Emily Post's Great Get-Togethers (10 page)

Don’t despair of never experiencing this delicacy—a little truffle goes a long, long way, and you don’t have to purchase fresh ones to enjoy the experience. Truffle salt is a delicious way to add the aroma to foods—it’s incredible sprinkled on French fries. Truffle honey pairs beautifully with a nice ripe Taleggio cheese. Truffles also come packed in water or oil or as a paste. Be sure to add them to your dish at the last minute. If you’re lucky enough to meet a fresh truffle, shave it over pasta with olive oil or on scrambled eggs with butter. Fresh truffles don’t last long—just a few days—so if you have enough for more than one or two servings, by all means celebrate your good fortune with a party! Store truffles in dry uncooked rice in a sealed jar in the refrigerator.

Chocolate

Who can say no to chocolate? Truffles (the chocolate kind, so named because they look like the fungal ones) and specialty chocolates make a great dessert or a little après dessert with coffee. As in the movie
Chocolat
, today’s chocolatiers are pairing dark and milk chocolate with the exotic and the unusual: Think curry, chiles, green tea, lavender, pink peppercorns, chipotle roasted pecans, rosemary with juniper berry, or cardamom with rose hips. You can also find chocolates that are gorgeous to look at, covered with “foils” of gold and copper or patterns of greens, blues, reds, and lavenders. And for a twist, seek out handmade chocolate-covered toffees and caramels with sea salts. Unlike inexpensive milk chocolate candy bars, dark chocolate is very satisfying—just a little does the trick—and is even reported to have heart-healthy properties. Whatever you choose, chocolate is an elegant finish to any meal.

More of the Good Stuff

Remember, a little of these delicacies goes a long way. Some, like artisanal oils and vinegars, may be a tad hard to find but are worth the effort. Look for specialty foods at gourmet markets, farmers’ markets, and specialty stores. You can also find some interesting food products online or through mail-order ads in the back of gourmet food magazines.

• Domestic or European imported artisanal cheeses
  
• Foraged (by professionals, not by you!) mushrooms: morels, chanterelles, porcini
  
• Smoked fish, such as salmon
  
• Pâtés: meat, fish, or vegetable
  
• Rillettes: slowly cooked meat (usually pork) or game, mixed into a paste with rendered fat
  
• Confit: slowly cooked duck legs, preserved in their own rendered fat
  
• Artisanal honeys: chestnut, lavender, acacia, or linden to serve with cheese
  
• Single-producer olive oils: for dipping or a finishing drizzle
  
• Specialty vinegars: balsamic, raspberry, Champagne, sherry, herb
  

I
f food provides the sustenance to a celebration, drinks—alcoholic or non—add the fun. You’ll want to pay just as much attention to choosing drinks as you do to planning your menu. A luncheon or afternoon event might skip anything alcoholic and feature lemonade, iced teas, or fruit juice spritzers. At cocktail hour, offer a seasonal cocktail, like a Lemon Drop martini in the spring or a manhattan in the winter—easier on you and your pocketbook than having an open bar. Most likely, you’ll serve wine, or even a specialty beer, with your dinner menu. Coffee or a mint tea, perhaps with a liqueur or vintage port, could bring the evening to a perfect close.

Choosing Wine

W
hile some foods pair naturally with certain drinks, such as chili or beef carbonnade with beer or a hearty pasta bolognese with a Zinfandel, there are no longer any carved-in-stone “rules” about serving white wines with white meat and fish or reds with red meat. Nowadays, it’s simply a matter of creating a pleasing pairing, choosing a wine (or other beverage) that complements—and doesn’t overwhelm—the food. On the other hand, if you have a really spectacular wine to share, you might plan your entire menu around it.

Sound complicated? It’s not, really. Expert help is on hand at your local wine merchant. Bring him your menu, and he’ll help you choose complementary wines within your budget. You can also find good advice on Web sites that feature food and wine, or by reading up on wines in magazines, reference guides, and consumer publications (
see To Learn More About Wine, page 99
).

WHAT TO SERVE WHEN

Aperitif:
Sherry, Lillet, Dubonnet, Campari, Cinzano, vermouth, Champagne, white wine, rosé

Soup or appetizer course:
White, light red, rosé, or sparkling wine

Fish course:
White or red wine

Main course:
White or red wine

Dessert:
Ice wine, moscato, vin santo, sparkling wine

After dinner / digestif:
Cognac, brandy, single malt Scotch, Port, liqueurs (Grand Marnier, crème de menthe, Frangelico, Baileys, Amaretto), eaux de vie (Pear William, Calvados, schnapps, slivovitz), grappa, Limoncello, a Post favorite! Digestifs (Averna, Fernet Branca)

Wine and Food Pairings

WINE: RED

Barbera:

Description:

• Fruity.
  
• Cherry and plum.
  
• Mild with medium tannins.
  

Complements:

• Red meat, pork, poultry, sausages, tomato sauces, barbecue
  

Cabernet Sauvignon:

Description:

• Full-bodied and complex.
  
• Deep fruit, chocolate, and spice.
  
• Dry and rich in tannins.
  

Complements
:

• Red meats, game, pork, rabbit, stews, hearty sauces
  

Merlot

Description:

• A smoother, softer version Cabernet Sauvignon.
  
• Berry and herb.
  

Complements
:

• Red meat, pork, poultry, stews, hearty of sauces, pastas, fish such as tuna or swordfish
  

Pinot Noir

Description:

• Lighter than Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
  
• Cherry, spice, and herb.
  

Complements
:

• Red meat, game, pork, rabbit, salmon, seafood, poultry, rich risottos, vegetable dishes
  

Sangiovese

Description:

• Light when young, complex as it ages.
  
• Versatile.
  

Complements
:

• Red meat, sausage, grilled meats, poultry, seafood, tomato-based sauces, pasta, risotto, vegetable dishes
  

Syrah
(Shiraz in Australia)

Description:

• Well-rounded.
  
• Fruit and berry.
  
• Pairs well with many foods.
  

Complements
:

• Red meat, game, rabbit, poultry, stews, hearty sauces, sausages
  

Zinfandel

Description:

• Rich and spicy.
  
• Berry, vanilla, chocolate, and herb.
  

Complements
:

• Red meat, barbecue, duck, burgers, lasagne and other tomato-based pasta dishes, sausages, spicy foods
  

WINE: WHITES

Chardonnay

Description:

• Rich and buttery or light and citrusy.
  
• Apple, pear, and vanilla plus oakiness, if aged in oak barrels.
  

Complements
:

• Pork, poultry, seafood, fish, pâtés, risottos, vegetable dishes, triple cream cheeses like
  
• Brie, nutty cheese like Gruyère. It’s also a nice aperitif wine.
  

Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio

Description:

• Light and mineral tasting.
  
• Apple and citrus.
  

Complements
:

• Pork, poultry, seafood, rabbit, fish, sausages, vegetable dishes
  

Riesling

Description:

• Very fruity.
  
• Sweet or dry styles.
  
• Peach, apricot, and spice flavors.
  

Complements
:

• Appetizers, pork, duck, seafood, Asian dishes
  

Sauvignon Blanc

Description:

• Crisp and dry.
  
• Melon, fig, grapefruit, herb, or grassy.
  

Complements
:

• Appetizers, pork, poultry, seafood, Asian
  
• dishes, pasta, vegetable dishes
  

Viognier

• Spicy.
  
• Apple, peach, melon, and herbs.
  

Complements
:

• Appetizers, pork, poultry, seafood,
  
• Asian dishes
  

WINE: OTHER WINES

Rosé

Description:

• Fruity, dry, and light.
  
• Versatile, it pairs with many foods.
  
• Serve chilled.
  

Complements
:

• Appetizers, pork, poultry, seafood, steak, Asian dishes.
  
• An excellent choice for spring or summer dining.
  

Sparkling Wines:
Champagne, Prosecco, Cava

Description:

• Fairly dry, sometimes
  
• “toasty.” Apple, pear, citrus, or peach.
  
• “Crisp” or “soft,” depending on the bubbles.
  

Complements
:

• Appetizers, oysters, caviar, duck, seafood,
  
• salad, desserts, cheeses like Parmesan,
  
• Camembert, Gorgonzola Dolce
  

Dessert wines, white:
Sauternes, late harvest
Sauvignon Blanc, Vin Santo

Description:

• Highly intense sugar.
  
• Floral or fruity.
  

Complements
:

• Blue cheeses, fruit, cake or pastry desserts, biscotti, but not chocolate
  

Dessert wines, red:
Madeira, or made from varietals like Zinfandel

Description:

• Full-bodied, intense, sweet. Port-like.
  

Complements
:

• Anything chocolate! Cake, biscotti, Stilton, Gorgonzola, aged Cheddar, nuts, cigars or other grapes
  

Pouring Wine, Demystified

T
here’s really no big secret to pouring wine. The trick is to make sure it doesn’t drip: Hold the bottle around its widest part, pour, and just before you finish, twist the bottle toward you while raising the neck. This prevents drips. It’s also not a bad idea to wrap the bottle in a napkin—especially for red wine (easier to clean the napkin than a tablecloth or a guest’s dress). Glasses should be filled to the widest point of the bowl, both to allow the wine the most surface area to “breathe” and so that the wine can be swirled in the glass. And no, this isn’t some affected wine-tasting thing: The swirling releases the wine’s aromas. Using a wine coaster under the bottle can help prevent stains on a tablecloth.

Cheers! A Champagne Primer

T
he very mention of the word evokes celebration, glamour, and sophistication. It’s the star of every happy occasion and makes even the most humdrum of days special. Serve it at your next party and watch what happens.

The term “Champagne” actually refers only to the sparkling wine made in the Champagne region of France. All other bubblies are called sparkling wines or noted as being produced by the
méthode champenoise
. True Champagne is made from a blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Meunier grapes. Here’s what the label is telling you:

• B
  RUT:
  dry
  
• E
  XTRA
  D
  RY:
  sweet
  
• B
  LANC DE
  B
  LANCS:
  made entirely with Chardonnay grapes
  
• B
  LANC DE
  N
  OIR:
  made from 100-percent Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, or a blend of the two
  
• V
  INTAGE:
  made from at least 85 percent of the grapes from the year it was harvested. A producer usually makes a vintage wine only in a great year. Because they’re rarer, vintage wines are quite pricey.
  
• N
  ONVINTAGE:
  The base is made mostly from grapes grown in a particular year but may contain a percentage of grapes from previous years. This blending produces a very consistent style, replicable year to year. Nonvintage Champagne is generally less expensive than vintage, and worth it for the occasional splurge.
  

In most of the rest of the world, by treaty or agreement, bubbly wine is called sparkling wine, and there’s lots of it at a great price. Look for Italian Spumante or Prosecco and Spanish Cava, to name a few. Many U.S. producers have French parents and produce excellent, affordable sparklers as well.

When serving Champagne, it should be well chilled—ideally to between 43 and 47ºF. Prechill the bottles in the fridge, then transfer to a bucket filled with water and ice. The chilling helps the cork contract a little, making it easier to open the bottle. Once open, the Champagne can be left out of the ice bucket to let its aromas continue to develop. Ideally, Champagne is served in flutes—slender, narrow glasses with long, thin stems—which best preserve both aroma and effervescence. Fill the flute two-thirds of the way and hold it by the stem so that the wine doesn’t warm too fast. You can count on six flutes per 750ml bottle. Cheers!

Pop! Goes the Cork: how to Open Champagne or Sparkling Wine

S
ure, it’s fun to let the cork fly and see the bubbly spray, but save that for when your team wins the big championship. (Frankly, it’s a waste of good wine!) But the biggest reason for restraint is safety. The thick Champagne bottle and heavy cork are designed to withstand pressure between seventy and ninety pounds per square inch. If you think about it, that’s about double the pressure in your car’s tires. That cork can be a dangerous missile. Take the following precautions to safely open a bottle of Champagne:

1. Hold the bottle at a 45-degree angle and point it away from yourself and anybody else.
   
2. Remove the foil.
   
3. Place a napkin over the bailed cork while you untwist the “pigtail” to loosen the bail. (The napkin will lesson the impact of a cork that accidentally pops.)
   
4. Remove the bail and replace the napkin.
   
5. Hold the cork with one hand and twist the bottle with the other. You get more torque this way. Slowly loosen the cork, letting it uncork with a soft sigh instead of a pop.
   

Opening the bottle this way may be less dramatic, but it’s safe—both for people and for your breakables—and you’ll be sure to get every drop.

big, bigger, biggest: a party in a bottle

Not all Champagne comes in a standard 750ml bottle. In fact, some are the size of a small child! So, let’s do the math: If one bottle contains 750ml, then...

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Two(1.5L)
IS CALLED A...:
Magnum
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
12

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Four(3.0L)
IS CALLED A...:
Jeroboam
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
24

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Six(4.5L)
IS CALLED A...:
Rehoboam
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
36

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Eight(6.0L)
IS CALLED A...:
Methuselah
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
48

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Twelve(9.0L)
IS CALLED A...:
Salmanazar
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
72

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Sixteen(12.0L)
IS CALLED A...:
Balthazar
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
96

EQUIVALENT OF STANDARD BOTTLES (LITERS):
Twenty(15.0L)
IS CALLED A...:
Nebuchadnezzar
NUMBER OF GLASSES:
120

Beer—it’s Not Just for Keggers Anymore

M
an has been producing beer since biblical times and, like wine, beer is made in all parts of the globe. Microbreweries abound, and more and more people are making their own homemade beer as well. As a serious food companion, beer is growing in popularity, and you’ll often see both beer and wine recommendations given in food magazine menus and recipes. The styles and flavors are endless, from sweet to dry, fruity, yeasty, even chocolaty, so there’s lots to choose from.

In general, beer is made from malted grain—usually barley, but also wheat, rice, oats, rye, and in some parts of South America, corn. It’s often flavored with hops, the flower of the hops vine, which gives it a slightly bitter taste and acts as a preservative. Water is the other main ingredient crucial to a beer’s flavor and style. There are two main brewing styles:
lager
and
ale
. Lager is fermented at a cooler temperature over a longer period of time, resulting in a mild-tasting beer; it’s a popular style in Germany and central Europe. Ale is fermented quickly and at a higher temperature. Ales have a sweeter, fruitier taste and a fuller body than lagers. From here, the variables and varieties are endless. Wherever you travel, be sure to sample the local brews or visit a microbrewery for a tour and a tasting. Beer festivals are held all over the world, the largest and most famous being Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany.