Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor (57 page)

66; in process of smoking fish, 307;

resilin proteins, 133

seasoning meat before cooking, 50–52,

ribose, 171

71, 72; and time for water to boil,

Richard, Hubert, 162

71–72; varieties of, 94

Robillard, Bertrand, 258

satiation, sensation of, 86, 87, 98

Roper, Stephen, 100, 101, 102

sauces: avoiding lumps in, 146–47; Chavi-

Roquefort Chantilly, 298–99

gnol Chantilly, Roquefort Chantilly,

Rousselot-Paillet, Dominique, 158

etc., 298–99, 329; as emulsions, 17;

Rousset-Akrim, Sylvie, 158

flour for thickening, 196; keeping

roux, avoiding lumps in, 146–47

hot, 195; thickening caused by starch,

Rumford, Count (Benjamin Thompson), 4

194–95

saucisson
, 152

sabayons (
zabaglione
), 215–17

sausage, 152–54

saccharine, 86

Schaeffer, Alex, 235

Saccharomyces cerevisiae
(brewer’s yeast),

science of food, 3, 5, 6, 10, 11, 16

134

scotch whiskey, 266–68

Sacchi, Bartholemeo (Platina), 3

Scoville, Wilbur, 104

Saguy, Sam, 64

sea hair, 198

Sailland, Maurice Edmond (Curnonsky),

sea lettuce, 198

237, 282

searing meat, 11, 48

Saint-Pierre, Bernard, 245

second messengers, 92

salad dressings, migration of odorant mol-

sedimentation of particles, 26–28

ecules, 144–45

Seguin, Gérard, 233

salad greens: effect of salt on lettuce, 73;

Semur, Jean-Paul, 288

packaged and ready-to-eat, 182

separating funnel, 293

salicylhydroxamic acid, 57

shallots, “aioli” from, 297

saliva and salivation: action of enzymes

single malt scotch, 266–68

on Sauvignon Blanc grape, 236–38;

skills in cooking, 7

conveying molecules to taste receptors,

smoking salmon, 306–8

206; function in mastication, 109, 110;

sodium bicarbonate, for softening lentils,

tannins’ effect on, 239;
see also
taste

60

receptors

sodium, causing metabolic changes, 87

Salles, Christian, 206

sodium metabisulfite, 57

salmis de canard
, 188, 189

sotolon in
vin jaune
(yellow wine), 242–44

Index
| 373

soufflage, 62, 63

coffee, 76–77; as glass, 231; optimizing

souffléed potatoes, 62–64

concentration for syrups, 218–20; in

soufflés: broiling top before baking, 40;

smoking fish, 307;
see also
sweetness

cooking in vacuum-expanded state,

sulfites: prevent darkening of fruits or veg-

281; heating from below, 17, 33; ques-

etables, 57–58; in wines, 57–58, 248, 249

tion of expansion, 38–40

sulfoquinones, 57

sourdough, 134

sulfur dioxide, 57, 248

sous vide
cooking.
See
low-temperature

surface energy, of champagne glass, 261

cooking

surimis, 42

soy sauce, in marinades, 54

suspensions: as dispersed systems, 143; as

Spanish hams, 155–57

emulsions, 292

sparkling wine.
See
champagne

sweetness: altered by salt, 94–96; species-

spätzle, 35

specific sensitivity to, 83–84;
see also

spiciness (hot): acclimatization to, 104–5;

sugar

reasons for enjoyment of, 103–4

Swift, Jonathan, 11

Spiro, Michael, 272, 273

syringe, for injection of juice into meat, 49

spoilage, preventing, 161–63, 306–8

syrups, optimizing sugar concentrations,

starch: as amylose and amylopectin, 146,

218–20

194; density of, 36; fava bean paste,

288; gelling to paste or purée, 61, 63;

Taillevent (Guillaume Tirel), 73

in liver mousse, 288–90; in pasta, 176;

Talon, Régine, 152, 153, 154

preventing aromas, 143; retrograda-

tannic acid as marinade, 54

tion, 231; for stabilizing emulsions, 45;

tannins: diminishing astringency of wines,

swelling in water, 131;
see also
flour

239–41; effect on saliva, 111; in soil

steak, searing of, ii, 48;
see also
beef

eaten by monkeys, 85; in wine, 54, 111

steaming of meats, 167–68

tartaric acid, 45

steam, in souffléed potatoes, 63–64

tartrate deposits in wine, 245–47

stock: aromatic compounds introduced,

taste receptors: activation by calcium ions,

284; clarifying, filtering, 26–28,

101; advantage of weak bonds, 92, 97;

279–80; early experiments with, 4;

brain’s processing of information from,

making, 23–25; question of salting be-

88–90; and digestion, 86; elusiveness,

fore cooking, 72; question of starting in

97; excitement of neurons in, 91; four

cold water, 11; reabsorption by cooked

classically recognized tastes, 86–87, 88;

meat, 25

innervation by cranial nerves, 107–8;

Strecker degradations of amino acids, 156

lateralization of taste perception, 90;

Streptococcus thermophilus
, 209

molecules changed by saliva, 206; pair-

sucrose, 228, 229

ing with G-proteins, 92, 98; receptor

sucrose octaacetate, 101

proteins in, 84, 88; saliva, 206; salt

sugar: caramel, 227–29, 283; for cooling

stimulating, 94; similarity to receptor

374 | inde x

cells in eye, 92; teleolfaction and tele-

terpenic glycosides, 331, 332

gustation, 334; and tongue’s thermal

terpenols, 331, 332

variations, 106–8; vr1 channel, 104,

terroirs
: affecting flavor of cheeses, 203–5;

105;
see also
aromas; aromatic com-

of scotch whiskey, 266–68; uniqueness

pounds; odorant molecules; olfaction;

and protected designation of origin,

saliva and salivation

203–5, 233; of winegrowing regions of

tasting: Curnonsky’s aphorism on, 237,

Alsace, 233–35

282; liver mousse, 289; as subjec-

Tessié, Justin, 149, 150, 151

tive activity, 200; tests of goat cheese,

texture: attempts to classify, 201–2; of

206–8; tests of single-malt scotches,

cheeses, 201–2; of foie gras, 159–60;

266–67

granularity, 289; relationship to flavor

taxifoliol, 240

and aroma, 142, 289, 290; relation-

Taylor, Andrew, 115, 116

ship to mastication, 112; of stored

tea: cooling before drinking, 77–78;

mushrooms, 183–84; studies of beef,

plaques on surface of, 272–74

112–13

teaspoons: for cooling coffee, 77; “tea-

thaumatin, 84

spoon effect” and pressure in cham-

thermal tastes, 106–8

pagne bottles, 74–75

thermogenesis, 87

technology of cooking: distinguished from

thermometers, 31

science, 2, 3; thermometers, 31

Thibault, Jean-François, 221, 223

teleolfaction and telegustation, 334

thiols, 249–50

temperature considerations: behavior of

This, Hervé, ix, xi

polymers, 230; of boiled eggs, 31; boil-

Thompson, Benjamin (Count Rumford), 4

ing points of liquids, 10; bread and

Tilley, Katherine, 132

cracker storage, 230–32; heat capacity,

tin pans, 66–67

10; low-temperature cooking, 168; tem-

Tirel, Guillaume (Taillevent), 73

pering of chocolate, 224–26; thermom-

Tomas, Anne, 209

eters, 31; for whipping Chantilly cream,

tomato consommé, 280

319; wines and champagnes, 254–56;

Tominaga, Takatoshi, 248, 249

see also
cold storage

tongue: effect of thermal variations,

tempering of chocolate, 224–26

106–8; parts non-specific to particular

tenderizing meat: by marinating, 53–55; by

tastes, 102; parts specific to particular

proper aging, 173–75

temperatures, 107; receptor proteins in

tenderness of beef: effects of aging, cold

papillary cells of, 84, 88;
see also
taste

storage, and cooking temperature, 113,

receptors

114; perceived as juiciness, 112–14

transamination, 317

tenderness of cooked eggs, 31

transducins, 92, 93

tensioactive molecules, 143, 210–11, 258,

Tribaut-Sohier, Isabelle, 74, 263

259, 294, 320

triglycerides, 171, 172, 225, 286

Index
| 375

Trochon, Éric, 52

Viard, A., 4–5

trout: Brillat-Savarin on frying in olive

Viarouge, Claire, 86

oil, 9; optimization of gel formation,

vinaigrettes, 144–45

43; proteins in muscle tissue, 41–42;

vin de fleur
or
vin de voile
, 242

studies of causes of variable quality,

vin de paille
, 243

164–66

vinegar: adding to pasta cooking water,

truffles, 185–87

178; drinkability with addition of sugar,

Tuber melanosporum
(black truffles),

140; as ingredient of marinades for

185–86

meat, 54, 55; preserving eggs in, 304–5

tuberous chervil, 179, 180

vin jaune
(yellow wine), 242–44

turkey, 329

violets, aroma of, 283

tyrosine, 132

Visser, S., 317

vitamin C (ascorbic acid), 56, 133, 161

Ueda, Ryuzo, 53, 54

vitamin E, 161

umami: identification of receptor for, 97–

volatile compounds.
See
odorant molecules

99; from onions and tomatoes, 283;

vr1 protein, 104, 105

so-called fifth taste, x–xi, 86–87

utensils.
See
kitchen equipment

Wack, Anne-Lucie, 307

wakame, 198

vacuum packing: of fruits and vegetables,

Wal, Jean-Michel, 121, 122

57; and low-temperature cooking, 168

water: boiling point of, 10; distilled, for

vacuum pumps, 280–81

filmless tea, 273; in emulsions, 292;

Valade, Michel, 74, 263

evaporation during cooking, 33; hard-

Vallet, Jean-Luc, 307

ness of, 60; needed for foaming of

vanilla, 163

sabayon (
zabaglione
), 215–17; polluted,

vanillin, 163

pectins as detergent for cleansing, 222;

Varoquaux, Françoise, 60

quantity “gelatinized” by one egg, 302;

Varoquaux, Patrick, 60, 191

reabsorption by cooked meat left in, 25;

vats or barrels for wine aging, 270, 271

with sodium bicarbonate for softening

vegetables: algae, 197–99; Brussels

lentils, 60; vaporization during baking

sprouts, 198; cooked in salted water,

of soufflés, 38, 39, 40

73; hybrids, 181; introduction of novel

waterjet/vacuum pumps, 280–81

varieties, 179–81; preferred by children,

Weisfred, Eduardo, 28

119–20; preventing discoloration in,

Westermann, Antoine, 280

56–58; sea hair, 198; sea lettuce, 198;

wheat flour: hard-grain, 177; understand-

wakame, 198;
see also
potatoes

ing behavior of, 131–33

Ventanas, Jesús, 155, 156

whisk, 6

Vercauteren, Joseph, 239–41

whiskey, 266–68

Viallon, Christine, 153

wine: as aid to mastication, 111; Alsatian, 7;

376 | inde x

chilling or bringing up to room tem-

252; length of time in mouth, 237–38;

perature, 254–56; effects of sulfur in,

role of enzymes in saliva, 236–38;

248–50; in fondue, 44–46; in mari-

Sauvignon Blanc, 236–38

nade, 53, 54; in reductions, 284; soto-

Wong, Gwendolyn, 91

lon in
vin jaune
(yellow wine), 242–44;

storing bottles lying down, 263–65;

xanthan, 144

sulfited, 57–58, 248, 249; tannins di-

minishing astringency of, 239–41;
see

yeast: fermentation of, 134–36; keto acid,

also
champagne

244; producing carbon dioxide bubbles,

wine glasses, 251–53, 260–62

131; and sulfur compounds, 249; in

wine making: filtration, 258; improving

winemaking, 237, 242

with glucose, 283; intensifying grape

yellow wine (vin jaune), 242–44

flavor with enzymes, 331–33; noble rot,

yogurt, 7, 12, 153, 209–11

243; stabilizing and preventing tartrate

Yvon, Mireille, 316, 317

deposits, 245–47;
terroirs
of Alsace,

233–35; vats versus barrels, 270

zabaglione
(sabayons), 215–17

wine tasting: intervals of sips and sniffs,

zucchini, “aioli” from, 298

Index
| 377

Molecular Gastronomy

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