Pasta Modern (31 page)

9 |
CONCHIGLIE AL NERO DI SEPPIA
(small shells)
:
flavored with squid ink.

10 |
CONCHIGLIONI
(large shells)
:
a specialty of Campania, also called
chiocciolioni
.

11 |
CORZETTI, CORXETTI,
or
CROXETTI:
specialty of Liguria, made by pressing fresh dough between two embossed stamps, leaving lots of grooved surface to absorb sauces.

12 |
DITALI
or
DITALINI
(little thimbles)
:
small tube pasta often used in soups.

13 |
ELICOIDALI
(helicoidal)
:
like rigatoni, but the ribbing is more spiraled.

14 |
FOLGIE D’ULIVO
(olive leaves)
:
their rough texture is wonderful for absorbing sauces.

15 |
FREGOLA:
a specialty of Sardinia that looks like couscous, and is made with coarsely ground semolina grains instead of flour. The word probably comes from
fregare
(to rub or grate).

16 |
FUSILLONI:
a spiral of pasta. Also called
fusilli
or
spirali
, depending on length and thickness.

17 |
GARGANELLI:
a homemade pasta specialty of Emilia-Romagna, le Marche, and Umbria made by rolling the dough around a wooden rod, then pressing it against a special stringed device (called a
pettine
, “comb”) that leaves its characteristic lines.

18 |
GRAMIGNA
(weeds)
:
a curly pasta with a hole through the middle.

19 |
LORIGHITTAS
(rings)
:
a handmade specialty of Sardinia.

20a |
LUMACHE
(snails) and
20b |
LUMACONI
(large snails)
:
absolute must-tries. You’ll love how the sauce sneaks into the hollows.

21 |
MACCHERONI CON CINQUE BUCHI
(pasta with five holes)
:
a specialty of Sicily served especially during Carnevale with meat ragù. You’ll find it freshly made in Sicily with seven or even eight holes.

22 |
MALLOREDDUS
or
GNOCHETTI SARDI:
a specialty homemade pasta of Sardinia, also found dried.

23 |
MEZZI MANICHE
(half sleeves)
:
short, thick tube pasta. Often served plated upright. Here shown in a whole-wheat version.

24 |
MEZZI RIGATONI
(half rigatoni)
:
comes from the word
rigato
(ridged). A smaller version of rigatoni, a specialty of Campania and southern Italy.

25 |
ORECCHIETTE
(little ears)
:
a specialty of Puglia.

26 |
PACCHERI:
large tube pasta from Naples, one of my personal favorites—a must-try. Similar are
schiaffoni, bombarde
, and
boccolottoni
.

27 |
PANTACCE:
mini bite-sized lasagne shapes.

28 |
PASTA AL FERRETTO
(iron pasta)
:
made on a knitting needle or metal rod. Depending on the region, it can also be named
pasta al ceppo
or
ferricelli
.

29 |
PENNONI
(giant pens)
:
a larger version of penne, fabulously chewy, great with meat and dense sauces.

30 |
QUARDRUCCI
(little squares)
:
In the past, this pasta was made from the odd bits left after fettuccine were cut. Nowadays, they are made on purpose and served in soup.

31 |
RADIATORI
(radiators)
:
sometimes packaged as
fisarmoniche
(accordions); also
armoniche
(accordions).

32 |
RICCIOLI
(curls)

33 |
RIGATONI:
large tube pasta. The name comes from the word
rigato
(ridged).

34 |
RUOTE PAZZE
(crazy wagon wheels)
:
thicker and more irregular shaped than traditional
ruote
. Created in 1938 by Puglia’s famed artisanal pasta company Benedetto Cavalieri, this shape is wonderful at adhering to sauces.

35 |
SPIRALE
(spirals)

36 |
STROZZAPRETI
or
STRANGOLAPRETI
(priest chokers or stranglers)
:
a specialty of the Le Marche and Umbria regions, but popular throughout central and southern Italy.

37 |
TROFIE:
a specialty of Liguria. The name might come from
strafuggià
(rubbing), the movement used to make them.

LONG

38 |
BUCATINI
(pierced)
:
also called
perciatelli
, a thick, long pasta with a hole in the center.

39 |
CANDELE
(candles)
:
over-the-top thick, long pasta, a specialty of Naples. They are broken into pieces and most typically served with
Oniony Neapolitan Meat Sauce
.

40 |
FETTUCCE:
a flat, long pasta, whose name comes from the word
fettuccia
(ribbon).

41 |
FUSILLI LUNGHI:
also called
fusilli napolitani
. Longer and thicker than short fusilli, but not as corkscrewy.

42 |
IANNULATE:
also called
sagne iannulate
. A twirled strand of ¾-inch (2-cm) wide pasta, a specialty of Puglia.

43 |
LASAGNOTTE:
exceptionally long, curly noodles, about 2 inches (5 cm) wide. Festive and fun.

44 |
MACCHERONI ALLA CHITARRA:
also called
spaghetti alla chitarra
, a specialty of Abruzzo. The dough is cut on a stringed instrument called a
chitarra
(guitar), which shapes the pasta into four-sided strands. Commercially available dried. Shown here in a whole-wheat version.

45 |
MACCHERONI DI CAMPOFIGLIONE:
very thin pasta from the le Marche region, made with lots of eggs so it keeps its al dente bite nicely.

46 |
MAFALDE:
broad ribbons rippled on both sides, named after Princess Mafalda. Also called
reginette
(little queens).

47 |
MAFALDINE
or
TRIPLINE:
a thinner version of mafalde, but with only one side rippled.

48 |
PAPPARDELLE:
a wide noodle, whose name comes from the Tuscan dialect verb
pappare
(to devour). Shown here in a whole-wheat version.

49 |
SPAGHETTI
(little strings)
:
Italy’s most popular pasta shape.
49a
is flavored with spinach and called
pasta verde
(green pasta);
49b
is flavored with squid ink and called
spaghetti nero di sepia
.

50a |
SPAGHETTI LUNGHI:
extra long pasta, especially popular during the holidays.
50b |
SPAGHETTONI:
a little thicker than traditional spaghetti. Note how some strands show the curved markings of where they were hung to dry.

51 |
TAGLIATELLE:
a specialty of northern Italy, especially Emilia-Romagna. The name comes from
tagiare
(to cut).

52 |
ZITONE:
the long version of the ubiquitous short ziti. They can be eaten long, but are generally broken, then boiled and served with thick meat sauces.

Sources

A few of my very favorite Italian pasta companies are:

Benedetto Cavalieri

Felicetti

Garofalo

Giuseppe Coco

Rummo Lenta Lavorazione

Rusticella d’Abruzzo

Spinosi

Online sources for pasta and other ingredients:

AMAZON
www.amazon.com

Carries a wide range of Italian pasta and ingredients mentioned in this book, including saffron powder and
gianduia
chocolate.

ANACAPRI MARKET
www.anacaprimarket.com

A good source for hard-to-find pasta shapes like
crozetti, strozzapreti, maccheroncini di campofilone, trofie
, and delicious farro and kamut-flour pasta from Felicetti. Plus, they carry flavored pastas, including squid ink and saffron pasta, as well as a nice assortment of cheese, cured meats, and other specialty products.

BOB’S RED MILL
www.bobsredmill.com

Sells semolina flour and dried fava beans, which can be substituted for fresh fava beans in
Cheesy Ditalini with Fava Beans
or
Apple Ravioli with Fava-Pistachio Pesto
.

CATALINA OFFSHORE PRODUCTS
www.catalinaop.com

A Southern California company that sells very fresh sea urchins for the recipes such as
Pasta with Sea Urchins & Coffee
. They ship overnight anywhere in the USA.

DIPALOSELECTS
www.dipaloselects.com

Nice assortment of Italian pasta, cheese, cured meats, and other specialty items, including delicious
mostarda
for
Everything but the Kitchen Sink Christmas Tortelli
.

IGOURMET.COM
www.igourmet.com

Great selection of artisanal pasta, including black squid ink pasta, fregula, and other artisanal Italian products.

THE INGREDIENT FINDER
www.theingredientfinder.com

Interesting selection of hard-to-find quality imported products, including terrific Italian chocolate like
gianduia
for
Pasta Truffles
.

KING ARTHUR FLOUR
www.kingarthurflour.com

Try their King Arthur Perfect Pasta Blend for any of the fresh-pasta recipes. It is exceptional.

LA FENICE IMPORT EXPORT
www.lafeniceimportexport.com

This California-based company sells incannulate pasta for
Pasta with Artichokes, Prunes & Sage
as well as excellent olive oil and other Italian gourmet items.

LICORICE INTERNATIONAL
www.licoriceinternational.com

Carries quality Italian licorice perfect for
Tagliatelle with Smoked Trout & Licorice
.

MARKET HALL FOODS
www.markethallfoods.com

This California-based company is a wonderful source for many fine Italian products, including Rustichella d’Abruzzo pasta. They also make and ship fresh egg pasta. Great inventory of balsamic vinegar, olive oil, gourmet salt, and bottarga.