Ready for Dessert (12 page)

¾ cup (6 ounces/170 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup (200 g) sugar

Grated zest of 2 oranges, preferably organic

3 large eggs, at room temperature

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

GLAZE

½ cup (125 ml) strained fresh passion fruit pulp (from about 6 passion fruits) or thawed frozen purée (see Tip)

⅓ cup (65 g) sugar

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of a 9-inch (23-cm) loaf pan, dust it with flour, and tap out any excess. Line the bottom with a rectangle of parchment paper.

To make the cake, in a small bowl, whisk together the flour, baking powder, and salt. Set aside.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the butter, 1 cup (200 g) sugar, and the orange zest on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes.

In a small bowl, beat together the eggs and vanilla. With the mixer running, slowly dribble the egg mixture into the butter mixture, stopping the mixer and scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed, until the eggs are completely incorporated. (The mixture may look curdled, which is normal.)

Using a rubber spatula, stir the flour mixture into the butter-sugar mixture by hand just until combined. Don’t overmix. Scrape the batter into the prepared loaf pan and smooth the top. Bake until a toothpick inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, about 1 hour. Let cool about 15 minutes.

While the cake is cooling, prepare the glaze. In a small bowl, very gently stir together the passion fruit juice and ⅓ cup (65 g) sugar. Don’t let the sugar dissolve.

Loosen the cake from the loaf pan by running a knife around the sides of the cake. Invert the warm cake out of the pan, peel off the parchment paper, and turn it right side up onto a plate.

Using a wooden skewer, pierce the top of the cake all the way through to the bottom about 50 times. Spoon half of the glaze over the top of the cake. Turn the cake on each of its sides, spooning the rest of the glaze over so that the cake is evenly coated. Sop up the glaze that collects in the plate by rubbing the bottom and sides of the cake in it.

SERVING:
Serve the sliced cake just as it is or with a compote of fresh tropical fruit or berries.

STORAGE:
Store the cake loosely wrapped in plastic wrap, to keep the glaze crisp.

VARIATION:
To make
ORANGE POUND CAKE
, replace the passion fruit juice in the glaze with ½ cup (125 ml) freshly squeezed orange juice.

MAKES ONE 9-INCH (23-CM) CAKE; 12 TO 16 SERVINGS

This is one big, tall, scrumptious dessert: layers of moist banana cake topped with a mocha ganachelike frosting, and crowned with handfuls of salted candied peanuts.

Speaking of tall and scrumptious, I made this cake for a friend who’s a showgirl at the Lido in Paris as a thank you for allowing me a behind-the-scenes visit. She shared it with her colleagues between high kicks on stage and she assured me that even though those women are leggy and lean, their cake-eating capacity knew no limits.

The next morning, I read an email, sent at 3
A.M.,
undoubtedly just after the last curtain call, giving the cake quite a few thumbs up. Or, should I say, a few legs up?

CAKE

2½ cups (350 g) all-purpose flour

1½ teaspoons ground cinnamon

1½ teaspoons baking powder

¾ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 cup (8 ounces/230 g) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1½ cups (300 g) sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon instant espresso or coffee powder

2 large eggs, at room temperature

6 tablespoons (90 ml) buttermilk, yogurt, or sour cream (regular or low-fat), at room temperature

2 cups (500 ml) banana purée (3 to 4 very ripe bananas)

1¼ cups (125 g) pecans or walnuts, toasted and coarsely chopped

CANDIED PEANUTS

1 cup (150 g) raw or unsalted lightly roasted peanuts (see Tip)

½ cup (100 g) sugar

3 tablespoons (45 ml) water

½ teaspoon flaky sea salt

⅛ teaspoon ground cinnamon

FROSTING

10 ounces (280 g) bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, coarsely chopped

½ cup (125 ml) strong brewed coffee or espresso

10 tablespoons (5 ounces/140 g) unsalted or salted butter, cut into pieces, at room temperature

Preheat the oven to 350°F (175°C). Butter the bottom and sides of two 9-inch (23-cm) round cake pans and line the bottoms with circles of parchment paper.

To make the cake, in a medium bowl, whisk together the flour, 1½ teaspoons cinnamon, the baking powder, baking soda, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment (or in a bowl by hand), beat together the 1 cup (8 ounces/ 230 g) butter and 1½ cups (300 g) sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, 3 to 5 minutes. Add the vanilla and instant espresso or coffee powder, then beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing until completely incorporated. Mix in half of the flour mixture, followed by the buttermilk and banana purée. Stir in the remaining flour mixture, then stir in the pecans or walnuts just until combined. Don’t overmix.

Divide the batter evenly among the 2 prepared pans. Bake until golden brown and a toothpick inserted into the center of the cakes comes out clean, about 40 minutes. Remove from the oven and let cool completely.

To prepare the peanuts, in a medium heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat, combine the peanuts, ½ cup (100 g) sugar, and the water. When the sugar begins to liquefy, begin stirring. Continue cooking, stirring frequently, until the sugar crystallizes. Decrease the heat to medium-low and continue to cook, stirring, letting the crystallized sugar on the bottom melt and brown slightly. Then, use a heatproof spatula to scrape up the liquefied sugar and continuously coat the peanuts with it, tilting the pan to help the sugar coat the nuts evenly.

Once the peanuts are a bit glossy and coated with syrup (there will be some sugary crystals on them still, which is normal), sprinkle the sea salt and ⅛ teaspoon cinnamon over them. Stir the peanuts a couple of times, then scrape the candied peanuts onto a baking sheet and let cool completely.

To make the frosting, combine the chocolate and coffee in a medium heatproof bowl set over a pan of simmering water, stirring occasionally until the chocolate is melted and the mixture is smooth. Remove the bowl from the heat and whisk in the 10 tablespoons (5 ounces/ 140 g) butter until combined.

To assemble the cake, run a knife around the sides of the cakes to help them loosen from the pans. Invert one cake onto a serving plate and peel off the parchment. Spread about ¾ cup (180 ml) of the mocha frosting over the surface of the cake. Invert the second cake layer out of its pan, peel off the parchment, and place it over the frosted cake layer. Spread the remaining frosting evenly over the top and sides of the cake.

Coarsely chop 1 cup (100 g) of the candied peanuts and sprinkle them over the top of the cake.

STORAGE:
The cake will keep for up to 3 days, at room temperature. Because of its height, the cake is best stored under a cake dome.

VARIATION:
If you’re serving the cake to kids, you can replace the coffee in the frosting with water or decaffeinated coffee.

MAKES 8 SERVINGS

This is
the
dessert for lemon lovers. It’s light, but supersaturated with lemon flavor.
Semifreddo
usually refers to a dessert that’s partially frozen, but this cake layered with lightened lemon curd was christened “semifreddo” by the Italian American chef at the time at Chez Panisse. I don’t know about you, but I find it pretty hard to win an argument with an Italian, so I let the name stick.

I based this recipe on the lemon semifreddo that one of my colleagues, Linda Zagula, made at the restaurant. It was not only popular with the customers, but with me, too—I couldn’t resist sneaking a mouthful every so often. And from the scraped-clean spoons I’d find hidden in the pastry fridge after all the guests had gone home, I knew I wasn’t the only one.

LEMON CURD

½ cup (125 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

½ cup (100 g) sugar

6 tablespoons (3 ounces/85 g) unsalted or salted butter, cut into pieces

2 large eggs

2 large egg yolks

LEMON SYRUP

¾ cup (180 ml) water

⅓ cup (65 g) sugar

¼ cup (60 ml) freshly squeezed lemon juice

2 tablespoons (30 ml) kirsch (optional)

Sponge cake
, 12 by 18-inch (30 by 46-cm) sheet

1 cup (250 ml) heavy cream

⅔ cup (75 g) crushed amaretti (about 25
cookies
)

To make the lemon curd, in a medium nonreactive saucepan over low heat, combine the ½ cup (125 ml) lemon juice, ½ cup (100 g) sugar, and the butter. Set a mesh strainer over a medium bowl.

In another medium bowl, briefly whisk together the eggs and egg yolks. When the butter has melted, whisk some of the warm liquid from the saucepan into the eggs, whisking constantly as you pour, then stir the egg mixture into the saucepan. Cook, whisking constantly, until the curd starts to thicken and looks slightly jelled. Don’t let the mixture boil.

Pour the lemon curd through the strainer set over the bowl. Cover, let cool, then refrigerate until chilled.

To make the lemon syrup, in a small nonreactive saucepan, warm the water and ⅓ cup (65 g) sugar, stirring until the sugar dissolves. Remove from the heat, then stir in the ¼ cup (60 ml) lemon juice and the kirsch. Let cool completely.

To assemble the semifreddo, remove the parchment paper from the sponge cake and cut out 2 pieces of cake that will each fit in the bottom of a 2-quart (2-liter) baking dish. (You will have extra sponge cake left over that can be frozen for future use.)

In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment (or in a bowl by hand), whisk the cream until it forms soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the chilled lemon curd.

Spread 1 cup (250 ml) of the lemon cream mixture evenly in the bottom of the baking dish. Place one of the cake pieces on top and brush evenly with about ½ cup (125 ml) of the lemon syrup.

Spread 1 cup (250 ml) of the lemon cream evenly on top of the first cake layer and sprinkle with two-thirds of the amaretti crumbs. Lay the second piece of cake on top and brush evenly with the remaining lemon syrup. Spread the remaining lemon cream in an even layer over the top and refrigerate, uncovered, for about 30 minutes to firm up the top layer of lemon cream. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until chilled.