The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (21 page)

Bring 1½ inches of water and a generous pinch of salt to a boil in a large saucepan. Insert steamer basket and add prepared peas. Steam for 2 to 3 minutes or until peas are bright green and just tender. (If you do not have a steamer, simply blanch peas in boiling lightly salted water to cover until bright green and just tender, 1 to 2 minutes.) Drain peas, pat dry, and place in a serving bowl.

Toss peas with sesame oil and toasted sesame seeds, then season to taste with salt. If desired, drizzle a little extra sesame oil over the peas and toss to mix. Serve warm.

A MIXED BAG OF BEANS

Emily Bell, my longtime assistant, helped create this dish, and refers to this recipe as “quick as a
wink” baked beans. The “quick” refers to the speedy assembly achieved by using a mixture of
different canned beans, which are rinsed and drained, then embellished in a matter of minutes
with such robust ingredients as stewed tomatoes, molasses, mustard, brown sugar, sautéed onions,
and bacon. After a little more than an hour in the oven, they are good enough to rival even the best
“from scratch” beans.

SERVES 6

1
15½-ounce can cannellini beans

1
15½ -ounce can navy beans

1
15½-ounce can baby butter beans (see notes)

1
15½-ounce can pinto beans

2
14½-ounce cans stewed tomatoes

⅓
cup unsulfered molasses (see notes)

2
tablespoons light brown sugar

2
tablespoons prepared mustard

1
teaspoon salt

½
teaspoon freshly ground, coarse black pepper

5
thick slices (about 5 ounces) bacon

1
medium onion, thinly sliced

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Pour all the beans into a large colander and rinse under cold running water, then drain well.

Combine in a large bowl. Drain tomatoes in the same colander and then put in a food processor and lightly pulse just to chop tomatoes coarsely. Add to bowl of beans along with molasses, brown sugar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Mix well and set aside.

Cut 3 bacon slices crosswise into 1½-inch pieces and sauté in a medium skillet over medium heat until browned. Drain on paper towels. In the same pan, sauté the onion in the bacon drippings until softened and lightly browned, about 3 minutes. Add onion and cooked bacon to the beans and stir to mix.

Pour beans into a shallow 2-quart baking dish and spread evenly. Cut the remaining 2 bacon slices into 1½-inch pieces and scatter on top of beans.

Bake uncovered 1¼ to 1½ hours, until bacon on top of casserole is crisp and browned. Serve hot.

NOTES:
If you cannot find baby butter beans, regular butter beans can be substituted.

:
Both sulfured and unsulfured molasses are available. The latter is

lighter and has a cleaner flavor.

ROASTED TOMATO SLICES WITH OLIVES

AND HERBS

Although sliced tomatoes, sprinkled with slivered olives, chopped green onions, and fresh herbs,
could easily be served uncooked at room temperature, you might be surprised to learn that this
dish is far more enticing when quickly baked in the oven and offered warm. The heat seems to
intensify the flavors of the tomatoes, which make a fine accompaniment to grilled lamb or steaks.

SERVES 6

3
to
4
tablespoons olive oil

3
large just-ripe tomatoes (about 1½ pounds)

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

⅓
to
½
cup slivered, pitted kalamata olives

⅓
cup chopped green onions including 2 inches of green stems

1
tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

1
tablespoon chopped fresh basil

2
teaspoons red wine vinegar

1
teaspoon minced garlic

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Lightly coat the bottom of a 9-by-13-inch ovenproof baking dish with 2 to 3 tablespoons oil.

Cut tomatoes into ½-inch-thick slices. Arrange slightly overlapping in prepared pan. Salt and pepper slices generously.

In a small bowl, combine olives, onions, parsley, basil, vinegar, garlic, and 1 tablespoon olive oil. Mix well and sprinkle over the tomatoes. (Tomatoes can be prepared 3 hours ahead; cover with plastic wrap and leave at cool room temperature.)

Bake until tomatoes are hot, about 10 minutes. Remove and serve while warm. Do not overcook, or tomatoes will become mushy.

CARAMELIZED ZUCCHINI AND ONIONS

“Less is more” is a cooking concept I embrace, and nowhere is this philosophy more evident than
in Provence, where dishes are simple and unadorned. Redolent of the cooking of this part of
France is the following recipe, which calls for only two ingredients plus olive oil and salt. Onions
and zucchini are slowly sautéed in olive oil until caramelized and fork tender. They would make a
fine accompaniment to Lamb Chops with Crushed Garlic, Rosemary, and Red Pepper Flakes (page

64) or to Fennel and Rosemary–Coated Chicken (page 74).

SERVES 4

1
pound (about 3 medium) yellow onions

2
to
2¼
pounds small zucchini

6
tablespoons olive oil, divided

1
to
1¼
teaspoons fleur de sel or kosher salt

Halve onions lengthwise and slice thinly. Cut zucchini in half lengthwise and cut each half into ½-inch-thick half-moon slices.

Heat 2 tablespoons of the oil in a large, heavy skillet set over medium heat until hot. Add onions and cook, stirring often, until onions are wilted and browned, 8 to 10 minutes. While cooking, the onion slices should stick slightly to the bottom of the pan so that they brown and caramelize. Remove onions with a slotted spoon and set aside while you cook the zucchini.

Add remaining oil to same skillet and place over medium heat. When hot, add zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, for 10 to 12 minutes or until vegetables are tender and well browned, but not mushy. While cooking, the zucchini slices should stick slightly to the bottom of the pan so that they brown and caramelize. Stir the onions back into the pan and heat and stir 1 minute more.

Season vegetables with salt. (Vegetables can be cooked 2 hours ahead. Remove from heat and leave in pan. Reheat, stirring, over medium heat.) To serve, mound in a bowl and serve warm.

ZUCCHINI, POTATOES, AND TOMATOES

GREEK STYLE

A few years ago, I watched and took notes as a Greek friend, Georgos Andrikidis, assembled this
glorious vegetable dish. He sliced zucchini and potatoes; chopped garlic, onions, and tomatoes;
then layered the vegetables in a large baking pan, adding fresh mint and parsley as seasonings.

After pouring a generous amount of olive oil over the mixture, he baked the gratin slowly so that
the flavors of the vegetables melded and their texture became soft and delicate. Crumbled feta and
sliced kalamata olives are typical garnishes for this preparation, but if the vegetables are fresh
from the market, the gratin can stand on its own without embellishments.

SERVES 6

1½
pounds medium zucchini

1½
pounds medium Yukon Gold potatoes

1
to
1½
pounds ripe tomatoes

1
medium-large onion, chopped

3
medium cloves garlic, chopped

1½
to
2
teaspoons tomato paste

1
tablespoon chopped fresh mint

1
tablespoon chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

6
to
8
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

½
cup crumbled feta cheese (optional)

⅓
cup slivered kalamata olives (optional)

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 350 degrees F.

Cut zucchini into ½-inch-thick rounds and place in a large bowl. Peel potatoes and cut into ½-

inch-thick rounds and add to bowl. Quarter tomatoes, and chop coarsely (without seeding); add to bowl. Mix in chopped onion, garlic, tomato paste, and herbs. Season with 1½ teaspoons salt and several grinds black pepper.

Spread vegetables evenly in a 9-by-13-inch (or similar size) ovenproof baking dish and pour olive oil over them. Toss to distribute oil. Bake, uncovered, until potatoes are fork tender and zucchini extremely soft, about 1½ hours. Remove, and when cool enough, taste and season with additional salt and pepper if needed. If desired, sprinkle dish with feta and olives. Serve warm.

CRISPY ZUCCHINI AND CORN CAKES

These crisp golden cakes, made with grated zucchini and fresh corn kernels, can be served the
moment they come out of the frying pan or several hours later, after a quick reheating in a hot
oven. They would make a fine side dish to serve with Barbecued Salmon with a Mahogany Glaze
(page 86)
or with Garlic-Scented Sirloins with Red and Yellow Pepper Relish
(page 25).

SERVES 6; MAKES 12 TO 14 CAKES

2
small (about ½ pound) zucchini

Kosher salt

1
cup fresh corn kernels (2 to 3 ears corn)

1
cup buttermilk

1
large egg

2
teaspoons baking powder

½
teaspoon freshly ground nutmeg

½
teaspoon baking soda

1/8
teaspoon cayenne pepper

1
cup yellow cornmeal

Vegetable oil for sautéing corn cakes

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 200 degrees F.

Grate zucchini coarsely and place in a large sieve or colander. Sprinkle with 1 teaspoon salt.

Let stand for 3 to 4 minutes. Without rinsing, place zucchini in a clean kitchen towel and squeeze to extract as much liquid as possible.

Mix squeezed zucchini in a medium bowl with corn. In a separate large bowl, mix together buttermilk, egg, baking powder, 1 teaspoon salt, nutmeg, baking soda, and cayenne. Stir in cornmeal, then add zucchini and corn.

Add enough oil to coat the bottom of a large, heavy skillet (cast iron works well) or griddle, and place over medium heat. When hot, ladle a scant ¼ cup batter for each cake into pan, leaving space around each for it to spread. Cook until golden on bottom, about 2 to 3 minutes, then turn and cook until other side is golden, 1 to 2 minutes more.

Place cooked cakes on a baking sheet in preheated oven and continue, adding more oil to pan as needed, until all the batter is used. When done, taste a cake and sprinkle with additional salt if desired. (The corn and zucchini cakes can be made 3 hours ahead. Leave on baking sheets at room temperature. At serving time reheat cakes, uncovered, in a preheated 350-degree F oven until hot and crispy, about 10 minutes. Watch carefully.)

Serve cakes slightly overlapping on a serving platter.

NOTE:
The corn cakes can be served garnished with dollops of sour cream and a sprinkling of chives or parsley.

PROVENÇAL SUMMER VEGETABLE TART

This special tart—a three-layer creation composed of a butter-rich pastry crust, a savory goat
cheese filling, and a garnish of sautéed Provençal vegetables—is a true showstopper. It can be
made completely in advance and tastes good served either warm or at room temperature. Make it
the star attraction of a lunch or a light supper, accompanied by a mixed green salad in a
vinaigrette dressing, or offer it as a side dish to grilled lamb or chicken.

SERVES 8 AS A FIRST COURSE OR SIDE DISH; 4 TO 6 AS AN ENTRÉE

TART

Butter-Rich Savory Pie Dough
(page 18)

5
ounces creamy goat cheese

½
cup heavy cream

3
large eggs, lightly beaten

¼
cup sour cream

1/8
teaspoon salt

Generous pinch of cayenne pepper

TOPPING

2
tablespoons olive oil

1
small red bell pepper, cut into ½-inch-thick julienne strips

½
medium fennel bulb, cored and cut lengthwise into ½-inch-thick slices
1
small (5 to 6 ounces) zucchini, halved lengthwise and cut into ½-inch-thick slices
1
small (5 to 6 ounces) yellow squash, halved lengthwise and cut into ½-inch-thick slices
5
grape or small cherry tomatoes, quartered lengthwise

½
teaspoon salt

1
tablespoon chopped fresh basil

TO MAKE THE TART:
Roll dough out on a lightly floured surface into a 12-inch round. Carefully transfer to a 9-inch tart pan with removable bottom. Trim overhanging dough to 1 inch. Fold overhanging dough in and press to form double-thick sides. Pierce bottom of dough with a fork. Wrap tart in plastic wrap and freeze for 30 minutes.

Arrange an oven rack at center position and preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Bake crust until golden brown, piercing with fork if crust bubbles, about 20 minutes. Remove and cool 5 minutes.

Lower oven temperature to 375 degrees F.

In a medium bowl, whisk together cheese, heavy cream, eggs, sour cream, salt, and cayenne.

Pour into shell and bake until filling is set, about 25 minutes. Remove and cool 10 minutes.

TO MAKE THE TOPPING:
While tart is baking, heat oil until hot in a large, heavy skillet over medium heat. Add red bell pepper and fennel and sauté, stirring, until softened, about 4 minutes. Add zucchini and squash and sauté, stirring, 4 minutes more or until all vegetables are tender. Remove from heat and stir in tomatoes. Season generously with salt. Mound vegetables on top of tart and sprinkle with basil. If serving warm, serve within 30 minutes. If serving at room temperature, tart can be prepared 4 hours ahead; leave, uncovered, at cool room temperature.