American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World (51 page)

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Authors: Rod Davis

Tags: #Body; Mind & Spirit, #General, #Religion, #Ethnic & Tribal, #Social Science, #Ethnic Studies, #African American Studies, #test

BOOK: American Voudou: Journey Into a Hidden World
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Page 333
snake which he passed around his neck and over his head, foaming at the mouth and leaping aboutthe others rising and dancing.
Another yell from the voudous louder than before, a grand shriek and at another signal the lights were put out, the snake's head was solemnly pulled off and thus ended the ceremony. The devil or fetish being supposed to have been in the snake, and being thus killed, he was got rid of and his worshipers were free.
It was daybreak, the sun was just rising, and cast its rays over the waters of the lake as the party broke up.
From some of the details in the piecethe use of candles, the notion of possessionit is likely that some sort of ceremony was in fact witnessed, although the pejorative phrases "eyes rolling," "like a demon," etc. indicate a spin to the interpretation, one which marks the reporter as largely ignorant of any content to the spectacle. The other pertinent aspect of this report is the admission that the ceremony was deliberately staged. What was shown was almost certainly a form of theater.
Many press accounts claimed contact with ceremoniesthough, again, the similarity in the structure of the stories suggests that repetition of the established myth about secretive swamp orgies was as much a part of the reportage as was any kind of first-hand observation. "Outlandish Celebration of St. John's Eve," said the
Picayune
headline of June 23, 1896. "A Living Cat Eaten by the Voodoo King," the subheads continued, stacked atop each other. "Unparalled Scenes of Savagery in the Pontchartrain SwampsBecoming Impassioned, the Fetich Worshipers Tear Off Their Clothes and Dance Naked."
In this story, a reporter seeks out a voudou celebration, encounters false leads and backwoods locations ("a secrecy which

 

Page 334
has baffled even the most sagacious espionage of the police") etc., until finally getting the tip that leads him to the "real" ceremony, and a chance to write what everyone is dying to read, the myth validated in print. Here is a substantial portion of the account:
Inquiries were futile, and it seemed as if the search must result in failure, when the reporter met up with a well-known Creole physician, who proved a Golconda of information....
Shortly before 10 o'clock the physician and the reporter left the Esplanade cars at Bayou Bridge and procuring a skiff and a lantern proceeded well-armed and with padded boards down the placid waters of Bayou St. John toward the old Spanish Fort. About a half-mile below the Soldiers' Home a solitary fisherman's hut marks the spot where a narrow canal branches out abruptly from the side of the bayou and leads off toward the Lake through a gloomy and desolate swamp....
The night and the surroundings were well suited to the weirdest of dramas. High above the palmetto bushes a wan gibbous moon gleamed sullenly behind a veil of misty clouds, and resonantly through the thin forest of cypress trees came the sound of the Indian lake breaking among the rushes. A solemn and awful chorus of frogs punctuated by the occasional hoarse bellow of an alligator rose up from the marsh, and swarms of gigantic swamp mosquitoes buzzed incessantly ... presently a skiff hurried by bearing an ancient negro crone, rowed by two stalwart mulattoes ... atsomething before 11 o'clock forty negroes and mulattoes of both sexes and ages vary-

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