Omelette and a Glass of Wine (51 page)

cocktail party food,
207
,
220

cod’s roe paste, smoked,
228

Cognac,
187
,
188
–
90

Colette,
162

Colin, Joseph,
275
,
278

Collingwood, Francis, and John Woollams:
The Universal Cook
,
240
–
41

Compleat Imbiber
,
9
,
14
,
66
,
187
–
92
,
280
–
83

Connolly, Cyril,
15

Connolly, Major Matthew,
216
–
19

conserva di peperoni
,
114
–
15

Cordon Bleu School,
34
,
88

Cornas,
82

Cornish fairings,
30

Côte Rôtie,
82

cottage cheese,
205

coulis de tomates à la moutarde
,
260

Courchamps, Comte de,
192

courgette and rice,
gratin
of,
47
–
8

crabs

cooking of,
32
–
3

digestibility of,
226

potted,
226

cream cheese,
see
cheese

creams,
237
,
238
,
242
,
290

crème brûlée
,
239

crème vichyssoise
,
40

Croft-Cooke, Rupert:
Exotic Food
,
109

crostini
,
116
–
17

croûtons

cream cheese,
207

à la marinière
,
87

Croze, Count Austin de,
250
–
51

Cuisine et la Pâtisserie Bourgeoises, La
,
109
–
10

Cumberland sauce,
154
Curnonsky (Maurice-Edmond Saillon),
250
–
51

custard,
229
–
30

David, Elizabeth

booklets,
229
,
246
–
7

English Bread and Yeast Cookery
,
246
,
299

French Country Cooking
,
91
,
93

French Provincial Cooking
,
9
,
15
,
17
,
55
,
62
,
66
,
70
,
182

Italian Food
,
32
,
214

Mediterranean Food
,
21
–
2

Spices, Salt and Aromatics in the English kitchen
,
212
–
13
,
246

Summer Cooking
,
135

Davidson, Alan,
15
,
278
–
9

Seafish of Tunisia and the Central Mediterranean (Mediterranean Seafood)
,
10
,
140
–
42

What is a Sardine
,
278
–
9

dentice
,
141

Diat, Louis,
40

Digby, Sir Kenelm,
232

The Closet… Opened
,
162
,
231
,
232
,
235
,
294

Dix Livres de Cuisine d’Apicius
,
183

Dods, Meg (Mrs C.I. Johnstone):

The Cook’s and Housewife’s Manual
,
219
,
220
,
226
,
234
–
5

Dominic, Peter:
Wine Mine
,
9

Dorset Dishes of the 17th Century
,
242

Dorset Dishes of the 18th Century
,
234

‘double’ (boiler),
294
–
6

Douglas, Norman 13,
120
–
33
,
139
–
40

Alone
,
123
,
128

Birds and Beasts of the Greek Anthology
,
133

Late Harvest
,
123
,
129

Old Calabria
,
120
,
123

Siren Land
,
123
,
129

South Wind
,
123

Together
,
123
,
133

Venus in the Kitchen
,
124
–
8
,
132

dried fruit,
242
–
4

Drummond, J.C., and Ann Wilbraham:

The Englishman’s Food
(review),
134
–
5

duck, Welsh salt,
294
,
296
–
7

ducklings, frozen,
297

Duclair,
261

Dumas, Alexandre,
192

Dupin, Pierre:
Les Secrets de la Cuisine Comtoise
,
157
–
8

Durrell, Lawrence,
78

Eales, Mary:
Receipts
,
240n
.

editors,
9
–
10
,
15
–
17
,
36
,
53
,
167

Edwardian menus,
194
–
7

eggs

œufs à la neige
,
80

pipérade
,
170

with potted pastes,
220

scrambled, with smoked haddock,
169

and wine,
51

See also
omelettes

Egypt,
23
–
4

Elizabeth David Ltd,
15
,
246

Encyclopedia of Practical Cookery
,
212

endive, Belgian,
181

England, food in

adaptations of French dishes,
251
–
3

appropriation and debasement of recipes,
11
,
25
–
7
,
39
–
40
,
58
,
92
,
155

attitudes compared with French,
47
–
9
,
91
,
208
–
10
,
263
–
7

dislike of olive oil,
26
–
7

hotels and restaurants,
24
,
41
–
4
,
148
–
9

poor quality of bread,
74
,
76
,
136
,
219
,
248

poor quality of potatoes and tomatoes,
47
,
77
,
208
–
9

‘traditional’ food,
287
–
8

epergnes,
237

Epulario
(Maestro Martino),
248

Escoffier, George Auguste,
154
,
179
,
195
–
6
,
212
,
250
,
287

and the canned tomato industry,
214
–
16

everlasting syllabub,
231
,
235

ewes’ milk cheese,
77
,
298
–
9

Family Magazine, The
(1741),
242

Farley, John:
The London Art of Cookery
,
221

fennel,
103
–
4
,
191

with Parmesan,
104
–
5

seeds,
127

Fieldhouse, Harry,
17

Fields, Gracie,
124

‘first’ or ‘firstly’,
14

fish

anchovies,
99
–
100
,
128
,
168

anisette liqueur with,
190
–
92

haddock, Arbroath smoked,
217
–
18

of the Mediterranean,
13
9
–
42

Norman Douglas on,
123
,
128
–
9

fish,
cont’d

mullet, red,
133

paste,
216
–
17
,
225
–
8

potted,
225
–
8

sardines,
168
–
9
,
227
,
275
–
9

shad with sorrel,
64
–
5

sole

meunière
,
58

normande
’,
250
–
51

See also
shellfish

Flanagan’s, Baker Street,
155

flour for breadmaking,
136
–
7

fondues, see
cheese

fonduta
,
14
,
157
,
281
,
283

Fontina cheese,
118
,
281

fools, fruit,
237
–
45
,
246

Fowler, H.W.,
14n
.

Frampton, Judith,
232
–
4

France, food in

bread,
74
,
76
,
78
,
203

butter,
262

cheeses,
70
,
77
,
156
–
8
,
160
–
61
,
261
–
2
,
271
–
3

classic cookery,
176
,
179
,
182
–
3
,
249
–
50

deterioration of restaurant cooking,
51
,
66
–
70
,
79
–
80
,
149
,
178

French attitudes,
47
–
9
,
66
,
263
–
7

French notions of English food,
62
,
153
–
6
,
241

genius for presentation,
266

markets of,
72
–
3
,
76
–
8
,
255
–
74

regional cookery,
250
–
52

regional specialities in Paris,
89
–
90

wines,
52
,
58
,
64
–
5
,
71
,
79
,
82
,
84
,
271

See also
restaurants

Franche-Comté cheese and
fondue
,
77
,
157
–
8
,
161
Freeman, Mrs Bobby:
First Catch Your Peacock
,
299

frittata con i loertis
,
112

fromage normand
,
253

fruit creams/fools,
237
–
45
,
246

fruit, tampering with,
179

frying,
51
,
220

funghi
,
280
–
81