Ready for Dessert (15 page)

Personally, I can’t think of anything more fun than making marshmallows and graham crackers, but if you’d prefer to take a few shortcuts, I’ve offered suggestions in
Variation
.

CRUST

1¼ cups (175 g) whole wheat flour

¾ teaspoon ground cinnamon

½ teaspoon ground ginger

⅛ teaspoon salt

5 tablespoons (2½ ounces/70 g) unsalted butter, cut into ½-inch (1.5-cm) pieces and chilled, plus 3 tablespoons (1½ ounces/45 g) unsalted butter, melted

2½ tablespoons (40 ml) honey

2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar

FILLING

½ cup (125 ml) freshly squeezed lime juice

½ cup (100 g) sugar

Pinch of salt

3 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 g) unsalted butter, cut into pieces

Grated zest of 2 limes, preferably organic

TOPPING

1 envelope (7 g) unflavored gelatin

¼ cup (60 ml) plus ⅓ cup (80 ml) cold water

⅓ cup (80 ml) light corn syrup

½ cup (100 g) sugar

3 large egg whites

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Preheat the oven to 375°F (190°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper or a silicone baking mat. Generously butter a 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate.

To make the crust, in a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), mix together the whole wheat flour, cinnamon, ginger, and ⅛ teaspoon salt on low speed until combined. Add the 5 tablespoons (2½ ounces/70 g) chilled butter pieces and mix on medium speed (or cut them in with a pastry blender) until the butter is in very small pieces about the size of grains of rice. Mix in the honey until the dough is smooth.

Transfer the dough to the prepared baking sheet and pat it into a circle about ⅛ inch (3 mm) thick. Bake until the cracker is golden brown and slightly firm to the touch, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely.

In a food processor fitted with the metal blade, process about three-quarters of the cracker to fine crumbs, or crush in a sturdy plastic bag with a rolling pin. Measure 1½ cups (180 g) crumbs into a small bowl. (You can snack on the rest of the cracker.)

Add the 2 tablespoons (30 g) sugar and 3 tablespoons (1½ ounces/45 g) melted butter to the cracker crumbs in the bowl and mix until evenly moistened. Pat the mixture evenly into the bottom and halfway up the sides of the buttered pie plate. Bake just until set, about 10 minutes. Let cool completely.

To make the filling, in a medium nonreactive saucepan, whisk together the lime juice, ½ cup (100 g) sugar, pinch of salt, eggs, egg yolks, 6 tablespoons (3 ounces/ 85 g) butter, and the lime zest. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture thickens and the
edges just barely begin to bubble. Don’t let it boil. Pour the mixture through a mesh strainer into the crust. Bake until the filling is just set, about 8 minutes.

Remove the pie from the oven. Position a rack in the upper third of the oven and increase the oven temperature to 450°F (230°C).

To make the topping, in a small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin evenly over the ¼ cup (60 ml) cold water and allow it to soften and swell for 5 minutes.

In a small saucepan fitted with a candy thermometer, heat the remaining ⅓ cup (80 ml) water with the corn syrup and ½ cup (100 g) sugar over medium-high heat. When the sugar syrup reaches about 210°F (99°C), in a stand mixer fitter with the whip attachment, start whipping the egg whites. When the egg whites are frothy and the syrup temperature has climbed to 245°F (118°C), increase the speed to high and, with the mixer running, slowly dribble the syrup into the whites, being careful to avoid pouring hot syrup on the beater (the beater will fling the syrup onto the sides of the bowl, where it will stick).

Scrape the softened gelatin into the still-warm saucepan used to make the sugar syrup and stir until melted. With the mixer running, slowly drizzle the gelatin into the egg whites. Add the vanilla and continue to beat until the mixture is cooled to room temperature, 5 to 10 minutes.

Using a spatula, spread the topping over the filling, creating swirls and billowy peaks. Bake until the topping is golden brown, 2 to 4 minutes.

Serve at room temperature or chilled.

STORAGE:
The graham cracker crumbs can be made up to 2 weeks in advance. The lime filling can be made up to 4 days in advance, and chilled.

VARIATION:
You can also use store-bought graham crackers for the crumbs in the crust; you’ll need 1½ cups (180 g) crumbs. If you don’t want to make your own marsh-mallow topping, top this pie with 2 cups of
whipped cream
.

MAKES ONE 9- OR 10-INCH (23- OR 25-CM) PIE; 8 SERVINGS

Growing up in New England, I stayed as far away from pumpkin pie as possible. I did whatever I could to keep my distance from those dubious wedges of orangey-brown filling. For some reason, I just couldn’t bring myself to try it. But when I did, later in my life, I mourned for all those opportunities I missed. (I wouldn’t eat lobster either, which was cheap and plentiful back then. Talk about regrets!)

One thing I don’t regret, though, is trying butternut squash in place of pumpkin in my pie. The cooked squash is naturally sweeter and thicker than pumpkin, and makes for a silkier pie. Note that in this recipe, the filling is added while still warm to the prebaked pie shell. This reduces the baking time for the pie and eliminates the problem of the crust burning while the filling bakes. You can make the filling in advance, but be sure to rewarm it gently before pouring it into the crust.

2 pounds (1 kg) butternut squash (1 medium or 2 small squashes), halved lengthwise, seeds and strings removed

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

½ cup (125 ml) whole milk

4 large eggs

¾ cup (170 g) packed light or dark brown sugar

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

¼ teaspoon ground cloves

¼ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

¼ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg

Pinch of salt

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon Cognac or brandy

Pie dough, prebaked into a 9- or 10-inch single-crust
pie shell

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C). Line a baking sheet with parchment paper and smear the parchment generously with butter.

Place the squash halves cut sides down on the prepared baking sheet. Bake until the squash is fully tender and a sharp paring knife inserted into the thickest part meets no resistance, about 45 minutes. Remove from the oven and decrease the oven temperature to 375°F (190°C).

In a food processor fitted with a metal blade or in a blender, process the cream, milk, eggs, brown sugar, ginger, cinnamon, cloves, pepper, nutmeg, salt, vanilla, and Cognac or brandy until combined. Scoop out the warm squash pulp from the skin, measure out 2 cups (500 ml), and add it to the food processor or blender. Process until the mixture is smooth.

Pour the warm filling into the prebaked pie shell and bake until the filling is just barely set in the center (it should be slightly jiggly), 30 to 35 minutes. Don’t over-bake the pie, as overbaking will cause the filling to crack while cooling.

SERVING:
Some people like this pie warm, but I prefer it cold served with
whipped cream
that’s been spiced or flavored with brandy.

VARIATION:
If you want to substitute canned pumpkin purée, use 2 cups (425 g) or one 15-ounce can. If you wish to use pumpkin that you cook and purée yourself, for the best results, choose a variety like sugar pumpkin that is low in moisture.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE; 8 SERVINGS

If you’re as wild about berries as I am, you’ll find that this pie is the height of luxury and one of the season’s greatest treats. It’s a dessert that I make only in the summer, at the moment when berries are abundant and at their peak. When I lived in San Francisco, I’d drive east across the bay to Monterey Market in Berkeley where flats of berries were so plentiful—and so inexpensive—that I found it impossible
not
to come home with at least a few piled up in my trunk. In addition to turning the berries into jams, compotes, and sorbets, I’d always bake this pie.

A total of 6 cups of berries makes up the filling—use whichever types you prefer. Unless you buy berries by the flat, like I did, most berries are sold in half-pint or pint baskets, so expect to have some leftover fruit, which I know you’ll put to good use. I always did.

Pie dough

2 cups (13 ounces/360 g) hulled and sliced strawberries

2 cups (10 ounces/270 g) blueberries

2 cups (10 ounces/270 g) blackberries

½ cup (100 g) sugar

2 tablespoons (20 g) tapioca flour or cornstarch

1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice or kirsch

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon whole milk or cream

1 tablespoon coarse-crystal or granulated sugar

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

Lightly flour a work surface and roll out one disk of dough into a 14-inch (36-cm) circle. Drape it into a 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate. Trim away the excess dough, leaving a slight overhang.

In a large bowl, gently mix the berries with the ½ cup (100 g) sugar, tapioca flour or cornstarch, and lemon juice or kirsch. Transfer the berry mixture to the dough-lined pie plate and distribute in an even layer.

Roll out the second dough disk into a 14-inch (36-cm) circle. Moisten the exposed edges of the dough in the pie plate with water, then drape the second dough circle over the top. Working all the way around the pie, tuck the upper dough edges under the lower dough edges and crimp to seal.

In a small bowl, whisk together the egg yolk and milk or cream. Brush the top crust generously with the egg wash and sprinkle with the 1 tablespoon coarse-crystal or granulated sugar. Pierce the top crust with a paring knife in 6 places.

Bake until the top crust is browned and the filling juices are thick and bubbling, 50 to 60 minutes. If the crust is browning too quickly, loosely drape a sheet of aluminum foil over the top during baking.

Let the pie cool for about 1 hour before serving.

SERVING:
The pie is lovely with
Vanilla Ice Cream
or
Frozen Sour Cream
.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) PIE; 8 SERVINGS

The first time my parents took me to Disneyland, they probably assumed that they’d be spending the day racing after an energetic tyke who’d try to get on as many rides as possible. Instead of hitting all the main attractions, I discovered the Welch’s grape-colored pavilion and begged my parents to let me spend the day there, chugging inky-purple Concord grape juice. I doubt the pavilion is still there, but it was the start of my lifelong love affair with this native American grape.

You might think seeding the quantity of grapes for this recipe would require a considerable amount of time. But I timed myself, and it took less than 30 minutes. Simply slice each grape in half and pluck out the seeds. If you have kids, you can get them to assist, although don’t hold me responsible if any of them develops a grape addiction as a result.

4 cups (2 pounds/1 kg) Concord grapes, washed, stemmed, halved, and seeded

½ cup (100 g) granulated sugar

3½ tablespoons (30 g) tapioca flour

Pie Dough

1 large egg yolk

1 teaspoon whole milk or cream

2 tablespoons (30 g) coarse-crystal or granulated sugar

Preheat the oven to 400°F (200°C).

In a medium bowl, mix together the grapes, granulated sugar, and tapioca flour. Set aside.

Lightly flour a work surface and roll out one disk of dough into a 14-inch (36-cm) circle. Drape it into a 9-inch (23-cm) pie plate. Trim away the excess dough, leaving a slight overhang and distribute the grape mixture in the dough-lined pie plate.