Omelette and a Glass of Wine (50 page)

authenticity,
158
–
60
,
189
–
90
,
209
,
217

of Boulestin,
174

English disregard for,
11
,
25
–
7
,
39
–
40
,
158

French disregard for,
158

Avignon,
51
–
2
,
79
–
80

Azzalin, Ugo:
Di Alcune Minestre Venete
,
108n
.

Babinski, Henri,
175

Baillie, Lady Grisell:
Household Book of
, 1692–1733,
236
–
7

Barattero, Mme Rose,
53
–
63

Barnett, Isobel,
47

basil,
33

Beaujolais,
42
,
101

Beaumes de Venise,
83
–
5

Bedford, Sybille,
126

beef

grillade des mariniers du Rhône
,
252
,
273

roast, stewed,
153

salt,
222

spiced,
288
–
90

stews,
153
,
252
,
273

Beerbohm, Max,
162
,
229

Beeton, Isabella,
10n
.,
300
–
303
,
303
–
9

Beeton’s Penny Cookery Book
,
305

Book of Household Management
,
26
–
7
,
300
–
309

Mrs Beeton’s Every Day Cookery and Housekeeping Book
,
305

Beeton, Sir Mayson,
308

Beeton, Sam,
300
,
304
,
308

The Englishwoman’s Domestic Magazine
,
300
,
304

beetroot, Dr de Pomiane’s suggestions,
178
,
180
,
182

Benton, Peggie,
181

Berenson, Bernard,
117

Bernard, Mme,
66

Best of Boulestin, The
,
167
,
171
–
2

Big Ben,
293

Bini, Giorgio:
Catalogue of the Names of Mediterranean Fish
,
141

Bird’s custard,
229
–
30

Bishop, Frederick:
The Wife’s Own Book of Cookery
,
245

black fruit fool (’black tart stuff)
,
242
–
4

blackberry fool,
239

Blencowe, Anne:
Receipt Book
,
201

blettes
(chard),
58
,
77
,
268

à la crème
,
273
–
4

bogue (
boops boops
),
141

Boni, Ada

La Cucina Romana
,
108
,
110
–
11

Il Talismano della Felicita
,
111

book reviews,
134
–
47
,
150
–
51

Borrow, George:
Wild Wales
,
219

Boulestin, X. Marcel,
162
–
74
,
213

authenticity of,
174

The Best of
,
167
,
172
–
3

The Conduct of the Kitchen
,
165
–
6
,
169

Ease and Endurance (A Londres Naguère)
,
172
–
3

Eggs
165

Evening Standard Book of Menus
,
166

The Finer Cooking
,
171

Les Fréquentations de Maurice
,
164

Having Crossed the Channel
,
165
,
170

Herbs, Salads and Seasonings
,
165

menus and recipes,
167
–
74

Myself, My Two Countries
,
172
,
174

Potatoes
,
165

restaurant,
165
,
166
–
7
,
171
–
2
,
174

Savouries and Hors d’Œuvre
,
165

A Second Helping
,
164
–
5

Simple French Cooking for English Homes
,
164

What Shall We Have Today?
,
165

Bozzi, O.P.:
Vecchia Brianza in Cucina
,
112

brandy,
187
,
188
–
9

Brazier, La Mère,
61
–
2
,
70
–
72

bread

in England,
74
,
76
,
136
–
7
,
219
,
248

in France,
74
,
76
,
78
,
203

breadcrumbs,
37
–
9

breadmaking,
136
–
7

breakfasts,
91
,
219

bream,
142

Briand, Aristide,
172

Brianza,
108
,
112

Brien, Alan,
10

brill,
141
,
191

Brillat-Savarin, J. A. de,
157
,
178

Brisse, Baron,
192

Britain,
see
England
;
Scottish food
;
Welsh food

Brown, Helen Evans:
West Coast Cook Book
(review),
137
–
9

bruscandolilbrucelandi
(hop shoots),
106
–
13

Bryson, Bill:
Penguin Dictionary of Troublesome Words
,
14n
.

Buckland, Anne:
Our Viands
,
211

Burgundy, white,
16
,
52

Bute, John, 4th Marquis of:
Moorish Recipes
(review),
143

butter, clarified,
218
,
220
–
21

butter in France,
262

butters,
168
–
9
,
227
–
8

Cairo,
23

Calvados,
189

Camargue,
267
–
70

Cameron, Ida,
26

canned/packaged food,
22
,
27
–
9
,
40
–
41
,
212
,
214
,
275
–
9

Cantal cheese,
272

capers,
260

Capri,
123
–
4
,
129
–
30

Carrier, Robert,
36

Carter, Ernestine,
10
,
15

Catalonia,
91
–
3

cauliflower cheese, ‘perfected’,
41

Cavaillon market,
225
–
7

Cecil, David:
Max, A Biography
,
229

Cecil Hotel,
174
,
192
,
197

cenci
,
117

Chablis,
101

char,
225

charcuterie
,
61
,
264
–
5

chard (
blettes
),
58
,
77
,
268
,
273
–
4

Chardin, Jean-Baptiste,
267

Charvillat, M.,
64

Chase, Joanna,
16

cheeses

British,
160
–
62
,
298
–
9

and Guinness fondue,
160

Welsh toasted,
298
–
9

cream/milk,
203
–
7

cottage,
205

cream,
205

cream cheese croûtons,
207

ewes’ milk,
77
,
298
–
9

fresh milk,
205
–
7

frontage normand
,
253

junket rennet,
206

Osborne,
205

French,
70
,
77
,
156
–
8
,
160
–
61
,
261
–
2
,
271
–
3

fondue de Franche-Comté
,
157
–
8

omelette Molière
,
52

Welsh rabbit, French-style,
161

German,
158
–
9

green,
204
–
5

Gruyère

‘ creamy threads of’,
118
,
158
,
161

sauce for
riso ricco
,
117
–
18

tranches au frontage
,
180

Italian,
118
,
206
,
281

fonduta
,
14
,
157
,
281
,
283

Swiss,
157

wines with,
52

chefs

new-style,
13
,
113
,
181
–
5

old-style,
17
–
18
,
176
,
179
–
80
,
182
–
3
,
249
–
50

chestnuts,
292

chicken

livers

crostini
,
116
–
17

potted,
222
–
3

with spaghetti,
115
–
16

potted with ham,
222
–
3

poularde de Bresse
,
59
–
60
,
71

poularde en vessie
,
59
–
60

poulet rôti
,
62

chick pea salad,
259

Child, Julia:
Mastering the Art of French Cooking
,
169

chocolate,
66

choucroûte,
184
,
263

Christmas,
102

hampers,
284
–
6

recipes,
288
–
93

Christopher’s,
286

Cidonio, Bernardo,
280

Cipriani’s, Torcello,
106
–
7

clams

Coos Bay Clam Cakes,
138

tinned,
29

clarified butters and fats,
218
,
220
–
21

Clark, Lady, of Tillypronie:
Cookery Book of
,
205

Claverton Manor,
159