Empress of Fashion (58 page)

Dillon, Douglas, 272, 296

Dillon, Mrs. Douglas, 279

di Montezemolo, Catherine, 231

Dinesen, Isak, 343n 32

Dior, Christian, 144–46, 161, 184; “Corolle” line, 144–45; DV's opinion of, 145–46; first collection, 1947, 144; New Look, 145, 358n 145

Dolly Sisters, 301

Donen, Stanley, 169

Donovan, Carrie, 180, 227, 254, 255

Donovan, Terence, 205

Douglas, Ann, 46

Dovima, 159, 162, 168, 169, 206

Druesedow, Jean, 311, 314

Dubinsky, David, 174–75

Duffy, Brian, 205

Duke, Angier Biddle, 150

Duke, Doris, 218, 274

Duncan, Isadora, 36, 237, 245, 293

Duranty, Walter, 53

Durst, André, 125

D.V.
(Vreeland), 6, 303, 311

Dwight, Eleanor, 6, 47, 190, 303

Dylan, Bob, 202

Eberstadt, Mr. and Mrs. Frederick, 288

Edward VII, 82

Edward VIII, .
See
Windsor, Duke of

Efimova, Luiza, 295

Ekland, Britt, 238

Ellis, John Washington (great-grandfather), 14, 19–20, 64, 339n 14

Engelhard, Charles W. Jr., 223–24, 258, 359n 155

Engelhard, Jane, 359n 155

Epic of America, The
(Adams), 46

Ertegun, Ahmet, 288

Ertegun, Mica, 215, 288, 296

Esparza, Ramon, 273, 275

Eula, Joe, 276

Evans, Mary, 209

Fabiola, Queen of Belgium, 274

Fairchild, John, 174, 180, 325

fashion, 6, 146, 245; 1920s New Woman, 57, 58, 107; 1930s chic, 83; 1930s fashion dictators, 82–83; 1940s all-American girl, 133–34; 1960s, boutique design and youth fashion, 227, 368n 227; 1960s, eclecticism, 229; 1960s, explosion of global market and trends, 227; 1960s, hippie-inspired fashion, 228; 1960s, individualism 243; 1960s, Youthquake, 202–3, 226, 227, 250; 1970s recession, 254; American designers, rise of, 125–34, 164–65; American sportswear, 127–29, 164–65, 183, 211, 228–29; American vs. Paris, post-war, 143, 145; Balenciaga closes atelier, 234–35; Balenciaga's innovations, 200; Ballets Russes, influence of, 57; bias cut in, 84, 279, 280, 310; Chanel and, 85–88 (
see also
Chanel, Coco); as cultural phenomenon, 323; Diaghilev's influence, 37; dressmaker's lobby (CFDA), 277; DV in the 1930s, 84–88, 110; DV's assessment of American, 1930s, 122–23; DV's ideas and trends, 128–30, 165, 194, 211, 213–16, 321; DV's influence on American women, 1, 180, 216; DV-supported American designers and manufacturers, 164–65; feminism and antifashion, 249, 252–53; the Flapper, 57, 58, 73; the Gibson girl, 46; as global industry, 166–67; Hollywood's influence, 113, 280; identity and, 324, 328; international beau monde, influence of, 113; international fashion centers, 211, 215; Italian designers, 161, 211, 212, 324, 366n 211;
mannequin du monde
, 85, 146; New Look, 145–46, 161, 358n 145; nudity in, 246; Paris couture, 83–88, 119, 125, 144–47, 235 (
see also
Paris, France;
specific designers
); personality and best-dressed list, 1935, 88; photography, 74, 107–9, 130, 131–34, 156–57, 182, 183, 192, 205, 212, 248 (
see also specific photographers
); Poiret abandons the corset, 37; post-war curvaceous silhouette, 144–47; ready-to-wear, rise of 227–28; as reflective of times, 7, 228–29, 241, 322; Schiaparelli's innovations, 83, 84, 112; as self-expression, 261; sexual attraction and, 324; shopping and, 58; society women as trendsetters, 78, 82–83, 111; Snow's influence on women, 161–62; socioeconomic conditions and, 131, 144; transformation of self and, 328–29; women working in, 130, 356n 130; World War II and, 125–34, 144.
See also
New York City; Paris, France;
specific designers

Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Guy de, 76

Faucigny-Lucinge, Prince Jean-Louis de, 78

Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Jean-Louis de (née Baba d'Erlanger), 77–78, 83, 88, 90, 96

Fellowes, Daisy, 83, 110–11, 118, 121, 274, 301

Feminine Mystique, The
(Friedan), 226–27, 243–44

Fendi, 366n 211

Ferguson, Elsie, 46

Fish, Mrs. Stuyvesant, 16

FitzGerald, Frances, 233, 240–41, 251

Fitzgerald, F. Scott, 58, 339n 14

Flanner, Janet, 140

Fogarty, Anne, 234

Fokine, Michel, 35, 60, 343n 35

Fool There Was, A
(film), 54

Forquet, Federico, 212

Frankau, Ethel, 177

Fraser, Lady Antonia, 215

Free Speech Movement, 202

Friedan, Betty, 226–27, 243, 244

Frisco, Joe, 216

Frissell, Toni, 130

Funny Face
(film), 169–70

Galanos, James, 164, 190, 215, 246

Galitzine, Irene, 161

Gallant, Ara, 208, 234, 255, 276, 369n 235

Garbo, Greta, 90, 113, 237, 282, 285, 302

Geldzahler, Henry, 31

George V, 27, 82, 301, 350n 82

Germany: DV in, 1930s, 93–94, 351n 93; fascism and, 116–17; Hitler's rise, 94; Night of the Long Knives, 94

Gernreich, Rudi, 183

Gershwin, Ira, 136

Getty, Talitha, 252

Gibson girl, 46

Givenchy, Hubert de, 175, 176, 196, 238, 242, 315

Glamour
magazine, 170

Glass of Fashion, The
(Beaton), 153

Godden, Rumer, 212

Goldberg, Vicki, 131

Goodman, Tonne, 284, 373n 284

Gosse, Sir Edmund, 75

Gould, Mrs. George, 24

Graham, Katharine, 264, 274

Grant, Cary, 282

Gray, Francine du Plessix, 182

Greene, Alexander Plunket, 199

Green Hat, The
(Arlen), 58

Grimes, Tammy, 196

Griswold, Marjorie, 130–31, 266

Gross, Michael, 277

Guest, C. Z., 155, 168, 296, 320

Guinness, Gloria, 155, 276

Guitry, Sacha, 113

Gulbenkian, Nubar, 82

Haig, Douglas, 52

Halston (Roy Halston Frowick), 178, 275, 276, 280, 288, 296, 321

Happiest Millionaire, The
(Robertson), 150

Hardy, Françoise, 195

Harlem Renaissance, 60

Harnett, Sunny, 206

Harper's Bazaar
(formerly
Harper's Bazar
), 96; advertisers, 111, 124, 132, 163–64, 172, 360n 156; article by Emily Dalziel, 62, 63, 109, 347n 62; Avedon at, 156–57, 162, 175, 179, 204–5; Bacall as model, 134–36; Balenciaga and, 161; Bousquet as Paris editor, 161; Brodovitch as art director, 108–9, 115, 132, 156, 157, 171, 172; Chanel's return and, 162; circulation, 110, 156, 253; clothes and style of staff, 157; color photography of Dahl-Wolfe in, 131–32; daring innovations, 108, 109, 132; designers supported by, 164–66; Dior's New Look and, 145–46, 358n 145; “Dovima with Elephants,” 162; DV and anecdote of billiard table green, 173, 362n 173; DV arrives at, 105; DV as fashion editor covering New York, 1, 2, 119–37, 162–67; DV as model, 133; DV as “Why Don't You?” columnist, 1, 112–19, 121, 139, 326, 354n 112; DV hired, 102–4, 353n 103; DV on the New Look, 145–46, 358n 145; DV photographed in, 110; DV quits, 180 ; DV's admirers, 158; DV's Brewster house used for photo shoots, 139; DV's clothing and makeup, 157, 360n 157; DV's detractors, 158–59; DV's fashion ideas, 123–24, 130, 165; DV's importance to, 168, 180; DV's language in, 119, 126, 169, 323; DV's observations on the lifestyle of socialites, 111–12; DV's salary, 119, 355n 119, 179; DV's task defined by Snow, 163; DV's taste, 74–76; DV's working with others, 130–31; fascism and, 116–17; Fellowes as Paris editor, 110–11; fiction published in, 110; first all-American issue, 126; graphic design at, 156; Hearst executives and, 171; “I'd Be Lost Without” feature, 111–12; individualism of the 1960s, 168; international beau monde in, 110–11; Italian designers in, 161, 211; Kennedy family photos in, 179; ; McFadden as managing editor, 110; mentors and teaching at, 158, 173; models for, 168–69; “No Place Like Home” article, 136–37; nudity in, 246; office of, 110; parodied in
Funny Face
, 169–70; “Pearls of Little Price,” 132; photography in, 107–9, 131–34, 156–57, 172, 173 (
see also specific photographers
); photo shoot at Taliesin West, 133; poaching
Vogue
staff, 106, 110; post-war changes, 156–57; production process at, 166–67; readership, 116, 126–27, 147, 168–69; Snow and Paris couture, 119, 147; Snow as editor in chief, 102–11, 118, 132, 136, 147, 157, 161, 164, 180; Snow replaced, 170–71; Snow's vision, 107, 108, 109–10; training women's tastes and, 163, 180; as
Vogue
rival, 105–10; White as editor in chief, 171–73, 179, 180, 206; “Why Don't You?” column parodied, 117–18; Wolf as art director, 172, 173; World War II and, 126–34

Harriman, Mrs. William Averell, 111–12

Harris, Alexandra, 80

Hart, Catherine Carlisle, 203

Hart, Moss, 136, 203

Haslam, Nicholas, 197, 201, 289, 316; on DV, 2, 5; as friend of DV and Reed, 197, 367n 225; at
Vogue
, 181, 183, 218

Hawkins, Ashton, 269, 270–71

Hawks, Howard, 135

Hearst, William Randolph, 105, 108, 115, 117, 171

Hearst Publications, 103, 110, 119, 171, 355n 119

Hemphill, Christopher, 30, 39, 47, 97, 122, 222, 245, 313, 325;
Allure
and, 300–301; recording DV, 300, 342n 30, 349n 73

Henri Bendel (store), 117

Hepburn, Audrey, 196, 266, 282, 302

Herman, Stan, 281

Herrera, Carolina, 307–8

Higgins, Eugene, 17–18

Hitler, Adolph, 94, 116–17, 206

Hobsbawm, Eric, 144

Hoffman, Ellis (uncle), 18, 341n 19

Hoffman, George (grandfather), 13–14, 339n 14

Holzer, Jane (Baby Jane), 197, 227, 288

Hooper, Bett, 117

Horst, 131, 183, 184, 201, 215, 218, 219, 357n 131

Hotel Beau-Rivage, Ouchy, Switzerland, 101–2

Hoving, Thomas, 267, 268, 278, 293–94; DV and, 268–69, 274, 280, 286, 311

Howe, Mrs. William Deering, 112

Hoyningen-Huene, George, 74, 110, 131, 140

Hughes, Fred, 289–92, 305–6, 307, 376n 305; recording DV, 299–300

Hugo, Victor (Warhol model), 288

Hulanicki, Barbara, 227, 368n 227

Hunnewell, “Baby Belle”, 67

Hunnewell, Hollis, 44–45

Huston, Anjelica, 241–42, 287

Hutton, Lauren, 230–31, 233, 246, 254, 321

Iman, 287

Interview
magazine, 288, 291, 302, 376n 305

In the Russian Style
(ed. Onassis), 294, 296

Isham, Sandra, 313

Jacobs, Marc, 326

Jagger, Bianca, 288

Jagger, Mick, 5, 198, 288, 320

Jamail, Stephen, 314, 326

James, Charles, 5

Janssen's restaurant, 201

Javits, Mrs. Jacob, 279

Jay Thorpe, 133, 357n 133

John, Augustus, 155

John-Fredericks milliners, 121

Johnson, Betsey, 232, 368n 227

Johnson, Lady Bird, 201

Johnson, Philip, 291

Johnson, Sydney, 271

Jourdan, Charles, 193–94

Junior Bazaar
, 156, 360n 156

Kamali, Norma, 298

Kaufman, Anne, 58

Kaufman, Beatrice, 110, 136

Kaufman, Elizabeth, 44

Kaufman, George S., 136

Kavanagh, Joan, 242

Keith, Slim, 155

Kelly, Grace, 282

Kemp, Isabel, 139–40

Kennedy, Courtney, 307

Kennedy, Ethel, 307

Kennedy, Jacqueline (Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis);
Allure
and, 300–301, 311; American designers and, 176–77; Cassini and, 177–78; criticism of clothes by press, 174, 362n 174; DV as fashion advisor, 174–79; DV as friend, 5, 27, 266, 269, 296, 298, 311, 314, 320, 362n 174; Freck and Betty Vreeland and, 175; Givenchy and, 175;
The Glory of Russian Costume
exhibit and, 293, 294; hat by Halston, 178; inauguration gown, 176, 177; muff for inauguration, DV's idea, 178; offended by Hughes, 307; Party of the Year committee president, 296, 298; Pucci and, 178;
In the Russian Style
, 294, 296; in
Vogue
, 193

Kennedy, John F., 174–75, 178, 201; DV at inauguration, 179

Kennedy, Joseph, 177

Kennedy, Robert F., 240

Kennedy, Rose, 274

Kent, Duchess of, 113

Key, Emily (great-grandmother), 14

Key, Francis Scott, 14, 23, 339n 14

Khan, Aga, 101–2

Khan, Aly, 187

Khanh, Emanuelle, 195, 200, 368n 227

Kidd, David, 161

Kinloch, Alexander (brother-in-law), 73, 76

Kinloch, Alexandra Dalziel (sister), 22, 25, 28, 30, 31, 34, 50, 71, 73, 95–96; beauty of, 43, 51, 342n 28; DV and, 23, 27, 43, 53–54; DV's wedding and, 67

Kinloch, Sir David, 73

Kinloch, Emi-Lu (niece), 137–40, 151, 222

Kirkland, Sally, 128

Kissinger, Henry, 315, 319

Klein, Adolph, 128

Klein, Calvin, 276

Klein, William, 183, 236

Koch, Max, 281

Koda, Harold, 280, 297, 308, 322, 325

Kornbluth, Jesse, 303, 317

Korshunova, Tamara, 295

Kublin, Tom, 273

Lady in the Dark
(Broadway musical), 136–37, 160, 170

Lambert, Eleanor, 176, 268, 269, 276, 277

Lane, Kenneth Jay, 277, 288, 318; DV and, 11, 262–63, 276, 281, 286; on DV and Reed, 223; DV befriends, 165–66; DV's jewelry and, 317

Langlade, Françoise de.
See
de la Renta, Françoise

Lanvin, 224

Lanza, Mario, 148–49

L'Atlantide
(film), 92–93

Lauren, Ralph, 312

La Vine, Robert, 280

Lawford, Valentine, 154, 218, 219

Lawrence, Gertrude, 136–37, 301

Lazar, Irving “Swifty,” 7

le Bourhis, Katell, 314

Lenox Hill Hospital, 319, 320

Lerman, Leo, 288, 318, 375n 303

Leser, Tina, 133

Levin, Phyllis Lee, 76, 90, 139