American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World (46 page)

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Authors: Rod Davis

Tags: #Body; Mind & Spirit, #General, #Religion, #Ethnic & Tribal, #Social Science, #Ethnic Studies, #African American Studies, #test

BOOK: American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World
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Page 301
Divining tray, center, and instruments in Dr. Epega's home. Opele chain to right.
I wandered around, struck by the difference in ambiance from the rain-soaked evening on which I had first seen that yard, slogged through its puddles, passed the night of the summer solstice with fresh blood on my forehead. Hearing noises from the basement, I peeked into the downstairs kitchen, where a half-dozen women were cutting up chickens and goats that had been sacrificed during the night. I gave them a cheesecake I had brought as a gift.
Back outside I ran into, almost literally, Baba Tunde, sweating and en route to the house, but spiffy in white T-shirt, trousers, and head scarf. He looked tired from the previous evening, during which Ava had been fully consecrated. He greeted me with such a big smile I think he must have been a little amazed I'd really shown up. I knew he didn't have time to chat, but I quickly told him how the Oba had read me as an Ochosi instead of Obatala. Tunde seemed surprised. Then he said that sometimes Ochosi "hid behind" Obatala.

 

Page 302
Ebo Shrine in back yard of priests' home in Atlanta. Iron pots for Ogun;
small conical heads with cowrie shell eyes denote Elegba.
Someone called out from an upstairs window and he excused himself. I picked up a can of pop and walked over to the tree shading the sacrificial shrine where I had first made ebo. It had been fed recently and was thick with palm oil and feathers. I counted at least three Ogun pots and as many Elegba heads. I also saw a conch shell, probably for Yemonja, and a tripod of iron poles from which was hung a piece of cloth, possibly from a dress or dashiki. I wasn't sure of their purpose, though they were, like all the other evidence of sacrifice, connected to the initiation.
I wanted to see Ava but wouldn't be able to do so before dusk, when she would greet us all publicly, marking the beginning of her year-long apprenticeship, finally becoming a full priestess, an iyalorishatranslated literally as mother of the orisha. In keeping with the reversal of meaning common in voudou, however, the term also connotes the idea of bride and

 

Page 303
child. Ava would simultaneously be the mother of Oya and the child.
I waited out the twilight chatting with some of the other guests, trying to ignore the mosquitoes. Had a stranger accidentally walked into the back yard, and seen the array of African apparel, he might have thought he'd intruded on a party from a Nigerian embassy. I had begun to wonder how we'd all get into the room upstairs to greet Ava, when I heard a murmur of voices. A clump of people standing next to me were looking in the direction of the gate at the side of the yard.
It was the Oba. He walked in like a bolt of charisma, truly king-like in his dark olive dashiki, yellow fela, and leather sandals. He was immediately swarmed, and began hugging everyone back, including two of his ex-wives. I hadn't realized how popular he was outside the village. He seemed magnificiently happy, and with good reason. In some respects, Ava's initiation was the fulfillment of all that he stood for.
As he made his way across the yard, the Oba stopped before a huge man of well over six feet and at least 250 lbs. They looked each other over, grinned, and the man dropped to his knees, placing three fingers on the ground. "How you doing, Serge?" he said, rising. Brad Simmons, drummer for the evening, knew the monarch from back in New York. They hadn't seen each other in a while, and deep down, to him, Serge was still Serge.
A woman in her early forties edged into the Oba's line of sight. She moved up quickly once he spotted her and they embraced a lot more warmly than protocol required. I had spoken with her earlier, and knew she knew the Oba, but this was electricity. I eavesdropped. She wouldn't stay long, I heard her say, because she had to get back to Miami. But there was something she wanted to show him. They found two empty chairs and she dug into her purse. While they talked, she passed him a Polaroid photo. I could see the expression of the king of Ameri-

 

Page 304
can voudou soften almost to tears. ''Twenty-six years old," I heard her say.
I walked off into the yard. I felt some mist in my own eyes. I was thinking about my own daughter, Jennifer, and for a while I was not at the bimbé, but on the road again. For Jenny's visit that summer, I had promised her something different, so instead of having her meet me in Austin, we began our visit in Miami. She would drive back through the South with me to Texas, a chance for her to see new territory, and for me to have welcome company. I hadn't really planned on taking her to Oyotunji, which was several hours out of the way, but as we were speeding along through northern Florida, I knew I had to. I wanted her to be read by the Oba.
We arrived at the tail end of a Shango festival, and the village was typically chaotic. To save time, and conserve some of his own energy, the Oba told us to come down to his own house in the Afin. He'd been dancing all day in the sun, and greeted us
Jennifer, the author's daughter, watching Shango festival at Oyotunji.

 

Page 305
Shrine for Shango, Oyotunji village.
at his front door in nothing more than a pair of baggy shorts. I was happy that he was relaxed enough to be informal, and he was pleased that I would entrust him with the reading of my only child.
He led us into his living room, a small, stifling enclosure filled with wicker furniture. Apologizing for the heat, he turned on a box fan, which helped a little. Then he picked up the straw beach mat he used for readings and unrolled it on the floor. He sat down, cross-legged, at one end of the mat, and leaned forward. He motioned for Jenny to sit opposite. I gave her $30. At the Oba's instruction, she folded it triply.
He threw the opele rapidly, making the requisite prayers, pausing only to write down the sequence of the odu in his client record book. I lost count of the casts, but there seemed to have been a half dozen or so. He studied the results for several minutes. Then he looked up and smiled. "Oya."

 

Page 306
I was as surprised as when he had said "Ochosi" to me. Oya was the wife of Shango, and though she was the lord of the winds and a fierce warrior, the mistress of changes, she also was the ruler of the dead, equated in Catholicism with the Virgin de la Candelaria and in Haiti with Ghede. This was a heavy spirit. Jenny was a ten-year-old redhead who still traveled with Chester, her stuffed dog, and had only recently given up on the Easter bunny.
Most of the next day, driving through Georgia and Alabama and the Florida panhandle, Jenny had gone over the reading again and again. Her main concern was that the Oba had said she would become a successful business woman. For years, Jenny had wanted to be a veterinarian (as my father had been). I told her what I told everyone else new to readings: to take that which she wanted. And anyway, between Ifa and Elegba, things could change. She could still be a vet. She decided that was okay.
She never talked about the reading much after that, though we did buy the recommended coconut shampoo, and she promised to eat more fruit, as the Oba had advised, correctly diagnosing an intestinal ailment she'd had for the last year. In the fall, she called me to say they had to do a research paper for fifth grade. She had chosen Martin Luther King, Jr.
<><><><><><><><><><><><>
A little before 7
P.M
., Baba Tunde called for us all to come upstairs. As I had guessed, the room was tight quarters for thirty to forty people, about the size of a large, one-car garage. The musicians were squeezed against one wall, and had already started playing; Brad on congas, the other two rounding out the rhythm with shakeree, bells, and assorted smaller drums. Ava sat alone on a straw mat in the far corner, beneath two large crimson sheets hung as backing for her throne, a wicker chair. African masks, fresh palm fronds, orisha pots and rows of white candles were spread around her.

 

Page 307
Ava Kay Jones during historic Oya initiation ceremony in Atlanta. She was
the first African-American initiated by other African-Americans in an orisha
voudou ceremony in the United States.

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