In the Hands of a Chef (3 page)
Read In the Hands of a Chef Online
Authors: Jody Adams
H
omemade mayonnaise will be a
culinary epiphany if you’ve never made it before, both from the standpoint of taste and the sense of astonished accomplishment that goes along with making it. There are literally dozens of variations with different herbs and flavorings to transform the basic recipe into a memorable sauce. I’ve listed a few of the classics below. The convention in making mayonnaise is to use 1 cup of oil for each egg yolk. My version halves the amount of oil, resulting in a richer flavor and texture. Please use only absolutely fresh eggs, and allow all of the ingredients to come to room temperature before beginning the recipe.
Homemade mayonnaise will keep for 4 to 5 days in the refrigerator. Keep in mind that the flavor of fresh herbs may fade after a day or two, although the mayonnaise will remain usable for some time longer.
MAKES A GENEROUS ½ CUP
1 extra-large egg yolk
½ teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
¼ cup vegetable oil
¼ cup extra virgin olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.
In a small bowl, beat the egg yolk with the mustard and lemon juice. Whisk in the vegetable oil, one drop at a time. This will establish the all-important emulsion; after you’ve made an emulsion with the vegetable oil, you can then begin adding the olive oil in a thin, steady stream, continuing to beat all the while. If it seems as though the olive oil isn’t being incorporated into the emulsion, stop adding oil, and keep beating. If it seems as though the emulsion still isn’t incorporating the oil, beat a drop or two of water into the mixture to loosen it. Then resume adding the oil.
2.
Season with salt and pepper. If the mayonnaise seems too thick, beat in a drop or two of water. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve.
Aïoli
Aïoli is a traditional French sauce of mayonnaise flavored with minced garlic. Although some versions call for a bit of potato as a thickener, I prefer to keep things simple—just mayonnaise and garlic. As a condiment for soups, fish, and vegetables, aïoli is ubiquitous in southern France and coastal Italy. There’s even a French dish called a grand aïoli, composed of various cooked vegetables served with aïoli for dipping. To make aïoli, simply mince and then mash 2 cloves of garlic with a pinch of salt until they form a paste, then beat into the basic mayonnaise.
Rouille
Rouille is a peppery condiment used to top the floating croutons in the Provençal
soupe de poisson
(fish soup), but there’s no reason you can’t use it with other seafood dishes. I particularly
like it with cold seafood salads. Some versions of rouille include potatoes or bread crumbs to provide the sauce with body; my favorite is this version, based on mayonnaise. Mince and then mash 2 cloves of garlic with a little salt until they form a paste. (Or use more or less garlic according to taste.) Beat the garlic paste, 4 teaspoons paprika, and ¼ teaspoon cayenne pepper into the basic mayonnaise.
Rémoulade
Rémoulade is another classic French condiment, with a bracing flavor of anchovies, cornichons, capers, and herbs. Although it is traditionally served with seafood, I also like it with cold pork or lamb. I never make less than a cup of rémoulade, and those are the quantities I list here. Make a double recipe (1 cup) of the basic mayonnaise. Combine ½ cup finely chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley; 2 tablespoons finely chopped tarragon; 2 garlic cloves, minced; 1 shallot, minced; 2 tablespoons capers, rinsed and coarsely chopped; 2 tablespoons finely chopped cornichons; and 4 anchovy fillets, rinsed and minced, and blend well, then mix into the mayonnaise. Add 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice and season with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper. Taste, and adjust the seasoning as necessary, adding more lemon juice (up to 2 tablespoons in all) a teaspoon at a time. (Makes about 1¼ cups.)
Herbal Mayonnaise
Add 2 to 4 tablespoons of finely chopped fresh herbs to the basic mayonnaise. Tarragon, basil, chervil, thyme, and dill all make delicious additions.
T
his is a jewel-like composed
terrine made with two different types of goat cheese, hazelnuts, dried figs, and sweet sherry. Don’t skimp on the quality of the ingredients. Nothing is cooked or altered in any way, so the ingredients should be the best available. Buy a high-quality fresh goat cheese that has some goat in the taste and don’t skimp on the figs. Turkish figs, especially from Ismir, are still plump with residual moisture and are often sticky with the reduced sugar sap of their own juices. If you can’t find Turkish figs, substitute the plumpest dried figs you can find. The grape leaves provide a slightly tart, dramatic wrapping, but they can be omitted if you prefer. The terrine will keep for several days refrigerated.
MAKES TWELVE 2-OUNCE SERVINGS
¼ pound high-quality dried figs, preferably Turkish
¼ cup sweet sherry, such as Pedro Jiménez
5 grape leaves preserved in brine (available in jars in the Middle Eastern section of your grocery store), rinsed and drained
1 pound fresh goat cheese, divided into 5 equal portions
¼ pound aged goat cheese (such as Coach Farm Aged Brick or Bûcheron), crumbled
½ cup hazelnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped
1.
Remove the stems from the figs and slice the figs crosswise into ¼-inch slices. Put into a bowl and pour the sherry over them. Allow them to steep for 30 minutes, then drain if there’s any remaining liquid.
2.
Line a 6×3-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, letting several extra inches drape over the sides (there should be enough so that once the pan is filled, the overhanging plastic wrap can be folded over to cover the top completely). The plastic wrap makes it easy to unmold the terrine after chilling; if you’re using a metal pan that isn’t nonreactive, the wrap also prevents the metal from interacting with the cheese mixture.
3.
Line the sides and bottom of the pan with grape leaves, allowing a couple of inches of leaves to drape over the sides so that after the terrine is filled, the leaves can be folded back over the top. Spread 1 portion of the fresh goat cheese over the bottom of the pan and top with half of the aged goat cheese. Lay half the figs over the cheese, top with another portion of fresh cheese, and cover with half the hazelnuts. Top with another portion of fresh goat cheese and then the remaining aged cheese. Lay the remaining figs over the cheese, top with another layer of fresh goat cheese, and cover with the remaining hazelnuts. Finish with a final layer of fresh goat cheese. Fold the grape leaves back over the terrine, followed by the plastic wrap. Tap the pan several times on the counter to release any air bubbles. Refrigerate for 4 hours to set.
4.
Invert the terrine onto a platter. The terrine should easily come out of the pan once it’s chilled. Carefully peel away the plastic wrap, so you don’t tear the grape leaves. Cut a slice from the terrine with a knife so the inside is visible. Present the terrine and end slice on a small platter.
S
pread the nuts on a single layer on a sheet pan and toast in a 350°F oven until golden and aromatic, about 10 minutes. Keep a close watch while they toast—a minute or two of neglect is all it takes to burn them.
Seeds should be toasted on top of the stove to minimize the risk of burning. Cook them in a dry pan, tossing constantly, just until they become aromatic, 3 to 4 minutes. Immediately transfer them to a cool plate. Always grind seeds after toasting.
O
n my first visit to
Northern Italy, I was struck by how often there were only two antipasto choices: a smooth liver pâté or some sliced prosciutto. These seemed to make up the antipasti selection in every small restaurant I visited. They were strategic choices for family-run businesses where every dollar counted: prosciutto was a dependable option for conservative clients, while more adventurous diners could try the house pâté—which also gave the kitchen an opportunity to shine without investing in costlier ingredients.
This pâté is based on several with raisins I tried in Venice. I use the livers reserved from Rialto’s roasted duck entrée, but you can substitute chicken livers; duck livers simply increase the richness.
MAKES TWENTY-FOUR 2-OUNCE SERVINGS¼ cup currants
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons Marsala
2½ pounds fresh duck livers (available from many butchers; substitute chicken livers if necessary)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 pound (4 sticks) plus 2 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 large shallots, minced
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 ounce dried porcini, reconstituted in warm water (see page 271) and finely chopped (soaking liquid saved)
5 anchovies, rinsed and finely chopped
¼ cup finely chopped fresh sage plus 1 bunch sage for garnish
½ cup cornichons
½ cup small pickled onions
½ cup Dijon mustard (optional)
DO AHEAD:
The pâté needs to chill for at least 6 hours before serving, and it will keep for up to 5 days in the refrigerator.
1.
Put the currants in a small bowl, add 2 tablespoons of the Marsala, and set aside to plump.
2.
Meanwhile, clean the livers of all sinew and veins. Season with salt and pepper. Heat 1 tablespoon of the olive oil and 1 tablespoon of the butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. As soon as the butter stops foaming, add the livers, and sear on both sides. Don’t crowd the pan; cook the livers in batches if necessary. By the time the livers are lightly seared, they should be cooked to medium-rare. Drain in a colander and allow to cool.
3.
Heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil with 1 tablespoon of the butter in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the shallots and garlic and cook until tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the porcini, porcini soaking liquid, and the remaining 1 cup Marsala and cook until the liquids have reduced to a glaze, about 9 minutes. Let cool to room temperature.
4.
Put the cooled livers in the food processor and process to a paste. Add the Marsala reduction, the anchovies, and sage. Pulse 3 times.
Add the remaining 1 pound butter, 1 stick at a time, processing until completely incorporated. Transfer the liver paste to a bowl. Fold in the currants, with the Marsala they were soaking in, and season with salt and pepper.
5.
Line a 6×3-inch loaf pan with plastic wrap, letting several inches drape over the sides, so that you can fold it back over the pâté once the pan is filled. Pour the pâté into the pan. Tap the pan several times on the counter to remove any air bubbles. Fold the plastic wrap over the top and refrigerate for at least 6 hours.
6.
To serve, carefully lift the pâté out of the terrine and invert it onto a platter. Peel away the plastic wrap. Garnish with the bunch of sage and a small handful of the cornichons and onions. Offer the remaining pickles on the side, along with the mustard, if desired.
P
Pizza dough lends itself to
quick homemade breadsticks and crackers (never throw away leftover dough for this reason). These breadsticks incorporate chopped walnuts and fresh herbs, but you can play with a wide array of other ingredients. Fiery-food lovers can sprinkle the dough with red pepper flakes or cayenne pepper. Finely chopped cooked bacon, prosciutto, ricotta salata, crumbled feta, and chopped olives are also good. I’ve even rolled cooked lentils into the dough. Pick only a couple of ingredients for any one batch of breadsticks or their tastes begin to muddle. Keep the quantity of any add-ins down to a cup per half-pound of dough and chop them quite fine, so the breadsticks don’t fall apart.
MAKES ABOUT 24 BREADSTICKS
About 2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ recipe Pizza Dough (page 123), cut into 4 pieces and allowed to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes
Flour for rolling out the dough
1 cup walnuts, toasted and finely chopped
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh herbs (such as basil, parsley, thyme, tarragon, etc.)
¼ cup freshly grated Parmesan
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Rub a large sheet pan with a light coating of olive oil, 2 to 3 teaspoons.
2.
Roll out each piece of pizza dough on a lightly floured surface into a rough rectangle 4 to 5 inches wide and about 8 inches long. Rub each rectangle of dough with a teaspoon of the olive oil. Sprinkle each one with ¼ cup of the walnuts, 1½ teaspoons of the herbs, 1 tablespoon of the cheese, and salt and pepper. Roll over the ingredients with the rolling pin to press them into the dough.
3.
Slice the dough lengthwise into ¾-inch-wide strips. Grasp a strip of dough by both ends and give it 4 or 5 twists while stretching it, until it’s about 10 to 12 inches long. Set the twisted strip down on the sheet pan. (If the dough seems to be stretching only in the middle, lay the strip down and do a couple of ministretches in the thicker spots to even things out before you twist the dough.) Repeat the process with the remaining dough. You should get about 2 dozen breadsticks.
4.
Bake until crisp and golden, about 10 minutes. Allow the breadsticks to cool completely before serving. They’ll keep overnight in a tightly sealed container. Don’t refrigerate or they’ll become soggy.
T
he crisp puffiness of these
delicate crackers tempts people to pick them up, and they give off a wonderful aroma of garlic and rosemary. They won’t last long. Any of the items used to flavor breadsticks (see page 19) can be sprinkled on top of the crackers just before baking, as long as you do it in moderation. The aim is an extremely light cracker with a hint of seasoning.
MAKES 40 TO 50 CRACKERS
About 3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
½ recipe Basic Pizza Dough (page 123), cut into 4 pieces, rolled into balls, and allowed to rest at room temperature for 30 minutes
Flour for rolling out the dough
½ cup finely chopped fresh rosemary
10 to 12 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1.
Preheat the oven to 400°F. Rub two sheet pans with a light coating of olive oil, 2 to 3 teaspoons apiece.
2.
Roll out each ball of dough on a lightly floured surface into a round as thin as possible, about ⅛ inch thick. Transfer to the sheet pans. Rub each round with a teaspoon of the olive oil. Sprinkle each one with 2 tablespoons of the rosemary, a quarter of the garlic, and cup of the cheese, and season with salt and pepper.
3.
Using a pizza cutter, slice each round of dough into 10 to 12 thin wedges. Bake until crisp and golden, about 15 minutes. Allow to cool before serving. They’ll keep overnight in a tightly-sealed container. Don’t refrigerate or they’ll become soggy.
These are large, dramatic wafer-thin
crackers adapted from the traditional Sardinian flatbread called
carta di musica
(the name means “sheet music”). I like to serve Parchment Bread as a simple starter, matched only with a bowl of good olives, or as a base for salads, where it absorbs the flavors but remains crisp.
If you don’t have a pizza stone or baking tiles, you can bake the crackers on a baking sheet dusted with cornmeal.
MAKES EIGHT 8-INCH ROUND CRACKERS
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour, plus additional for rolling out the dough ½ cup semolina flour ½ teaspoon kosher salt About ¾ cup warm water Cornmeal for dusting
DO AHEAD:
You can prepare the dough up to 3 days in advance. Follow the recipe through Step 1 and refrigerate the dough until you’re ready to finish the recipe.
1.
Mix the flour, semolina, and salt in a mixing bowl. Gradually add just enough warm water to form a dough. The object is to add enough water to make a solid, quite soft mass of dough (softer, say, than pizza dough), but not so much that the dough becomes sticky rather than tacky. Knead the dough until it becomes elastic and smooth, about 3 minutes. Form it into a ball, wrap it in plastic wrap, and let it rest for at least 2 hours. (Refrigerate the dough if allowing it to rest for longer than 2 hours.)
2.
Place a pizza stone or unglazed baking tiles on the center rack and preheat the oven to 450°F.
3.
After the dough has rested (bring to room temperature if chilled), unwrap it, divide it into 8 equal pieces, and shape each one into a ball. Cover with a towel and let rest for 10 minutes.
4.
Using plenty of flour to prevent the dough from sticking to the rolling surface, roll each ball into a very thin circle 8 to 9 inches across. You should be able to read through the dough.
5.
One at a time, transfer the parchment bread circles to a pizza peel dusted with cornmeal and slide them onto the pizza stone or tiles in the oven. Add only as many circles as will fit comfortably on the stone or tiles without touching, and bake for about 1 minute on each side, or until golden and crispy; they’re easy to turn over with a pair of tongs. Remove from the oven and let cool. Repeat until all the circles are cooked. Parchment bread can be stored for about 3 days in an airtight container. Don’t refrigerate or they’ll become soggy.
M
orue is the French word
for salt cod, the equivalent of the Italian
baccalà,
Spanish
baccalao,
or Portuguese
bacalhau.
Originally fresh cod was salted and partially dried to preserve it during the long trip from the Atlantic fisheries to European seaports. Salt cod ranges from quite firm to pliable in texture, but regardless of its texture, it becomes quite soft after soaking. Brandade is a Provençal dish in which olive oil and usually garlic (and sometimes potatoes and cream) are blended with shreds of the fish resurrected from its salted state.
Transforming salt cod into the ambrosial purée of brandade is quite easy and satisfying out of all proportion to the effort involved. The spectacular finished product bears no resemblance to its dried origins, especially when you add a little cream and potato to smooth out the texture. Spread on croutons, it’s a delicious hors d’oeuvre (see page 24). You can also heat it with some chopped roasted red peppers and a little olive oil or cream for a pasta or gnocchi sauce.
MAKES ABOUT 3 CUPS
1 pound center-cut salt cod (the thickest part of the fillet)
1 medium baking potato (6 ounces)
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
4 shallots, minced
1 cup heavy cream
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
DO AHEAD:
Soak the cod, following the instructions in Step 1.
1.
Soak the salt cod in the refrigerator for 12 hours, or longer if needed, in a large bowl of cold water, changing the water 3 or more times. When ready, the cod should not be completely salt-free, or it will lack its distinctive flavor. It should taste a bit more salty than a fish that you’ve seasoned and cooked with salt.
2.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.
3.
Bake the potato until tender, about 50 to 60 minutes. As soon as the potato comes out of the oven, split it in half, scoop out the steaming flesh, and rice it. If you don’t rice the potato while it’s still warm, it will turn into a gummy mess.
4.
While the potato is cooking, drain and rinse the salt cod, then put it into a medium pot and cover with cold salted water. Bring to a boil. Reduce the heat and simmer until the fish is cooked through, about 10 minutes. Allow to cool in the liquid.
5.
Heat the olive oil in a small saucepan over moderate heat. Add the garlic and shallots and cook until soft, about 4 minutes. Add the cream and simmer for about 7 minutes, to reduce slightly. Remove from the heat.
6.
Drain the cod and pat dry with paper towels. Remove the skin and bones, then put it into a food processor and pulse a few times to break it into coarse pieces. With the machine running,
add the garlic-cream mixture in a steady stream. Transfer the cod to a medium bowl, add the potato, and stir until everything’s mixed well. Season with salt and pepper and 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice. The saltiness of soaked salt cod varies quite a bit, so taste the brandade and add more salt and/or lemon juice if necessary, adding additional lemon juice only ½ teaspoon at a time and mixing thoroughly. If not using the brandade immediately, cover and refrigerate it. It will keep for up to a week.
T
he French regard
brandade de morue, the seasoned purée of salt cod, as a special treat. It used to be served as a reward on Saturday for having endured the self-denial of a Friday fast. For those unfamiliar with its flavor, it is a delicious mystery.
When tomatoes are in season, add a slice of tomato between the brandade and the toast. A wedge of marinated artichoke heart or a strip of peeled roasted red pepper works well on top. A side bowl of mixed olives offers a sharp, briny contrast to the unctuous creaminess of the cod purée. Other optional garnishes are rinsed capers, sliced scallions, or cherry tomato halves.
MAKES 20 TO 25 HORS D’OEUVRES
4 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley, plus several sprigs for garnish
3 cups Brandade de Morue (page 22), at room temperature
1 loaf French bread, cut into ½-inch-thick slices and toasted
1.
Preheat the oven to 400°F.
2.
Mix the chopped parsley with the brandade. Place a mound of brandade atop each slice of toast. Set the toasts on a sheet and bake until the brandade is warmed through.
3.
Arrange the toasts on a platter, garnish with sprigs of parsley, and serve.