The Big Book of Backyard Cooking (25 page)

SERVES 6

MUSTARD SEED DRESSING

1½
teaspoons mustard seeds

1½
tablespoons cider vinegar

3½
teaspoons fresh lemon juice

Kosher salt

¾
teaspoon Dijon mustard

Freshly ground black pepper

⅓
cup canola oil

SALAD

1
large cucumber

2
small (about 10 ounces each) Belgian endives

2
bunches (about 12 ounces) watercress, stemmed

TO MAKE THE DRESSING:
Heat a small, medium skillet over medium heat until hot, reduce the heat to low, and add mustard seeds. Toast the seeds, shaking the skillet occasionally. The seeds will start to darken to a gray color and pop in 4 to 5 minutes. When they are popping and fragrant, remove skillet from heat and cool seeds completely. Place cooled seeds in a small self-sealing bag and crush them with a rolling pin or a meat pounder until coarsely ground. Set aside.

In a small bowl, whisk together vinegar, lemon juice, 1¼ teaspoons salt, mustard, and several grinds of black pepper. Slowly whisk in oil, then add crushed mustard seeds. (The dressing can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature and whisk well before using.)

TO MAKE THE SALAD:
Peel cucumber, halve it lengthwise, seed it, and slice it thinly; put in a salad bowl. Halve Belgian endives lengthwise, remove the cores, then cut into ¼-inch-julienne strips, and add to the bowl with the cucumbers. Add 3 tablespoons of the dressing and toss to mix. Add watercress and mix well, adding just enough additional dressing to coat the salad lightly. (You may not need to use all of the dressing.) Taste and add more salt and pepper if needed. Mound salad in a serving bowl. Serve immediately.

KATHIE ALEX’S BROCHETTES OF MELON,

PROSCIUTTO, AND FRESH MOZZARELLA

One hot summer day in Provence, my good friend Kathie Alex, a talented teacher who lives and
teaches in the south of France, served me these exquisite brochettes. Wedges of perfectly ripened
melon, ribbons of paper-thin prosciutto, and little balls of fresh mozzarella were skewered and
drizzled lightly with a basil-scented olive oil. The sweetness of the melon, the saltiness of the ham,
and the silky smooth texture of the mozzarella all worked beautifully together. I wasted no time
asking for the recipe, and have served these brochettes many times since. Use them as a salad to
open a meal or offer them as a side dish to grilled fish or chicken.

SERVES 8 AS A FIRST COURSE OR AS A LIGHT SIDE DISH.

1
bunch fresh basil

½
cup extra-virgin olive oil

1
medium clove garlic, peeled

1
small (about 2 pounds) ripe cantaloupe

16
paper-thin slices best-quality prosciutto

8
small balls of fresh mozzarella di buffala or one large (6-to 7-ounce) ball
8
metal or wooden skewers, preferably short rather than long skewers

Pull off 16 large basil leaves; rinse them and pat dry. Rinse and dry remaining basil and reserve for garnish.

Combine olive oil, garlic, and basil leaves in a food processor or blender, and process, pulsing machine several times, until the basil and garlic are finely chopped and blended into the oil. Set aside. (The oil can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and leave at room temperature.) Halve cantaloupe through the stem and scoop out and discard seeds. Cut each half into 4 wedges.

Cut off skin and discard. Cut each wedge in half, crosswise.

Trim and discard any excess fat from prosciutto slices, then cut each slice in half lengthwise.

Drain mozzarella balls or, if you are using a large piece of mozzarella, drain and cut it into eight 1-inch cubes.

To assemble the brochettes, skewer 1 piece of melon. Next, take a strip of prosciutto and gather it together as if you were making a ruffle and skewer it. Next add a mozzarella ball or cube, and follow with another strip of ruffled prosciutto, and another melon wedge. Repeat to make 7 more skewers.

Arrange skewers on a serving platter and drizzle with the basil oil. Garnish the plate with several small bouquets of reserved basil leaves.

CHICKEN SALAD WITH FIGS AND GREEN

BEANS IN BLUE CHEESE DRESSING

Using a purchased roasted chicken from your local grocery makes this an easy dish to prepare.

Cut into chunks, the chicken is tossed in a creamy blue cheese dressing along with blanched green
beans, slivered dried figs, and toasted walnuts. The assertive flavors—the salty cheese paired with
the sweet figs—and the interesting textures—the crunchy nuts, the crisp beans, and tender chicken
—all contribute to make this an out-of-the-ordinary chicken salad. The recipe can be doubled or
tripled easily for large crowds.

SERVES 8

BLUE CHEESE DRESSING

3
ounces Roquefort cheese, crumbled

½
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

¼
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) sour cream

2
tablespoons red wine vinegar

2
teaspoons fresh lemon juice

½
clove garlic, minced

SALAD

Salt

¾
pound green beans, trimmed

12
dried Black Mission figs

1
2½-pound plain roasted chicken (see note)

1
cup toasted walnuts chopped, divided,
(see page 15)

3
green onions including 2 inches of green stems, thinly sliced

Several Boston or red leaf lettuce leaves

TO MAKE THE DRESSING:
Combine cheese and mayonnaise in a mixing bowl, and mash cheese into mayonnaise with a rubber spatula or wooden spoon. Add remaining ingredients and whisk well to combine. Don’t worry if a few lumps of blue cheese remain. (Dressing can be prepared 1 day ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before using.)

TO MAKE THE SALAD:
Bring a pot of salted water to boil, and cook green beans until tender, 6 to 8 minutes. Drain in a colander under cold running water, then pat dry. Cut beans into 1-inch pieces and place in a large bowl.

Place figs in a bowl, cover with hot water, and soak to soften, 8 to 10 minutes. Pat figs dry, remove and discard stems, and cut into slivers. Add to bowl with beans.

Remove and discard skin from chicken. Cut chicken into bite-sized pieces to yield approximately 3 cups. Add to bowl with beans and figs along with ¾ cup of the walnuts and the green onions. (If not serving immediately, cover and refrigerate for up to 2 hours. Bring to room temperature before using.)

To serve, pour blue cheese dressing over chicken and other ingredients and toss to coat well.

Taste and add salt if needed. Arrange a border of lettuce leaves on a serving platter and mound salad in center. Garnish salad with remaining ¼ cup walnuts.

NOTE:
Purchase plain unseasoned chicken; avoid barbecued, Italian, or other strongly flavored birds for this recipe.

Picnic originates from two French words—
piquer
(to pick) and
nique
(a triffle).

EASY CHICKEN SALAD WITH CHUTNEY AND

LIME

As time savers, I use a purchased roasted chicken and opt for the convenience of store-bought mayonnaise and chutney for this chicken salad. The chicken is cubed and combined with chopped red bell peppers, celery, chutney, and cilantro and bound with the mayonnaise. Fresh lime zest and juice add a refreshing note. This quickly made salad is attractive mounded in a shallow bowl lined with lettuce leaves and garnished with lime wedges. It’s also delicious served as a sandwich spread on lightly toasted white bread or as a filling for pita pockets.

SERVES 6

1
cup regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise

½
cup mango chutney

1
3-pound plain roasted chicken
(see note, page 197)

¾
cup coarsely chopped walnuts

½
cup chopped celery

⅓
cup chopped red bell pepper

¼
cup chopped fresh cilantro

3
limes, divided

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1
small head Boston or garden lettuce

Place mayonnaise in a medium nonreactive bowl. Cut any large pieces of mango in the chutney into small dice, add the chutney to the mayonnaise, and stir to mix.

Remove and discard skin from chicken. Cut chicken into ¾-inch cubes to yield 4 cups and add to the mayonnaise mixture. Add walnuts, celery, bell pepper, and cilantro and mix well.

Juice 2 of the limes and add 3 tablespoons of the juice to the chicken salad; stir to mix. Season with salt and pepper to taste. (The chicken salad can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature 15 minutes before serving.)

To serve, arrange a bed of lettuce leaves in a shallow serving bowl or on a platter. Mound with chicken salad. Slice remaining lime into ½-inch wedges and garnish platter with wedges. Serve each portion on a bed of lettuce with a lime wedge.

TURKEY SALAD WITH PEACHES AND SESAME

Chunks of tender roasted turkey breast tossed with juicy grapes, crunchy celery, and green onions
make a tempting combination when tossed in a mayonnaise dressing flavored with peaches and
sesame oil. To save time, I buy turkey breast already roasted at my local grocery store. This salad
is attractive served on a bed of lettuce as a light main course.

SERVES 6

SALAD

1½
pounds roasted turkey breast

2
cups seedless red or green grapes or a combination, halved

1¼
cups finely chopped celery

½
cup chopped green onions including 2 inches of green stems

DRESSING

1
cup plus 2 tablespoons regular or reduced-fat (not nonfat) mayonnaise
4
tablespoons peach preserves

2
tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger

1
tablespoon Asian sesame oil

1½
teaspoons grated lemon zest

1½
teaspoons, plus 2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice, divided

GARNISH

4
ripe peaches

1
small head Boston or red leaf lettuce

2
to
3
tablespoons toasted sesame seeds
(see page 15)

TO MAKE THE SALAD:
Remove and discard skin from turkey. Cut turkey into ¾-inch cubes.

Combine turkey, grapes, celery, and green onions in a large bowl.

TO MAKE THE DRESSING:
Whisk together mayonnaise, peach preserves, ginger, sesame oil, lemon zest, and 1½ teaspoons of the lemon juice. Add to the turkey mixture and mix well. (The salad can be prepared 4 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate.)

When ready to serve, peel peaches and cut into ½-inch wedges. Sprinkle the remaining lemon juice over the peach wedges. Arrange 2 to 3 lettuce leaves on each of 6 dinner plates and mound with salad, arranging the peach wedges on the side. Sprinkle with toasted sesame seeds.

In 17th-century France, a picnic meant a potluck style of meal—almost two hundred
years later the word “picnic” came to signify an outdoor meal.

WILD AND WHITE RICE SALAD WITH

ASPARAGUS AND SMOKED SALMON

Wild and white rice provide a dark and light background for this cooling summer salad laced with
sliced asparagus, chopped fennel, and bits of smoked salmon. A lemon vinaigrette adds a cool,
refreshing note. The salad makes an attractive main course to serve when the weather is
unbearably hot. I like to place it on an outdoor buffet table along with a platter of cheeses, a plate
of sliced tomatoes and cucumbers, and a basket of crusty French bread.

SERVES 4 TO 6

SALAD

4⅓
cups chicken stock, divided, plus extra if needed (see note)

1
cup wild rice

½
cup converted white rice

Salt

¾
pound slim asparagus, tough stems cut off and spears sliced into ½-inch pieces
2
cups chopped fennel (lacy stems discarded and bulbs cored before being chopped)
4
ounces thinly sliced smoked salmon, cut into ½-inch dice

½
cup chopped pecans, toasted
(see page 15)

⅓
cup finely chopped green onions including 2 inches of green stems

3
tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon, plus several sprigs for garnish
DRESSING

¼
cup fresh lemon juice

2
teaspoons grated lemon zest

½
teaspoon Dijon mustard

Salt

Freshly ground black pepper

½
cup olive oil

TO MAKE THE SALAD:
Bring 3 cups of the chicken stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat and add wild rice. Cover pan, lower heat, and simmer until almost all stock is absorbed and rice kernels have cracked, 45 to 55 minutes. Watch carefully, and if stock is absorbed before rice is done, add extra stock. When done, remove from heat and let stand, covered, 10 minutes. Drain rice well.

While wild rice is cooking, prepare white rice and vegetables. Bring remaining 1 ⅓ cups chicken stock to a boil in another medium saucepan and add white rice; cook until tender, about 15

minutes. Drain well and set aside.

Bring 2 quarts lightly salted water to a boil and add asparagus. Cook for 1 minute, then add fennel and continue to cook, about 3 minutes. Remove to a large colander and place under cold running water until vegetables are cool, then drain completely.

In a large nonreactive bowl, gently stir together both rices, asparagus, fennel, salmon, pecans, onions, and chopped tarragon.

TO MAKE THE DRESSING:
Whisk together lemon juice and zest, mustard, ½ teaspoon salt, and ½

teaspoon pepper in a small bowl. Gradually whisk in olive oil. Pour dressing over salad ingredients and toss well. Taste salad and add more salt and pepper if needed. (The salad can be made 2 hours ahead; cover and refrigerate. However, when asparagus sit in the lemon dressing longer than 30