, but I still use
granulated table salt
for baking. If you choose to use kosher salt, use just a teeny bit more than table salt, as it has more volume because of its flaky texture.
Sea salt
is a tasty all-purpose salt for all of you gourmet hippies out there.
It used to be that a drive to the health food store was necessary to get tofu or soy milk, but now it seems any generously stocked supermarket or corner grocery will have many of these items.
¡Viva la vegan revolución!
¡Viva la vegan revolución!
Nondairy milk
is a generic term for your choice of
soy milk
,
rice milk
,
almond milk
,
oat milk
,
hazelnut milk
,
hemp milk
, or other nut-based milk in these recipes. Excellent commercial brands now exist for all of these milks and it’s worth trying a few to see which one you like. I’ll list my preference for the type of milk in the recipe, but if you hate, say, almond milk, switch it to hemp or oat or whatever floats your boat. This flexibility of substitution, however, excludes coconut milk or soy creamer . . . which will be listed specifically and unequivocably if a recipe calls for it.
is a generic term for your choice of
soy milk
,
rice milk
,
almond milk
,
oat milk
,
hazelnut milk
,
hemp milk
, or other nut-based milk in these recipes. Excellent commercial brands now exist for all of these milks and it’s worth trying a few to see which one you like. I’ll list my preference for the type of milk in the recipe, but if you hate, say, almond milk, switch it to hemp or oat or whatever floats your boat. This flexibility of substitution, however, excludes coconut milk or soy creamer . . . which will be listed specifically and unequivocably if a recipe calls for it.
Here are my own personal preferences for using nondairy milks: I like to use
soy milk
mostly for baking and making flan, as it contains plenty of protein to help provide structure and body to the final product. I adore
almond milk
and use it when a baked good doesn’t need much nondairy milk, say a tablespoon or two. And it makes a killer
horchata
and delightful
arroz con leche
. For a thick creamy
café con leche
or for use in vegan ice cream, I like
hemp milk
,
hazelnut
milk, or the new
coconut
-based drinking milk So Delicious Coconut Milk Beverage. And
rice milks
are a favorite for
merengadas
or for any sweet and delicate smoothie.
soy milk
mostly for baking and making flan, as it contains plenty of protein to help provide structure and body to the final product. I adore
almond milk
and use it when a baked good doesn’t need much nondairy milk, say a tablespoon or two. And it makes a killer
horchata
and delightful
arroz con leche
. For a thick creamy
café con leche
or for use in vegan ice cream, I like
hemp milk
,
hazelnut
milk, or the new
coconut
-based drinking milk So Delicious Coconut Milk Beverage. And
rice milks
are a favorite for
merengadas
or for any sweet and delicate smoothie.
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