In the Hands of a Chef (5 page)

3. Pour the stock through a fine strainer into another large pot or container. Refrigerate. After the stock has cooled, skim off the fat that has accumulated on the surface. Refrigerate or freeze the stock until ready to use.

F
ish stock is simple to
make, takes far less time than poultry stock, and freezes well. Roasting the bones is actually easier than sautéing them, and it increases the depth of flavor. When the time comes to make a seafood soup or risotto, you’ll be glad you invested an hour in this.

Homemade fish stock will keep for 5 days refrigerated; boil refrigerated stock before using it if it is older than a day or two. Refrigerate stock for several hours before freezing. Frozen stock will keep for up to 6 months; boil before using.

MAKES 3 QUARTS

5 pounds fish bones, and the heads, from white-fleshed fish such as cod, haddock, or flounder

¼ cup vegetable oil

3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

2 sprigs thyme

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

2 leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise and swirled in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1 medium carrot, thinly sliced

2 celery stalks, thinly sliced crosswise

1 small fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, sliced in half lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise

¼ pound mushrooms, cleaned and coarsely chopped

2 cups dry white wine

1.
Using kitchen shears, remove the eyeballs and gills from the fish heads. Put the bones in a large pot and rinse under cold running water for at least 30 minutes. Drain.

2.
Preheat the oven to 450°F.

3.
Spread the fish bones in a large roasting pan and pat dry with paper towels. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil and toss well. Roast for 30 minutes, or until all the bones are golden brown.

4.
Meanwhile, pile the parsley, thyme, bay leaves, and peppercorns in the middle of a piece of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle. Set aside.

5.
Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons vegetable oil in a large stockpot over medium-high heat. Add the leeks, onion, carrot, celery, fennel, and mushrooms. Cook until lightly browned, about 10 minutes.

6.
Add the bones to the stockpot, along with the cheesecloth bundle, white wine, and enough water to come ½ inch below the bones. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer. Move the pot toward you so it sits 2 inches off the center of the burner. This will cause the fat and impurities to collect at the edge of the pot closest to you, making it easier to skim them off. Simmer for 30 minutes, skimming as necessary.

7.
Pour the stock through a fine strainer into another large pot or container. Refrigerate. After the stock has cooled, skim off the fat that has accumulated on the surface. Refrigerate or freeze the stock until ready to use.

E
very year, my extended family
manages to get together for one weekend in Barnstable, on Cape Cod, and one night is dedicated to a fixing a lobster dinner. I save the lobster bodies to make stock. After allowing it to cool, I pour the finished stock into ice cube trays and freeze it. The next day, I empty the cubes into freezer bags. Then, for the next six months, I have cubes of lobster stock I can add to soups or use to make quick butter sauces for sautéed seafood.

Homemade lobster stock will keep for 5 days refrigerated; boil refrigerated stock before using it if it is older than a day or two. Refrigerate the stock for several hours before freezing. Frozen stock will keep for up to 6 months; boil before using.

MAKES 3 QUARTS

3 sprigs flat-leaf parsley

2 sprigs tarragon

3 bay leaves

1 teaspoon black peppercorns

¼ cup vegetable oil

2 leeks, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit

1 small onion, thinly sliced

1 medium carrot, thinly sliced crosswise

1 small fennel bulb, trimmed of stalks and tough outer layers, cut in half lengthwise, cored, and thinly sliced crosswise

2 celery stalks, thinly sliced crosswise

5 pounds lobster bodies, rinsed and coarsely chopped

2 tablespoons tomato paste

2 cups dry white wine

½ cup brandy

16-ounces (2 cups) canned whole tomatoes, with their liquid

1.
Pile the parsley, tarragon, bay leaves, and peppercorns in the middle of a piece of cheesecloth and tie into a bundle. Set aside.

2.
Heat 2 tablespoons of the vegetable oil in a large sauté pan over medium-high heat. Add the vegetables and cook until they brown, about 15 minutes. Transfer the vegetables to a stockpot.

3.
Add the remaining 2 tablespoons oil to the sauté pan. Add the lobster bodies and cook until they brown, about 20 minutes, tossing occasionally. If necessary, cook them in a couple of sauté pans or do them in batches.

4.
Add the tomato paste to the pan and cook for 3 minutes. Take the pan off the heat and add the wine and brandy. Return the pan to the heat and stir to deglaze. Transfer everything to the stockpot.

5.
Add the tomatoes to the stockpot, then add enough water to come ½ inch below the top of the contents of the pot. Add the cheesecloth bundle. Bring to a boil over high heat, then lower the heat to a simmer. Move the pot
toward you so it sits 2 inches off the center of the burner. This will cause the fat and impurities to collect at the edge of the pot closest to you, making it easier to skim them off. Simmer for 1 hour.

6.
Pour the stock through a fine strainer into another large pot or container. Refrigerate. After the stock has cooled, skim off the fat that has accumulated on the surface. Refrigerate or freeze the stock until ready to use.

T
his is an August recipe,
a summer finale, when local corn is at its peak. I can’t think of another recipe that squeezes more flavor out of corn than this one. Even the stripped cobs are put to use. This is one case where you should absolutely stick to the times given in the recipe, cooking the kernels briefly in as little water as possible in order to preserve their freshness. The result is an intense creamy hit of corn with absolutely no cream. Smoked bluefish, homemade salsa, and crème fraîche give the soup a little counterpoint and bring your palate back to that wonderful summer corn flavor.

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

6 ears corn, husked

1 small white onion, cut into ¼-inch-thick slices Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 tablespoon extra virgin olive oil

1 medium leek, white part only, trimmed of roots and tough outer leaves, thinly sliced crosswise, and swirled vigorously in a bowl of cold water to remove any grit

1 shallot, thinly sliced

1 ripe avocado

½ cucumber

1 small tomato, peeled (see page 55), seeded, and chopped into ¼-inch dice

2 tablespoons diced (¼-inch) red onion

1 to 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

2 ounces smoked bluefish (substitute smoked salmon if bluefish is unavailable), skin and any bones removed, cut into ¼-inch dice

¼ cup crème fraîche or yogurt

2 tablespoons chopped chives

DO AHEAD:
This soup needs to chill before it is served. Typically I make it the night before, then finish the garnishes before serving. If you’re pressed for time, chill the soup in a shallow bowl in your freezer.

1.
Use a sharp knife to strip the corn kernels from the cobs. Set the kernels aside. Cut each cob into 4 pieces.

2.
Put the cobs into a pot, along with the sliced onion. Add enough water to barely cover. (If you use too much water, the stock will taste thin.) Season with salt and pepper. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat to a simmer and cook for 35 minutes. Discard the cobs.

3.
Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a sauté pan over medium heat. Add the leek and shallot and cook until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Add the corn kernels, season with salt and pepper, and cook until they just start to soften, about 2 minutes. Do not overcook, the corn should still taste fresh. Remove from the heat and set aside until the corn broth finishes cooking

4.
Add the sautéed vegetables to the corn broth and simmer for 5 minutes. Strain the broth into
a bowl and purée the solids in a blender, adding just enough of the broth to make a thick soup. Push the soup through a medium strainer, then chill for at least
3
hours. (You will have about a quart of soup.)

5.
Peel the avocado, remove the pit, and chop the flesh into ¼-inch dice. Peel, seed, and chop the cucumber into ¼-inch dice. Mix the tomato, avocado, cucumber, and diced onion together. Toss with salt, pepper, and lime juice to taste.

6.
Taste the soup and adjust the seasoning if necessary. Distribute the fish evenly among four chilled bowls. Ladle the soup into the bowls. Add a spoonful of the chopped vegetable salad and a spoonful of crème fraîche to each, sprinkle with the chives, and serve immediately.

M
ore often than not in
August, our refrigerator contains a jug of gazpacho. This is a traditional recipe, using grilled tomatoes for added flavor. In Spain, gazpacho is often served with an array of little garnishes—scallions, croutons, minced onion—enabling diners to customize the dish. I’ve added a lobster and corn salad that elevates a simple soup into an elegant summer lunch. If lobster seems too extravagant, simply make the corn salad.

Without the other salad and lobster garnish, this makes about 4 cups of gazpacho; the recipe easily doubles for larger portions or more servings.

MAKES 4 TO 6 SERVINGS

SOUP

16 plum tomatoes (about 3 pounds)

Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

⅓ cup plus ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

¼ cup ½-inch chunks crustless day old white bread

3 tablespoons high-quality red wine vinegar

½ red pepper, peeled with a vegetable peeler, stemmed, seeded, and cut into chunks

½ green pepper, peeled with a vegetable peeler, stemmed, seeded, and cut into chunks

1 cucumber, peeled, seeded, and cut into chunks

½ small red onion, chopped into½-inch dice

½ celery stalk, peeled and chopped into ½-inch dice

1 garlic clove, minced

1 serrano pepper, stemmed, seeded, and thinly sliced

2 tablespoons chopped fresh fiat-leaf parsley

2 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

LOBSTER AND CORN SALAD

2 ears corn, husked and kernels stripped off with a sharp knife (about 1½ cups)

7 ounces freshly cooked lobster meat, cut into ½-inch pieces

¼ cup shelled fava beans, long-blanched (see Fava Notes, page 88) and peeled (optional)

1 scallion, trimmed and thinly sliced

1 serrano pepper, stemmed, seeded and thinly sliced

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon red wine vinegar

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil, plus extra for garnish