The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (23 page)

1
small (1-to 1½-pound) green cabbage

3
cups peeled, shredded carrots

2
cups fresh spinach leaves, stemmed and thinly sliced, plus additional spinach leaves for garnish
½
cup plus 1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

¼
cup dark roasted sesame oil

¼
cup sugar

3
tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

2
teaspoons soy sauce

Salt

3
tablespoons sesame seeds, toasted
(see page 15)

Quarter the cabbage lengthwise and remove the tough core. Slice quarters thinly to yield 6 cups.

(Save extra cabbage for another use.) Combine sliced cabbage, carrots, and spinach in a large nonreactive bowl.

In a medium bowl, combine vinegar, sesame oil, sugar, ginger, and soy sauce. Whisk well to blend sugar with liquids. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and toss well to combine. Cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours. (Slaw can be prepared 4 hours ahead; bring to room temperature before serving.) Taste and season with salt if needed.

To serve, line a shallow serving bowl or a platter with spinach leaves. Mound slaw on top and sprinkle with sesame seeds.

Coleslaw is derived from the Dutch
koolsla,
which means cabbage
(kool)
and salad
(sla).

RED AND YELLOW PEPPER COLESLAW IN

LIME DRESSING

A variation on a classic, this slaw is made with thin julienned cabbage and thin strips of red and
yellow bell peppers tossed in a lime and honey dressing. The slaw, which is best when made a few
hours in advance, makes a fine accompaniment to barbecued chicken and is a delicious garnish to
grilled salmon.

SERVES 4 TO 5

3
tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh lime juice, plus extra if needed

1½
teaspoons grated lime zest

3
tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

2
tablespoons honey

1
tablespoon ground cumin

Salt

6
tablespoons olive oil

1
medium (2-pound) green cabbage with attractive outer leaves

1
small red bell pepper

1
small yellow bell pepper

Combine lime juice, lime zest, cilantro, honey, cumin, and ¾ teaspoon salt in a large nonreactive bowl, and whisk well to blend. Whisk in olive oil.

Remove 4 to 5 of the attractive outer leaves from cabbage, rinse, and pat dry. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator until you are ready to garnish slaw.

Quarter the cabbage lengthwise and remove the tough core. Slice quarters thinly to yield 7 cups.

(Save extra cabbage for another use.) Place in a large nonreactive bowl.

Slice bell peppers into strips ¼ inch wide and 2 inches long. Add bell peppers to cabbage.

To assemble slaw, toss cabbage and bell peppers with the dressing. Taste and, if desired, add extra lime juice and salt. Cover and refrigerate at least 2 hours. (Slaw can be made 4 hours ahead; bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

To serve, line a shallow serving bowl with reserved cabbage leaves. Using a slotted spoon, mound slaw on top.

PARMESAN BLACK PEPPER COLESLAW

During a visit to Cape Cod, I ordered Parmesan Black Pepper Coleslaw at a seaside restaurant,
but much to my disappointment, the dish arrived without the faintest hint of cheese and with no
visible specks of pepper. Still, I liked the idea. The mellow taste of Parmesan and spicy black
pepper seemed like such a winning combination that I tried a version myself, adding significant
amounts of Parmigiano-Reggiano and coarsely ground pepper to a creamy mixture of sliced
cabbage and red bell peppers. The slaw turned out to be especially good with barbecued chicken
and with grilled sausages.

SERVES 6 TO 8

1
large (2½-pound) green cabbage with attractive outer leaves

1
large red bell pepper

½
cup white wine vinegar

¼
cup olive oil

3
tablespoons sugar

Coarsely ground black pepper

Salt

1
6-to 8-ounce piece of Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, at room temperature (so that it will be easy to grate)

3
tablespoons regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

3
tablespoons regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) sour cream

Remove 4 to 5 of the attractive outer leaves from cabbage, rinse, and pat dry. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator until you are ready to garnish slaw.

Quarter the cabbage lengthwise and remove the tough core. Slice quarters thinly to yield 12

cups. (Save extra cabbage for another use.) Place in a large nonreactive bowl.

Slice bell pepper lengthwise into thin strips; cut strips in half and add to bowl with cabbage.

In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, oil, sugar, 2¼ teaspoons pepper, and ¾ teaspoon salt.

Pour over cabbage mixture and toss to coat well. Marinate, uncovered at cool room temperature, 30

minutes.

Grate cheese using the coarse side of a hand grater or a food processor to yield 1½ cups. (You will probably have some cheese left over.) Be sure to grate cheese coarsely, not finely, for this recipe. Add to the slaw mixture.

Whisk together the mayonnaise and sour cream; add to the cabbage mixture, and toss well. Cover bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate 2 hours. (Slaw can be made 6 hours ahead; bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

Taste and season with more salt and pepper if needed. Line a shallow serving bowl with the reserved cabbage leaves and mound slaw on top.

CREAMY CARAWAY COLESLAW

All the traditional slaw ingredients–cabbage, vinegar, sugar, mayonnaise, and sour cream–can be
found in this recipe, but it is the hint of crushed caraway seeds that gives the dish its distinctive
taste. Mounded on a bed of cabbage leaves, this slaw makes an attractive side dish to serve with
barbecued ribs or chicken, or with grilled sausages.

SERVES 6 TO 8

1
medium (2-pound) green cabbage with attractive outer leaves

½
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) sour cream

½
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

¼
cup white wine vinegar

2
tablespoons sugar

1
teaspoon salt

1
teaspoon caraway seeds, crushed, plus more if needed
(see page 15)

¼
teaspoon celery seeds, crushed, plus more if needed
(see page 15)

Freshly ground black pepper

6
green onions including 2 inches of green stems, finely chopped

Remove 4 to 5 of the attractive outer leaves from cabbage, rinse, and pat dry. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator until you are ready to garnish slaw.

Quarter the cabbage lengthwise and remove the tough core. Slice quarters thinly to yield about 8

cups. (Save extra cabbage for another use.) Place in a large nonreactive bowl.

In a small nonreactive bowl, stir together sour cream, mayonnaise, vinegar, sugar, salt, caraway seeds, celery seeds, and several grinds of pepper. Pour over cabbage and add chopped green onions; mix well. Cover and refrigerate until well chilled, at least 2 hours. (Slaw can be made 6 hours ahead; bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

Taste slaw, and if you prefer a stronger caraway and celery seed flavor, crush another ½

teaspoon caraway seeds and 1/8 teaspoon celery seeds and stir into the slaw.

To serve, line a shallow serving bowl with reserved cabbage leaves. Mound slaw on top.

CABBAGE, HAM, AND GRUYÈRE SALAD

The Auvergne, a region in the interior of France, is known for hearty dishes, one of which is
Salade Auvergnate.
A combination of sliced cabbage, ham, and Gruyère cheese, tossed in a
vinaigrette dressing along with chopped walnuts and golden raisins, this delicious salad is a study
in contrasts. The cheese and ham lend salty notes and are well paired with the sweetness provided
by the raisins. I purchased this salad (which I think of as French coleslaw) so often during long
stays in France that one day I finally decided to assemble a homemade version in my tiny French
kitchen. This “French slaw” is good offered as a first course or as a garnish to grilled chicken or
lamb chops.

SERVES 6

3
tablespoons red wine vinegar

1
tablespoon Dijon mustard

½
cup plus 1 tablespoon olive oil

1
small (1-to 1½-pound) green cabbage with attractive outer leaves

¾
pound thinly sliced (about 1/8 inch thick) cooked ham

¾
pound thinly sliced (about 1/8 inch thick) Gruyère or Emmenthaler cheese
¾
cup coarsely chopped walnuts

¾
cup golden raisins

Salt

½
cup chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley

Whisk together vinegar and mustard in a large nonreactive bowl. Gradually whisk in oil. Set aside.

Remove 4 to 5 of the attractive outer leaves from cabbage, rinse, and pat dry. Store in a plastic bag in the refrigerator until you are ready to garnish slaw.

Quarter the cabbage lengthwise and remove the tough core. Slice quarters thinly to yield 4 cups.

(Save extra cabbage for another use.) Place in a large nonreactive bowl.

Cut ham into strips about ¼ inch wide and 2 inches long. Cut cheese into strips the same size.

Add ham, cheese, walnuts, and raisins to bowl with cabbage. Pour dressing over cabbage mixture and toss to coat well. Taste and season generously with salt. Refrigerate at least 2 hours to let flavors meld. (Salad can be made 4 hours ahead; bring to room temperature 30 minutes before serving.)

To serve, line a shallow serving bowl or platter with reserved cabbage leaves. Taste salad again and season with more salt if needed. Stir in parsley. Mound salad on cabbage leaves.

GRILLED CAESAR SALAD

For years I overlooked Caesar salad both for family meals and when entertaining. That changed,
however, when I discovered a grilled Caesar salad made with lightly grilled wedges of romaine
lettuce brushed with an anchovy-scented mayonnaise. Cooking teachers Vicki and Steve Caparulo
created this recipe and willingly shared it along with some make-ahead tips.

SERVES 4

DRESSING

3
large cloves garlic

¾
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

6
tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese, preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano, divided
4
canned anchovy fillets rolled with capers

2
tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1
tablespoon fresh lemon juice

1
teaspoon Worcestershire sauce

1
teaspoon Dijon mustard

SALAD

¼
cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra for oiling grill rack

2
medium cloves garlic, minced

¼
teaspoon kosher salt

1
medium (1-to 1¼-pound) head romaine lettuce, about 8 to 9 inches long Freshly ground black pepper

TO MAKE THE DRESSING:
Pulse garlic in the bowl of a food processor or in a blender until minced. Add mayonnaise, 2 tablespoons of the Parmesan cheese, anchovy fillets, olive oil, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, and mustard, and process until smooth. (Dressing can be made 2 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 15 minutes before using.)
TO MAKE THE SALAD:
In a small bowl, whisk together ¼ cup olive oil, garlic, and salt. Set aside for 15 minutes for flavors to develop. Remove and discard any outer bruised leaves from romaine.

Quarter the lettuce lengthwise and set aside.

Oil a grill rack and arrange 4 to 5 inches from heat source. Prepare grill for a hot fire (high temperature). Lightly brush the cut sides (including stalk and leaves) of each lettuce quarter with the garlic-scented oil. Grill lettuce quarters, cut-side down, until lightly browned, about 2 minutes. The leaves should be very slightly charred but still hold their shape.

Arrange lettuce quarters, cut-side up, on 4 dinner plates. Brush some of the dressing over and under the leaves of each quarter, then drizzle each serving decoratively with a little more dressing.

Sprinkle each serving with 1 tablespoon of the remaining Parmesan cheese and season with a generous grating of pepper. Place any extra dressing in a small bowl to pass.

The Caesar Salad was invented in the 1920s by Caesar Cardini, a restaurant owner and
chef in Tijuana, Mexico.

WATERCRESS, CARROT, AND ORANGE

SALAD IN A HONEY DRESSING

Peppery watercress makes a fine partner to sweet carrots and oranges in this salad, all of which
are tossed in a refreshing orange and honey dressing scented with cumin. The salad makes an
excellent accompaniment to grilled lamb or fish.

SERVES 6

3
large navel oranges

4
small (8 to 10 ounces total) carrots

Salt

2
tablespoons honey

2
tablespoons white wine vinegar

2
tablespoons canola oil

¾
teaspoon ground cumin

2
large bunches attractive watercress, stemmed

Grate enough peel from 1 orange to make 2 teaspoons zest and place in a nonreactive salad bowl. Juice orange to yield 2 tablespoons of juice and add to salad bowl. Using a sharp paring knife, cut away skin and all white pith from remaining 2 oranges. Cut between membranes to remove orange segments, and add to salad bowl.

Bring a large saucepan of water to a boil. Cut carrots on the diagonal into thin, ¼-inch-thick slices. Add 1 teaspoon salt and carrots to pot and cook until just tender, about 3 minutes. Drain in a colander and pat dry. Add carrots to salad bowl.