Ready for Dessert (36 page)

In a small bowl, whisk together the all-purpose and cake flours, baking powder, and salt. In another small bowl, mix together the milk, 1 teaspoon vanilla, and lemon zest.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter and granulated sugar on medium speed until completely smooth. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Stir in half of the flour mixture, followed by the milk mixture, then stir in the remaining flour mixture and beat until the batter is smooth.

Drop 2 tablespoons (30 ml) batter in mounds spaced 2 inches (5 cm) apart on the prepared baking sheets. Bake, rotating the baking sheets midway through baking, until the cookies feel just set in the centers, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely on the baking sheets.

To make the icings, in a medium bowl, whisk together the 2 cups (225 g) powdered sugar with 2 teaspoons corn syrup, the lemon juice, the 1 teaspoon vanilla, and water until smooth.

Transfer half of the mixture to a small bowl and whisk in the cocoa and remaining 2 teaspoons corn syrup to make the “black” icing. Add up to 2 teaspoons more water, if necessary, to make the icing spreadable; it should not be too thin, so begin by adding 1 teaspoon and add another teaspoon only if needed. Whisk the remaining 2 tablespoons powdered sugar into the white icing. The two icings should have the same consistency: thick, but spreadable. (If the white icing is too thin, add a bit more powdered sugar.)

With a small icing spatula or a butter knife, spread white icing over one half of the flat (bottom) side of each cookie. Spread black icing over the other half. Let the icing set for a few minutes before serving.

STORAGE:
The finished cookies can be stored for up to 2 days in an airtight container, preferably in a single layer so that the icing won’t be marred.

MAKES 30 COOKIES

Shortly after my first book came out, my phone rang one night a little after 10:30
P.M
. A reader had tracked me down to let me know, with urgency, that she loved these cookies, but that they took 10 minutes to bake in her oven instead of the 9 minutes indicated in the recipe.

When in doubt, err on the side of underbaking so your peanut butter cookies remain moist. Take them out when they’re still a bit soft, as they’ll continue to firm up a bit after cooling. This time around, I’ve given a bit more latitude with the timing so as to avoid any late-night baking-related emergency phone calls.

1¼ cups (175 g) all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon baking powder (see Tips)

¼ teaspoon salt

½ cup (4 ounces/115 g) unsalted butter, melted

½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar, plus more for coating the cookies

½ cup (120 g) packed light brown sugar

1 cup (260 g) creamy peanut butter (not natural-style, see Tip)

1 large egg, at room temperature

In a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter, granulated and brown sugars, and the peanut butter on medium speed just until smooth. Beat in the egg. Add the flour mixture and mix just until the dough comes together. If necessary, knead the dough with your hands until smooth.

Cover and refrigerate the dough for at least 2 hours or up to overnight. (The rest gives the ingredients time to meld so the cookies bake up especially softy and chewy.)

Remove the dough from the refrigerator and let it come to room temperature.

Position racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper or silicone baking mats. Pour some granulated sugar into a small bowl.

Pinch off pieces of dough and roll them into 1-inch (3-cm) balls. Roll the balls in the granulated sugar and place them 3 inches (8 cm) apart on the prepared baking sheets. When you’ve filled the baking sheets, flatten and make a crosshatch pattern on each cookie by pressing down on the ball with the back of the tines of a fork.

Bake, rotating the baking sheets midway through baking, until the cookies begin to brown around the edges but the centers still look somewhat uncooked, 9 to 10 minutes. (Remove them from the oven before they look done so they’ll stay chewy once cooled.)

Let the cookies cool on the baking sheets until firm enough to handle, then use a spatula to transfer them to a wire rack.

STORAGE:
These cookies will keep well, stored in an airtight container, for up to 3 days.

MAKES 9 TO 12 BROWNIES

It’s a misconception that the French don’t like American food. Step into any bakery in Paris and you’re likely to see one of two things
:
le gâteau au fromage or les brownies.
Usually the cheesecake is pretty good, but the brownies are too often pale facsimiles. For some reason that I don’t understand, the French never put enough chocolate in their brownies.

In my efforts to promote international understanding, I hand out brownies freely to my Parisian friends in hopes that pretty soon, someone will get the message and ramp up the fudginess of French brownies. (Perhaps it’s because the word “fud-gee” isn’t part of the French vocabulary?)

And because I sometimes can’t help showing off my American audaciousness, I’ll whip up this recipe that combines the best of both the cheesecake and brownie worlds and pass the squares around. They tend to take people by surprise—I think the French need a little more time to get used to such a cra-zee combination.

BROWNIES

6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

4 ounces (115 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

⅔ cup (130 g) sugar

2 large eggs, at room temperature

½ cup (70 g) all-purpose flour

1 tablespoon (8 g) unsweetened natural or Dutch-process cocoa powder

⅛ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

½ cup (80 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate chips

CHEESECAKE TOPPING

8 ounces (225 g) cream cheese, at room temperature

1 large egg yolk

5 tablespoons (75 g) sugar

⅛ teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line the inside of a 9-inch (23-cm) square pan with 2 lengths of foil, positioning the sheets perpendicular to each other and allowing the excess to extend beyond the edges of the pan. Or, use one large sheet of extrawide foil. Lightly grease the foil with butter or nonstick cooking spray.

To make the brownies, in a medium saucepan, melt the butter, then add the chopped bittersweet or semisweet chocolate and stir over low heat until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the ⅔ cup (130 g) sugar followed by the 2 eggs. Mix in the flour, cocoa powder, and salt, then stir in the 1 teaspoon vanilla and the chocolate chips. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and spread evenly.

To make the cheesecake topping, in a medium bowl, beat together the cream cheese, egg yolk, the 5 tablespoons (75 g) sugar, and ⅛ teaspoon vanilla until smooth.

Distribute the cream cheese mixture in 8 dollops across the top of the brownie batter, then, with a butter knife or spatula, swirl the cream cheese mixture very slightly into the batter. Resist the urge to mix and swirl too much, as you’ll just make the brownies muddy—you want big pockets of cheesecake.

Bake until the brownies feel just set in the center, about 35 minutes. Let cool completely in the pan before lifting out the foil to remove the brownies.

STORAGE:
The brownies will keep in an airtight container for 2 days. They can also be frozen, wrapped well, for 1 month. (And in fact, if you cut them and store them individually wrapped, they’re terrific—and convenient— to eat while frozen.
See Tip
for brownie-cutting techniques.)

MAKES 9 TO 12 BROWNIES

I have a blanket mistrust of any recipe with a superlative in the title. “The ultimate” or “the world’s finest” always makes me raise an eyebrow. But how else can I describe these brownines? I’ve made a lot of brownies in my life, and these really are the best. I learned to make them from the late Robert Steinberg, who changed the world of American chocolate when he cofounded Scharffen Berger chocolate. Part of Robert’s unique charm was that he was quick to argue, but I learned that like most people who hold strong opinions (at least food-wise), they’re invariably right when you taste the results. He adapted his recipe from one by cookbook author Maida Heatter.

The first time I made these brownies, they were a dry, crumbly disaster. Still unconvinced that they were worthy of their accolades, I listened carefully as he walked me through the steps. When he asked if I had stirred the batter vigorously for 1 full minute, I stammered and then finally admitted that I cut that step short. “Aha!” he said. So I made them again, and discovered that was one life-changing minute.

6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 g) unsalted or salted butter, cut into pieces

8 ounces (225 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 large eggs, at room temperature

¼ cup (35 g) all-purpose flour

1 cup (about 135 g) walnuts, almonds, hazelnuts, or pecans, toasted and coarsely chopped

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line the inside of a 9-inch (23-cm) square pan with 2 lengths of foil, positioning the sheets perpendicular to each other and allowing the excess to extend beyond the edges of the pan. Or, use one large sheet of extrawide foil or parchment paper. Lightly grease the foil or parchment with butter or nonstick cooking spray.

In a medium saucepan, melt the butter, then add the chocolate and stir over low heat until the chocolate is melted and smooth. Remove from the heat and stir in the sugar and vanilla until combined. Beat in the eggs one at a time. Add the flour and stir energetically for 1 full minute, until the batter loses its graininess, becomes smooth and glossy, and pulls away a bit from the sides of the saucepan. Stir in the chopped nuts.

Scrape the batter into the prepared pan and bake until the center feels almost set, about 30 minutes. Don’t overbake.

Let cool completely in the pan before lifting out the foil or parchment to remove the brownies.

STORAGE:
These brownies will keep well for up to 4 days and can be frozen for 1 month.

VARIATION:
This recipe takes well to mix-ins. I’ll sometimes add ⅓ cup (45 g) chopped dried cherries or ⅓ cup (45 g) cocoa nibs to the batter.

To make
MINTY BROWNIES
, crush the contents of one 50-g tin of peppermint Altoids in a sturdy plastic bag. Add the crushed mints to the brownies along with the nuts (or omit the nuts). If you like
very
minty brownies, add ½ teaspoon mint extract along with the crushed mints.

MAKES ABOUT 48 COOKIES

The Scottish have shortbread and the French have their
sablés
(sandy-textured butter cookies), but both cultures and cookies are so hidebound in tradition that you’ll rarely find variations.

To them I say kick off those highlanders, get your heads out of the
sablé,
and think again. These pecan shortbread cookies are delightfully crisp, with a delicately caramelized flavor thanks to the addition of brown sugar. If you’ve seen a fancy European-style butter or a locally made cultured one and you’ve been wondering what’s a good use for it, these buttery rectangles are just the things.