Molecular Gastronomy: Exploring the Science of Flavor (55 page)

11, 12, 18, 284

colloids, 258

Chevreul, Michel-Eugène, 5, 62, 71

Colombié, Auguste, 62–63

chewing.
See
mastication

color: browning of meat, 47–48; of pasta,

chicken, seasoning meat before cooking, 51

177; potatoes turning brown after cut-

children, eating habits of, 118–20

ting, 191, 192; of trout, 165, 166

chimpanzees, 85

compartmentalization of foods, 190

Chinese truffles, 186–87

conching, 224

chinois (or China cap), 279

consommé, tomato, 280

chocolate: Chantilly cream, 319–21; intro-

Conticini, Christian, 68

duced in pastry, 322–24; preventing

cookbooks, 11

white film on, 224–26

cooking, 2, 3–4, 5, 7, 10–11; as application

chocolate bavarois (Bavarian cream), 324

of heat, 309

“chocolate dispersion” dessert, 326–27

cooking times, for meat, 167–69

chromatography, gaseous phase.
See
gas

copper, blocking aromatic action of thiols,

chromatography

249–50

citric acid: adding to wine for fondue, 46;

copper utensils: for cooling jam, 223; for

in very dry wines, 45

preserving fruit, 65; for whipping egg

Clément, Didier, 330

whites, 6;
see also
kitchen equipment

climate for winegrowing, 234

corks in champagne bottles, 74, 75; in

Clostridium botulinum
, 183

wine bottles, 263–65

cocktail crackers, 188

Coulon, Jean-Baptiste, 203

cocoa butter, 224

counterions, 150–51

coffee: cooling before sipping, 76–78; salt-

Courthaudon, Jean-Louis, 209

ing to remove bitterness of caffeine, 95

crackers: “extruded”, 188; retaining fresh-

coffee grounds, for experiment with par-

ness, 230–32

ticulates in suspension, 26–28

cream, as emulsion, 319–20

cold chains, 183

crème anglaise: made with chocolate, 324;

cold storage, of: bread (freezing), 231–32;

preventing curdling, 68–70

champagne, 254–55; chocolate, 226;

crème patissière, 68–70, 324

goose livers, 158–59; meat, 113, 114;

crust, penetration of, by oil and vapors,

mushrooms, 183; smoked fish, 306,

10, 193

307; Spanish hams, 155–56

Cruz, Ernesto, 107

collagen in fish, 165

Culioli, Joseph, 112, 314

364 | inde x

cups, for coffee, considerations for cool-

dough made with chocolate, 323–24

ing, 77

Douillard, Roger, 149, 150, 151

curdling, preventing in crème anglais,

Dransfield, Eric, 112

68–70

Dubois, Pierre, 242

Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Sailland),

Dubourdieu, Denis, 236, 237, 248

237, 282

duck (
salmis de canard
), 188, 189

custards.
See
crème anglaise; quiche

dulse seaweed, 198

cyclodextrins, 58

dumplings, 35

cycloheximide, 101

Duteurtre, Bruno, 258

cysteine, 58, 132, 171, 237

eating, reasons for and pleasures in, 12

Daoud, Mohamed, 150

échaudés, when finished cooking, 35–37

Darriet, Philippe, 236, 237, 248

efficiency, eliminating old wives’ tales, 12

Davidou, Sylvie, 231

eggs: differing densities of yolk and white,

Defaye, Jacques, 227, 229

29–30, 137; dissolving shell in vinegar,

degrees (temperature), possible confusion

137; preserving, 303–5; property of ex-

of, 219

pansion, 32–33;
see also
soufflés

dehydrogenase glutamate, 318

eggs, hard-boiled: centering yolks in,

denatonium benzoate, 101

29–30; cooking time, 30–31; piercing

depletion–flocculation, 213–14

shell to prevent cracking, 72; in salted

desserts: Chantilly chocolate, 319–21;

water, 72

“chocolate dispersion”, 326–27; choco-

egg white: albumen in, 328; avoiding yolk

late pastry, 322–24; puff pastries, 33,

when beating into foam, 272; beaten

322–23; sabayons (
zabaglione
), 215–17;

stiff for soufflés, 39; cepe mushroom-

see also
meringues; mousse

scented, 293; for clarifying stocks,

detergent, effect on champagne fizz, 262

279–80; coagulation by vinegar, 304;

diet: of cows, affecting flavor of cheeses,

differing densities of yolk and white,

203–5; of fish, effect on flavor of flesh,

29–30, 137; for foam, subsitituting

166; of Iberian pigs, effect on flavor of

gelatin and water, 151; hardening

flesh, 155, 156

in boiling water, 10; meringues, 12,

digestion, and taste receptors, 86

280–81, 301; as protein and water, 31;

dioscin, 85

yolkless mayonnaise, 295–96, 301, 325;

discoloration of fruits and vegetables,

see also
foams

56–58

egg yolk: in center of hard-boiled egg,

disulfide bridges, 132

29–31; coagulation of, in successful

dityrosine, 132–33

crème anglais, 69–70; differing densi-

DNA, receptor of capsaicin (vr1), 104

ties of yolk and white, 29–30, 137; hav-

dormancy period of vegetable species, 180

ing complex structure, 16; mayonnaise

double-cooking methods, 310–11

from, 295, 300; in sabayon (
zabaglio-

Doublier, Jean-Louis, 194, 195, 212, 213

ne
), 215–17; structure of, 136–38

Index
| 365

elastin, 133

extrusion cooking: compression technol-

electrodialysis, 245, 246

ogy, 188; recovering pectin from fruit

emulsions: aioli as, 297; cream as, 319–20;

pulp, 221–23

creating foam from, 320; as dispersed

systems, 143; fat essential in, 292; fon-

Farmer, Linda, 171

due as, 44; layers of tensioactive mol-

fats.
See
lipids

ecules, 143, 210–11, 258, 259, 294, 320;

fatty acids, preventing oxidation of, 161–63

mayonnaise as, 17, 138–39, 294–95;

Fauconneau, Benoît, 41, 164, 165

milk as, 45, 209; odorant molecules’

Faurion, Annick, 89, 98

release, 190; sauces as, 17

fava beans, 288

enfleurage, 292

Feillet, Pierre, 177

Engel, Erwan, 206

fermentation of yeast, 134–36

Engels, W., 317

Fermigier, Marc, 28

environment, for food production.
See

fibers: algal, 197–99; recovering from

terroirs

commercial production operations,

enzymes: dehydrogenase glutamate, 318;

221–23

inhibitors to prevent darkening of

films: clear, on surface of tea, 272–74; pro-

fruits or vegetables, 57; for intensifying

tein, 149–50;
see also
plastic film

grape flavor, 331–33; present or added

fines herbes, 190

for cheesemaking, 45;
see also
polyphe-

firmness in quenelles, 42, 43

nols

Fischer, Emil, 5

Escoffier, August, 48

Fischer, Ulrich, 251

Escudier, Jean-Louis, 245

fish: collagen in, 165; lipids in, 164–65,

esterification, 222

166; smoking salmon, 306–8

esters: in bread dough, 136; molecular

flan, 301–2

transfer of, between water and oil, 141;

flavonols, 240

in wines, red and white, 252

flavor: as all-encompassing and difficult to

ethanol: as alcohol found in liquor, 10;

describe, 90; as integrated experience,

considerations of temperature, 10; as

106–7; means of incorporating into

marinade, 54; tests of odorant mol-

food, 282–84; “natural” versus “labora-

ecules, 116;
see also
alcohol

tory-engineered”, 282–83; odorants as

ethylbutyrate, 116

components of, 115; physiology of, 16;

Étiévant, Patrick, 242, 290

see also
aromas; aromatic compounds;

Eubacterium limosum
, 237

odorant molecules; olfaction; taste re-

Even, Patrick, 86

ceptors; tasting

expansion: of bread dough through yeast,

flour: as amylose and amylopectin starch

131; eggs’ property of, 32–33; osmotic,

granules, 146–47; in crème anglaise,

305; of quiche, 32–34; of soufflés,

68–70; in fondue, 45; preventing re-

38–40, 281

lease of aromas from odorant mol-

366 | inde x

ecules, 143; starch granules in, 38, 45;

of hard sausage, 152–53; molecular ex-

for thickening sauces, 196;
see also

tracts, 243; molecules of wine, 252

starch

gastronomy, definition of, xi, 1–2

foam, of champagne, 257–59, 263

gastrotechnology, 6

foams: as dispersed systems, 143; from

gelatin: as enzyme inhibitor, 57; as substi-

emulsions, 320; examples of, 272; of

tute for egg in mayonnaise, 295–96,

gelatin and water, 151; lipstick’s anti-

326; usefulness in sauces, 189; and

foaming effect, 262, 272; release by

water as foam, 151

chewing, 190; sabayons (
zabaglione
),

gelatinization process: avoiding strings

215–17; stability of, 149–51, 301; stiff

and lumps, 147–48; microscopic view

egg whites, 39;
see also
mousse

of, 326; parameters for, 42–43; pectin

foie gras: cooking livers for, 158–60;

in, 221, 222

whisked into creamy texture, 329

Gélis, M. A., 228

fondue, preparation and cooking, 44–46

gels: flan as, 302; gellification process

Fontanet, Isabelle, 231

and lemon juice, 66; as lattice, 33; of

food allergies, 121–23

myosin, 314–15; release by odorant

food science, 3

molecules by chewing, 190

free radicals, 161, 162

genetically modified organisms, concerns

freezing bread, 231–232;
see also
cold stor-

of allergens, 122, 123

age

Gennes, Pierre-Gilles de, 68, 150

French bread’s flavor and crustiness, 134;

Gerhardt, Charles, 228

see also
bread

glasses for wine, 251–53, 260–62

French fries, 191–93, 291

gliadins, 132

freshness of ingredients: preventing dis-

Glories, Yves, 239

coloration of fruits and vegetables, 56–

glucagon, 86

58; for country versus city dwellers, 6

glutamate, 86–87, 97–99

fruits: preserves, pans for preparing, 65–

gluten, 131, 177

67; preventing discoloration in, 56–58

glutenins, 132

frying: Brillat-Savarin on theory of, 7–9;

glycogen, 173

souffléed potatoes, 62–64

glycosidases, 236–37

funnel, separating, 293

glycosylation, 240

gnocchi, 35–37

Gabrielle, E. H., 48

goat cheese, 206–8

gamma-45 gliadin protein, 177

goose livers, for foie gras, 158–60

Gandemer, Gilles, 171

Gouffé, Jules, 24

Gannon, Kimberley, 91

Goutefongea, René, 288

Garcia Fernandez, José Manuel, 227, 229

G-proteins, 92, 98

Garnier, Catherine, 212, 213

Graneboeuf, Delphine, 187

gas chromatography: aromatic molecules

granularity of texture, 289

Index
| 367

grapevines, 233

Jackson, Michael, 266

gravimetric method, 198

Jaganyl, Deogratius, 273

Green, Barry, 107, 108

jam.
See
preserves and jam

Gruyère, 204

Janex-Favre, Marie-Claude, 186

Guégen, Jacques, 132

juiciness, juices in meat, 10, 47–49,

Guichard, Élisabeth, 144, 243

112–14

gustducin, 91, 92, 93

Julius, David, 103, 104

Guy, Gérard, 158

jumbles (
pains à l
’
anise
), 33

Hamine eggs, 30–31

kappa-casein, 45, 122

ham, Spanish, 155–57

Keller, Gérard, 224, 225

handedness, relationship to perception of

Kellogg, John Harvey, 109

taste, 90

keto acid, 244, 317

hard-boiled eggs.
See
eggs, hard-boiled

ketoglutarate, 317–18

hard-grain wheat, 177

ketones: in bread dough, 136; methyl, in

hard sausage, 152–54

sausage, 153; molecular transfer of, be-

hard water, 60

tween water and oil, 141

Hawking, Stephen, 76

kitchen equipment: chinois (or China

health effects, adverse, from: allergies to

cap), 279; copper utensils, 6, 65, 223;

foods, 121–23; bacteria on mushrooms,

filtration and vacuum/waterjet pump

183; failure to sterilize preserves of

devices, 280; glass containers for cool-

fruit, 219; insufficient dietary fiber,

ing jam, 223; glasses for wine and

197, 198; listeriosis, 124–26; low-

champagne, 251–53, 260–62; pots and

temperature cooking of meat, 169;

pans for preparing preserves, 65–67;

pathogens in hard sausage, 152; sul-

separating funnel, 293; syringe, 49;

fited wines, 57–58, 248, 249

thermometers, 31; tin pans, 66–67;

hexanol, 136

wooden shelves for glassware storage,

Himalayan truffles, 186–87

262

Hladik, Claude Marcel, 83

Knockaert, Camille, 307

hollandaise sauce, 17