Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor (54 page)

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360 | f ur ther reading

Index

Abecassis, Joël, 177

aldehydes: in bread, 135, 136; molecular

Accum, Friedrich Christian, 5

transfer of, between water and oil, 141;

acetic acid, 153

in sausage, 153; in Strecker degrada-

acetone, 116

tions of amino acids, 156, 157

acidity: acidification and aging of meat,

algal fibers, 197–99

173–74; effect on proteins, 43; of wines

alkanes: in sausage, 153; in Spanish hams,

for fondue, 45–46

157

actin (myofibrillary protein), 42, 329

allergies to foods, 121–23

Adenier, Hervé, 225

Alsatian wine, 7, 233–35

adenosine 5-triphosphate (atp), 173

amino acids: cysteine, 58, 132, 171, 237;

adenosine monophosphate, 92

importance to flavor, 5, 170; Maillard

Adrià, Ferran, 149

reactions and Strecker degradations,

aioli, 297

156

albumen, 328

aminotransferase, 317

alcohol: in bread, 135, 136;
cartagènes

amylopectin, 146–47, 194, 195, 231

(
mistelles
) apéritifs, 269–71; consid-

amylose, 70, 146–47, 189–90, 194, 195,

erations of temperature, 10; cooking

231

egg whites, 328–29;
mistelles
, 269–70;

animals: diet of, affecting flavor of flesh,

molecular transfer between water and

155, 156, 166, 203–5; distinguishing

oil, 141; in sausage, 153; whiskey and

between bitter stimuli, 100, 101; frogs’

scotch whiskey, 266–68;
see also
cham-

exposure to capsaicin, 105; gene immu-

pagne; ethanol; wine; wine making;

nization for nonallergic reaction, 123;

wine tasting

primates’ recognition of sweetness,

| 361

animals (
continued
)

Balas, Laurence, 239–41

83–84; rats’ reaction to glutamate, 87,

barrels or vats for wine aging, 270, 271

99;
see also
plants

basting meat, 291

anthocyanins in wine, 54

Baumé, Antoine, 4

antibodies and cross-reactions, 120–21

Bavarian cream, 324

antioxidant agents: aromatic plants as,

Bayonove, Claude, 236, 331, 332

161–63; ascorbic acid (vitamin C), 56;

beans, softening, 59–61

phenols, 161–62; plant phenol acids,

béarnaise sauce: as emulsion, 17; improv-

162

ing with glucose, 283

Anton, Marc, 138

Becarri, Jacopo, 131

apple juice, darkening of, 56, 58

beef: allowing to rest after roasting, 47–49;

aromas: improving for hard sausage,

searing steak, 11, 48; tenderizing by

152–54; measurement of, 115–17; prom-

aging, 173–75; tenderizing by marinat-

ise of synthetic, 154;
see also
odorant

ing, 53–55

molecules; olfaction

beef extract, 25;
see also
stock

aromatic compounds: action of keto-

Beeton, Isabella, 41

glutarate, 317–18; hydrophobic and

Békésy, G. von, 107

hydrophillic, 293; in lactic bacteria,

Bentonite, 57

316–17; preparations by laboratory

benzoin, 163

chemists, 282;
see also
odorant mol-

Berdagué, Jean-Louis, 152, 335

ecules; olfaction

beta-casein, 122–23

art of cooking, 3

beverages.
See
champagne; coffee; milk;

artificial noses, 335

tea; wine

Asakura, S., 213

bicarbonate of soda, 46

ascorbic acid: addition to bread dough, 133;

Bihan, Denis Le, 89

as antioxidant agent, 161; in lemons, 56

bitterness: altered by salt, 94–96; animals’

Auclan, Marcelle, 215

aversion to, 85; discovery of several

Audot, L.-E., 65

types, 100–102

Autran, Jean-Claude, 177

Blake, Anthony, 44, 46

Axelos, Monique, 221, 223

Blanc, Raymond, 68

Axel, Richard, 91

blended whiskey, 266

Bocquet, Félix, 263

Babinski, Henri, 65

Boggio, Vincent, 119

bacteria:
Eubacterium limosum
, 237; in hard

boiling water: air bubbles in, 38; cooking

sausage, 153; lactic, 134, 316;
Lactobacil-

échaudés, gnocchi, or dumplings in,

lus bulgaricus
, 209;
Lactococcus lactis
,

35–37; egg white hardening in, 10;

317;
Listeria
, 124–26; strengthening

hard-boiling eggs in, 31; heating slowly

flavors of cheese, 316–17;
Streptococcus

for broth, 23–24; time required for,

thermophilus
, 209

with or without salt, 71–72

Baelle, Jean-Louis, 245

Bonnefons, Nicolas de, 35

362 | inde x

botrytis fungus (noble rot), 243

champagne, 263; for preserving mush-

Bouchilloux, Patricia, 248

rooms, 183–84

bouillon.
See
stock

carboxylic acid, 66

Boulet, Jean-Claude, 269, 270

Carême, Marie-Antoine (Antonin), 23, 296

Bourriot, Sophie, 212, 213

carotene, 204

brain, processing of information from

cartagènes
of Languedoc (
mistelles
apéritifs),

taste receptors, 88–90

269–71

braising, 168–69

casein proteins: as emulsifying agent, 195;

brandy, for braising meat, 168

in foams, 151; in milk, 44–45, 122–23,

brazzein, 84

195, 209, 214

bread: behavior of wheat flour, 131–33;

Castelain, Chantal, 140

flavor from fermentation of yeast, 134–

caudalie
, 237

36; freezing, 231–32; French bread’s

cauliflower, floating or sinking in boiling

flavor and crustiness, 134; for putting

water, 36

out fire of hot peppers, 104; retaining

Caulliez, Roland, 86

freshness, 230–32

Cerf, Barbara, 89

Brillat-Savarin, Jean-Anthelme, xi, 1–2,

champagne: chilling, 254–55; demi (small

7–10, 12–15, 23, 88

bottle) versus magnum, 263–65; foam

Briones, G. Lopez, 183

of, 257–59, 263; lipstick’s effect on

broth.
See
stock

fizz, 262, 272; preserving fizz, 74–75,

browning of meat, 47–48

260–62; source of fizz, 257–59;
see

brown pigment (fruits or vegetables turn-

also
wine

ing brown), 56–58, 191, 192

champagne flutes, 260–62

Brussels sprouts, 198

Chantilly cheese, 298–99, 329

bubbles.
See
foam of champagne; foams

Chantilly chocolate, 319–21

Buck, Linda, 91

charcoal, activated, as enzyme inhibitor, 57

Burkitt, Denis, 197

Charles, Marielle, 144

butter: absorption of odorant molecules,

Chaudhari, Nirupa, 98

292–93; making spreadable, 285–87

Chaveron, Henri, 225

Chavignol Chantilly, 298–99, 329

cadaveric rigidity, 173, 174

cheese “béarnaise”, 329

caffeine, bitterness lessened by salt, 95

cheese fondue, question of “doctoring,”

Caicedo, Alejandro, 100, 101, 102

44–46

calcium carbonate, 60

cheesemaking: action of rennet, 45, 317;

Camembert, 202

aging, 316; diet of cows affecting

capsaicin, 103–5

flavor, 203–5; from raw milk, 126, 200,

Capsicum family of hot peppers

204; research supporting commercial

caramel: structure of, 227–29; varying

protection, 200–202; strengthening

flavor of, 283

flavors with bacteria, 316–17

carbon dioxide: bubbles from yeast, 131; in

cheese mousse, 298

Index
| 363

cheeses: absorption of odorant molecules

collagen in meat: as baseline for measur-

by, 292; Camembert, 202; goat, 206–8;

ing toughness, 174; contraction of, 48,

Gruyère, 204; as milk “preserves”, 212;

49, 329; dissolving by immersion in

texture of, 201–2

acid solutions, 53; dityrosine bonds in,

cheese soufflés, 38

133–34; osmotic transfer, 73; as sheath

chelation (sequestration), calcium ions, 45

for muscle fiber, 50, 73

chemistry, as part of culinary art, 3, 4, 5, 8,

Collignan, Antoine, 307