Ready for Dessert (33 page)

To make the frozen nougat, in a small saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, heat the honey and the 2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar over medium heat. When the syrup reaches about 200°F (100°C), in a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, start whisking the egg whites and salt at medium-high speed. When the whites form soft peaks and the syrup has climbed to 250°F (121°C), with the mixer running, slowly dribble the syrup into the whites, being careful to avoid pouring syrup on the beater (the beater will fling the syrup onto the sides of the bowl, where it will stick). Continue whisking until the meringue has completely cooled.

In the stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the cream on medium-high speed until it holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the meringue, then fold in the pistachios, orange-flower water, orange zest, crushed praline, and candied orange peel. Transfer to a shallow container and freeze until firm, at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.

SERVING:
Serve scoops of frozen nougat unadorned or sprinkled with additional toasted sliced almonds and drizzled with
Bittersweet Chocolate Sauce
. Other options for accompaniments are sliced ripe pears or
Figs Roasted with Chartreuse and Honey
.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (1 LITER) FROZEN MOUSSE; 8 SERVINGS

When I was going over the recipes to include in this book, next to this one my editor wrote in big letters “BY ALL MEANS.” So I took that as a “yes.”

Because of the caramel, the mousse is slightly soft even when frozen, so it’s best stored in the coldest part of your freezer. But don’t forget about it back there. Once you taste it, I doubt that you will.

FROZEN MOUSSE

¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) plus ¼ cup (60 ml) water

5 large egg yolks

2 tablespoons (30 g) packed dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon salt

¾ cup (180 ml) heavy cream

SALTED ALMONDS

1 tablespoon water

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1 cup (80 g) slivered or sliced almonds

½ teaspoon flaky sea salt

GLAZED PEARS AND SAUCE

4 firm, ripe medium pears (1½ pounds/675 g), such as Bosc, Winter Nellis, or d’Anjou, peeled, quartered, and cored

⅔ cup (160 ml) sherry

¼ cup (60 g) packed dark brown sugar

6 ounces (170 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped

To make the frozen mousse, spread the ¾ cup (150 g) granulated sugar in an even layer in a medium heavy-bottomed skillet or saucepan. Pour ¼ cup (60 ml) water evenly over the sugar to dampen it, but don’t stir. Cook over medium heat, without stirring, until the sugar dissolves, swirling the pan if the sugar clumps or begins to brown unevenly. When the caramel turns dark amber in color and begins to foam a bit, remove the pan from the heat and immediately add the remaining ¼ cup (60 ml) water. The caramel will bubble up vigorously, then the bubbling will subside. Stir with a heatproof utensil until any hardened bits of caramel have completely dissolved.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat together the egg yolks and the 2 tablespoons (30 g) brown sugar on high speed until light and fluffy, about 5 minutes.

With the mixer running on high speed, slowly drizzle the warm caramel in a thin stream into the yolks, being careful to avoid pouring it on the beater (the beater will fling the caramel onto the sides of the bowl, where it will stick). Add the vanilla and ¼ teaspoon salt and continue to beat until the mixture has completely cooled.

In the stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the cream on medium-high speed until it forms soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the caramel-egg yolk mixture. Transfer the mousse to a shallow container, cover, and freeze until firm, at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.

To make the salted almonds, preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat.

In a medium skillet, heat the 1 tablespoon water and 1 tablespoon granulated sugar over medium heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat and mix in the almonds, stirring until well coated. Gently stir in the ½ teaspoon flaky salt. Spread the almonds on the prepared baking sheet and bake, stirring occasionally, until golden brown, 15 to 20 minutes. Let cool completely.

For the pears and chocolate sauce, increase the oven temperature to 400°F (200°C).

In a shallow baking dish, toss the pears with the sherry and ¼ cup (60 g) brown sugar. Cover with aluminum foil and bake until the pears are tender (a sharp paring knife inserted into the center meets no resistance), 30 to 45 minutes.

Pour the hot juices from the pears into a small bowl. Immediately add the chocolate and stir until completely melted and the sauce is smooth.

To serve, cut the pear quarters lengthwise into ½-inch (1.5-cm) slices. Divide the slices among 8 individual serving bowls. Spoon a mound of the frozen caramel mousse over or next to the pears, drizzle with chocolate sauce, and sprinkle with salted almonds.

STORAGE:
The mousse can be frozen for up to 1 month, if well covered. The almonds will keep for 1 week, stored in airtight container at room temperature. Leftover chocolate sauce can be covered and kept in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.

MAKES ABOUT 1 QUART (1 LITER) FROZEN SABAYON; 8 SERVINGS

Sabayon
is the French term for
zabaglione,
the frothy Italian dessert made of egg yolks and wine. It was a great day when I discovered that it could be frozen and scooped like ice cream without being churned in an ice cream maker. Because of the less-than-shy wine flavor, it holds its place in a bowl of fruit soup, especially one made with intensely flavored blood oranges.

FROZEN SABAYON

4 large egg yolks

¾ cup (180 ml) sweet white dessert wine, such as Muscat, Sauternes, or late-harvest Riesling

½ cup (100 g) sugar

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

A few drops of lemon juice

BLOOD ORANGE SOUP

2 cups (500 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

4 teaspoons light rum or orange-flavored liqueur, such as Grand Marnier, Cointreau, or Triple Sec

6 blood oranges, peeled and sliced

2 navel oranges, peeled and sliced

12 to 16 fresh mint leaves

To make the frozen sabayon, in a large heatproof bowl, whisk together the egg yolks, wine, and the ½ cup (100 g) sugar. Set the bowl over a saucepan of simmering water and whisk vigorously and constantly. The mixture will first become frothy, then as you continue to whisk, it will turn thick and creamy. When the mixture holds its shape when you lift the whisk, remove the bowl from the heat. Set the bowl over a larger bowl of ice water and whisk gently for 1 minute. Leave the bowl over the ice water bath.

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the cream on medium speed until it holds soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the sabayon along with the lemon juice. Transfer the mixture to a shallow container, cover, and freeze until firm, at least 8 hours, preferably overnight.

To make the soup, in a small saucepan, warm ½ cup (125 ml) of the orange juice with the ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, stirring until the sugar completely dissolves. Pour into a bowl and add the remaining orange juice and the rum or orange-flavored liqueur. Cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

To serve, divide the blood orange segments among 8 shallow chilled serving bowls and ladle the chilled soup over the orange segments. Chop the mint leaves, scatter them over the bowls, and place a scoop of the frozen sabayon in the center of each.

VARIATION:
Sliced fresh pineapple, sliced kumquats, or any flavorful berries are nice additions to the soup.

MAKES 12 TO 16 SERVINGS

If you’re having a party, this dessert is the most dramatic way I can think of to dazzle the crowd, no matter the setting. I made this towering version of the classic baked Alaska for the birthday of my friend Susan Loomis, who lives in the rural French countryside, and I don’t think the locals ever saw anything like it. Nor have they stopped talking about it, as I learned from subsequent visits. It left quite an impression!

In spite of the fanciful name, baked Alaska is simply made of layers of ice cream or sorbet, a cakelike bed for them to rest on, and billows of meringue to cover it all. The recipes for the sorbets make 1 pint (500 ml) each. The recipe for the toasted coconut ice cream makes about 1 quart (1 liter), so there will be more than enough to fill up the bowl that the baked Alaska is built in.

KIWIFRUIT SORBET

10 ripe kiwifruit (about 2 pounds/1 kg), peeled

½ cup (100 g) sugar

PINEAPPLE SORBET

½ fresh pineapple, peeled, eyes removed, cored, and cubed

¼ cup (50 g) sugar

2 teaspoons freshly squeezed lime juice

1 teaspoon rum

TOASTED COCONUT ICE CREAM

2 cups (500 ml) plus 1 cup (250 ml) half-and-half

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

1 cup (70 g) dried unsweetened shredded coconut, toasted

⅛ teaspoon salt

6 large egg yolks

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

MACAROON LAYER

¼ cup (20 g) sliced or slivered almonds

¼ cup (35 g) all-purpose flour

½ cup (100 g) sugar

⅛ teaspoon salt

2 large egg whites, at room temperature

½ cup (35 g) dried sweetened or unsweetened shredded coconut

3 tablespoons (45 ml) rum

MERINGUE

6 large egg whites, at room temperature

¾ cup (150 g) sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

To make the kiwifruit sorbet, in a food processor fitted with the metal blade or in a blender, purée the kiwifruit with the ½ cup (100 g) sugar until smooth and the sugar has dissolved. Pour into a bowl, cover, and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

To make the pineapple sorbet, in the food processor fitted with the metal blade or in the blender, purée the pineapple pieces with the ¼ cup (50 g) sugar, the lime juice, and 1 teaspoon rum until smooth and the sugar has dissolved. Pour into a separate bowl, cover, and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.

To make the coconut ice cream, in a medium saucepan, warm the 2 cups (500 ml) half-and-half, the ¾ cup (150 g) sugar, 1 cup (70 g) toasted coconut, and ⅛ teaspoon salt, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove from the heat, cover, and let stand for 1 hour.

Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer set over a bowl and squeeze the coconut with your hand to fully extract the flavor. Discard the coconut and return the coconut-infused mixture to the saucepan. Pour the remaining 1 cup (250 ml) half-and-half into a large bowl and set a mesh strainer across the top.

Reheat the coconut-infused mixture until it’s warm. In a separate bowl, whisk the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm coconut-infused mixture, whisking constantly as you pour. Pour the warmed yolks

back into the saucepan. Cook over low heat, stirring constantly and scraping the bottom of the pan with a heatproof spatula, until the custard is thick enough to coat the spatula. Pour the custard through the mesh strainer into the half-and-half, then stir in the ½ teaspoon vanilla.

Set the bowl containing the custard over a larger bowl of ice water. Stir the custard until cool, then cover and refrigerate until thoroughly chilled.