PRAISE FOR:
Veganomicon
“Exuberant and unapologetic . . . recipes don’t skimp on fat or flavor, and the eclectic collection of dishes is a testament to the authors’ sincere love of cooking and culinary exploration.”
—
Saveur
“This is vegan cooking at its best.”
—
Vegetarian Times
“Full of recipes for which even a carnivore would give up a night of meat.”
—
San Francisco Chronicle
“Seriously good recipes with broad appeal.”—
Washington Post
Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar
“[A] winning collection of vegan cookie recipes that should appeal to vegans and nonvegans alike.... Decadent recipes . . . show that you can be vegan and still indulge in delicious treats.”
—
Publishers Weekly
“Moskowitz and Romero are icons in the vegan world. . . . All your favorite cookies are here, alongside many that are about to become your favorites.”
—
Bar Harbor Times
“Outstanding.”
—
Providence Journal
Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World
“[Moskowitz and Romero] produce insanely fetching cupcakes.”
—
New York Times
“Written chattily and supportively for even the most oven-phobic. . . . Each page of this cookbook contains an irresistible delight.”
—
Bust
Also by Terry Hope Romero and Isa Chandra Moskowitz
Veganomicon
Vegan Cookies Invade Your Cookie Jar
Vegan Cupcakes Take Over the World
For Nerio and Teresa.
PART I
LATIN CUISINE AND VEGAN COOKING
INTRODUCTION
W
hen friends would ask me what new cookbook I was writing, my answer, “a vegan Latin cookbook,” was often met with looks of “
como
?” How can that be? The meatiest cuisine on the planet (so say some) made meatless? Is she
loca
? Has she been living off of raw broccoli for too long?
Oye!
But Latin food and vegan cooking need not be mutually exclusive. In fact, they are a match of culinary perfection, just like beans and rice.
Imagine a world without tomatoes, potatoes, corn, beans, pumpkins, chili peppers, or even chocolate. Who would want to live there? Now imagine life without . . . cow tripe. You’re probably thinking . . .
no problemo, senorita
! Well, that first set of ingredients gets me out of bed in the morning. These humble foods are not just culinary gifts but also part of the soul of Latin American cuisine. And even better . . . they’re all naturally vegan.
Whether you’re vegan, vegetarian, or just excited to give a few meatless meals some real estate on your dinner plate, this cookbook is for you. Interest in vegan cooking is exploding; the Latin community is expanding, and compassionate, healthy, affordable cuisine is more accessible than ever to anyone who loves tacos, tofu, or both.
The spirit and essential flavors of many of my favorite original Latin dishes are preserved in these pages. I aim to keep things authentic, but this is still not your
abuela’s
cooking, even if she is vegan (and lucky for you if she is!). These recipes are meatless, dairy-free food fantasies made reality: seitan potato tacos, espresso-spiked vegan caramel flan, and melt-in-your-mouth
alfajore
(
dulce de leche
butter cookie sandwich), and none have ever known a cow. I’ve also created new recipes infused with Latin flavor, like gazpacho-inflected salad dressing, or a spicy dairy- and egg-free chocolate cake stuffed with a
dulce
made from sweet potatoes; my take on some “
Nuevo
, nuevo Latino” cuisine.
Is your neighborhood sadly lacking a Latin American grocery? I’ve got you covered. These recipes include the adjustments necessary to bridge the differences between a North American or European supermarket and a Latin American
mercado
. I’ll also encourage you to seek out uniquely Latin ingredients in one of the many Latino markets in most major American cities (hey, we’re the largest and fastest growing minority!) or take shopping to the next level on
el Internet
.
WHY LATIN AND VEGAN?
My roots are Venezuelan, I was raised in New England, and then, soon after high school, I ran off to live in New York City (home to many Puerto Ricans, Cubans, and Dominicans). I had the break of a lifetime when I first moved here to work at one of the few Latino owned and operated vegan restaurants in NYC at the time. Bachué (named after an ancient Colombian goddess) was an ambitious mix of macrobiotic staples (brown rice, seaweed), flights of vegan fancy (savory vegan crepes), and an entirely Latino plate of “yellow” brown rice, beans, fried sweet plantains, and grilled seitan. I marveled over what I recognized from my childhood, now transformed and made even better by a Latina vegan fairy god-mother (named Veganué?). All of the flavor, texture, and spirit of the real thing—and not an animal’s life interrupted. This was what was missing from the vegan spectrum of eating. While my days at that café have long passed, I took with me all those lessons learned and a need to explore this crazy notion of vegan Latin cuisine.
ECONOMICAL AND MEAT FREE
Are you a budget-conscious foodista? Latin food, especially when meat- and dairy-free, is economical and a timely choice for today’s challenging times. Many Latin staples are some of the cheapest yet most nutrient-dense foodstuffs you can find at most supermarkets: rice; dried or canned beans; root vegetables; aromatic fresh herbs like cilantro, garlic, and parsley; peppers and onions; creamy coconut milk. Dried Mexican chiles—an inexpensive, authentic ingredient—delivers vast yet nuanced flavor. I don’t know about your grocery store, but those I frequent in NYC stock ultra-versatile green plantains that go for six, or sometimes even ten, for one dollar! With such savings it’s easier to spend a little extra on good-quality olive oil, organic products, and dairy alternatives. All of these basic, inexpensive ingredients are then used for maximum effect—the greatest nutritional and delicious bang (for your hard-earned buck).
Continuing on with the theme of thrift, Latino food is all about embracing leftovers and repurposing previously cooked foods. Refried beans are likely the most beloved example. Leftover
tostones
(crunchy fried plantains) get a second, sublime life in
mofongo
. Last night’s rice and beans are transformed into comforting
gallo pinto
, or quinoa and beans into crispy Peruvian-styled, freeform
tacu tacu
. Old tortillas regain their former glory fried into tostadas or baked into a casserole—some may say even better than they were before.
SEITAN TACO, WHERE HAVE YOU BEEN ALL MY LIFE?
So you’re a vegan or vegetarian already and you’ve already mastered the dinner plate without the animal stuff on it. You get a golden tamale then! But perhaps you’ve longed for a taco that more resembles the delights found at a taco truck (usually off limits to those who don’t eat animals) than it does fast food. Or you’ve longed for a world beyond standard vegetarian fare like bean burritos or soy cheese nachos. You’ll find plenty to get started here. Many of my recipe testers have become devotees of Peruvian panca chili paste or homemade dairy-less
dulce de leche
sauce and have worked these into their regular vegan menu rotation.
FOR ALL YOU LATINAS OUT THERE:
NO TRIPE FOR ME, GRACIAS
I also wrote
Viva Vegan!
with Latinas (and Latin food lovers) in mind. Perhaps you’ve picked up this book with an emerging desire to quit meat and dairy, or even just to eat less of it. You’re nearest and dearest to
mi corazón
and I aim to get you off to a promising career as a vegan Latina (or Latino). The easy part is cracking open this book and cooking up a soothing bowl of vegetable-filled
posole
stew or a batch of
arroz con seitan
. The hard part (I know what you’re thinking) is what to tell your mom when she presents you with a dozen pork tamales for Christmas, brimming with all those unmentionable animal bits you don’t want to eat. Just remember, you’re not alone. I’m a pragmatist and the easiest way to make things happen is to step into the kitchen and start cooking for yourself. Experience has taught me and countless others that the way to a complaining
familia
is through their stomachs. Learn to master delicious vegan adaptations of traditional dishes (or invent your own new takes on meaty favorites) and everyone will learn to come around to your way of thinking. Or, at the very least, ask you when you’re making dinner again! Didn’t grow up with all the Latin foods you wish you could have? Maybe your parents thought it was important you got to know chicken noodle soup instead of
sancocho
, tuna casserole instead of
pupusas
, baked beans instead of
arroz con gandules
, all in hopes that you’d fit in with the other kids at school. I’ll say it just one more time . . . this book is for you, too! Think of it as a way to get to know your roots just a little more, one chomp of
yuca frita
at a time.