Bread Matters (42 page)

ciabatta, 230, 231

omega-3 essential fatty acids, 37

onions: calzoni, 276—7

pirozhki, 274—6

sun-dried tomato and red onion bread, 214-17

organic agriculture, 44-5

organic ingredients, 141

flour, 24, 44

yeast, 92-3

‘oven spring’, 121

ovens, 64—5

brick ovens, 64, 147, 240-1

steam in, 121-2

over-kneading, 112

overnight first rise, 132-3

overnight proving, 133

overnight sponge, 133—4

oxidase, 12

oxygen, and yeast fermentation, 89-90

pain au chocolat, 281, 283, 285-6

pain de campagne,
80, 115, 182—6, 229

pancakes, gluten-free, 322

panettone, 261

pantothenic acid, 23

parsley, simple shallot and parsley stuffing, 342

paskha, 263-4

pasta, 79

Pasteur, Louis, 25, 89

pastries, 271-93

calzoni, 273,
276-7

croissants, 280—5

Danish pastries, 280, 281, 288-91

lardy cake, 235, 292-3

marzipan wheels, 286—7

pain au chocolat, 281, 283, 285-6

pirozhki, 273, 274-6

trenchers, 273, 278-80

pastry, gluten-free, 324-5

pâte fermentée,
127

peels, 63—4

pentosans, 84

peppers: aubergine and red pepper bruschetta, 337-9

calzoni,
276-7

peptidase, 12

phospholipase, 12, 13

phosphorous, 23

phytic acid, 39, 125

pies, 273

pikelets, 233

pirozhki, 273, 274-6

pizza bases (gluten-free), 322—3

pizza stones, 64-5

plant propagators, proving dough, 119

Pliny, 195

Poilâne, Lionel, 51, 229

Poland, 38

polenta, 306

polythene bags, 58, 119, 334

poolish, 126

poppy seeds: crispbread, 244-6

toppings, 247

potassium, 23, 39

potassium bromate, 14

potassium chloride, 96

potato flour, 309-11

potato and quinoa bread, 321-2

potatoes, fishcakes, 342-4

pre-ferment, 125

pre-soaking, 105-6

preliminary yeasted doughs, 113, 123-7

preservatives, 11, 40, 95

prices, ‘standard loaves’, 5-7

problem-solving, 135—8, 171—2

processing aids, 14-17

production sourdough (leaven), 159, 177

pronyl-L-lysine, 39

protease, 12

protein, 78-81, 88

proving baskets and cloths, 61-2

proving dough, 118-20, 133, 164

prunes, fruit and nut leaven bread, 188-90

puff pastry, 273

pumpernickel, 174—5, 177

pumpkin seeds: olive and pumpkin seed bread, 218-19

seeded rye bread, 167—8

toppings, 247

pyridoxine, 23

Quinn family, 87

quinoa flour, 309-11

potato and quinoa bread, 321—2

raisins: kulich, 261—3

kvas, 348-9

paskha, 263—4

schiacciata di uva,
267—70

semolina, raisin and fennel bannock, 224—6

spelt bread, 194-5

stollen, 265-7

really simple sourdough bread, 177-9

reducing agent, 10

refreshing: old bread, 335-6

sourdough, 158-9, 205, 207

sponge, 213—14

religious festivals, 259-67

resistant starch, 125

resting dough, 112

riboflavin, 23

rice flour, 312-14

gluten-free bread, 300

gluten-free cakes, 326

gluten-free pastry, 324-5

pizza bases, 322-3

potato and quinoa bread, 321-2

rice, brazil nut and linseed bread, 317-20

rice sourdough, 316-17, 320

rising, 112-14

all-rye breads, 163

industrial bread, 27, 38

overnight first rise, 132—3

problems, 135—6

rocket, calzoni,
276—7

roller milling, 22-5, 35, 48

rolls, 147-52

baps, 147-9

batching, 247

Scottish morning rolls, 149—52

stotties, 242-4

Romans, spelt bread, 194-5

ropy bread, 40

Royal paskha, 263—4

rum: kulich, 261-3

stollen, 265-7

Ruskin, John, 251

Russia: kulich, 261-3

kvas, 347-9

paskha, 263—4

pirozhki, 273, 274-6

rye bread, 38, 165-6

sharlotka,
344-5

rye bread, 241

all-rye breads, 163—4

Borodinsky bread, 168-71

caraway rye bread, 172-4

Cromarty cob, 198-200

fermentation time, 38

glazes, 248-9

kvas, 348-9

problems, 171-2

really simple sourdough bread, 177-9

reducing staling, 333

Russian rye bread, 165-6

seeded rye bread, 167—8

sourdough, 5, 160-3, 197-8, 200-4

storing sourdough, 206, 207—8

whole grain rye bread, 174-7

rye flakes, toppings, 247

rye flour, 83-5, 299-300

Saccharomyces cerevisiae,
25, 89, 124, 156

Saccharomyces exiguus,
89

safety, ropy bread, 40

safflower oil, 98

salads, green salad with croûtons, 339-40

salt, 8, 95-6

saracen corn, 303

saturated fats, 97

savoury breads
see
flavoured breads

scales, 58

scaling up recipes, 67—8

schiacciata di uva,
267-70, 211

Scientific Advisory Committee on Nutrition, 36

‘Scotch’ brick ovens, 147

Scott, David, 31, 47

Scottish batch bread, 240-1

Scottish morning rolls, 149-52

scrapers, 59

‘scratch’ baking, 103

sea salt, 95

seeded rye bread, 167-8

seeds, toppings, 247

selenium, 23

self-raising flours, 77

semolina, 79

Altamura (semolina) bread, 222-4

semolina, raisin and fennel bannock, 224—6

sesame seeds, toppings, 247

shallot and parsley stuffing, 342

shaping dough, 115—17, 163—4

sharlotka,
344-5

ship’s biscuits, 241

shortcrust pastry, 273

slashing dough, 248

smoked salmon, fishcakes, 342-4

soda bread, 42

sodium, 23, 95, 96

sodium steoryl-2-lactylate (SSL), 10

soft wheat, 78, 80

softness, dough, 111

soil, 43-5

Soil Association, 45, 93

sorghum, 309

sourdough, 127, 153-208

basic sequence, 200—4

chlorinated water and, 88-9

‘feeding’, 204-5

illogical instructions, 102

kvas, 348-9

lactic acid bacteria and, 39

problems with rye bread, 171—2

reducing staling, 333

refreshment, 158-9, 205, 207

rice sourdough, 316—17, 320

rye bread, 5, 84-5, 163-4

rye sourdough, 160-3, 197-8

spelt leaven, 193-5, 197-8

storing, 205, 206, 207-8

‘washing’, 205

wheat leaven, 179—82

‘wild’ yeasts, 25-6, 27

soured cream: paskha, 263—4

pirozhki, 274—6

soya flour, 10, 37, 300, 312-14

soya oil, 98

spelt, 20, 87

spelt bread, 194-5

spelt leaven, 193-4, 197-8

spices, sweet bun dough, 255

spoilage, 40

sponge, 124, 126

extending fermentation time, 133-4

refreshing, 213—14

and rising, 113

‘sponge-and-dough’ method, 26, 27

spots, on crust, 138

stale bread, 331—2

standard loaf
see
industrial bread

Stapledon, George, 43

starch, stale bread, 331-2

starter, 126—7

and rising, 113

sourdough, 157-8, 160-2

see also
leaven

steam, in ovens, 121-2

stickiness, dough, 111

stollen, 121, 265-7

stoneground flour, 75

extraction rate, 76

from small mills, 80—1

nutritional values, 24—5

storage: all-rye breads, 164

bread, 332, 334-5

croissants, 287-8

rice sourdough, 320

sourdough, 205, 206, 207-8

yeast, 90

stotties, 242-4

straight dough, timing, 128—30

strong flour, 76, 80

stuffing, 341-2

simple shallot and parsley stuffing, 342

sugar, 93—4

and bread colour, 121

glazes, 249

sultanas: hot cross buns, 255—8

stollen, 265-7

summer pudding, 336-7

sun-dried tomato and red onion bread, 214-17

sunflower oil, 97-8

sunflower seeds: seeded rye bread, 167-8

sun-dried tomato and red onion bread with, 214-17

toppings, 247

supermarkets: bread prices, 7

fresh bread, 331

in-store bakeries, 49, 53—4

sweet bun dough, 253—5

symbolism, bread, 46

tapioca flour
see
manioc flour

teacakes, 235

temperatures: conversion table, 72

ovens, 65

proving dough, 118—19

rising dough, 113

thermometers, 58

timing baking, 128, 129-30, 131

water, 68, 129, 131