Empress of Fashion (57 page)

Theater Production Recording

Full Gallop
, by Mark Hampton and Mary Louise Wilson, starring Mary Louise Wilson. Videotaped by The New York Public Library's Theater on Film and Tape Archive at the Waterside Theater (Downstairs), New York, N.Y., August 13, 1997.

Permissions

The author gratefully acknowledges the following for permission to quote from copyrighted material:

Assouline Publishing for permission to quote from
Veruschka
by Vera Lehndorff and David Wills, © 2008 Assouline Publishing.

Mrs. Hugh Astor for permission to quote from the albums of Emily Hoffman Dalziel and Alexandra Dalziel.

The Richard Avedon Foundation for permission to quote from The Richard Avedon Foundation archive, and other works by Richard Avedon.

Bob Colacello for permission to reprint extracts from
Holy Terror
© 1990 by Bob Colacello. Reprinted by permission of the author.

Condé Nast Publicatons for permission to quote from
Vogue
,
The New Yorker
,
Women's Wear Daily,
and
Vanity Fair.

Dr. Mary Aswell Doll for permission to quote from
The World of Carmel Snow
by Carmel Snow with Marie Louise Aswell.

Doubleday for permission to quote from
In and Out of Vogue: A Memoir
by Grace Mirabella, Judith Warner © 1995 by Grace Mirabella. Used by permission of Doubleday, a division of Random House, Inc.; and
The Wheels of Fashion
by Phyllis Lee Levin.

Field Enterprises Corporation for permission to quote from
The 1972 World Book Year Book: The Annual Supplement to the World Book Encylopedia
.

HarperCollins Publishers Inc. for permission to quote from
By Myself and Then Some
by Lauren Bacall;
Diana Vreeland
by Eleanor Dwight; and
Bare Blass
by Bill Blass and Cathy Horyn.

The Hearst Corporation for permission to quote from
Harper's Bazaar
.

Dodie Kazanjian for permission to quote from The Dodie Kazanjian Papers, Archives of American Art, Smithsonian Institution.

Caroline Kennedy for permission to quote from letters written by her mother, Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, to Diana Vreeland, 1960–61.

Little, Brown & Company for permission to quote from
Billy Baldwin: An Autobiography
by Billy Baldwin and Michael Gardine.

The Metropolitan Museum of Art to quote work excerpted from
Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design
, Copyright © 1974 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Reprinted by permission. Work excerpted from
Vanity Fair
© 1977 by The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York. Reprinted by permission. Work excerpted from
Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style
by Richard Martin and Harold Koda. Copyright © 1993 by The Metropolitan Musuem of Art, New York. Reprinted by permission.

Peters Fraser & Dunlop for permission to quote a parody of Diana Vreeland from “Why Don't You Parody” by S. J. Perelman. Reprinted by permission of Peters Fraser and Dunlop [www.petersfraserdunlop.com] on behalf of the Estate of S. J. Perelman.

The Random House Group Ltd. for permission to quote from
Redeeming Features: A Memoir
by Nicholas Haslam, published by Jonathan Cape. Reprinted by permission of the Random House Group Ltd; and from
What Am I Doing Here?
by Bruce Chatwin, published by Jonathan Cape. Reprinted by permission of the Random House Group Ltd and Aitken Alexander Associates.

Rolling Stone
for permission to use material excerpted from
Rolling Stone
, August 11, 1977 © 1977 Rolling Stone LLC.

Penelope Rowlands for permission to quote from
A Dash of Daring: Carmel Snow and Her Life in Fashion, Art, and Letters
© 2005 by Penelope Rowlands.

Calvin Tomkins for permission to quote from the Calvin Tomkins Papers, Series II, The Museum of Modern Art Achives, New York; from “The World of Carmel Snow,”
The New Yorker
, November 7, 1994; and, with Dodie Kazanjian, from
Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman
.

Hugo Vickers for permission to quote from the works and letters of Sir Cecil Beaton, and the Papers of Sir Cecil Beaton, St. John's College Library © The Literary Executors of the late Sir Cecil Beaton.

The estate of Diana Vreeland for permission to quote from The Diana Vreeland Papers, Manuscripts and Archives Division, The New York Public Library, Astor, Lenox, and Tilden Foundations;
D.V.
by Diana Vreeland;
Allure
by Diana Vreeland; the Diana Vreeland Tapes; and other works by Diana Vreeland.

The Andy Warhol Foundation for permission to quote selections from
The Andy Warhol Diaries
by Andy Warhol, © 1989 by the Estate of Andy Warhol, used by permission of The Wylie Agency LLC.

All attempts at tracing the copyright holder of
Lifework
by Norman Parkinson have been unsuccessful. The author has made every effort to trace the owners of copyright material. Please notify her of any omissions, which will be corrected in a subsequent edition.

Photo Credits

[SECTION ONE]

Page 1
:
Courtesy of Mrs. Hugh Astor.

Page 2
:
Top left: photographer unknown.

Top right: Photograph by John McMullin. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.

Bottom: Photographic study for painting by William Acton. Courtesy of the Diana Vreeland Estate.

Page 3
:
Top: Photograph by George Hoyningen-Huene. Copyright © Horst. Courtesy of Staley-Wise Gallery.

Bottom: Photograph by Martin Munckácsi. Copyright © Estate of Martin Munckácsi. Courtesy of Howard Greenberg Gallery, New York.

Page 4
:
Top:
Photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Copyright © 1989 Center for Creative Photography, Arizona Board of Regents.

Bottom: Photograph by Walter Sanders. Courtesy of Getty Images.

Page 5
:
Top:
Photograph by Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Copyright © 1989 Center for Creative Photography, Arizona Board of Regents.

Bottom: Pragoff Cantor, photographer unknown.

Pages 6 and 7
: All photographs by Louise Dahl-Wolfe. Copyright © The Museum at FIT. Reprinted with the permission of the Hearst Corporation.

Page 8
:
Photograph by Richard Avedon. Copyright © The Richard Avedon Foundation.

[SECTION TWO]

Page 1
:
Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation.

Pages 2 and 3
: Photograph by James Karales. Courtesy of the Estate of James Karales. Copyright © Estate of James Karales.

Page 4
: Left and bottom right: Photographs by Franco Rubartelli. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis. Top right: Photograph by Henry Clarke. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.

Page 5
: Top: Photograph by Bert Stern. Stern/
Vogue
/Condé Nast Archive. Copyright © Condé Nast.

Bottom: Photograph by Bert Stern. Copyright © Condé Nast Archive/Corbis.

Page 6
: Photograph by Cecil Beaton. Courtesy of the Cecil Beaton Archive at Sotheby's.

Page 7
: Top: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photograph by Al Mozell. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Bottom: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. Photograph by Al Mozell. Image © The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Page 8
:
Photograph by Richard Avedon © The Richard Avedon Foundation.

Index

The pagination of this electronic edition does not match the edition from which it was created. To locate a specific passage, please use the search feature of your e-book reader.

Abreu, Mme Jean-Claude, 245–46

Acton, William, 90, 99

Adams, James Truslow, 46

Adlerberg, Va-Va, 155, 359n 155

Adolfo, 210

Adorned in Dreams
(Wilson), 328

Adrian, 164, 281

Agha, Mehemed F. “Dr. Agha,” 107, 109, 131

Agnelli, Antonella, 215

Agnelli, Gianni, 296

Agnelli, Marella, 155, 269, 296

Albany, New York, 69–71

Allen, Adrian G. “A. G.,” 157, 158, 162, 167

Allure
(Vreeland), 6, 38, 76, 83, 108, 261, 300–302, 303, 311

Alphand, Nicole, 178

Alfonso XIII, King of Spain, 301

Alsop, Susan Mary, 215

Anderson, Marian, 117

Andrew, John, 304

Annenberg, Leonore, 296

Anything Goes
(Moore), 58

Arden, Elizabeth, 58, 224

Arlen, Michael, 58

Arnaz, Lucie, 288

Arnold, Rebecca, 127

art: courturier as artist, 277; DV on fashion and, 313; DV on fashion photography vs., 192, 205; fantasy and fashion, 328; Liotard as DV's inspiration, 214

Astaire, Mrs. Fred, 99

Astor, Caroline, 296

Astor, Hugh, 151

Astor, Mrs. William Backhouse, 14

Auric, Georges, 192

Avedon, Richard, 156–57, 159–60, 162, 170, 173, 198, 248, 321, 343n 38; Balenciaga exhibit and, 276; DV and, 156–57, 257, 289, 320;
Funny Face
and, 169; Hutton and, 230–31; iconic Veruschka shoot, 206–10; Jackie Kennedy photos, 175; Kennedy family photos, 179; Nureyev nude photos, 246–47, 370n 247; Tree and, 232; Twiggy and, 234; at
Vogue
, 204–5, 231, 238, 241–42, 246, 257, 365n 205

Bacall, Lauren (Betty), 134–36, 142, 231

Baez, Joan, 202

Bailey, David, 182, 191, 197, 248, 259; DV and, 198, 276, 287; on Jessica Daves, 183; work in
Vogue
, 195, 198, 200, 205, 234

Baker, Josephine, 60, 64, 293, 301, 320; story of her cheetah and DV, 92–93

Bakst, Léon, 37, 61

Balanchine, George, 241

Baldwin, Billy, 148, 149, 150, 153–55, 160–61, 164

Balenciaga, Cristóbal, 157, 161, 162, 200, 224, 234, 242, 272; DV's Costume Institute exhibition, 272–78, 280; Museum Bellerive collection, 272–73

Ballard, Bettina, 83, 124, 157–58, 162, 163, 166, 167, 349n 73

Ballets Russes, 26, 37, 57, 78, 87, 108, 215, 279, 301, 321

Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt (Duchess of Marlborough), 15, 184, 219, 293

Banton, Travis, 281, 282

Bara, Theda, 54, 55

Barton, Ralph, 347n 62

Barzini, Benedetta, 195

Bassman, Lillian, 161, 360n 156

Bath, Henry, Marquess of, 5

Battelle, Kenneth, 217–18

Baudelaire, 7

Beard, Peter, 241

Beatles, 197, 202

Beaton, Cecil, 78–80, 88, 106, 124, 131, 153, 155, 179; drawing of DV in
Vogue
, 1933, 96–97; DV and, 2, 4, 5, 89, 153, 173, 185, 192, 223, 257, 273, 274, 355n 119; on DV's decor, 154; on DV's joining
Vogue
, 180; friendship with DV begins, 79; memorial for, 307;
My Fair Lady
and, 282; photos of Daisy Fellowes, 301; on “Why Don't You?” column, 115–16; work in
Vogue
, 74, 78, 107, 194, 215

Beatty, Warren, 281, 287

Beauman, Sally, 249

Beene, Geoffrey, 234

Beerbohm, Max, 5

Bellanger, Gardner, 274

Bender, Marilyn, 213

Benois, Alexandre, 37

Benson, Lesley, 98–99, 101

Benson, Rex, 99

Bérard, Christian “Bébé,” 144, 155, 171, 301

Berenson, Marisa, 203, 219, 232, 246, 249, 321

Bergdorf Goodman, 177, 178

Berlin, Dick, 119, 180

Berlin, Irving, 346n 60

Bettina (model), 187

Bibesco, Princess Marthe, 90

Billings, Emily, 44, 45, 56

Birnbaum, Glenn, 319

Bismarck, “Eddie” von, 359n 155, 369n 234

Bismarck, Mona (formerly Mona Williams, later Mona de Martini), 78–79, 83, 99, 100–101, 112, 124, 234–35, 352n 99, 359n 155, 369n 234; Costume Institute and, 269, 279; Il Fortino, Capri, 78, 90, 124, 234

Blackmon, Rosemary, 187–88, 242, 246

Blahnik, Manolo, 263–64, 372n 264

Blanc, Numa, 13

Blanch, Lesley, 213–14, 215

Blass, Bill, 163, 225, 277, 280, 281

Bloomingdale's, 310, 311

Blum, Stella, 268, 283, 284, 293, 295, 376n 310

Bogart, Humphrey, 135

Bonwit Teller, 203, 213

Bousquet, Marie-Louise, 161

Bourdin, Guy, 228

Boussac, Marcel, 144

Bowen, Elizabeth, 213

Bowles, Hamish, 176, 177–78, 362n 176

Bramson, Ferle, 5–6, 282, 283, 284, 288

Brearley School, 15, 30–31, 34, 138

Breese, James Lawrence, 17, 316

Brien, Alan, 200

Brodovitch, Alexey, 108, 132, 156, 171, 172, 191, 301, 353n 108, 355n 119, 359n 156

Brokaw, Barbara, 60

Brokaw, Lucile, 107–8, 301

Brown, Yvonne Duval, 220, 221–22

Brownlow, Kitty, 76, 91, 99

Brownlow, Perry, 76

Belton House and, 76–77

Brubach, Holly, 208

Buckley, Pat (Mrs. William), 296

Cabot, Maud, 60

Cacharel, 368n 227

café society, 78, 79, 81, 110, 124, 155

Callot Soeurs, 279

Campbell, Douglas Walter, heir to 10th Duke of Argyll, 21, 341n 22

Campbell, Ian, 11th Duke of Argyll, 21, 341n 22

Capezio, 130

Capote, Truman, 155, 257, 303, 375n 303; Black and White Ball, 232, 368n 232; on DV, 3, 7, 325

Capri, 78–79, 90; DV's visits to, 90, 124, 234–35; sandal popularized by DV, 90, 124, 321

Carbonites, 17

Cardin, Pierre, 176

Carlisle, Kitty, 203

Carnegie, Hattie, 126, 127, 128

Carroll, Katherine (Nanny Kay), 29–30, 32, 33, 49, 71, 73, 138, 342n 29

Carstairs, Joe, 187

Case, Margaret, 263, 371n 263

Cashin, Bonnie, 133

Cassini, Oleg, 177–78

Castle, Irene and Vernon, 36–37, 61, 316

Cavalieri, Lina, 341n 24

Cavallo, Adolph, 268

Celi, Dolores, 314, 317, 318, 319, 320

Chalif, Louis, 35, 36, 37, 44

Chanel, Coco, 85–88, 127, 146, 190, 211, 237, 239, 279, 312, 321; Beaton on, 153; Chanel No. 5 and, 87; Cuir de Russie perfume, 295; d'Erlanger gift of dress to DV, 85; DV's views on importance of, 85, 86–87, 185, 196, 200, 226, 312; DV wearing clothes by, 102, 124, 125; fashion philosophy, 200; fittings by, 86, 125; influence of, 90, 128; inspiration for, 87, 294; opinion of DV, 5; return of, 162; in
Vogue
, 196; World War II and, 125

Chanler, Robert Winthrop, 24, 341n 24

Channing, Carol, 196

Chapman, Chanler, 45

Chase, Edna Woolman, 74–75, 106, 109, 110, 130, 182, 257

Chatwin, Bruce, 308

Cher, 237, 315

Claiborne, Liz, 315

Clark, Laura Pyzel, 158

Clark, Petula, 241

Clarke, Henry, 212, 215

Clews, Henry, Jr., 21, 24

Clews, Mrs. Henry, Jr., 341n 24

Cocteau, Jean, 109

Cody, Buffalo Bill, 32–33

Colacello, Bob, 288, 289, 290, 291, 305–6, 307

Colefax, Sibyl, 352n 100

Colin, Pamela, 239

Colony Club, New York, 50, 56, 58; rejection of DV, 62–63

Condé Nast Publications, 106, 182, 219, 297, 371n 256; Liberman as editorial director, 186, 191; Newhouse acquires, 182; offices, 110.
See also
Vogue

Coro-Vendome, 264

Costume Institute, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York,

1;
American Women of Style
, 292–93;
The Art of Fashion
, 268; Bowles and, 362n 176; Cavallo at, 268; CFDA as benefactor, 277, 278; costs of exhibitions, 278;
The Costumes of Royal India
, 314–15; curatorial staff, 268, 283–84, 376n 310;
Dance
, 315–16;
Diaghilev
, 309;
Diana Vreeland: Immoderate Style
, 6, 322, 326, 338n 8; Druesedow as associate curator, 311, 314; Duke of Windsor's clothes, 270–72; DV, tribute to, 1987, 317; DV and curatorial staff, 275, 276, 295, 314; DV and press, 276, 277, 280; DV and volunteers, 284, 288; DV as Special Consultant, 1, 270–317; DV considered for position at, 268–69; DV's celebrity friends visiting, 288–89; DV's contract, 270, 277; DV's critics, 308, 309–13, 376n 310; DV's friends contribute to salary, 269–70; DV's mannequin choice, 274–75; DV's office, 270; DV's salary and expenses, 270; DV's success, 286, 293, 295, 312–13; DV's transformation of the field, 322; DV's weakening health and final years, 314–17;
The Eighteenth-Century Woman
, 310, 312; endowment for, 277;
Fashions of the Hapsburg Empire
, 283, 309;
The Glory of Russian Costume
, 293–96; Hoving and, 267, 268, 270; influence on designers, 280, 295, 310, 311, 315; Jacqueline Onassis as Party of the Year committee president, 296, 298;
La Belle Époque
, 310, 312; Lambert at, 268, 269;
Man and Horse
, 312;
The Manchu Dragon
, 310, 312; origins of, 267–68; Party of the Year, 277–78, 296, 315, 316–17; reevaluation of DV's exhibitions, 322–23;
Romantic and Glamorous Hollywood Design
, 280–82, 284, 285–86;
The Tens, The Twenties, the Thirties: Inventive Clothes 1909 -1939
, 279–80, 291, 293, 299, 309;
Vanity Fair
, 297–99, 309, 329; visitors, 277, 280, 286, 293, 299, 312–13;
The World of Balenciaga
, 272–78, 280, 309, 373n 274;
Yves Saint Laurent: 25 Years of Design
, 312, 313

Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), 277, 278

Courrèges, André, 200, 203

Cowan, John, 212, 255

Cowles, Virginia, 140

Crespi, Consuelo, 212, 366n 211

Croswell, James G., 31

cubism, 2

Cushing, Lily, 194

Cyrulnik, Boris, 38–39, 48, 98

Daché, Lilly, 125

Dahl-Wolfe, Louise, 130, 131–34, 136, 142, 146–47, 172, 321, 324; Bacall and, 134–36

Dali, Salvador, 5, 109

Dalziel, Edelsten (uncle), 12, 21, 341n 19

Dalziel, Emily Key Hoffman (mother), 13–21; Alexandra and, 22, 28, 29, 34; ancestry, 14–15, 339n 14; article by in
Harper's Bazar
; 62, 63, 109, 347n 62; article on in
Vogue
, 62; beauty of, 15–16, 22, 24; at the Brearley School, 15; character and personality, 15–18, 23–25; as dancer,16–17, 36–38; death of, 72; as debutante, 15, 340n 15; DV and, 27–34, 36, 38, 40, 48, 50, 51, 55–56, 59, 62, 72–73; DV's birth (1903), 21; European jaunts (pre-WWI), 25–27; European trip and marriage to Frederick Dalziel (1901), 18–19, 340n 18, 341n 19; decline in status, 63, 71–72; family homes, 15, 22; finances of, 23, 24; high society and, 15–16; hunting and, 16, 32, 52–53, 62, 95, 343n 32; husband's devotion to, 49; infidelity of, 25; move to New York (1904), 21; narrative gift of, 26–27, 53; in Paris (1901–1904), 19–21, 341n 19; picture of, in DV's last exhibition, 316; on red camellias, 59; scandal and Ross affair, 51–53, 66–67, 71–72, 347n 63, 348n 72; scrapbook, 340n 16; suitors of, 17–18; unhappiness, 24, 28–29, 61–63, 72–73

Dalziel, Frederick Young (father), 11–13, 81; appearance, 11–12, 27, 50; as broker with Post & Flagg, 22, 23, 49, 77, 139; character and personality, 25, 47, 49, 50, 72; death of, 139; distancing from his background, 21, 79; DV and, 12–13, 21, 49; Edwardian persona, 13, 19; Emi-Lu Kinloch and, 138; family of, 12, 13, 339n 12; finances of, 23, 24; hatred of popular press, 73, 138; home on East Seventy-Seventh St, NYC, 22; marriage of, 23, 25, 49; marrying up, 20, 23–24; meets and marries Emily Hoffman (1901), 19, 341n 19; as middle class, 11, 13, 23; mother-in-law and, 50; move to New York City (1904), 21; New York society and, 24; at Oxford, 12, 339n 12; in Paris, 13, 19–21, 341n 19; photo album of DV by, 23; wife's scandal and, 51–53, 66–67, 71, 348n 71; World War II and, 138–39

Damrosch, Anita, 59

Damrosch, Walter, 59

Dance
magazine, 309

Daves, Jessica, 257; appearance, 183, 363n 183; DV and, 184–85; as editor in chief,
Vogue
, 179, 180, 182–85, 186, 188, 301; prudery of, 183–84, 246; resignation from
Vogue
, 185; vision for
Vogue
, 184

Davis, George, 105, 110, 140

Debutante Calendar, The
, 60

Deems, Richard, 170, 180

de Gaulle, Charles, 301

de Gunzburg, Nicolas, 140, 156, 253

Delafield, Wanda, 133

de la Renta, Françoise, 224, 279, 296

de la Renta, Oscar, 224, 238, 253, 276, 281, 307, 320, 321; as CFDA president, 277–78, 279; Party of the Year and, 278, 279, 296

de Menil, Jean and Dominique, 290, 291

de Meyer, Baron Adolph, 74, 107

d'Erlanger, Baba.
See
Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Jean-Louis de

d'Erlanger, Baroness Catherine, 77–78, 91, 139

d'Erlanger, Edwina, 99, 139, 262

d'Erlanger, Baron Frédéric, 77

d'Erlanger, Mrs. Leo, 215

d'Erlanger, Leo, 125

d'Erlanger, Robin, 77

d'Erlanger, Mrs. Robin, 111

d'Erlanger, Baron Rodolphe, 91

Derujinsky, Gleb, 167, 198

Devlin, Polly, 232; on DV, 2, 5

de Wolfe, Elsie Mendl, 75, 80–81, 84, 90, 91, 113, 139, 293, 301, 353n 101; Villa Trianon, France and, 81; Wallis Simpson and, 99

Diaghilev, Sergei Pavlovich, 26, 32, 37, 87, 214, 216, 301; DV's exhibition of, 309

Diana Vreeland
(Dwight), 6, 303

Diana Vreeland: The Eye Has to Travel
(L. Vreeland), 6

Dietrich, Marlene, 90