Empress of Fashion (59 page)

Levine, Harold, 234

Lewisohn, Irene and Alice, 267

Liberman, Alexander, 181–82, 184, 190, 191, 198, 257; Avedon hiring, 205; DV and, 184, 186, 226, 254, 257–58, 260, 261 ; DV firing, 256–59, 262; DV hiring, 181–82

Lieberson, Jonathan, 3, 5, 41, 265, 302, 324

Life
magazine, 128

Liotard, Jean-Étienne, 214

Littlewood, Joan, 200

Lloyd, Kate, 187

London, England: artists and rich patrons, 79, 80; boutique design and youth fashion, 1960's, 227–28, 368n 227; “Bright Young People,” 80; café society, 78, 79, 110, 124; decades of 1920s vs. 1960s, 199; d'Erlanger home, 77–78; DV's home at 17 Hanover Terrace, 75–76; DV's shop, 98–99, 352n 99; fashion designers in, 199, 227–28; inwardness of the rich, 1930s, 93; Maugham's “White House,” 75; “swinging London” of the 1960s, 197–99, 239; Vreelands in (1929–1935), 73–102; Zoo, 95

Lopez, Victor, 102

Lord & Taylor, 125–26, 130, 199, 266, 267

Lorillard, Pierre, IV, 56

Louis XIV, 119

Ludwig II of Bavaria, 94

Luna, Donyale, 228, 229

Lydig, Rita, 153, 293, 301

MacBride, Robert, 303, 375n 303

Macdonald, Nesta, 309

MacGraw, Ali, 158, 159, 360n 157

Mackay, Ellin, 346n 59, 346n 60

Mainbocher, 84, 125, 144, 164, 190, 252, 270, 350n 84; DV and, 97, 110, 157–58, 164, 270, 360n 157

Manzoni, Pablo, 8, 338n 8

Marbury, Bessie (Elisabeth), 80

Margaret, Princess, Countess of Snowdon 193

Marlborough, Duchess of.
See
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt

Marlborough, Duke of, 15

Martin, Richard, 280, 297, 308, 322, 325

Martini, Nino, 117

Martini, Umberto de, 269

Mary of Teck, queen consort, 82

Maugham, Somerset, 75

Maugham, Syrie, 75, 99, 103, 139, 154, 352n 100, 353n 103

Maximilian Furs, 255, 266

Maxwell, Elsa, 81

Maxwell, Vera, 125

Mazor, Boaz, 284, 307

McCardell, Claire, 127–28, 133, 145, 165, 321, 356n 128; DV and, 127–29; “Monastic” dress, 128; the “Popover” and, 128–29

McCooey, Meriel, 239

McFadden, Frances, 105, 110, 140

McIver, Mrs. Randall, 35, 43–44

McKendry, Maxime, 288

McMullin, Johnnie (John), 78, 80–81, 97

McQueen, Alexander, 326

Mead, Margaret, 251

Mellen, Polly, 158, 205–6, 208, 209, 232, 238, 261

Mellon, Mrs. Paul, 270, 274

Mendes, Valerie D., 229

Mendl, Elsie.
See
de Wolfe, Elsie Mendl

Mendl, Sir Charles, 80, 353n 101

Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, 267, 278–79.
See also
Costume Institute; Hoving, Thomas

Miles, Sarah, 195

Miller, Anna, 163

Miller, Annie Hopkins, 288

Miller, Arthur, 183

Miller, Gilbert, 124, 155

Miller, Kitty (Mrs. Gilbert), 84, 124, 139, 155, 225, 262, 276

Mirabella, Grace, 204, 241, 255–56; DV and, 181, 188–90, 254–55, 263, 264; on DV at
Vogue
, 187, 188, 189, 213, 260; as editor in chief,
Vogue
, 259–60, 262, 263

Missoni, 212, 366n 211

Mitford, Jessica, 244, 245

Mitford, Nancy, 244

Mitford, Unity, 117, 244

Miyake, Issey, 280, 291, 301

Monroe, Marilyn, 185, 282, 301

Montebello, Philippe de, 297–98, 320, 322

Monteil, Germaine, 126

Moore, Lucy, 58

Morgan, Thelma and Gloria, 60

Morris, Bernadine, 276, 278–79

Mountbatten, Edwina, 352n 98

Müller-Ury, Adolfo, 16

Munkácsi, Martin, 107–8, 110, 131, 133, 156, 231, 301

Murray, Mae, 281

Mussolini, Benito, 117

Nash, John, 75

Nast, Condé, 64, 75, 81–82, 92, 99;
Vogue
and, 74–75, 106

Neuhaus, Lacey, 305, 376n 305

Newhouse, Sam, 182, 186, 191, 371n 256

Newhouse, Si, 191, 256, 258, 260, 371n 256; firing of DV and, 258–59

Newport, Rhode Island, 15, 20, 340n 15

Newton, Helmut, 183, 212, 248

New York American
, 81

New York City: art movements in, 60, 115; ballroom dancing in, 36–37; beauty salons, 1920s, 58; boutique design and youth fashion, 1960's, 227–28; Brook Club, 24; Carbonites, 17; Colony Club, 50, 56, 58; Dalziel family's status, 22–24; debutante season, 15–16, 55–56, 58–61; decline of the 1970s, 286; DV and Seventh Avenue, 163, 173, 253; DV returns, 1935, 102; DV's childhood in, 22–55; DV's social circle, 1950s, 155; DV's social force, 1970s, 286–87; DV's social success noted, 81; DV-supported designers and manufacturers, 164–65; DV's wedding, 65–67; Ellis family in, 14–15; fashionable venues, 56; as fashion and taste leader, 56; fashion as competition in, 120; fashion industry, 119–22, 125–34, 183, 356n 130; fashion industry and DV, 119–37, 147, 213, 266; Fifth Avenue stores, 117, 121, 182, 203, 213; “Four Hundred,” 14, 15, 16, 20, 63; fur district, 355n 121; garment district, 121, 355n 121; Gilded Age, 14; Harlem Renaissance, 60; Paris couture copies in, 120, 128, 146–47, 163, 164; Party of the Year in, 277–78;
polio epidemic, 1916, 33, 343n 33; Roaring Twenties, 56–57, 60–61, 346n 60; Snow and Americanization of Parisian designs, 161–62; wealth and status in, 14–16, 19–20, 24, 50, 56–57, 60, 155, 225

New Yorker
, 128, 117–18, 285, 286

New York
, 303

Nicholson, Jack, 5, 281, 287

Nijinsky, Vaslav, 22, 26, 37

Nixon, Patricia, 174, 175

Nixon, Richard, 174

Noailles, Vicomte and Vicomtesse, 90, 113, 301

Norell, Norman, 164, 176, 177, 190, 193–94, 252, 253, 266

North, J. Ringling, 59

Nureyev, Rudolf, 246–47, 370n 247

Obolensky, Serge, 155, 296

O'Brien, Edna, 200

Ochs, Phil, 202

Orrick, Mildred, 128

Paley, Barbara “Babe,” 155, 159, 266, 269

Paley, Stephen, 320

Paolozzi, Christina, 246

Paris, France: apartment of Princess Guy de Faucigny-Lucinge, 76; art movements in, 108; Belle Epoque, 26–27; boutique design and youth fashion, 1960's, 200, 227–28; Chanel and, 85–88; Courrèges and, 200–201; couture, 83–88, 119, 143–47, 234–35 (
see also
specific designers
); Dalziel family in, 13; Diaghilev's influence, 37; DV in, 1971, 263; DV in, 1972, 271–73; DV's birth in, 11–12; DV's childhood trips to, 25–27; DV's fantasy of Paris upbringing, 22, 23, 25, 26, 27, 31, 180, 225–26; DV's trips during 1930s, 92–93, 124–25; DV at
Vogue
and, 189, 235, 254; DV's wardrobe from, 124; Gilded Age, 13, 20;
Harper's Bazaar
and, 111; Iolas Gallery, 290; “
Les Dames de
Vogue,” 83, 84, 96, 234; lifestyle of the rich, 90–92;
mannequin du monde
, 85, 146; New York as fashion rival, 120; World War II and, 124, 125

Parish, Sister, 289–90, 374n 290

Parker, Suzy, 168, 169

Parkinson, Norman, 205, 216–18

Parsons The New School for Design, 128

Patchett, Jean, 206

Patou, Jean, 127

Paul, Maury, 72, 81, 348n 72

Pavlovich, Grand Duke Dmitri, 87, 294

Paxton, Tom, 202

Peabody, Mrs. Malcolm E., 233

Peck, Polly, 200

Peck, Priscilla, 194, 276

Penati, Gianni, 246

Penn, Irving, 182, 193, 195, 197, 198, 205, 207, 214, 234, 246, 249, 280, 301

Perelman, S. J., 117–18

Peter, Paul, and Mary, 202

Petigny, Alan, 236

Phillips, Carol, 188, 223, 250, 253, 257, 258

Piaggi, Anna, 258

Pickford, Mary, 281

Plimpton, George, 85, 87, 254, 293, 313, 320; recording DV and, 303–4

Plunkett, Walter, 281

Poiret, Paul, 37, 59, 120, 279

Pollock, Jackson, 60

Portarlington, Lady, 99

Porter, Cole, 155

Potok, Anna, 266

Potter, Clare, 125, 130

Pucci, Emilio, 161, 178, 211, 218; DV's idea for psychedelic underwear, 211

Quant, Mary, 199, 200, 227, 236, 324, 368n 227

Rabanne, Paco, 228, 229

Radziwill, Lee, 159, 175, 178, 296

Rastelli, Vittoriano, 215

Rattazzi, Priscilla, 289, 292, 303

Rawlings, John, 183

Ray, Man, 109

Raye, Martha, 135

Rayner, Mr. and Mrs. William (Chessy), 288

Reagan, Nancy, 310, 311

Redgrave, Vanessa, 237

Revson, Charles, 165

Reynal, Jeanne, 60, 346n 59

Rhodes, Zandra, 314

Ribes, Comtesse Jacqueline de, 224, 236, 296

Richardson, John, 5, 307

Ritz-Carlton Hotel, New York, 58

Roberts, Ray, 300

Robertson, Cordelia Biddle, 150, 222

Rockefeller, Godfrey S., 67

Rogers, Millicent, 83, 164, 279, 293

Rollin, Betty, 202

Rolling Stone
, 302

Rolling Stones, 198, 288

Romanones, Countess Aline, 274

Romantic Moderns
(Harris), 80

Rose, Alex, 174

Rosenstein, Nettie, 126

Rose of the World, The
(film), 46

Ross, Sir Charles, 51–53, 66, 71, 347n 66, 348n 71, 348n 72

Ross, John, 322

Ross, Lady Patricia, 66, 71, 72, 347n 63, 348n 72

Rothko, Mark, 60

Rothschild, Pauline Potter,
Baronness Philippe de, 139, 140, 219, 265, 269, 273, 274, 276, 301, 339n 14

Rousseau, Theodore, 269, 270

Rowlands, Penelope, 170, 171, 355n 119

Rubartelli, Franco, 235

Rubinstein, Helena, 58

Rubinstein, Ida, 26, 214

Russell, Consuelo, 203

Russell, Edwin, 191, 219

Ruston, Perry, 258–59

Ryan, D. D., 158

Sackville, Idina, 348n 71

Saint Laurent, Yves, 236, 321, 368n 227; DV's exhibition of, 312

Saks Fifth Avenue, 182, 210

Sand, George, 45, 237

Sant'Angelo, Giorgio di, 235, 252, 253, 281, 322

Sassoon, Vidal, 204, 228

Scaasi, Arnold, 281

Schiaparelli, Elsa, 83, 84, 109, 112, 140, 219, 232, 279, 313, 354n 112

Schlappi mannequins, 274–75

Schlumberger, Johnny (Jean), 139, 155

Schnurer, Carolyn, 130, 133

Schön, Mila, 212

Scovil, Cora, 130

Sellers, Peter, 238

Selling Culture
(Silverman), 310–12, 313

Selznick, David O., 281

Seventeen
magazine, 199, 324

Shaver, Dorothy, 125, 130, 138, 267, 277

Shrimpton, Jean, 197, 198, 206, 241–42

Sills, Thomas, 60

Silver, Stuart, 285

Silverman, Debora, 310–12

Simonetta, 161

Simpson, Adele, 252

Simpson, Babs, 129, 132, 136, 145, 253, 255, 355n 119

Simpson, Wallis Warfield.
See
Windsor, Duchess of

Singh of Kapurthala, Prince Martand “Mapu,” 315

Sitwell, Edith, 302

Slifka, Barbara, 159, 170

Sloat, Stella, 176, 177

Smith, Florence Pritchett, 220

Smith, Liz, 311

Snow, Carmel, 103, 117, 126, 130, 262, 281, 324, 355n 119; alcohol and, 170–71; Americanization of Parisian designs and, 161–62; appearance, 106, 157; Avedon and, 156–57; Balenciaga and, 161, 162; Brodovitch and, 108–9, 132, 157; Chanel's return and, 162; Dior and, 144–46, 161; DV and, 104, 111, 118, 121, 123–24, 130, 136, 157, 162–63, 172; DV hired by, 102–4, 353n 103; as editor in chief,
Harper's Bazaar
, 102–11, 118, 132, 157, 164, 180; Italian designers and, 161;
Junior Bazaar
and, 360n 156; New Look coined by, 145, 358n 145; Paris couture and, 119, 143–47; salary, 355n 119; succession of, 170–71

Snowdon, Anthony Armstrong-Jones, Lord, 205, 258

Social Register
, 21, 23, 63, 340n 15

Sokolsky, Melvin, 173

Solomon, Andrew, 247, 316

Sontag, Susan, 249

Spaak, Catherine, 195

Stamp, Terence, 266

St. Augustine, Florida, 134–35, 142

Steele, Tommy, 241

Steele, Valerie, 133, 211, 212

Steichen, Edward, 74, 107, 343n 38

Stein, Gertrude, 302

Stern, Bert, 183, 185, 234, 236, 248, 276, 301

Stevens, Jocelyn, 299, 375n 299

Strega, 369n 235

St. Regis Hotel, 102

Streisand, Barbra, 196, 230

Stutz, Geraldine, 170

Talbot, Suzanne, 112

Tale of Genji, The
, 208

Talley, André Leon, 284, 293, 373n 284; DV and, 5, 284–85, 314, 315, 316, 318, 320

Talmey, Allene, 191–92, 198, 244

Tate, Sharon, 227

Tatler
(English society magazine), 124

Taylor, Ann, 242, 251–52, 370n 242

Taylor, Elizabeth, 288, 304

Tazi, Tamy, 215

Tereshkova, Valentina, 199

Thaw, Harry, 17

Thompson, Anna Key, 21

Tiffeau, Jacques, 203

Tobé-Coburn School for Fashion Careers, 130

Tomkins, Calvin, 109, 110

Town & Country
magazine, 103

DV at, 103, 104, 353n 103

Townley Frocks, 128, 129

Town Topics
, (gossip magazine) 18, 63–64, 67

Train, Susan, 187, 254, 273

Travers, Mary, 202

Tree, Marietta, 232, 233

Tree, Penelope, 231–32, 301, 321

Tree, Ronald, 232, 233

Trow, George, 284, 287, 288, 296, 309

Trump, Donald, 315

Tuffin & Foale, 368n 227

Tufo, Peter, 269

Turbeville, Deborah, 302

Turk Hill, Brewster, New York, 139–40, 148

Tuxedo Park, New York, 56

Twiggy, 233–34, 235, 236

Updike, John, 183

Utter, John, 270, 271

V&A Museum, London, 273, 309–10, 313

Valentino (Garavani), 212, 265–66, 280, 366n 211

Van Buskirk, Margaret, 315–16, 319–20

Vanderbilt, Alva, 15, 340n 15, 340n 18

Vanderbilt, Consuelo.
See
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt